<?xml version="1.0" encoding="utf-8"?>
<rss version="2.0" xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/" xmlns:content="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/content/">
    <channel>
        <title>Best Seen On Foot</title>
        <link>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com</link>
        <description>Travel Blog</description>
        <lastBuildDate>Fri, 05 Dec 2025 21:29:45 GMT</lastBuildDate>
        <docs>https://validator.w3.org/feed/docs/rss2.html</docs>
        <generator>Feed for Node.js</generator>
        <image>
            <title>Best Seen On Foot</title>
            <url>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/assets/logo.jpg</url>
            <link>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com</link>
        </image>
        <copyright>All rights reserved 2025, Best Seen On Foot</copyright>
        <item>
            <title><![CDATA[Lord of the Rings Around Queenstown]]></title>
            <link>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/lord-of-the-rings-around-queenstown</link>
            <guid>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/lord-of-the-rings-around-queenstown</guid>
            <pubDate>Sun, 14 Jun 2020 17:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
            <description><![CDATA[Hey everyone! Lauren here. If you have read any of our other New Zealand posts, you might realize Gerrod and I are both big fans of Lord of the Rings...]]></description>
            <content:encoded><![CDATA[
Hey everyone! Lauren here. If you have read any of our other New Zealand posts, you might realize Gerrod and I are both big fans of Lord of the Rings. We had a blast tracking down some of the [filming locations](https://www.doc.govt.nz/lordoftherings). There are quite a few around Queenstown, so this is a bit of a long post. Also, even if you aren't a fan of the movies, you can appreciate the incredible beauty of New Zealand!!

## Fangorn Forest

We saw two different locations that were used for the Fangorn Forest scenes.

The first location we saw was along [Takaro Road](https://www.google.com/maps/place/45%C2%B021'05.2%22S+167%C2%B054'28.6%22E/@-45.3730526,167.8851227,13z/data=!4m4!3m3!8m2!3d-45.3514444!4d167.9079444?hl=en&entry=ttu&g_ep=EgoyMDI1MDMwNC4wIKXMDSoASAFQAw%3D%3D), and was the location of the scene where Aragorn, Legolas and Gimli meet Gandalf the White. The woods along the road were very thick, but there were several signs posted along the road that said “Private Property”. Gerrod and I didn't want to trespass, or get lost in the thick Fangorn Forest so we just appreciated the woods from the road.

[![Fangorn Forest](/assets/blog/lord-of-the-rings-around-queenstown/IMG_20190217_112741.jpg "Fangorn Forest")](/assets/blog/lord-of-the-rings-around-queenstown/IMG_20190217_112741.jpg)

There are apparently some hikes in the [Snowdon Forest Conservation Area](https://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-recreation/places-to-go/southland/places/snowdon-forest-conservation-area/), but unfortunately we did not have time to do any of them. Honestly, I would skip visiting this filming location unless you have time to do the hikes. It was hard to get to and not much to see.

The second Fangorn Forest filming location is the [edge of the Fangorn forest](https://www.google.com/maps/place/Orc+Mound+LotR+Picture+Stop/@-45.3341594,168.1720544,392m/data=!3m1!1e3!4m6!3m5!1s0xa9d466dcf5108295:0x26777d9c27d9727d!8m2!3d-45.3346354!4d168.1722991!16s%2Fg%2F11c5s21935?hl=en&entry=ttu&g_ep=EgoyMDI1MDMwNC4wIKXMDSoASAFQAw%3D%3D). This is the scene where the Riders of Rohan left the mound of burnt orc bodies and Aragorn, Legolas and Gimli follow Merry and Pippin's trail into the woods. We didn't spend too much time exploring, but you could picture the scene right from Mavora Lakes Road.

[Takaro Road (Fangorn Forest Maybe?)](https://www.youtube.com/embed/6AwxJTALfuM)

## Silverlode and Anduin Rivers

There are several filming locations near [Mavora Lakes Park](https://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-recreation/places-to-go/southland/places/mavora-lakes-conservation-park/). The first location we visited is [Silverlode and Anduin River Junction](https://www.google.com/maps/place/Silverlode+%26+Anduin+River+Junction/@-45.3162186,168.1790371,66m/data=!3m1!1e3!4m5!3m4!1s0xa9d4673c561930b1:0xaaad5af925bede3!8m2!3d-45.3161772!4d168.1790905?hl=en&shorturl=1), which is where The Fellowship left Lothlórien after receiving gifts from Galadriel. To get to this location, we had to drive on gravel roads for about 30 kilometers. We parked in a parking lot near the marked Google Maps location, and headed on a short walk to a swing bridge over the Mararoa River at South Mavora Lake.

As we walked across the swing bridge, we were swept into a peaceful and serene landscape. There were very few people on the trail, and it felt like we were in the middle of nowhere. We walked along a trail further upstream and tried to find the exact place where The Fellowship departed in their boats. It was a little hard to find the exact location of the scene, but we could definitely picture it.

[![Bridge near Silverlode and Anduin River Junction](/assets/blog/lord-of-the-rings-around-queenstown/IMG_20190217_125400.jpg "Bridge near Silverlode and Anduin River Junction")](/assets/blog/lord-of-the-rings-around-queenstown/IMG_20190217_125400.jpg)

[![Silverlode and Anduin River Junction](/assets/blog/lord-of-the-rings-around-queenstown/IMG_20190217_125423.jpg "Silverlode and Anduin River Junction")](/assets/blog/lord-of-the-rings-around-queenstown/IMG_20190217_125423.jpg)

Next, we decided to stroll around South Mavora Lake a bit and enjoy some scenery. Gerrod, funny enough, had his Nintendo Switch in his bag with him. He said you never know when you will need some entertainment.

[![Gerrod playing Nintendo Switch at South Mavora Lake](/assets/blog/lord-of-the-rings-around-queenstown/IMG-20190219-WA0001.jpg "Gerrod playing Nintendo Switch at South Mavora Lake")](/assets/blog/lord-of-the-rings-around-queenstown/IMG-20190219-WA0001.jpg)

[Mavora Lakes (Anduin River)](https://www.youtube.com/embed/sWhJx8ZiVow)

## Nen Hithoel

Next we drove to North Mavora Lake to [Nen Hithoel](https://www.google.com/maps/place/Nen+Hithoel+LOTR+picture+stop/@-45.2668224,168.173967,392m/data=!3m1!1e3!4m6!3m5!1s0xa9d45da11f719abb:0x32a9154c24827e3e!8m2!3d-45.2674766!4d168.1734471!16s%2Fg%2F11bbt4_tz8?entry=ttu&g_ep=EgoyMDI1MDMwNC4wIKXMDSoASAFQAw%3D%3D). This is where the Fellowship docks their boats on the river shore, and then they are attacked by Uruk-Hai. It is a very significant part of the movie because it is where Frodo and Sam leave The Fellowship. Fun Fact: if you watch the Lord of the Rings movie appendices, Sean Astin, the actor that plays Samwise Gamgee, cuts his foot on glass while running into the lake!

[![Nen Hithoel beach](/assets/blog/lord-of-the-rings-around-queenstown/IMG_20190217_140435.jpg "Nen Hithoel beach")](/assets/blog/lord-of-the-rings-around-queenstown/IMG_20190217_140435.jpg)

After walking along the shoreline, we walked up into the [woods nearby](https://www.google.com/maps/place/45%C2%B016'01.4%22S+168%C2%B010'30.0%22E/@-45.2667962,168.1767452,443m/data=!3m1!1e3!4m5!3m4!1s0x0:0x0!8m2!3d-45.2670667!4d168.175?hl=en&shorturl=1). This is where the Boromir dies trying to save Merry and Pippin. Both the shoreline and woods looked just like the movie scenes!

[![Woods near Nen Hithoel (Mavora Lake)](/assets/blog/lord-of-the-rings-around-queenstown/IMG_20190217_141623.jpg "Woods near Nen Hithoel (Mavora Lake)")](/assets/blog/lord-of-the-rings-around-queenstown/IMG_20190217_141623.jpg)

[![More woods near Nen Hithoel](/assets/blog/lord-of-the-rings-around-queenstown/IMG_20190217_142115.jpg "More woods near Nen Hithoel")](/assets/blog/lord-of-the-rings-around-queenstown/IMG_20190217_142115.jpg)

While poking around in the woods, we came across some really cool blue-green cup mushrooms that stained a log blue! I later identified it to be a [Chlorociboria species](https://virtualmycota.landcareresearch.co.nz/webforms/vM_Species.aspx?pk=1590). Very cool!

[![Chlorociboria mushrooms near Nen Hithoel](/assets/blog/lord-of-the-rings-around-queenstown/IMG_20190217_142437.jpg "Chlorociboria mushrooms near ")](/assets/blog/lord-of-the-rings-around-queenstown/IMG_20190217_142437.jpg)

[![View from woods to Nen Hithoel Beach](/assets/blog/lord-of-the-rings-around-queenstown/IMG_20190217_143113.jpg "View from woods to Nen Hithoel Beach")](/assets/blog/lord-of-the-rings-around-queenstown/IMG_20190217_143113.jpg)

Next, we then ate lunch at nearby picnic tables and enjoyed the incredible scenery.

[![Devil's Staircase](/assets/blog/lord-of-the-rings-around-queenstown/IMG_20190217_163032.jpg "Devil's Staircase")](/assets/blog/lord-of-the-rings-around-queenstown/IMG_20190217_163032.jpg)

[Devil's Staircase](https://www.youtube.com/embed/TkTZOsCQ-Fo)

## Dimrill Dale

The next day, we visited [Dimrill Dale](<https://www.google.co.nz/maps/place/Dimrill+Dale+(LotR)/@-45.063326,168.8103485,17.5z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0xa9d4df9261d046c9:0x6f18a9ac6fc6060d!8m2!3d-45.0636667!4d168.811039?shorturl=1>). This location is where the Fellowship exits the Mines of Moria after Gandalf falls to the shadows. Dimrill Dale can be found just outside of Queenstown along the [Lake Alta Track](https://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-recreation/places-to-go/otago/places/remarkables-conservation-area/things-to-do/lake-alta-track/). The short hike starts at The Remarkables ski area, and winds through alpine wetlands to Lake Alta. The trail wasn't very maintained, but we enjoyed hopping from rock to rock on our way up the mountain. There were a few signs along the trail with information about the Alpine landscape near the lake, and tons of wildflowers along the trail.

[![Dimrill Dale (Lake Alta)](/assets/blog/lord-of-the-rings-around-queenstown/IMG_20190218_132239.jpg "Dimrill Dale (Lake Alta)")](/assets/blog/lord-of-the-rings-around-queenstown/IMG_20190218_132239.jpg)

The scenery at Lake Alta was gorgeous. We took some pictures and tried to relax and enjoy the view while eating snacks. However, it was very windy and cold so we didn't hang out for too long.

[![A different view of Dimrill Dale](/assets/blog/lord-of-the-rings-around-queenstown/IMG_20190218_132242.jpg "A different view of Dimrill Dale")](/assets/blog/lord-of-the-rings-around-queenstown/IMG_20190218_132242.jpg)

On our drive back to Queenstown, we stopped to take bird's eye view pictures of the town. Queenstown looked so small nestled between the surrounding mountains!

[![Looking down on Queenstown from The Remarkables](/assets/blog/lord-of-the-rings-around-queenstown/IMG_20190218_145045.jpg "Looking down on Queenstown from The Remarkables")](/assets/blog/lord-of-the-rings-around-queenstown/IMG_20190218_145045.jpg)

[The Remarkables and Lake Alta](https://www.youtube.com/embed/x8Z_QfEHhGU)

## Ithilien Camp

Only a 15 minutes drive from downtown Queenstown, we found the [Ithilien Camp](<https://www.google.com/maps/place/Ithilien+Lookout+(Lord+of+the+Rings)/@-45.0700237,168.541158,315m/data=!3m1!1e3!4m5!3m4!1s0xa9d4fc579215e48d:0x982a6144f7293b8!8m2!3d-45.0706371!4d168.5417848?hl=en&shorturl=1>) filming location. This is where Frodo, Sam and Gollum watch the battle between Faramir's Rangers of Gondor and the men/Oliphaunts of Harad. The Ithilien Camp is along the [Twelve Mile Delta to Bob's Cove Track](https://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-recreation/places-to-go/otago/places/queenstown-area/things-to-do/twelve-mile-delta-to-bobs-cove-track/), which is a great little hike even if you aren't interested in Lord of the Rings.

We got a little turned around finding the start of the trail, but soon we were on our way! The GoogleMaps location for the camp was a little off, but after looking around we found the right spot. This was one of the most obvious filming locations we found. It looked just like the movie! We crouched down and pretended to see some Oliphaunts before continuing our hike.

[![Ithilien Camp](/assets/blog/lord-of-the-rings-around-queenstown/IMG_20190219_114021.jpg "Ithilien Camp")](/assets/blog/lord-of-the-rings-around-queenstown/IMG_20190219_114021.jpg)

The trail was fairly easy, and the walk through the “New Zealand bush” was peaceful. The end of the trail was uphill to a viewing area where you could see both Bob's Cove and the lake. We ate our lunch and enjoyed the view before heading back to our car.

[![Lauren enjoying the view from Bob's Cove Track](/assets/blog/lord-of-the-rings-around-queenstown/IMG_20190219_130832.jpg "Lauren enjoying the view from Bob's Cove Track")](/assets/blog/lord-of-the-rings-around-queenstown/IMG_20190219_130832.jpg)

[![Lauren and Gerrod at Bob's Cove Track](/assets/blog/lord-of-the-rings-around-queenstown/IMG_20190219_131209.jpg "Lauren and Gerrod at Bob's Cove Track")](/assets/blog/lord-of-the-rings-around-queenstown/IMG_20190219_131209.jpg)

[Bob's Cove and Ithilien Camp](https://www.youtube.com/embed/uaLCEB_MbKc)

## Isengard

The filming location of [Isengard](https://www.google.com/maps/place/44%C2%B040'25.0%22S+168%C2%B020'27.4%22E/@-44.7155717,168.2320862,25338m/data=!3m1!1e3!4m4!3m3!8m2!3d-44.6736111!4d168.3409444?hl=en&entry=ttu&g_ep=EgoyMDI1MDMwNC4wIKXMDSoASAFQAw%3D%3D) is located about an hour northwest of Queenstown, and was not the easiest place to get. It was a very scenic drive but we made a few wrong turns along the way.

On our drive, we drove past a lake called Diamond Lake just south of Paradise Valley. The area north of the lake was used as the filming location for [Beorn's House](https://www.google.com/maps/place/44%C2%B043'54.5%22S+168%C2%B022'54.9%22E/@-44.7318056,168.3819167,792m/data=!3m2!1e3!4b1!4m4!3m3!8m2!3d-44.7318056!4d168.3819167?entry=ttu&g_ep=EgoyMDI1MDMwNC4wIKXMDSoASAFQAw%3D%3D) in The Hobbit: The Desolation of Smaug. Gerrod and I snapped some pictures near the lake and at a sign marking Paradise Valley. The valley was stunning, with lush green grass surrounded by snow capped mountains. The valley was used for several locations in The Hobbit movies.

[![Diamond Lake (Beorn's House)](/assets/blog/lord-of-the-rings-around-queenstown/IMG_20190220_114725.jpg "Diamond Lake (Beorn's House)")](/assets/blog/lord-of-the-rings-around-queenstown/IMG_20190220_114725.jpg)

[![Lauren at the sign to Paradise Valley](/assets/blog/lord-of-the-rings-around-queenstown/IMG_20190220_115849.jpg "Lauren at the sign to Paradise Valley")](/assets/blog/lord-of-the-rings-around-queenstown/IMG_20190220_115849.jpg)

[![Gerrod at the sign to Paradise Valley](/assets/blog/lord-of-the-rings-around-queenstown/IMG_20190220_115900.jpg "Gerrod at the sign to Paradise Valley")](/assets/blog/lord-of-the-rings-around-queenstown/IMG_20190220_115900.jpg)

As we continued our drive past Diamond Lake, we ran into a few small stream crossings. We made it across a few, but as we got closer to the filming location we ran into a very deep crossing. We pulled off to the side of the road, and got out to assess if we could make the crossing. As we were checking it out, we saw a few vehicles make it across. We were tempted to go for it, but then noticed some car bumper wreckage in the creek. We were only ~2.5 km from the location, so we decided to just leave our car and walk.

There weren't many cars on the road, so the walk was quite enjoyable. When we got to Isengard, we snapped some pictures and envisioned Gandalf riding to Saruman for council. The trees in the valley were so interesting and made such a serene setting. I'm sure glad the Uruk-hai didn't actually destroy the forest!

[![Isengard](/assets/blog/lord-of-the-rings-around-queenstown/IMG_20190220_130809.jpg "Isengard")](/assets/blog/lord-of-the-rings-around-queenstown/IMG_20190220_130809.jpg)

[![Gerrod and Lauren at Isengard](/assets/blog/lord-of-the-rings-around-queenstown/IMG_20190220_131128.jpg "Gerrod and Lauren at Isengard")](/assets/blog/lord-of-the-rings-around-queenstown/IMG_20190220_131128.jpg)

[Glenorchy and Paradise Valley](https://www.youtube.com/embed/Tf5N7-KGUbs)

## The Argonath on the Anduin River

While driving around Queenstown, we made a quick stop at [The Argonath on the Anduin River](https://www.google.com/maps/place/45%C2%B000'42.7%22S+168%C2%B053'34.0%22E/@-45.0112442,168.8927371,788m/data=!3m1!1e3!4m4!3m3!8m2!3d-45.0118611!4d168.8927778?hl=en&entry=ttu&g_ep=EgoyMDI1MDMwNC4wIKXMDSoASAFQAw%3D%3D). This location is also called the Gates of Argonath or The Pillars of Kings which is from the Fellowship of the Ring movie. The river was right off of the road, and had very steep cliffs. If only the king statues were real!! We also decided to stop at the Chard Farm Vineyard nearby for a wine tasting. Beautiful views and wine are a great combination.

[![Location of The Argonath on the Anduin River](/assets/blog/lord-of-the-rings-around-queenstown/IMG_20190221_110521.jpg "Location of The Argonath on the Anduin River")](/assets/blog/lord-of-the-rings-around-queenstown/IMG_20190221_110521.jpg)

[![Another potential location for The Argonath on the Anduin River](/assets/blog/lord-of-the-rings-around-queenstown/IMG_20190221_110524.jpg "Another potential location for The Argonath on the Anduin River")](/assets/blog/lord-of-the-rings-around-queenstown/IMG_20190221_110524.jpg)

[![Yet another potential location for The Argonath on the Anduin River](/assets/blog/lord-of-the-rings-around-queenstown/IMG_20190221_110609.jpg "Yet another potential location for The Argonath on the Anduin River")](/assets/blog/lord-of-the-rings-around-queenstown/IMG_20190221_110609.jpg)

[Kawarau Gorge (Anduin River)](https://www.youtube.com/embed/wjPbfOQBDdo)

Until next time!

Lauren (and Gerrod)
]]></content:encoded>
            <author>bestseenonfoot@gmail.com (Lauren Schirtzinger)</author>
        </item>
        <item>
            <title><![CDATA[Exploring Milford Sound]]></title>
            <link>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/exploring-milford-sound</link>
            <guid>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/exploring-milford-sound</guid>
            <pubDate>Sat, 30 May 2020 17:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
            <description><![CDATA[Hey everyone! Lauren here to tell you about our experience at the beautiful and famous Milford Sound...]]></description>
            <content:encoded><![CDATA[
Hey everyone! Lauren here to tell you about our experience at the beautiful and famous Milford Sound!

Milford Sound is the most popular fiord in New Zealand, and it is not particularly close to any towns. There is one road in and out of Milford Sound, and so in preparation for the journey, we made our way to a small town called Lumsden. Lumsden is TINY, and it is still a 2.5-3 hour drive from Milford Sound.

Typically, the closest and most developed place to stay before heading to the sound is a town called [Te Anau](https://www.fiordland.org.nz/visit/te-anau/). However, we had trouble finding affordable accommodation in Te Anau, likely since we waited until the last minute to book anything. Luckily, we found something in Lumsden.

## The drive from Lumsden to Milford Sound

We had a very slow start to our morning, and didn't end up leaving for Milford Sound until nearly 9:30 AM. Since we had such a late start, we decided to skip all of the viewpoints and points of interest along the Milford Highway on our drive to the sound. There were several tour buses stopped at various points of the highway, and we were hoping there would be less people on our way back!

The drive had gorgeous views the entire way. There were lakes, mountains, and beautiful grassy plains in the valleys. After a few hours of driving, we came to the Homer Tunnel.

[![Waiting in traffic and admiring mountains on the way to Milford Sound](/assets/blog/exploring-milford-sound/IMG_20190216_112851.jpg "Waiting in traffic and admiring mountains on the way to Milford Sound")](/assets/blog/exploring-milford-sound/IMG_20190216_112851.jpg)

[![Waiting in traffic on the way to Milford Sound](/assets/blog/exploring-milford-sound/IMG_20190216_112901.jpg "Waiting in traffic on the way to Milford Sound")](/assets/blog/exploring-milford-sound/IMG_20190216_112901.jpg)

The Homer Tunnel is an incredible 1.2 km (0.75 miles) long road tunnel that pierces through the Darran Mountain range, and is only one lane. This means that there is a stop signal on either side of the tunnel that only allows people to pass from one side at a time in intervals of 20 minutes. The line when we approached the tunnel didn't seem too long. There was a counter sign that showed how much time we had to wait. Since we had some time, we decided to get out of our car and take some pictures of the scenery.

[Driving To Milford Sound](https://www.youtube.com/embed/0onCWxVPwa0)

## Cruise Booking and Poking around

When we arrived we went to Milford Sound, we parked our car and headed into the information center to book a fjord cruise. We ended up booking the [Southern Discoveries Encounter Nature Cruise](https://www.southerndiscoveries.co.nz/milford-sound/cruises/nature-cruise/), which is the longest cruise available. The price for both of us was $150 NZD.

[![Boardwalk near Milford Sound](/assets/blog/exploring-milford-sound/IMG_20190216_122100.jpg "Boardwalk near Milford Sound")](/assets/blog/exploring-milford-sound/IMG_20190216_122100.jpg)

[![View of the ferry at Milford Sound near a waterfall](/assets/blog/exploring-milford-sound/IMG_20190216_123506.jpg "View of the ferry at Milford Sound near a waterfall")](/assets/blog/exploring-milford-sound/IMG_20190216_123506.jpg)

We had some time before our cruise left, so we walked on some of the trails near the information center, which sits on the southern end of Milford Sound. The view was incredible, and there were several moss covered trees. The way the light peaked through the greenery of the trees was simply mesmerizing.

[![Looking out at Milford Sound](/assets/blog/exploring-milford-sound/IMG_20190216_123509.jpg "Looking out at Milford Sound")](/assets/blog/exploring-milford-sound/IMG_20190216_123509.jpg)

[![Gerrod and Lauren on the shores of Milford Sound](/assets/blog/exploring-milford-sound/IMG_20190216_123719.jpg "Gerrod and Lauren on the shores of Milford Sound")](/assets/blog/exploring-milford-sound/IMG_20190216_123719.jpg)

[![Seeing the Milford Sound from a higher viewpoint](/assets/blog/exploring-milford-sound/IMG_20190216_125928.jpg "Seeing the Milford Sound from a higher viewpoint")](/assets/blog/exploring-milford-sound/IMG_20190216_125928.jpg)

[Hiking At Milford Sound](https://www.youtube.com/embed/GDk7TjjxnJg)

## The Cruise

After walking the trails, we headed to the cruise launch point. After checking in for our cruise, we ate our packed lunches at some picnic tables near the boat dock. Our cruise boarded 10 minutes before departure, and soon we were cruising the ocean beneath the cascading peaks of Milford Sound!

The guide gave us some information about the discovery of Milford Sound and wildlife often observed in the fiord. On our cruise, we saw New Zealand fur seals, bottlenose dolphins, and tons of birds!

[![Fur seals at Milford Sound](/assets/blog/exploring-milford-sound/IMG_20190216_153015.jpg "Fur seals at Milford Sound")](/assets/blog/exploring-milford-sound/IMG_20190216_153015.jpg)

Our guide said on rainy days, Milford Sound has even more waterfalls cascading down the cliffs. Despite having beautiful clear skies, we still saw numerous waterfalls across the fiord. I can't imagine what it looked like on a rainy day!

[![Waterfalls further in Milford Sound](/assets/blog/exploring-milford-sound/IMG_20190216_153209.jpg "Waterfalls further in Milford Sound")](/assets/blog/exploring-milford-sound/IMG_20190216_153209.jpg)

Our boat even rode into one of the waterfalls. We had the option to go inside and stay dry, or get soaked in the waterfall. We opted to drench ourselves in the water. It was pretty chilly, but how often do you get the opportunity to shower in a Milford Sound waterfall?

[![Riding the ferry at Milford Sound](/assets/blog/exploring-milford-sound/IMG_20190216_163323.jpg "Riding the ferry at Milford Sound")](/assets/blog/exploring-milford-sound/IMG_20190216_163323.jpg)

Since it was an Encounter Nature cruise, our guide went into detail on the unique subsurface habitat in the sound. Since Milford Sound receives high rainfall, and saltwater has a higher density than freshwater, the surface of Milford Sound has a layer of freshwater sitting on top of the salty ocean water. This freshwater layer contains tannins leached from the vegetation in the surrounding rainforest, which make this freshwater darker in color. These dark tannins filter out a lot of the sunlight entering the water, which creates the perfect conditions for a variety of black coral to flourish at depths of as shallow as 10 metres. Black corals are typically found much deeper in the water column. significantly closer to the surface than usual. Neat!!

[Milford Sound Ferry Tour](https://www.youtube.com/embed/CxTBzNAUNL0)

## The Drive Back to Lumsden: Stopping at the Sights

When we got back we headed to the car and back to our hotel/Airbnb in Lumsden. Since we skipped all of the sights along the Milford Highway on our drive to the fiord, we decided to stop at them on the way back. We had picked up a pamphlet at the information center at Milford Sound, and used it as a reference guide to know what places to stop on our drive.

### The Chasm

First we stopped at [The Chasm](https://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-recreation/places-to-go/fiordland/places/fiordland-national-park/things-to-do/tracks/the-chasm-walk/) which was a river that eroded an area into a deep chasm. The walk was super short, and went over a bridge to look up the river, and down into the water eroded plunge pool.

[![The Chasm near Milford Sound](/assets/blog/exploring-milford-sound/IMG_20190216_173004.jpg "The Chasm near Milford Sound")](/assets/blog/exploring-milford-sound/IMG_20190216_173004.jpg)

[![Our shadows at the Chasm near Milford Sound](/assets/blog/exploring-milford-sound/IMG_20190216_173153.jpg "Our shadows at the Chasm near Milford Sound")](/assets/blog/exploring-milford-sound/IMG_20190216_173153.jpg)

[![Cool rock formations at the Chasm near Milford Sound](/assets/blog/exploring-milford-sound/IMG_20190216_173207.jpg "Cool rock formations at the Chasm near Milford Sound")](/assets/blog/exploring-milford-sound/IMG_20190216_173207.jpg)

### Monkey Creek

Next we stopped at [Monkey Creek](https://www.milford-sound.co.nz/travel-info/milford-road-highlights/monkey-creek/). The creek was right off the road, and sat in a valley. Monkey Creek frequently has really high water quality, and can be drunk right from the stream! There are also frequent sightings of the rare whio (blue duck) and Kea (the endangered alpine parrot).

[![Monkey Creek near Milford Sound](/assets/blog/exploring-milford-sound/IMG_20190216_175744.jpg "Monkey Creek near Milford Sound")](/assets/blog/exploring-milford-sound/IMG_20190216_175744.jpg)

We didn't see any kea or blue ducks. We also didn't drink water from the stream because the sun was starting to dip below the mountains and we wanted to see some of the other sights before then.

[![Mountains at Monkey Creek near Milford Sound](/assets/blog/exploring-milford-sound/IMG_20190216_175747.jpg "Mountains at Monkey Creek near Milford Sound")](/assets/blog/exploring-milford-sound/IMG_20190216_175747.jpg)

### Pop's View

Next we stopped at [Pop's View](https://www.google.com/maps/place/Pop's+View+Lookout/@-44.8086509,168.107401,15z/data=!4m6!3m5!1s0xa9d5c792c5400ecd:0xd42ba8650a8bb6c7!8m2!3d-44.8086509!4d168.107401!16s%2Fg%2F1hm1r7nrl?entry=ttu&g_ep=EgoyMDI1MDMwNC4wIKXMDSoASAFQAw%3D%3D), which was right off of the road. The mountains here were covered in trees, which contrasted many of the surrounding rocky peaks.

[![Pop's view near Milford Sound](/assets/blog/exploring-milford-sound/IMG_20190216_180928.jpg "Pop's view near Milford Sound")](/assets/blog/exploring-milford-sound/IMG_20190216_180928.jpg)

[![Another look at Pop's view near Milford Sound](/assets/blog/exploring-milford-sound/IMG_20190216_180932.jpg "Another look at Pop's view near Milford Sound")](/assets/blog/exploring-milford-sound/IMG_20190216_180932.jpg)

### Mirror Lakes

After that was [Mirror Lakes](https://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-recreation/places-to-go/fiordland/places/fiordland-national-park/things-to-do/tracks/mirror-lakes-walk/), which are known to reflect the surrounding scenery when the water is calm. The walk to Mirror Lakes was very short and paved. At the end of the path were small platforms above the water, which had perfect reflections of the mountains above. Ducks were swimming in the water, and would occasionally disrupt the reflection of the mountains. We spent quite a bit of time here taking photos and admiring the way the ducks were changing the reflection of the mountains.

[![Mirror Lakes near Milford Sound](/assets/blog/exploring-milford-sound/IMG_20190216_183703.jpg "Mirror Lakes near Milford Sound")](/assets/blog/exploring-milford-sound/IMG_20190216_183703.jpg)

[![Another look at Mirror Lakes near Milford Sound](/assets/blog/exploring-milford-sound/IMG_20190216_183708.jpg "Another look at Mirror Lakes near Milford Sound")](/assets/blog/exploring-milford-sound/IMG_20190216_183708.jpg)

[![Yet Another view of Mirror Lakes near Milford Sound](/assets/blog/exploring-milford-sound/IMG_20190216_184303.jpg "Yet Another view of Mirror Lakes near Milford Sound")](/assets/blog/exploring-milford-sound/IMG_20190216_184303.jpg)

### Eglinton Valley

The last sight we stopped at along Milford Highway was [Eglinton Valley](https://www.milford-sound.co.nz/travel-info/milford-road-highlights/eglinton-valley/). The sun was starting to settle below the mountains, so we snapped some pictures and then watched the sun drop below the peaks. The color of the tall grass in the plains below the valley seemed to change colors completely, shifting from a warm yellow to a cooler tone.

[![Eglinton Valley near Milford Sound a.k.a Misty Mountains](/assets/blog/exploring-milford-sound/IMG_20190216_185139.jpg "Eglinton Valley near Milford Sound a.k.a Misty Mountains")](/assets/blog/exploring-milford-sound/IMG_20190216_185139.jpg)

Here's a fun fact about Eglinton Valley since Gerrod and I are both big Lord of the Rings fans: Several areas in the Eglinton Valley were locations in the Lord of the Rings movies, and the Eglinton Mountains surrounding the valley represented the Misty Mountains in the Fellowship of the Ring!

## Dinner time

After taking photos in Eglinton Valley, we headed to Te Anau to get some dinner. We went to a local cafe/pizzeria and enjoyed some pizza and garlic bread before continuing back to our accommodations in Lumsden, where we reminisced on the beauty we just encountered at Milford sound!

[Leaving Milford Sound](https://www.youtube.com/embed/mGKhfNzoAmw)

Until next time!

Lauren (and Gerrod)
]]></content:encoded>
            <author>bestseenonfoot@gmail.com (Lauren Schirtzinger)</author>
        </item>
        <item>
            <title><![CDATA[Central Otago Wineries!]]></title>
            <link>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/central-otago-wineries</link>
            <guid>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/central-otago-wineries</guid>
            <pubDate>Thu, 28 May 2020 17:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
            <description><![CDATA[Hey everyone! Lauren here to tell you about our visit to six wineries in the Central Otago Wine Region...]]></description>
            <content:encoded><![CDATA[
Hey everyone! Lauren here to tell you about our visit to six wineries in the Central Otago Wine Region!

I should preface this post with: I am no way a sommelier.I realize all I am saying about the different wines is “the wine was delicious”. All of the wine was delicious, and all of the wineries had a great atmosphere!

## The Central Otago Wine Region

There are 11 wine regions across New Zealand. Marlborough, known for excellent sauvignon blanc, is by far the most popular and famous wine region in New Zealand. Hawke's Bay (link to article), is the 2nd largest region in New Zealand, and has a wide variety of styles and flavors.

The [Central Otago](https://www.nzwine.com/en/regions/centralotago/) is New Zealand's most scenic wine region, and is known for incredible views and excellent Pinot Noir. Fun fact: Central Otago is the world's southernmost wine producing region!

## Birthday Winery Celebration

On Lauren's (my) birthday, we went to three wineries: Rippon, Archangel, and Mt. Difficulty

### Rippon Winery Tasting

The first winery we went to on my birthday was [Rippon](https://rippon.co.nz/). Rippon is right outside of Wanaka, and has beautiful views of the vineyards right along Lake Wanaka. The tasting was free, but they were asking for donations to support wildlife in the Otago region in lieu of a fee. We decided to donate $10 NZD to support local wildlife.

[![Rippon Winery View](/assets/blog/central-otago-wineries/IMG_20190214_114947-PANO.jpg "Rippon Winery View")](/assets/blog/central-otago-wineries/IMG_20190214_114947-PANO.jpg)

[![Rippon Winery](/assets/blog/central-otago-wineries/IMG_20190214_114947.jpg "Rippon Winery")](/assets/blog/central-otago-wineries/IMG_20190214_114947.jpg)

We tasted a few varieties of pinot noir and some riesling, and they were all delicious. The pinot noir was especially good but I may be biased because pinot noir is one of my favorite types of wine.

### Archangel Winery Tasting

After our tasting at Rippon, we stopped at a winery called [Archangel](https://www.archangelwines.co.nz/) on our way to a lunch reservation at Mt. Difficulty Winery. The tasting was $15 NZD, and the wine was delicious. I guess the problem with doing posts retroactively is things change. It seems that the winery has been purchased by [Nanny Goat Vineyard](https://www.nannygoatvineyard.co.nz/). I am sure the new wine is also wonderful, since it will have the same incredible scenery and the same delicious grapes.

[![Archangel Winery](/assets/blog/central-otago-wineries/IMG_20190214_130000.jpg "Archangel Winery")](/assets/blog/central-otago-wineries/IMG_20190214_130000.jpg)

### Mt. Difficulty Winery

Next we drove to [Mt. Difficulty](https://www.mtdifficulty.nz/) to do a wine tasting and have a special birthday lunch! Since we had lunch reservations, the wine tasting was included. Typically the wine tasting is $5 per person. It started raining really hard as soon as we got to Mt. Difficulty. Luckily they had a nice covered patio for wine tastings, and an indoor dining room with lots of windows to enjoy the view.

[![Lauren birthday lunch at Mt. Difficulty Winery](/assets/blog/central-otago-wineries/IMG_20190214_143051.jpg "Lauren birthday lunch at Mt. Difficulty Winery")](/assets/blog/central-otago-wineries/IMG_20190214_143051.jpg)

The lunch was incredible! I had a seafood dish and Gerrod had a steak dish. I can't think of a single improvement they could have made. We also had a celebratory birthday dessert and of course, more wine.

[![Artsy wine photo at Mt. Difficulty Winery](/assets/blog/central-otago-wineries/IMG_20190214_144435.jpg "Artsy wine photo at Mt. Difficulty Winery")](/assets/blog/central-otago-wineries/IMG_20190214_144435.jpg)

[![Fancy lunch at Mt. Difficulty Winery](/assets/blog/central-otago-wineries/IMG_20190214_145801.jpg "Fancy lunch at Mt. Difficulty Winery")](/assets/blog/central-otago-wineries/IMG_20190214_145801.jpg)

## Drive-by Wine Tastings

We stopped at three different wineries that we stumbled upon along the road. We didn't make reservations for these, we just walked in and hoped for the best!

### Wet Jacket Winery

First was [Wet Jacket](https://www.wetjacket.nz/). Wet Jacket has a cool outdoor area to hang out and get snacks and wine without doing a tasting. It seemed relaxing, but we opted to do a tasting instead. They also had cheese tastings, so we tried four types of cheese and four different wines for $5 NZD each. The wine and cheese was delicious, and we decided to buy a bottle of wine to enjoy later in the evening.

[![Chesses at Wet Jacket Winery](/assets/blog/central-otago-wineries/IMG_20190215_113759.jpg "Chesses at Wet Jacket Winery")](/assets/blog/central-otago-wineries/IMG_20190215_113759.jpg)

[![Outdoor chill area at Wet Jacket Winery](/assets/blog/central-otago-wineries/IMG_20190215_121456.jpg "Outdoor chill area at Wet Jacket Winery")](/assets/blog/central-otago-wineries/IMG_20190215_121456.jpg)

### Stone Ridge Estate

Second was [Stoneridge Estate Queenstown](https://stoneridge.co.nz/cellar-door). The gardens were gorgeous leading up to the tasting room, and when we got there they asked if we would like to do our tasting outside! The Tasting was $15 NZD for 6 types of wine. We were pretty hungry when we got to Stoneridge, so we ordered a platter of delicious meats and cheeses ($38 NZD).

[![Entrance to Stoneridge Estate Queenstown](/assets/blog/central-otago-wineries/IMG_20190215_122438.jpg "Entrance to Stoneridge Estate Queenstown")](/assets/blog/central-otago-wineries/IMG_20190215_122438.jpg)

[![Charcuterie at Stoneridge Estate Queenstown](/assets/blog/central-otago-wineries/IMG_20190215_124403.jpg "Charcuterie at Stoneridge Estate Queenstown")](/assets/blog/central-otago-wineries/IMG_20190215_124403.jpg)

### Chard Vineyard

While we were driving around the Kawarau River looking for The Gates of Argonath/The Pillars of Kings from the Fellowship of the Ring move, we stumbled upon [Chard Farm Vineyard](https://www.chardfarm.co.nz/).

Chard Farm offered a free wine tasting for the purchase of a bottle of wine. We tasted 6 types of wine, and decided to purchase one of their rosé wines at the end for $10 NZD. I love how cute pink wine is, but tend to think it is far too sweet. Chard Farm had a nice dry version which was just perfect.

Until next time!

Lauren (and Gerrod)
]]></content:encoded>
            <author>bestseenonfoot@gmail.com (Lauren Schirtzinger)</author>
        </item>
        <item>
            <title><![CDATA[Wanaka Hikes and a Cool Tree]]></title>
            <link>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/wanaka-hikes-and-a-cool-tree</link>
            <guid>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/wanaka-hikes-and-a-cool-tree</guid>
            <pubDate>Tue, 26 May 2020 17:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
            <description><![CDATA[Hey everyone! Lauren here! It has been quite a while since we last posted. We got very behind on our blog because we were too busy enjoying our trip, and when we got back to our home in Ohio, USA, we never caught up...]]></description>
            <content:encoded><![CDATA[
Hey everyone! Lauren here! It has been quite a while since we last posted. We got very behind on our blog because we were too busy enjoying our trip, and when we got back to our home in Ohio, USA, we never caught up. Hopefully it is not too late to share our incredible experience, and don't worry, we kept a very detailed journal.

And so, now to talk about the two amazing hikes we did near Wanaka on the South Island of New Zealand!

## Driving from Franz Josef to Wanaka

After eating breakfast in our hostel in Franz Josef, we packed up our things into our trusty rental vehicle and began our 4 hour drive to Wanaka! About 2 hours into our drive, we decided to stop at [Knight's Point Lookout](https://www.google.com/maps/place/Knights+Point+Lookout/@-43.715752,169.225502,15z/data=!4m6!3m5!1s0x6cd58fbed8f0e827:0x4eb9dd375c94d3f3!8m2!3d-43.715625!4d169.2254472!16zL20vMDVkc2M2?entry=ttu&g_ep=EgoyMDI1MDMwMy4wIKXMDSoASAFQAw%3D%3D) to use the bathroom and take pictures of the beautiful view of the coast before continuing our drive further inland through the mountains.

[![View from Knight's Point Lookout](/assets/blog/wanaka-hikes-and-a-cool-tree/IMG_20190211_115343.jpg "View from Knight's Point Lookout")](/assets/blog/wanaka-hikes-and-a-cool-tree/IMG_20190211_115343.jpg)

As we continued our drive, we were on the lookout for the mountains that were used in the beacon lighting scene in the Return of the King movie. We came upon a valley looking up at snow capped mountains, and determined they kind of looked like the right mountains. We snapped a few pics and kept driving around the beautiful Lake Wanaka.

[![Mountains and Lakes on the drive to Wanaka](/assets/blog/wanaka-hikes-and-a-cool-tree/IMG_20190211_125744.jpg "Mountains and Lakes on the drive to Wanaka")](/assets/blog/wanaka-hikes-and-a-cool-tree/IMG_20190211_125744.jpg)

[![More mountains and lakes on the drive to Wanaka](/assets/blog/wanaka-hikes-and-a-cool-tree/IMG_20190211_135432.jpg "More mountains and lakes on the drive to Wanaka")](/assets/blog/wanaka-hikes-and-a-cool-tree/IMG_20190211_135432.jpg)

As we approached [Wanaka](https://www.lakewanaka.co.nz/), we realized the entire town was packed with cars, bikes, and people and it didn't seem like there was any parking. After a quick Google search, we realized there was a large triathlon in a few days called [Challenge Wanaka](https://www.challenge-wanaka.com/). It became clear why we had trouble finding accommodations in Wanaka, and we were both glad we ended up with an Airbnb about 15 minutes south of town. After stopping by New World to do some grocery shopping, we headed out of Wanaka to our Airbnb to relax for the evening.

[Driving to Wanaka](https://www.youtube.com/embed/aMfA_3lxMQI)

## Hiking to the Rob Roy Glacier

The next day, we woke up around 8 AM and ate some breakfast, got ready for a day of hiking, and headed out to the [Wanaka Visitor's Center](https://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-recreation/places-to-go/otago/places/wanaka-area/). I knew I really wanted to hike the [Rob Roy Track](https://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-recreation/places-to-go/otago/places/mount-aspiring-national-park/things-to-do/tracks/rob-roy-track/), but all the information indicated there were some pretty serious river crossings on the road. Gerrod and I were both unsure if our little rental car could make the crossings. We originally decided to Hike [Roys Peak](https://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-recreation/places-to-go/otago/places/wanaka-area/things-to-do/roys-peak-track/) instead, but when we arrived at the trailhead, the parking lot was overflowing and there was nowhere to park, so we decided to risk the river crossings and we continued on to Rob Roy Glacier.

When we came to the river crossing, there was a sign indicating the crossing was only really bad when there has been recent rain. Fortunately, there hadn't been much rain so we made the crossing and headed to the trail head.

[![Water crossing near Rob Roy Glacier](/assets/blog/wanaka-hikes-and-a-cool-tree/IMG_20190212_121932.jpg "Water crossing near Rob Roy Glacier")](/assets/blog/wanaka-hikes-and-a-cool-tree/IMG_20190212_121932.jpg)

[![Valley near Rob Roy Glacier](/assets/blog/wanaka-hikes-and-a-cool-tree/IMG_20190212_130212.jpg "Valley near Rob Roy Glacier")](/assets/blog/wanaka-hikes-and-a-cool-tree/IMG_20190212_130212.jpg)

[![Forest near Rob Roy Glacier](/assets/blog/wanaka-hikes-and-a-cool-tree/IMG_20190212_154128.jpg "Forest near Rob Roy Glacier")](/assets/blog/wanaka-hikes-and-a-cool-tree/IMG_20190212_154128.jpg)

The valley at the start of the hike was gorgeous, and it only took about an hour and a half to get to the Rob Roy Glacier. There were signs along the trail saying that there were frequent sightings of [kea](https://www.nzbirdsonline.org.nz/species/kea) in the area, and to not disturb them. I really wanted to see a kea, a very intelligent and very endangered mountain parrot. We were not lucky enough to see any kea, but at least we had some gorgeous mountain views.

[![Looking through the trees at Rob Roy Glacier](/assets/blog/wanaka-hikes-and-a-cool-tree/IMG_20190212_152247.jpg "Looking through the trees at Rob Roy Glacier")](/assets/blog/wanaka-hikes-and-a-cool-tree/IMG_20190212_152247.jpg)

[![River through valley near Rob Roy Glacier](/assets/blog/wanaka-hikes-and-a-cool-tree/IMG_20190212_155614.jpg "River through valley near Rob Roy Glacier")](/assets/blog/wanaka-hikes-and-a-cool-tree/IMG_20190212_155614.jpg)

[![River through valley near Rob Roy Glacier](/assets/blog/wanaka-hikes-and-a-cool-tree/IMG_20190212_160427.jpg "River through valley near Rob Roy Glacier")](/assets/blog/wanaka-hikes-and-a-cool-tree/IMG_20190212_160427.jpg)

After making it to the glacier, we enjoyed some lunch and took some pictures. The glacier is STUNNING. There are several small waterfalls cascading down the cliff, and the green moss and vegetation on the mountains beneath the glacier were such an incredible contrast. There were also some informational signs near the top, and as a chronic informational sign reader, I of course read every single one.

[![Waterfalls near Rob Roy Glacier](/assets/blog/wanaka-hikes-and-a-cool-tree/IMG_20190212_143220.jpg "Waterfalls near Rob Roy Glacier")](/assets/blog/wanaka-hikes-and-a-cool-tree/IMG_20190212_143220.jpg)

[![Rob Roy Glacier](/assets/blog/wanaka-hikes-and-a-cool-tree/IMG_20190212_143223.jpg "Rob Roy Glacier")](/assets/blog/wanaka-hikes-and-a-cool-tree/IMG_20190212_143223.jpg)

We then made our way back down the mountain, and then headed back to our Airbnb to make dinner, do some much needed laundry, and prepare for our hike the next day!

[Rob Roy Glacier Hike](https://www.youtube.com/embed/ev41147-VCE)

## Hiking Roys Peak

The next day, we woke up bright and early to try and beat the rush to the popular Roys Peak hike. Despite waking up at 7 AM and leaving right after eating breakfast, when we arrived at the [Roys Peak](https://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-recreation/places-to-go/otago/places/wanaka-area/things-to-do/roys-peak-track/) parking area around 8 AM, there were no available spots! Luckily, soon after we arrived, we saw a guy finishing the hike. He seemed to be getting ready to leave, so we waited for him to vacate the parking spot. While we waited, Gerrod and I realized this guy must have started hiking at 3 or 4 AM to complete the hike that early! We must not be dedicated hikers, because I don't think I could do that.

[![Path up to Roys Peak](/assets/blog/wanaka-hikes-and-a-cool-tree/IMG_20190213_112608.jpg "Path up to Roys Peak")](/assets/blog/wanaka-hikes-and-a-cool-tree/IMG_20190213_112608.jpg)

The trail was so steep, and there was absolutely no shade along the trail. It was a very sunny day out, and needless to say I was STRUGGLING. It took us about 3 hours to get to the top. The 360 degree view was definitely worth the struggle! We had a bird's eye view of the entire town of Wanaka nestled between the mountains, and could see the vast Lake Wanaka. We ate some lunch, took some pictures, and appreciated the view before heading back down the mountain.

[![Lakes from atop Roys Peak](/assets/blog/wanaka-hikes-and-a-cool-tree/IMG_20190213_124441.jpg "Lakes from atop Roys Peak")](/assets/blog/wanaka-hikes-and-a-cool-tree/IMG_20190213_124441.jpg)

[![Looking at Wanaka from Roys Peak](/assets/blog/wanaka-hikes-and-a-cool-tree/IMG_20190213_124452.jpg "Looking at Wanaka from Roys Peak")](/assets/blog/wanaka-hikes-and-a-cool-tree/IMG_20190213_124452.jpg)

[![Gerrod and Lauren at the top of Roys Peak](/assets/blog/wanaka-hikes-and-a-cool-tree/IMG_20190213_124945.jpg "Gerrod and Lauren at the top of Roys Peak")](/assets/blog/wanaka-hikes-and-a-cool-tree/IMG_20190213_124945.jpg)

On our way back down, I made Gerrod stop at some very popular photo spots to take some cute photos together. We even waited in a line for one, and honestly it wasn't worth it. It took less time to get back to our car, and after about 2-2.5 hours, we were packing up our gear and headed back to our Airbnb to make some dinner and enjoy some wine we got from the grocery store.

[![Looking down at the line for the photo spot at Roys Peak](/assets/blog/wanaka-hikes-and-a-cool-tree/IMG_20190213_130618.jpg "Looking down at the line for the photo spot at Roys Peak")](/assets/blog/wanaka-hikes-and-a-cool-tree/IMG_20190213_130618.jpg)

[![Line to photo spot near Roys Peak](/assets/blog/wanaka-hikes-and-a-cool-tree/IMG_20190213_112602.jpg "Line to photo spot near Roys Peak")](/assets/blog/wanaka-hikes-and-a-cool-tree/IMG_20190213_112602.jpg)

[Roys Peak](https://www.youtube.com/embed/F3TO02sq77I)

## The Wanaka Tree

The next day, we visited some wineries and stopped at the famous [#ThatWanakaTree](https://www.google.com/maps/place/%23ThatWanakaTree/@-44.6998274,169.1195507,15z/data=!4m6!3m5!1s0xa9d545f8be1fcb13:0x394008aedefe80b4!8m2!3d-44.6983476!4d169.1175501!16s%2Fg%2F11b77yr38k?entry=ttu&g_ep=EgoyMDI1MDMwMy4wIKXMDSoASAFQAw%3D%3D). You can find it just outside of town, and it is definitely worth a quick stop even though it is an "Instagram" popular spot. The tree looks so out of place in the water, and as an added bonus there was a momma duck and two babies swimming near it. I am going to make a separate post about the wineries we visited in the [Otago Wine Region](/posts/central-otago-wineries), which includes those around Wanaka, so keep an eye out for that post next!

[![Ducks admiring #ThatWanakaTree](/assets/blog/wanaka-hikes-and-a-cool-tree/IMG_20190214_122623.jpg "Ducks admiring #ThatWanakaTree")](/assets/blog/wanaka-hikes-and-a-cool-tree/IMG_20190214_122623.jpg)

[![#ThatWanakaTree on a foggy day](/assets/blog/wanaka-hikes-and-a-cool-tree/IMG_20190214_122701.jpg "#ThatWanakaTree on a foggy day")](/assets/blog/wanaka-hikes-and-a-cool-tree/IMG_20190214_122701.jpg)

[#ThatWanakaTree](https://www.youtube.com/embed/quW70Lkycuc)

Until next time!

Lauren (and Gerrod)
]]></content:encoded>
            <author>bestseenonfoot@gmail.com (Lauren Schirtzinger)</author>
        </item>
        <item>
            <title><![CDATA[Exploring Fox Glacier and Franz Josef Glacier]]></title>
            <link>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/exploring-fox-glacier-and-franz-josef-glacier</link>
            <guid>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/exploring-fox-glacier-and-franz-josef-glacier</guid>
            <pubDate>Mon, 19 Aug 2019 17:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
            <description><![CDATA[Hey everyone! Lauren here to tell you about our adventure exploring the Fox Glacier and the Franz Josef Glacier on the west coast of New Zealand’s South Island...]]></description>
            <content:encoded><![CDATA[
Hey everyone! Lauren here to tell you about our adventure exploring the Fox Glacier and the Franz Josef Glacier on the west coast of New Zealand’s South Island!

## Hokitika

We woke up around 8am to pack and get ready for the day. We had a long 3.5 hour drive to Franz Josef ahead of us, and after I read about a small town called Hokitika, which was conveniently half way to our next destination, I knew it would be the perfect place to stop and stretch our legs.

[Hokitika](https://hokitika.org/) is known for its pounamu, also known as greenstone or New Zealand jade. The greenstone is highly valued by the Māori, and objects made from pounamu have an important role in Māori culture. For those of you that know what jade is, it is a beautiful color of green! Green is my absolute favorite color, so I find jade particularly beautiful.

[![Sticks displaying Hokitika at Hokitika Beach](/assets/blog/exploring-fox-glacier-and-franz-josef-glacier/IMG_20190210_113430.jpg "Sticks displaying Hokitika at Hokitika Beach")](/assets/blog/exploring-fox-glacier-and-franz-josef-glacier/IMG_20190210_113430.jpg)

When we arrived in Hokitika, we found a parking lot near the beach and began our walk. I read that one of the best ways to find the pounamu was along the rocky beach. Greenstone only appears green when it is wet, so as we walked along the beach, I would pick up any wet rock that looked a little green and shove it in my pocket.

[![Hokitika Beach](/assets/blog/exploring-fox-glacier-and-franz-josef-glacier/IMG_20190210_114019.jpg "Hokitika Beach")](/assets/blog/exploring-fox-glacier-and-franz-josef-glacier/IMG_20190210_114019.jpg)

I encouraged Gerrod to look for green rocks too, and by the end I had pockets AND hands full of rocks. I figured, one of them had to be jade, right? As we headed back to the car, I sorted through my rock collection, and kept the greenest ones. This of course meant that for the entire remainder of our trip, I was lugging around several “possibly” jade rocks. I’m sure it increased the weight of my luggage, and Gerrod made sure to point this out if I approached the baggage weight limit.

After our walk on the beach, we decided to check out some of the jade carvings at the local shops in Hokitika. There were so many amazing pieces of artwork! Since I wasn’t sure that any of my rocks were actually jade, I decided to buy a little 15 NZD jade ring at one of the stores before returning to our car to continue our drive to Franz Josef.

[Hokitika Beach](https://www.youtube.com/embed/ole8f-apEQk)

## Driving to Franz Josef

The rest of the drive to Franz Josef went smooth, and soon we arrived at our hostel, [Chateau Backpackers and Motel](https://www.chateaunz.co.nz/). We were a bit too early to check in, but there was plenty of hangout space to relax while we waited for check in.

## Hiking to Fox Glacier

After finally checking into our dorm room at the hostel, we dropped off our stuff and headed to [Fox Glacier](https://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-recreation/places-to-go/west-coast/places/westland-tai-poutini-national-park/fox-glacier-area/). There are several hikes in the area, but since we were limited on time, we decided to do the Fox Glacier Valley Walk, which only takes around an hour. After parking in the lot, we headed out on the hiking trail to the glacier.

[![Valley walk to Fox Glacier](/assets/blog/exploring-fox-glacier-and-franz-josef-glacier/IMG_20190210_161020.jpg "Valley walk to Fox Glacier")](/assets/blog/exploring-fox-glacier-and-franz-josef-glacier/IMG_20190210_161020.jpg)

[![Some water rolling over rocks near Fox Glacier](/assets/blog/exploring-fox-glacier-and-franz-josef-glacier/IMG_20190210_161638.jpg "Some water rolling over rocks near Fox Glacier")](/assets/blog/exploring-fox-glacier-and-franz-josef-glacier/IMG_20190210_161638.jpg)

[![Glacier water running down the valley at Fox Glacier](/assets/blog/exploring-fox-glacier-and-franz-josef-glacier/IMG_20190210_162145.jpg "Glacier water running down the valley at Fox Glacier")](/assets/blog/exploring-fox-glacier-and-franz-josef-glacier/IMG_20190210_162145.jpg)

The walk followed the large valley beneath the base of the glacier, and not too far along the trail we could see the Fox Glacier in the distance. The glacier has receded a lot in the last 50 years, and there were several signs along the trail pointing out where the glacier previously had ended. It was crazy, and very sad to see how much smaller it has gotten!

[![Fox Glacier](/assets/blog/exploring-fox-glacier-and-franz-josef-glacier/IMG_20190210_163400.jpg "Fox Glacier")](/assets/blog/exploring-fox-glacier-and-franz-josef-glacier/IMG_20190210_163400.jpg)

[![Gerrod and Lauren at Fox Glacier](/assets/blog/exploring-fox-glacier-and-franz-josef-glacier/IMG_20190210_163604.jpg "Gerrod and Lauren at Fox Glacier")](/assets/blog/exploring-fox-glacier-and-franz-josef-glacier/IMG_20190210_163604.jpg)

The trail ends at a viewing area a safe distance away from the glacier. Since it is constantly moving, ice and rock can fall from the glacier, so the viewing area changes depending on where the glacier is! The views were incredible, and after taking in the beauty of the glacier, we headed back to our rental car to head to the Franz Josef Glacier!

[Fox Glacier](https://www.youtube.com/embed/nzrRojioY0Y)

## Hiking to Franz Josef Glacier

The hike to the [Franz Josef Glacier](https://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-recreation/places-to-go/west-coast/places/westland-tai-poutini-national-park/franz-josef-glacier/) was a bit longer than the hike to Fox Glacier, but was an easy hike with incredible views along the way! The hike started as a forest walk, which ended with a beautiful view of the river valley and the Franz Josef Glacier!

[![Lauren walking past a cool wall going to Franz Josef Glacier](/assets/blog/exploring-fox-glacier-and-franz-josef-glacier/IMG_20190210_175851.jpg "Lauren walking past a cool wall going to Franz Josef Glacier")](/assets/blog/exploring-fox-glacier-and-franz-josef-glacier/IMG_20190210_175851.jpg)

The next portion of the hike is monitored by the park department, and apparently changes depending on flooding, landslides, ice collapses, etc. Luckily for us, it was open! We went past a cool waterfall called Trident falls, and after about an hour of walking, we made it to the final viewing area!

[![Cool waterfall near Franz Josef Glacier](/assets/blog/exploring-fox-glacier-and-franz-josef-glacier/IMG_20190210_185024.jpg "Cool waterfall near Franz Josef Glacier")](/assets/blog/exploring-fox-glacier-and-franz-josef-glacier/IMG_20190210_185024.jpg)

[![Cool waterfalls near Franz Josef Glacier](/assets/blog/exploring-fox-glacier-and-franz-josef-glacier/IMG_20190210_185032.jpg "Cool waterfalls near Franz Josef Glacier")](/assets/blog/exploring-fox-glacier-and-franz-josef-glacier/IMG_20190210_185032.jpg)

I found both glaciers incredibly beautiful, but it was sad to see how much both of them have receded due to climate change in the past years.

[![Franz Josef Glacier](/assets/blog/exploring-fox-glacier-and-franz-josef-glacier/IMG_20190210_182450.jpg "Franz Josef Glacier")](/assets/blog/exploring-fox-glacier-and-franz-josef-glacier/IMG_20190210_182450.jpg)

[![Valley near Franz Josef Glacier](/assets/blog/exploring-fox-glacier-and-franz-josef-glacier/IMG_20190210_185711.jpg "Valley near Franz Josef Glacier")](/assets/blog/exploring-fox-glacier-and-franz-josef-glacier/IMG_20190210_185711.jpg)

Also, since I haven’t mentioned Lord of the Rings in my past few New Zealand posts, the scene in the Return of the King with the lighting of the beacons that run along the White Mountains from Gondor to Rohan was filmed near the Franz Josef Glacier. We looked up to see if we could see anything lit, but it seemed that Gondor was doing alright.

[Franz Josef Glacier](https://www.youtube.com/embed/dnJMjLx0J4g)

## Back to Town and Bed

After enjoying the beautiful views, we headed back to our hostel in Franz Josef. After making ourselves a luxurious pasta dinner and doing some more booking, we headed off to bed in preparation for the following day's adventure.

Until next time!

Lauren (and Gerrod)
]]></content:encoded>
            <author>bestseenonfoot@gmail.com (Lauren Schirtzinger)</author>
        </item>
        <item>
            <title><![CDATA[Paparoa National Park and Cape Foulwind]]></title>
            <link>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/paparoa-national-park-and-cape-foulwind</link>
            <guid>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/paparoa-national-park-and-cape-foulwind</guid>
            <pubDate>Thu, 01 Aug 2019 17:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
            <description><![CDATA[Hey everyone! Lauren here to tell you about our time looking at "pancakes" in the Paparoa National Park and at Cape Foulwind...]]></description>
            <content:encoded><![CDATA[
Hey everyone! Lauren here to tell you about our time looking at "pancakes" in the Paparoa National Park and at Cape Foulwind! Both of these places are on the beautiful west coast of the South Island of New Zealand.

## Punakaiki Pancakes

We had a bit of a late start as I "accidentally" slept in until 10am despite Gerrod attempting to wake me up at 8am. I'm sure he didn't mind two hours of Nintendo Switch time though. After getting ready, we headed out to the [Punakaiki Pancakes](https://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-recreation/places-to-go/west-coast/places/paparoa-national-park/things-to-do/tracks/pancake-rocks-and-blowholes-walk/)!

The pancake rocks are located in [Paparoa National Park](https://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-recreation/places-to-go/west-coast/places/paparoa-national-park/), which was about a 20-30 minute drive south of our accommodation, [Charleston Holiday Park](https://www.charlestonmotorcamp.co.nz/). On the drive to the pancakes we stopped at the Itimahuwhero Viewpoint to snap some pics and enjoy the beautiful view of the coast. After finally arriving, we took a quick look around the park visitor's center which is located across the street from the pancake rocks.

[![Itimahuwhero Viewpoint](/assets/blog/paparoa-national-park-and-cape-foulwind/IMG_20190209_114341.jpg "Itimahuwhero Viewpoint")](/assets/blog/paparoa-national-park-and-cape-foulwind/IMG_20190209_114341.jpg)

The walking path is very short and paved, making access super easy, so we were quickly looking at the pancakes. The rock pancakes were less delicious than the usual eating variety, but the limestone rock stacks were visually amazing! It looked like someone had stacked tons of smooth flat rocks in weird piles near the ocean. Gerrod kept bringing up weird conspiracy theories that ancient people did build up the rocks by hand to confuse future generations.

[![Entrance to Punakaiki Pancakes](/assets/blog/paparoa-national-park-and-cape-foulwind/IMG_20190209_120756.jpg "Entrance to Punakaiki Pancakes")](/assets/blog/paparoa-national-park-and-cape-foulwind/IMG_20190209_120756.jpg)

[![Some of the formations at Punakaiki Pancakes](/assets/blog/paparoa-national-park-and-cape-foulwind/IMG_20190209_121912.jpg "Some of the formations at Punakaiki Pancakes")](/assets/blog/paparoa-national-park-and-cape-foulwind/IMG_20190209_121912.jpg)

[![More rock formations at Punakaiki Pancakes](/assets/blog/paparoa-national-park-and-cape-foulwind/IMG_20190209_122109.jpg "More rock formations at Punakaiki Pancakes")](/assets/blog/paparoa-national-park-and-cape-foulwind/IMG_20190209_122109.jpg)

There were supposed to be blowholes among the pancake rocks, but of course we were there during low tide and the blowholes are only really active at high tide. Despite our bad timing, we enjoyed the easy walk through the pancake rocks.

[![Some of the inner rock formations at Punakaiki Pancakes](/assets/blog/paparoa-national-park-and-cape-foulwind/IMG_20190209_122652.jpg "Some of the inner rock formations at Punakaiki Pancakes")](/assets/blog/paparoa-national-park-and-cape-foulwind/IMG_20190209_122652.jpg)

[![Cove at Punakaiki Pancakes](/assets/blog/paparoa-national-park-and-cape-foulwind/IMG_20190209_122832.jpg "Cove at Punakaiki Pancakes")](/assets/blog/paparoa-national-park-and-cape-foulwind/IMG_20190209_122832.jpg)

## Punakaiki Cavern

After grabbing some lunch at a cafe across the street from the pancake rocks, we decided to explore [Punakaiki Cavern](https://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-recreation/places-to-go/west-coast/places/paparoa-national-park/things-to-do/tracks/punakaiki-cavern/), which was just a short 5 minute walk down the street from the carpark.

[![Lauren walking down the path to Punakaiki Cavern](/assets/blog/paparoa-national-park-and-cape-foulwind/IMG_20190209_125958.jpg "Lauren walking down the path to Punakaiki Cavern")](/assets/blog/paparoa-national-park-and-cape-foulwind/IMG_20190209_125958.jpg)

Gerrod and I made sure to pack our flashlight and headlamp in the morning, but of course I forgot to put batteries in the headlamp so we were stuck with only one flashlight. Thanks to modern technology, we did have the use of a handy cell phone flashlight.

[![A view of Punakaiki Cavern](/assets/blog/paparoa-national-park-and-cape-foulwind/IMG_20190209_130105.jpg "A view of Punakaiki Cavern")](/assets/blog/paparoa-national-park-and-cape-foulwind/IMG_20190209_130105.jpg)

It seemed that there were many different paths that you could take in the cave....if you had proper equipment like a functioning headlamp. Despite our poor planning, we spent some time poking around the parts of the cave we could.

[Punakaiki Pancake Rocks and Cavern](https://www.youtube.com/embed/0POtVCAuMko)

## Cape Foulwind

After our quick cave adventure, we headed back north to see the New Zealand fur seal colony at [Cape Foulwind](https://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-recreation/places-to-go/west-coast/places/westport/things-to-do/tracks/cape-foulwind-walkway/). We parked at Tauranga Bay, which is located at the southern end of the Cape Foulwind walking trail. The walk to the viewing platform was super easy, and we saw some [weka](https://www.doc.govt.nz/nature/native-animals/birds/birds-a-z/weka/), which is a pretty cool native New Zealand bird! There were also some informational signs about seals and stuff along the trail.

[![Beach at Cape Foulwind](/assets/blog/paparoa-national-park-and-cape-foulwind/IMG_20190209_154501.jpg "Beach at Cape Foulwind")](/assets/blog/paparoa-national-park-and-cape-foulwind/IMG_20190209_154501.jpg)

At the view point, we could see several seals below us swimming in the water, and there was a telescope thing that you could use to see the seals up close. I loved seeing the seals swimming in the water, and think it is fun to just watch them napping on the rocks below.

[![Crazy rock formation at Cape Foulwind](/assets/blog/paparoa-national-park-and-cape-foulwind/IMG_20190209_155331.jpg "Crazy rock formation at Cape Foulwind")](/assets/blog/paparoa-national-park-and-cape-foulwind/IMG_20190209_155331.jpg)

[![Seals at Cape Foulwind](/assets/blog/paparoa-national-park-and-cape-foulwind/IMG_20190209_155344.jpg "Seals at Cape Foulwind")](/assets/blog/paparoa-national-park-and-cape-foulwind/IMG_20190209_155344.jpg)

From the seal colony, there is a longer walking track that leads to the Cape Foulwind lighthouse, but Gerrod and I opted to head back to our car since we needed to go grocery shopping, which was even further north in the town of Westport.

[Cape Foulwind Seal Colony](https://www.youtube.com/embed/oRQktSJydrw)

After doing our grocery shopping, we headed back to our accommodation to cook a delicious dinner of chicken, corn on the cob, and yummy potatoes and share a bottle of New Zealand sauvignon blanc.

Until next time!

Lauren (and Gerrod)
]]></content:encoded>
            <author>bestseenonfoot@gmail.com (Lauren Schirtzinger)</author>
        </item>
        <item>
            <title><![CDATA[New Zealand: North Island to South Island]]></title>
            <link>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/new-zealand-north-island-to-south-island</link>
            <guid>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/new-zealand-north-island-to-south-island</guid>
            <pubDate>Mon, 03 Jun 2019 17:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
            <description><![CDATA[Hey everyone! Lauren here to tell you about our journey from the North Island to the South Island of New Zealand...]]></description>
            <content:encoded><![CDATA[
Hey everyone! Lauren here to tell you about our journey from the North
Island to the South Island of New Zealand.

## Wellington Ferry Terminal

After eating breakfast and packing up our things, Gerrod and I headed to
the Wellington Ferry Terminal. It was sad for our journey on the North
Island to come to a close, but I was very excited to do some hiking and
see the mountains of the South Island.

We decided to get the South Island via a ferry across the Cook Strait on
the [Interislander](https://www.greatjourneysofnz.co.nz/interislander/).
Interislander is the main ferry service across New Zealand's
Cook Strait, between Wellington in the North Island and Picton in the
South Island. We booked the tickets online, and they cost us about 80
USD. On our way to the ferry terminal, we were following Maps.ME
navigation, and for some reason, it directed us to do what felt like an
illegal u-turn.

After getting to the terminal in the somewhat illegal fashion, we
unloaded our vehicle and checked it over to be returned. I watched our
luggage as Gerrod returned it to Avis, and I felt somewhat sad since the
car had been our trusty exploration companion for the last three weeks!

## Boarding the Ferry

After checking our bags, Gerrod and I boarded the large ship. The
interior was way more luxurious than both of us were expecting, with the
boat being several stories, and having multiple restaurants and cafes.
It almost felt like a cruise ship! We explored the different levels,
before finding some interior seats on “deck 7”.

[![On the top deck of the Interislander in Wellington](/assets/blog/new-zealand-north-island-to-south-island/IMG_20190208_082903-PANO.jpg "On the top deck of the Interislander in Wellington")](/assets/blog/new-zealand-north-island-to-south-island/IMG_20190208_082903-PANO.jpg)

## Chilling on the Ferry

Gerrod and I decided to work on our blog for a bit while we were on the
ferry. The journey across the Cook Strait takes 3 to 3.5 hours, so we
had plenty of time to relax before we got to the South Island. We got a
little bit of work done, but I started feeling really nauseous.

I attempted to solve this by getting a hot chocolate and shortbread
cookie from one of the cafes on board, and it surprisingly made me feel
I little better. We had a few other snacks, and then decided since we
were headed to the scenic South Island, we should watch Lord of The
Rings Return of the King!

## Enjoying Views of the Queen Charlotte Sound

Our Airbnb host told us before we left that we should be outside for the
last hour because there were great views in the sound, so Gerrod and I
paused our movie and headed outside around 11 am. We first went to the
top deck, and although there were great views, there were tons of people
and it was difficult to get a good picture of the scenery. So Gerrod
went to checkout out the lower deck to see if there were fewer people.

He found a good spot on deck 8 with beautiful views, but it was shaded
and pretty chilly! Luckily we were prepared with our coats, so we put on
our jackets and stayed here for the remainder of the ferry ride.

[![Lauren and Gerrod on the Interislander](/assets/blog/new-zealand-north-island-to-south-island/IMG_20190208_113559.jpg "Lauren and Gerrod on the Interislander")](/assets/blog/new-zealand-north-island-to-south-island/IMG_20190208_113559.jpg)

The views were beautiful! It was very sunny outside, and we even saw a
penguin swimming in the water beneath the ship! We also saw a huge pink
jellyfish, and a seal swimming in the water.

[![Views of the Queen Charlotte Sound](/assets/blog/new-zealand-north-island-to-south-island/IMG_9139.jpg "Views of the Queen Charlotte Sound")](/assets/blog/new-zealand-north-island-to-south-island/IMG_9139.jpg)

[![The Interislander sailing through the Queen Charlotte Sound!!](/assets/blog/new-zealand-north-island-to-south-island/IMG_9126.jpg "The Interislander sailing through the Queen Charlotte Sound!!")](/assets/blog/new-zealand-north-island-to-south-island/IMG_9126.jpg)

[Riding the New Zealand Interislander](https://www.youtube.com/embed/dYqjqlshPWk)

## Arrival in Picton

When we arrived in Picton, we waited until it was the pedestrians turn
to get off the ship, and then headed to grab our checked luggage. The
luggage pick-up was just like an airport; it used a conveyor belt. After
finding our bags on the conveyor belt, we headed to Avis to pick up our
rental car.

[![Gerrod waiting for our bags at Picton ferry terminal](/assets/blog/new-zealand-north-island-to-south-island/20190208_123851.jpg "Gerrod waiting for our bags at Picton ferry terminal")](/assets/blog/new-zealand-north-island-to-south-island/20190208_123851.jpg)

There was a very long line outside of Avis, but luckily Gerrod had no
issues. Funny enough, we got the EXACT same color, make, and model car
as we had for three weeks on the North Island. I think every time I see
a Grey Toyota Yaris now I will think of New Zealand!

## Last Minute Booking

We were worried we would have issues picking up a rental car, and didn’t
have any accomodation booked for our time on the South Island since we
didn’t know how much driving time we would have! So after picking up our
car, Gerrod and I headed to the Picton Library to use their wifi and get
something booked.

We were looking for something along the west coast since I had read
online that it had gorgeous views and ended up booking a place called [Charleston Holiday Park](http://www.charlestonmotorcamp.co.nz/) which is located about 20 minutes north of the Paparoa National Park.

## Driving Time

We then headed to the west coast in our luxurious rental Toyota Yaris!
The scenery at the beginning of the drive was mostly vineyards, with
rolling hills in the distance. As we got further and further on our
drive, there were even more mountains.

[![Views on our drive!](/assets/blog/new-zealand-north-island-to-south-island/20190208_181320.jpg "Views on our drive!")](/assets/blog/new-zealand-north-island-to-south-island/20190208_181320.jpg)

[![Driving to the west coast of the south island!](/assets/blog/new-zealand-north-island-to-south-island/20190208_181322.jpg "Driving to the west coast of the south island!")](/assets/blog/new-zealand-north-island-to-south-island/20190208_181322.jpg)

## Nelson Lakes

About 2 hours into our drive, we decided to stop at Lake Rotoiti in [Nelson Lakes National Park](https://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-recreation/places-to-go/nelson-tasman/places/nelson-lakes-national-park/) to stretch our legs. We walked for a bit along the [Brunner Peninsula Nature Walk](https://www.doc.govt.nz/globalassets/documents/parks-and-recreation/tracks-and-walks/nelson-marlborough/nelson-lakes-walks-brochure.pdf) and took in the scenery before continuing our drive.

[![View of Nelson Lakes National Park](/assets/blog/new-zealand-north-island-to-south-island/IMG_20190208_161642-PANO.jpg "View of Nelson Lakes National Park")](/assets/blog/new-zealand-north-island-to-south-island/IMG_20190208_161642-PANO.jpg)

[![Gerrod at Nelson Lakes National Park](/assets/blog/new-zealand-north-island-to-south-island/20190208_163406.jpg "Gerrod at Nelson Lakes National Park")](/assets/blog/new-zealand-north-island-to-south-island/20190208_163406.jpg)

We finally arrived at our accommodation around 7 pm and prepared
ourselves for the next day by finishing the Return of the King. The
scenery on our drive was incredible, and had me so excited to see more
of the South Island!

Until next time!

Lauren (and Gerrod)
]]></content:encoded>
            <author>bestseenonfoot@gmail.com (Lauren Schirtzinger)</author>
        </item>
        <item>
            <title><![CDATA[Exploring Wellington, New Zealand]]></title>
            <link>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/exploring-wellington-new-zealand</link>
            <guid>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/exploring-wellington-new-zealand</guid>
            <pubDate>Mon, 27 May 2019 17:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
            <description><![CDATA[Hey everyone, Lauren here to continue sharing our time in Wellington! We were there at the beginning of February 2019, and were lucky enough to be in Wellington on Waitangi Day, a New Zealand national holiday...]]></description>
            <content:encoded><![CDATA[
Hey everyone, Lauren here to continue sharing our time in Wellington! We were there at the beginning of February 2019, and were lucky enough to be in Wellington on Waitangi Day, a New Zealand national holiday.

Waitangi Day is on February 6th every year, and marks the signing of the Treaty of Waitangi between representatives of the British Crown and over 500 Māori chiefs in 1840. The Treaty of Waitangi is often considered to be New Zealand's founding document!

## Weta Workshop

Gerrod and I had been looking forward to visiting [Weta Workshop](https://www.wetaworkshop.com/) since we arrived in New Zealand! For those of you that don't know, Weta Workshop is the special effects and prop company that produced sets, costumes, armor, weapons, creatures and miniatures for The Lord of the Rings films!

We decided to book the There and Back Again: The Full Experience tour, which cost $88 NZD. Unbeknownst to us, we happened to schedule our tour of the famous workshop on Waitangi Day. This was lucky for us because we could not find the parking location the booking specified! After driving around the block a few times and looking for the lot, we ended up going to an information center that informed us all parking was free in the city since it was Waitangi Day! Also, since many people were off work, it was very easy to find a place to park at 9am.

### Off to Weta

We waited around for sometime before a bus showed up to drive us to Weta Workshop. Weta is located in Miramar, which is a suburb located on the Miramar Peninsula south-east of the Wellington city center. Our driver also acted as our tour guide, and pointed out several landmarks on the way to Weta.

We also learned some things about Wellington, including how there is a tradition among people from Wellington to “toot” their vehicle's horn as they pass through the Mount Victoria tunnel, leading to it being nicknamed the "Toot Tunnel". Our guide said the reason this originated was as a tribute to a woman named Phyllis Symons, who was buried alive in construction material by George Coats during the construction of the tunnel.

### Watching a Documentary at Weta Cave

[![Entrance to Weta Workshop](/assets/blog/exploring-wellington-new-zealand/IMG_20190206_092122.jpg "Entrance to Weta Workshop")](/assets/blog/exploring-wellington-new-zealand/IMG_20190206_092122.jpg)

We finally arrived and began our tour at the Weta Cave. The tour began with a documentary about the history of the Weta Group from co-founders Richard Taylor and Peter Jackson. The documentary was pretty short, but was interesting and discussed how Weta has evolved over the years.

[![Troll outside of Weta Workshop](/assets/blog/exploring-wellington-new-zealand/IMG_20190206_092132.jpg "Troll outside of Weta Workshop")](/assets/blog/exploring-wellington-new-zealand/IMG_20190206_092132.jpg)

### Weta Cave Shop

[![Swords from Lord of the Rings at Weta Workshop](/assets/blog/exploring-wellington-new-zealand/IMG_20190206_092328.jpg "Swords from Lord of the Rings at Weta Workshop")](/assets/blog/exploring-wellington-new-zealand/IMG_20190206_092328.jpg)

After the documentary, we explored the Weta Cave shop. They were selling all sorts of movie merchandise and collectables. They also had a small museum-like thing with movie props from films Weta has worked on. We were tempted to buy some things, but since we are traveling so long, we don't want to carry around a bunch of souvenirs.

[![Uruk at Weta Workshop](/assets/blog/exploring-wellington-new-zealand/IMG_20190206_092415.jpg "Uruk at Weta Workshop")](/assets/blog/exploring-wellington-new-zealand/IMG_20190206_092415.jpg)

### Weta Cave Workshop Tour

Next, we walked to the Weta Cave Workshop for a tour. We got to look at and touch a bunch of movie props. Our guide also described movies Weta has worked on and the movie making process. There were some drawings of movie costume concepts that were ultimately not used in the film, and it was interesting to think about what the movies would have looked like if that was the design they had gone with!

Normally there are people working in the shop and you can see them work during the tour, but because of Waitangi Day it was very quiet. Unfortunately, we weren't allowed to take photos here.

### Miniatures Stage Tour

[![Thunderbirds base bigature at Weta Workshop](/assets/blog/exploring-wellington-new-zealand/IMG_20190206_112432.jpg "Thunderbirds base bigature at Weta Workshop")](/assets/blog/exploring-wellington-new-zealand/IMG_20190206_112432.jpg)

Next, we boarded a bus to head to the miniatures/bigatures located in another studio. They had a display set up for a reboot show filmed there called Thunderbirds Are Go. Gerrod had never heard of Thunderbirds at all, but it looked a lot like Team America. It turns out that Thunderbirds was the inspiration for Team America!

[![Thunderbirds mountain at Weta Workshop](/assets/blog/exploring-wellington-new-zealand/IMG_20190206_112434.jpg "Thunderbirds mountain at Weta Workshop")](/assets/blog/exploring-wellington-new-zealand/IMG_20190206_112434.jpg)

The miniatures were incredibly detailed, and even though we had never heard of the show, it was very cool to see how the miniatures were made and how everyday objects were used to represent other things in the sets.

[![Lauren in front of Thunderbirds mansion at Weta Workshop](/assets/blog/exploring-wellington-new-zealand/IMG_20190206_112857.jpg "Lauren in front of Thunderbirds mansion at Weta Workshop")](/assets/blog/exploring-wellington-new-zealand/IMG_20190206_112857.jpg)

### Back to Downtown Wellington

After the Miniatures Stage Tour set, we headed back to the Weta Cave and waited for a while before our tour bus picked us up to head back to Wellington!

[![Lauren being stared down by a troll at Weta Workshop](/assets/blog/exploring-wellington-new-zealand/IMG_20190206_120920.jpg "Lauren being stared down by a troll at Weta Workshop")](/assets/blog/exploring-wellington-new-zealand/IMG_20190206_120920.jpg)

[![Lauren and Gerrod hanging out with a troll in front of Weta Workshop](/assets/blog/exploring-wellington-new-zealand/IMG_20190206_121358.jpg "Lauren and Gerrod hanging out with a troll in front of Weta Workshop")](/assets/blog/exploring-wellington-new-zealand/IMG_20190206_121358.jpg)

## Museum of New Zealand

After getting back to the city, we decided to get some lunch. We ended up at a place called Enigma cafe and had some burgers and coffee. Next we headed to the [Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa](https://www.tepapa.govt.nz/). We heard about the museum from our lovely bus driver/guide who said they have a wonderful exhibit put together by Weta Workshop and Peter Jackson called Gallipoli: The Scale of Our War. Of course we had to check it out after seeing all of the cool stuff at Weta Workshop!

[![Front of Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa](/assets/blog/exploring-wellington-new-zealand/IMG_20190206_142245.jpg "Front of Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa")](/assets/blog/exploring-wellington-new-zealand/IMG_20190206_142245.jpg)

The museum is free to get into, with paid entry only into specialty exhibits. Luckily, the
The Gallipoli exhibit was free. Being from America, we do not learn much about foreign war involvement beyond the basics, which made this exhibit super interesting to us. The exhibit described the eight month ANZAC (Australia and New Zealand Army Corps) Gallipoli campaign in Turkey during World War I.

[![Gallipoli exhibit at Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa](/assets/blog/exploring-wellington-new-zealand/IMG_20190206_143644.jpg "Gallipoli exhibit at Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa")](/assets/blog/exploring-wellington-new-zealand/IMG_20190206_143644.jpg)

It tells the story of Gallipoli using the stories of eight ordinary New Zealanders involved in the war. Weta created lifelike sculptures of each of these individuals at 2.4 times human size.

[![Sculpture of a soldier at the Gallipoli exhibit at Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa](/assets/blog/exploring-wellington-new-zealand/IMG_20190206_143753.jpg "Sculpture of a soldier at the Gallipoli exhibit at Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa")](/assets/blog/exploring-wellington-new-zealand/IMG_20190206_143753.jpg)

This exhibit was simply incredible, and also very depressing. In total, 2,779 Kiwis lost their lives on Gallipoli, and the detail of the war and of the eight New Zealanders whose stories were focused on really made you feel the loss of the war.

After finishing the exhibit, we walked down the waterfront. We heard music, and decided to walk towards it! We ended up at Waitangi Park, where there was a free Waitangi Day concert!

[![Wellington Bay](/assets/blog/exploring-wellington-new-zealand/IMG_20190206_163701.jpg "Wellington Bay")](/assets/blog/exploring-wellington-new-zealand/IMG_20190206_163701.jpg)

[![Waitangi Day concert](/assets/blog/exploring-wellington-new-zealand/IMG_20190206_164240.jpg "Waitangi Day concert")](/assets/blog/exploring-wellington-new-zealand/IMG_20190206_164240.jpg)

[Wellington, New Zealand: Waitangi Day](https://www.youtube.com/embed/vet2WZSLCfc)

Next we ended our day in Wellington at Basque rooftop bar for some drinks, and a view of the street where they held the Return of the King premiere!

[![Embassy Theater in Wellington](/assets/blog/exploring-wellington-new-zealand/IMG_20190206_165719.jpg "Embassy Theater in Wellington")](/assets/blog/exploring-wellington-new-zealand/IMG_20190206_165719.jpg)

[![Having some rooftop drinks near Embassy Theater](/assets/blog/exploring-wellington-new-zealand/IMG_20190206_170747.jpg "Having some rooftop drinks near Embassy Theater")](/assets/blog/exploring-wellington-new-zealand/IMG_20190206_170747.jpg)

## Last day in Wellington

We spent the morning of our last day in Wellington... not in Wellington. Gerrod and I decided to get some of our travel vaccinations in New Zealand, and we needed to get our second round of shots! We had to drive to Palmerston North, which is about a 2 hour drive north of Wellington. I will discuss our experience getting vaccinated in New Zealand in a later post!

## Miramar and The Roxy Theatre

After getting our vaccinations, we headed back to Wellington and went to a local cafe recommended by our Airbnb host. The cafe, Scorch-O-Rama, was located in Miramar and had a great view of Scorch Bay.

[![Scorch bay at Miramar](/assets/blog/exploring-wellington-new-zealand/IMG_20190207_133647-PANO.jpg "Scorch bay at Miramar")](/assets/blog/exploring-wellington-new-zealand/IMG_20190207_133647-PANO.jpg)

[![Scorch-O-Rama cafe](/assets/blog/exploring-wellington-new-zealand/IMG_20190207_133757.jpg "Scorch-O-Rama cafe")](/assets/blog/exploring-wellington-new-zealand/IMG_20190207_133757.jpg)

After coffee and lunch at Scorch-O-Rama, Gerrod and I headed to [The Roxy Cinema](https://www.roxycinema.co.nz/) to see Spider-Man: Into the Spider Verse. The movie was awesome, and the Roxy Theatre had a great atmosphere. After the movie, we went back to our Airbnb to prepare for our ferry to the South Island the following day!

[![Gandalf Statue out front of Roxy Cinema](/assets/blog/exploring-wellington-new-zealand/IMG_20190207_151241.jpg "Gandalf Statue out front of Roxy Cinema")](/assets/blog/exploring-wellington-new-zealand/IMG_20190207_151241.jpg)

[![Dobby napkin holder inside Roxy Cinema](/assets/blog/exploring-wellington-new-zealand/IMG_20190207_151355.jpg "Dobby napkin holder inside Roxy Cinema")](/assets/blog/exploring-wellington-new-zealand/IMG_20190207_151355.jpg)

Until next time!

Lauren (and Gerrod)
]]></content:encoded>
            <author>bestseenonfoot@gmail.com (Lauren Schirtzinger)</author>
        </item>
        <item>
            <title><![CDATA[Visiting the Dimholt Road and Rivendell Lord of the Rings Film Locations near Wellington... And Seals!]]></title>
            <link>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/visiting-the-dimholt-road-and-rivendell-lord-of-the-rings-film-locations-near-wellington-and-seals</link>
            <guid>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/visiting-the-dimholt-road-and-rivendell-lord-of-the-rings-film-locations-near-wellington-and-seals</guid>
            <pubDate>Sat, 25 May 2019 17:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
            <description><![CDATA[Hey everyone! Lauren here. We have been very busy and very bad at writing lately. Our last post was nearly 2 months ago...]]></description>
            <content:encoded><![CDATA[
Hey everyone! Lauren here. We have been very busy and very bad at writing lately. Our last post was nearly 2 months ago, and we will likely lag behind until we get back home and do a bit of catching up. We have just been so busy adventuring!

So to begin where we left off, I will tell you about our time visiting two Lord of the Rings filming locations and fur seals near Wellington! We were there around the beginning of February, which is right in the middle of summer so we had amazing and sunny weather!

## Putangirua Pinnacles/Dimholt Road

Our first full day staying in Wellington we drove...out of Wellington. It was a very necessary trip, as it was to visit two filming locations for Lord of the Rings! The first filming location we visited is called the [Putangirua Pinnacles](https://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-recreation/places-to-go/wairarapa/places/putangirua-pinnacles-scenic-reserve/things-to-do/pinnacles-ridge-track/). The Putangirua Pinnacles were used to film a scene in the Return of the King when Aragorn, Legolas, and Gimli take the Dimholt Road to ride to meet the Army of the Dead before the Battle of Pelennor Fields.

It took us about an hour and 45 minutes to drive to the trailhead from our Airbnb in Wellington, but the drive was beautiful which helped pass the time quickly. After parking at the trailhead and lathering on sunscreen since it was so sunny out, we began the hike to the pinnacles!

[![Looking back on Putangirua Pinnacles/Dimholt Road Hike](/assets/blog/visiting-the-dimholt-road-and-rivendell-lord-of-the-rings-film-locations-near-wellington-and-seals/IMG_20190205_131316.jpg "Looking back on Putangirua Pinnacles/Dimholt Road Hike")](/assets/blog/visiting-the-dimholt-road-and-rivendell-lord-of-the-rings-film-locations-near-wellington-and-seals/IMG_20190205_131316.jpg)

### The Hike on the Dimholt Road

Soon we were beginning the hike! The walk to pinnacles was a fairly easy hike along a dry stream bed, but as soon as we got to the actual pinnacles we began an uphill hike on pretty loose rock. Walking on loose rock is by far my least favorite terrain, but we were walking through super cool looking and eroded earth pillars made everything okay.

The pinnacles looked like they were stacks of very loose rock about to fall over at any moment, but apparently they only erode at a rate of 1 cm per year. It was very easy to picture Aragorn, Gimli, and Legolas riding horses between the pinnacles, although we could only guess at the exact place they used to film.

[![Lauren hiking a finger of Putangirua Pinnacles/Dimholt Road Hike](/assets/blog/visiting-the-dimholt-road-and-rivendell-lord-of-the-rings-film-locations-near-wellington-and-seals/IMG_20190205_131840.jpg "Lauren hiking a finger of Putangirua Pinnacles/Dimholt Road Hike")](/assets/blog/visiting-the-dimholt-road-and-rivendell-lord-of-the-rings-film-locations-near-wellington-and-seals/IMG_20190205_131840.jpg)

After walking between the pinnacles for a while, we headed to another section of the trail, which leads to an overlook point. It was very steep, but was a well constructed trail which made it easier than walking on the loose rock.

It was cool to look out over the top of the pinnacles! After snapping a few photos, we headed back to our rental car.

[![Overhead view of Putangirua Pinnacles/Dimholt Road Hike](/assets/blog/visiting-the-dimholt-road-and-rivendell-lord-of-the-rings-film-locations-near-wellington-and-seals/IMG_20190205_135242.jpg "Overhead view of Putangirua Pinnacles/Dimholt Road Hike")](/assets/blog/visiting-the-dimholt-road-and-rivendell-lord-of-the-rings-film-locations-near-wellington-and-seals/IMG_20190205_135242.jpg)

[![Lauren admiring the overhead view of Putangirua Pinnacles/Dimholt Road Hike](/assets/blog/visiting-the-dimholt-road-and-rivendell-lord-of-the-rings-film-locations-near-wellington-and-seals/IMG_20190205_135259.jpg "Lauren admiring the overhead view of Putangirua Pinnacles/Dimholt Road Hike")](/assets/blog/visiting-the-dimholt-road-and-rivendell-lord-of-the-rings-film-locations-near-wellington-and-seals/IMG_20190205_135259.jpg)

[Putangirua Pinnacles Hike: Dimholt Road](https://www.youtube.com/embed/Dxabz7PkBYY)

## Seal Colony at Cape Palliser

After finishing the hike, we drove further east around the North Island's coast to the Cape Palliser Seal Colony. The fur seal colony at the cape is the North Island's largest, which is good because I think seals are awesome.

[![A view of Cape Palliser](/assets/blog/visiting-the-dimholt-road-and-rivendell-lord-of-the-rings-film-locations-near-wellington-and-seals/IMG_20190205_150518.jpg "A view of Cape Palliser")](/assets/blog/visiting-the-dimholt-road-and-rivendell-lord-of-the-rings-film-locations-near-wellington-and-seals/IMG_20190205_150518.jpg)

There were so many seals sleeping on rocks at the shore, and many swimming circles in the water. It was very windy, but we could still hear outrageously loud, and... interesting? sounds coming from the seals.

[![Water crashing on the coast of Cape Palliser](/assets/blog/visiting-the-dimholt-road-and-rivendell-lord-of-the-rings-film-locations-near-wellington-and-seals/IMG_20190205_151345_1.jpg "Water crashing on the coast of Cape Palliser")](/assets/blog/visiting-the-dimholt-road-and-rivendell-lord-of-the-rings-film-locations-near-wellington-and-seals/IMG_20190205_151345_1.jpg)

Based on research I did on the seals (yeah, nature nerd here), the breeding season is from mid-November to mid-January. This was very apparent because we saw many pups hanging out at the cape!

[Seal Colony at Matakitaki-a-kupe Reserve](https://www.youtube.com/embed/xS8SfqrjydI)

## Rivendell (Kaitoke Regional Park)

After hanging out and admiring the seals for a while, we began our drive back towards Wellington. On our way back, we made a very necessary stop at [Kaitoke Regional Park](https://www.gw.govt.nz/parks/kaitoke-regional-park/).
This park was used for Rivendell in the Lord of the Rings movies! The park is pretty big, and the actual location is at the Pakuratahi Forks car park, which is fairly deep into the park. Luckily, there are several signs that literally say Rivendell leading to the correct car park.

[![Some informational signs about Kaitoke Regional Park aka Rivendell](/assets/blog/visiting-the-dimholt-road-and-rivendell-lord-of-the-rings-film-locations-near-wellington-and-seals/IMG_20190205_171411.jpg "Some informational signs about Kaitoke Regional Park aka Rivendell")](/assets/blog/visiting-the-dimholt-road-and-rivendell-lord-of-the-rings-film-locations-near-wellington-and-seals/IMG_20190205_171411.jpg)

[![Head shots of the Fellowship near Kaitoke Regional Park aka Rivendell](/assets/blog/visiting-the-dimholt-road-and-rivendell-lord-of-the-rings-film-locations-near-wellington-and-seals/IMG_20190205_172153.jpg "Head shots of the Fellowship near Kaitoke Regional Park aka Rivendell")](/assets/blog/visiting-the-dimholt-road-and-rivendell-lord-of-the-rings-film-locations-near-wellington-and-seals/IMG_20190205_172153.jpg)

The walk from the car park was very short, and there were several signs leading the way. I'm thankful there were signs, as we would have never been able to find the right place without them! None of the set remains except for one Rivendell-esque replica elvish archway that was added to the park as a memorabilia, and the forest has grown up quite a bit since the movie was filmed.

[![A map of Kaitoke Regional Park aka Rivendell](/assets/blog/visiting-the-dimholt-road-and-rivendell-lord-of-the-rings-film-locations-near-wellington-and-seals/IMG_20190205_172222.jpg "A map of Kaitoke Regional Park aka Rivendell")](/assets/blog/visiting-the-dimholt-road-and-rivendell-lord-of-the-rings-film-locations-near-wellington-and-seals/IMG_20190205_172222.jpg)

We had to use our imagination to get ourselves to Rivendell, but the cicadas were super loud which didn't make it easy. I highly doubt there were cicadas in Rivendell. There were also a few signs on the short loop walk which had a map of the original set, and Gerrod and I took time to try to find recognizable trees or stumps in the area.

[![A path thru Kaitoke Regional Park aka Rivendell](/assets/blog/visiting-the-dimholt-road-and-rivendell-lord-of-the-rings-film-locations-near-wellington-and-seals/IMG_20190205_172833.jpg "A path thru Kaitoke Regional Park aka Rivendell")](/assets/blog/visiting-the-dimholt-road-and-rivendell-lord-of-the-rings-film-locations-near-wellington-and-seals/IMG_20190205_172833.jpg)

After exploring Rivendell, and a quick photo shoot near the archway, we headed back towards our car.

[![Entryway to Rivendell at Kaitoke Regional Park](/assets/blog/visiting-the-dimholt-road-and-rivendell-lord-of-the-rings-film-locations-near-wellington-and-seals/IMG_20190205_173436.jpg "Entryway to Rivendell at Kaitoke Regional Park")](/assets/blog/visiting-the-dimholt-road-and-rivendell-lord-of-the-rings-film-locations-near-wellington-and-seals/IMG_20190205_173436.jpg)

[![Gerrod and Lauren taking pictures of the gate at Kaitoke Regional Park aka Rivendell](/assets/blog/visiting-the-dimholt-road-and-rivendell-lord-of-the-rings-film-locations-near-wellington-and-seals/IMG_20190205_173519.jpg "Gerrod and Lauren taking pictures of the gate at Kaitoke Regional Park aka Rivendell")](/assets/blog/visiting-the-dimholt-road-and-rivendell-lord-of-the-rings-film-locations-near-wellington-and-seals/IMG_20190205_173519.jpg)

[Rivendell!](https://www.youtube.com/embed/2C0RYiUKBsM)

### Loop Walk in Kaitoke Park

[![Lauren makes the crossing at Swing Bridge Loop Track](/assets/blog/visiting-the-dimholt-road-and-rivendell-lord-of-the-rings-film-locations-near-wellington-and-seals/IMG_20190205_174037.jpg "Lauren makes the crossing at Swing Bridge Loop Track")](/assets/blog/visiting-the-dimholt-road-and-rivendell-lord-of-the-rings-film-locations-near-wellington-and-seals/IMG_20190205_174037.jpg)

Since it only took us about half an hour to explore Rivendell, we decided to do the loop walk which was right near the Pakuratahi Forks car park. The walk began with a swing bridge across the river, and was just a quick loop. There were several signs around the trail with information about the New Zealand rainforest environment, which I loved because of nature and stuff. The walk only took 15-30 minutes, and was a great way to learn about the forest habitat without harassing google.

[![Canopy at Swing Bridge Loop Track](/assets/blog/visiting-the-dimholt-road-and-rivendell-lord-of-the-rings-film-locations-near-wellington-and-seals/IMG_20190205_174242.jpg "Canopy at Swing Bridge Loop Track")](/assets/blog/visiting-the-dimholt-road-and-rivendell-lord-of-the-rings-film-locations-near-wellington-and-seals/IMG_20190205_174242.jpg)

[![Path at Swing Bridge Loop Track](/assets/blog/visiting-the-dimholt-road-and-rivendell-lord-of-the-rings-film-locations-near-wellington-and-seals/IMG_20190205_174245.jpg "Path at Swing Bridge Loop Track")](/assets/blog/visiting-the-dimholt-road-and-rivendell-lord-of-the-rings-film-locations-near-wellington-and-seals/IMG_20190205_174245.jpg)

[![Lauren admiring trees at Swing Bridge Loop Track](/assets/blog/visiting-the-dimholt-road-and-rivendell-lord-of-the-rings-film-locations-near-wellington-and-seals/IMG_20190205_174314.jpg "Lauren admiring trees at Swing Bridge Loop Track")](/assets/blog/visiting-the-dimholt-road-and-rivendell-lord-of-the-rings-film-locations-near-wellington-and-seals/IMG_20190205_174314.jpg)

[Swing Bridge Loop Track Near Rivendell](https://www.youtube.com/embed/pXrj6Ja5OJ0)

## Back to the Airbnb

After our stop at Kaitoke Regional Park, we headed back to Wellington! We stopped at New World to get groceries for dinner on our way home since we are on a budget. We made steak and rice for dinner and shared a bottle of wine, which made us feel fancy.

Until next time!

Lauren (and Gerrod)
]]></content:encoded>
            <author>bestseenonfoot@gmail.com (Lauren Schirtzinger)</author>
        </item>
        <item>
            <title><![CDATA[Wine and Good Company in Hawke's Bay]]></title>
            <link>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/wine-and-good-company-in-hawkes-bay</link>
            <guid>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/wine-and-good-company-in-hawkes-bay</guid>
            <pubDate>Sun, 31 Mar 2019 17:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
            <description><![CDATA[Hey everyone! Lauren here to tell you about our time in Hawke's Bay...]]></description>
            <content:encoded><![CDATA[
Hey everyone! Lauren here to tell you about our time in Hawke's Bay. We originally weren't planning on going to Hawke's Bay, but after meeting a couple on our [Salkantay Trek](/posts/salkantay-trek-with-salkantay-trekking) in Peru from the Hawke's Bay area, we decided to check it out!

## To Our Airbnb

The drive from our Airbnb in Turangi to Hawke's Bay was pretty uneventful. As with the rest of New Zealand, the scenery was amazing. We even stopped at a viewpoint for Lake Taupo to take a picture of the gorgeous lake views!

[![Lake Taupo](/assets/blog/wine-and-good-company-in-hawkes-bay/IMG_20190202_115536.jpg "Lake Taupo")](/assets/blog/wine-and-good-company-in-hawkes-bay/IMG_20190202_115536.jpg)

[Throwing Floating Rocks into Lake Taupo](https://www.youtube.com/embed/nTcXMqJHLDI)

[Lake Taupo View](https://www.youtube.com/embed/yNBtjWend9A)

The drive took about 3 hours, and soon we were pulling into the driveway of our next Airbnb in the Hawke's Bay area! The driveway was surrounded by apple trees, and at first we thought it may be an orchard. But as we followed our place back it seemed to be behind the orchard.

Our Airbnb was so nice! They had a separate bedroom and bathroom off of the garage so it felt like we had our own little place. With such a nice room, we had a relaxing evening, and decided to call it a night early to prepare ourselves for the next day.

## Wine and More Wine

Hawke's Bay is known for its wine, so of course the next day we had to go to some wineries!

## Church Road

First, we went to a winery called Church Road. Our Airbnb host said that a sommelier came and stayed with her and after going to every single winery in the area, determined Church Road was the best.

[![Church Road Winery](/assets/blog/wine-and-good-company-in-hawkes-bay/IMG_20190203_111214.jpg "Church Road Winery")](/assets/blog/wine-and-good-company-in-hawkes-bay/IMG_20190203_111214.jpg)

The tasting at Church Road consisted of 4 wines each. There were three different levels of tastings. I opted to do the Innovation tasting, which ws 10 NZD and consisted of unique wine varieties. Gerrod did the Prestige or reserve wine tasting, which was 15 NZD.

[![Deeper into Church Road Winery](/assets/blog/wine-and-good-company-in-hawkes-bay/IMG_20190203_113956.jpg "Deeper into Church Road Winery")](/assets/blog/wine-and-good-company-in-hawkes-bay/IMG_20190203_113956.jpg)

All of the wine was absolutely fantastic. I ended up getting a bottle of the Church Road Gwen Rose to take home, which waived my tasting fee!

## Mission Estate

Next we went to Mission Estate Winery, which was just down the road from Church Road. As we pulled in, we noticed they were setting up for what seemed to be a big event.

[![Back Seating area of Mission Estate Winery](/assets/blog/wine-and-good-company-in-hawkes-bay/IMG_20190203_114857.jpg "Back Seating area of Mission Estate Winery")](/assets/blog/wine-and-good-company-in-hawkes-bay/IMG_20190203_114857.jpg)

In the winery, we requested a tasting. We asked for two tastings, and I jokingly said that I think Gerrod probably doesn't want wine so just one tasting. My sarcasm went right over the Mission Estate employee's head, which led to an embarrassing start to our tasting.

[![Gerrod and Lauren looking over the grape fields of Mission Estate Winery](/assets/blog/wine-and-good-company-in-hawkes-bay/IMG_20190203_122538.jpg "Gerrod and Lauren looking over the grape fields of Mission Estate Winery")](/assets/blog/wine-and-good-company-in-hawkes-bay/IMG_20190203_122538.jpg)

The tasting consisted of 6 different wines each, for 6 NZD per person. The tasting came with a cool stemless wine glass, but since we were traveling and didn't want to carry glass around, they said we could donate our wine glasses; we opted to do that.

The wine was good, but definitely was mid grade compared to the wine at Church Road. While we were tasting the wines, we asked about the event set up, and it turns out there was going to be a huge Phil Collins concert in a few days! Too bad we missed it.

## Dinner with the Kiwis

We contacted the New Zealand couple that we met on our trek in Peru, and made plans to have dinner together while we were in the area! We decided to meet up and have dinner at their place in Hastings.

After chilling a bit following our wine tastings, we headed to their house in Hastings around 6pm for dinner. You meet so many great people while traveling, it was amazing getting to catch up with them. Especially over dinner and drinks!

## Te Mata Peak

[![Sign explaining Te Mata Peak](/assets/blog/wine-and-good-company-in-hawkes-bay/IMG_20190204_114507.jpg "Sign explaining Te Mata Peak")](/assets/blog/wine-and-good-company-in-hawkes-bay/IMG_20190204_114507.jpg)

The next day, we packed our things and prepared for our drive to our next destination: Wellington. We decided before we hit the road, we wanted to explore a bit of the area, so at the suggestion of our Airbnb host we went to Te Mata Peak near hastings.

[![A Hang glider above Te Mata Peak](/assets/blog/wine-and-good-company-in-hawkes-bay/IMG_20190204_120108.jpg "A Hang glider above Te Mata Peak")](/assets/blog/wine-and-good-company-in-hawkes-bay/IMG_20190204_120108.jpg)

[![Gerrod and Lauren at Te Mata Peak](/assets/blog/wine-and-good-company-in-hawkes-bay/IMG_20190204_120420.jpg "Gerrod and Lauren at Te Mata Peak")](/assets/blog/wine-and-good-company-in-hawkes-bay/IMG_20190204_120420.jpg)

We thought about hiking to the top of the peak, but ultimately just drove to the top to save time. The view was incredible! The surrounding landscape was beautiful, and there were signs about a Maori legend regarding the peak. There were even people paragliding around the peaks! While enjoying the view, we saw what looked like a cool winery down below us.

[![Panoramic view from atop Te Mata Peak](/assets/blog/wine-and-good-company-in-hawkes-bay/IMG_20190204_120045-PANO.jpg "Panoramic view from atop Te Mata Peak")](/assets/blog/wine-and-good-company-in-hawkes-bay/IMG_20190204_120045-PANO.jpg)

[Te Mata Peak](https://www.youtube.com/embed/mVdFAA5IosM)

After consulting Maps.ME and the internet, we decided to drive down to it and check it out in person.

## More Wine

[![Craggy Range Winery](/assets/blog/wine-and-good-company-in-hawkes-bay/IMG_20190204_122948.jpg "Craggy Range Winery")](/assets/blog/wine-and-good-company-in-hawkes-bay/IMG_20190204_122948.jpg)

The winery below us was called Craggy Range. The winery property was beautiful, and you could look up and see Te Mata Peak! The tasting was 10 NZD for 5 different wines. The wine was delicious, and we were even given a 6th bonus wine to taste! I decided to buy a bottle of the Pinot Gris to enjoy later, so my tasting fee was waived!

[![The grape fields of Craggy Range Winery](/assets/blog/wine-and-good-company-in-hawkes-bay/IMG_20190204_132223.jpg "The grape fields of Craggy Range Winery")](/assets/blog/wine-and-good-company-in-hawkes-bay/IMG_20190204_132223.jpg)

## To Wellington We Go

After buying the bottle of wine, we made the long drive to Wellington, only stopping for lunch in a small town along the way. Our Airbnb was a little outside of the city, and we had a little difficulty finding it due to many one way streets, weird turns, and steep hills!

Eventually we made it, and were greeted by one of our hosts and given a grand tour! Gerrod and I settled in, and headed out to find some dinner. After enjoying some mediocre Chinese takeout for dinner and chatting with our hosts, we headed to bed to prepare for a busy day exploring more Lord of the Rings filming locations outside of Wellington!

Until next time!

Lauren (and Gerrod)
]]></content:encoded>
            <author>bestseenonfoot@gmail.com (Lauren Schirtzinger)</author>
        </item>
        <item>
            <title><![CDATA[Exploring Tongariro National Park]]></title>
            <link>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/exploring-tongariro-national-park</link>
            <guid>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/exploring-tongariro-national-park</guid>
            <pubDate>Fri, 29 Mar 2019 17:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
            <description><![CDATA[Hey everyone! Lauren here to tell you about our time in the Tongariro National Park...]]></description>
            <content:encoded><![CDATA[
Hey everyone! Lauren here to tell you about our time in the Tongariro National Park. Most of what we did was go to various Lord of the Rings filming locations, since we are both such big fans of the movies. In one day, we visited three filming locations around Tongariro. We even had time to hike around the beautiful Taranaki Falls and have high tea at the Chateau Tongariro!

## Tawhai Falls/Gollum's Pool

We began our day with a stop by Tawhai Falls. The falls are also known as Gollum's Pool, since this is where he sings his “catch a fish” song in The Two Towers!! The walk is very short and easy, and it took us maybe 5-10 minutes to get to the waterfall.

[![Tawhai Falls: Gollum's Pool Time Lapse](/assets/blog/exploring-tongariro-national-park/IMG_8742~2.JPG "Tawhai Falls: Gollum's Pool Time Lapse")](/assets/blog/exploring-tongariro-national-park/IMG_8742~2.JPG)

[![Tawhai Falls: Gollum's Pool](/assets/blog/exploring-tongariro-national-park/IMG_8749.JPG "Tawhai Falls: Gollum's Pool")](/assets/blog/exploring-tongariro-national-park/IMG_8749.JPG)

The waterfall is beautiful! I spent time practicing how to get “the perfect waterfall picture,” since there weren’t many people at the falls. Tawhai Falls is only 13 meters high, which I thought looked much taller in the movie! The filming crew definitely took advantage of the filming angle when the scene was filmed, but you could definitely picture it! Apparently you are even allowed to swim in the water, but it was freezing.

[Tawhai Falls: Gollum's Pool](https://www.youtube.com/embed/hkSU3zwrGnY)

## Whakapapa Ski Resort/Mordor

Next, we headed to Mordor. Many of the Mordor scenes were filmed in the Whakapapa Ski Resort. Our Airbnb host Keith told us they were doing construction and many of the trails would be closed, but we decided to check it out anyway.

[![A view near Whakapapa Skifield: Mordor](/assets/blog/exploring-tongariro-national-park/IMG_20190201_121428.jpg "A view near Whakapapa Skifield: Mordor")](/assets/blog/exploring-tongariro-national-park/IMG_20190201_121428.jpg)

The Whakapapa Ski Resort is right under Mt Ruapehu, which is the largest active volcano in New Zealand! There was definitely construction, but they had a few detour walks open around the resort! We did the detour walk around Mead’s Wall, which luckily for us is where many of the Mordor scenes were filmed!

There wasn’t really a strict trail to follow, but there were markers set up which went near some of the ski lifts. The entire walk you could picture Mordor! The scenery was incredible, and we were the only people that decided to do the walk, so we had the trail to ourselves.

[![More rocks near Whakapapa Skifield: Mordor](/assets/blog/exploring-tongariro-national-park/IMG_20190201_122633.jpg "More rocks near Whakapapa Skifield: Mordor")](/assets/blog/exploring-tongariro-national-park/IMG_20190201_122633.jpg)

I’m sure it was greener and less scary than being in the real Mordor.

[Whakapapa Skifield: Mordor](https://www.youtube.com/embed/YcGlDfqyRD4)

## Taranaki Falls

After exploring Mordor, we headed to the Tongariro National Park visitors center. There, we found a short to moderate length trail for Taranaki Falls. The trail was within walking distance of the visitors center, and Gerrod and I decided to check it out!

[![Taranaki Falls](/assets/blog/exploring-tongariro-national-park/IMG_20190201_140143.jpg "Taranaki Falls")](/assets/blog/exploring-tongariro-national-park/IMG_20190201_140143.jpg)

The hike took us about 2 hours, and the mountain and river views along the hike were incredible. Taranaki Falls were very high, and you could even look down the falls from the top!

[Taranaki Falls](https://www.youtube.com/embed/zmiX0y9aE10)

## High Tea

After our hike at Taranaki Falls, Gerrod and I decided to have high tea at [Chateau Tongariro](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chateau_Tongariro), as suggested by our Airbnb host. We weren’t quite sure where high tea was, so we accidentally went to a totally different cafe before realizing they had no high tea on the menu.

[![Lauren and Gerrod enjoying Chateau Tongariro High Tea](/assets/blog/exploring-tongariro-national-park/IMG_20190201_154733.jpg "Lauren and Gerrod enjoying Chateau Tongariro High Tea")](/assets/blog/exploring-tongariro-national-park/IMG_20190201_154733.jpg)

Eventually we found our way to the Ruapehu Lounge, and asked at the lounge bar about high tea. Online, it suggested booking ahead, but it didn’t seem too busy. Luckily, we were in the right place, and were soon led to a fancy table in front of a big window with a beautiful view of Mt. Ngauruhoe, aka Mt. Doom!

[![Chateau Tongariro High Tea with Mt. Doom in View](/assets/blog/exploring-tongariro-national-park/IMG_20190201_154212.jpg "Chateau Tongariro High Tea with Mt. Doom in View")](/assets/blog/exploring-tongariro-national-park/IMG_20190201_154212.jpg)

High tea was 32 NZD per person, and came with finger foods and desserts, and an entire pot of tea each. I ordered a black tea called Paris Black, and Gerrod had a white tea called Chinese Silver Needle. Both teas and all of the various foods were delicious, and we both definitely felt super fancy (and maybe a little out of place).

[Chateau Tongariro High Tea](https://www.youtube.com/embed/8Wu9c_80XWQ)

## Mangawhero Falls

After our high tea, we headed south to see more of the park and see another Lord of the Rings filming location. The last location we planned to visit was called Mangawhero Falls, and was near a town called Ohakune. The Mangawhero Falls was a short walk, and this filming location was very easy to picture.

[![Mangawhero Falls: Gollum's Fishing Falls](/assets/blog/exploring-tongariro-national-park/IMG_8868~2.JPG "Mangawhero Falls: Gollum's Fishing Falls")](/assets/blog/exploring-tongariro-national-park/IMG_8868~2.JPG)

[![Gerrod admiring Mangawhero Falls: Gollum's Fishing Falls](/assets/blog/exploring-tongariro-national-park/IMG_8879~2.JPG "Gerrod admiring Mangawhero Falls: Gollum's Fishing Falls")](/assets/blog/exploring-tongariro-national-park/IMG_8879~2.JPG)

Just upstream from the falls is the actual filming location in the Mangawhero River. It is the scene where Gollum slips and slides through the stream in Ithilien while trying to catch a fish. We both remembered the scene from the movie very clearly, since it was featured in the appendices. Andy Serkis, the actor that plays Gollum nearly slid off the waterfall every take while filming the scene!

[Mangawhero Falls: Gollum's Fishing Falls](https://www.youtube.com/embed/sx4Y0ggBGWo)

## End of the Day

After seeing Mangawhero Falls, we headed back to Turangi. By the time we got there it was nearly 6pm and we were both so hungry! We stopped to get some dinner at a local restaurant before heading back to our Airbnb.

Tongariro National Park is absolutely beautiful. There are definitely many more trails and sites to see in the area, including one of New Zealand’s great walks. Since Gerrod and I are both big fans of Lord of the Rings, it was incredible to see the filming locations up close. Middle Earth… errr I mean New Zealand is beautiful!

Until next time!

Lauren (and Gerrod)
]]></content:encoded>
            <author>bestseenonfoot@gmail.com (Lauren Schirtzinger)</author>
        </item>
        <item>
            <title><![CDATA[Hiking the Tongariro Alpine Crossing]]></title>
            <link>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/hiking-the-tongariro-alpine-crossing</link>
            <guid>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/hiking-the-tongariro-alpine-crossing</guid>
            <pubDate>Tue, 26 Mar 2019 17:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
            <description><![CDATA[Hey everyone! Lauren here to tell you about our experience hiking the Tongariro Alpine Crossing...]]></description>
            <content:encoded><![CDATA[
Hey everyone! Lauren here to tell you about our experience hiking the Tongariro Alpine Crossing! The hike is considered New Zealand’s best day hike, and in my opinion, it definitely deserves the title.

## Getting to the Trailhead

The hike is one way, with most people taking a shuttle to the beginning of the trail, and getting picked up at the end. However, our Airbnb host Keith kindly offered to drive us to the trailhead and pick us up from the end of the trail! So after an early 6:30 am breakfast we were on our way!

The drive from our Airbnb was pretty short, with the drive only taking about 40 minutes. On the way to the trailhead at the Mangatepopo parking area, Keith stopped to show us a great view of Lake Taupo.

[![View of Lake Taupo](/assets/blog/hiking-the-tongariro-alpine-crossing/IMG_20190131_073225.jpg "View of Lake Taupo")](/assets/blog/hiking-the-tongariro-alpine-crossing/IMG_20190131_073225.jpg)

While Gerrod and I were preparing for our hike at the trailhead, Keith chatted with the parking lot guard dude. He mentioned that there weren’t too many people on the trail since there had been so many nice days! Nice!

[![Info sign about different hikes in the area](/assets/blog/hiking-the-tongariro-alpine-crossing/IMG_20190131_082034.jpg "Info sign about different hikes in the area")](/assets/blog/hiking-the-tongariro-alpine-crossing/IMG_20190131_082034.jpg)

[![Info for Tongariro Alpine Crossing](/assets/blog/hiking-the-tongariro-alpine-crossing/IMG_20190131_082047.jpg "Info for Tongariro Alpine Crossing")](/assets/blog/hiking-the-tongariro-alpine-crossing/IMG_20190131_082047.jpg)

[![Map of Tongariro Alpine Crossing Trek](/assets/blog/hiking-the-tongariro-alpine-crossing/IMG_20190131_082108.jpg "Map of Tongariro Alpine Crossing Trek")](/assets/blog/hiking-the-tongariro-alpine-crossing/IMG_20190131_082108.jpg)

## Soda Springs

The beginning of the hike was pretty flat and easy. About 1.5km along the trail, there was a turn off for Soda Springs, so we decided to check it out! The springs weren’t too far from the main trail, and consisted of a small cascading waterfall. Since it was a spring we were curious if we could drink it, but neither of us were brave enough to try! After snapping our pictures, we continued on the trail.

[![Soda Springs](/assets/blog/hiking-the-tongariro-alpine-crossing/IMG_20190131_093031.jpg "Soda Springs")](/assets/blog/hiking-the-tongariro-alpine-crossing/IMG_20190131_093031.jpg)

## The Devil’s Staircase

[![Plains leading up to the mountain](/assets/blog/hiking-the-tongariro-alpine-crossing/IMG_20190131_085659.jpg "Plains leading up to the mountain")](/assets/blog/hiking-the-tongariro-alpine-crossing/IMG_20190131_085659.jpg)

Not too far after Soda Springs starts a section of trail called the Devil’s Staircase. As you can imagine, this section of the trail is very steep! There were even warning signs at the beginning of this section saying that people who are not in shape should turn back. It was definitely steep, but the trail was in good condition making it a little bit easier than it could be.

[![Rocky portion of the hike before the mountain](/assets/blog/hiking-the-tongariro-alpine-crossing/IMG_20190131_100454.jpg "Rocky portion of the hike before the mountain")](/assets/blog/hiking-the-tongariro-alpine-crossing/IMG_20190131_100454.jpg)

## Casting the One Ring into Mount Doom (Mt. Ngauruhoe)

To make things harder on ourselves, we decided to hike to the top of Mt. Ngauruhoe. This is the mountain that was featured as distance shots of Mount Doom in the Lord of the Rings movies! There isn’t really a trail to the top, you just walk to the top and hope for the best.

[![Mount Doom (Mt. Ngauruhoe) in the distance at the start of the hike](/assets/blog/hiking-the-tongariro-alpine-crossing/IMG_8683.JPG "Mount Doom (Mt. Ngauruhoe) in the distance at the start of the hike")](/assets/blog/hiking-the-tongariro-alpine-crossing/IMG_8683.JPG)

The hike to the top was SOOO HARD! It took us 2 hours to hike a mere 2.5km. Not only was it very steep, but the trail is almost entirely loose volcanic rock. The portions of the “trail” that aren’t loose rock are sharp and steep big boulders. To make things worse, when we were nearly to the top we heard a weird thundering sound. Since the weather was still good we weren’t sure whether it was volcanic activity or a landslide. Either way, neither of these are very exciting when you are standing on a loose rock volcano.

Despite the scary sound, we continued to the top. The top definitely made the hike worth it! There was a big colorful crater, and it almost felt like you were on another planet. Of course we pretend to throw the ring into the summit, as any good fan would do. The way back down was much easier, as we rock “skied” the entire way. It only took us an hour before we were back on the trail!

[![Mount Doom (Mt. Ngauruhoe) Summit](/assets/blog/hiking-the-tongariro-alpine-crossing/IMG_8671~2.JPG "Mount Doom (Mt. Ngauruhoe) Summit")](/assets/blog/hiking-the-tongariro-alpine-crossing/IMG_8671~2.JPG)

[![Another view of the summit of Mount Doom (Mt. Ngauruhoe)](/assets/blog/hiking-the-tongariro-alpine-crossing/IMG_8687~2.JPG "Another view of the summit of Mount Doom (Mt. Ngauruhoe)")](/assets/blog/hiking-the-tongariro-alpine-crossing/IMG_8687~2.JPG)

## Continuing the Hike

We continued on the normal hike. There was a little bit more of the steep Devil’s Staircase portion of the hike, but the view from the top made it worth it. First we saw the Red Crater, which was super cool and colorful. From the Red Crater, there was a beautiful view of the surrounding mountains and the Emerald Lakes below us.

Hiking down to the Emerald Lakes was very steep and was loose rock and gravel. I actually thought this portion of the trail was more difficult than going down Mt. Ngauruhoe. Near the Emerald Lakes, there is visible steam from geothermal activity with the classic rotten egg smell.

[![Emerald Lakes and Blue Lake](/assets/blog/hiking-the-tongariro-alpine-crossing/IMG_8705~2.JPG "Emerald Lakes and Blue Lake")](/assets/blog/hiking-the-tongariro-alpine-crossing/IMG_8705~2.JPG)

After the Emerald Lakes, you walk through a valley before one last hill up to Blue Lake.

## Hiking Back Down

Right after Blue Lake, there was a view of Lake Taupo in the distance. We enjoyed the view before beginning our hike back down. The hike down went on, and on, and on, and on…. The views were definitely incredible, but after adding on the extra hike to the top of Mt. Ruapehu, our feet were definitely sore.

[![Flat section of the hike](/assets/blog/hiking-the-tongariro-alpine-crossing/IMG_8715~2.JPG "Flat section of the hike")](/assets/blog/hiking-the-tongariro-alpine-crossing/IMG_8715~2.JPG)

After hiking down for what felt like forever, we got to Ketetahi Hut. At Ketetahi Hut, we called Keith to come get us, since from there it would be about an hour down to the end of the trail at the Ketetahi parking lot.

As we continued down, we hiked through woods and crossed a few bridges before finally… the end! According to my Garmin watch, we walked 14.82 miles or almost 24km!

## Yay We’re Done

Keith was waiting for us in the parking lot. On our ride back, he stopped next to a river walk to show us a cool swing bridge. The swing bridge is called Red Hut and there was a man jumping off the bridge into the river! It seemed so high and scary, but he said it was deep enough and didn’t seem to get injured. The river was beautiful, and was a nice way to end our day.

The Tongariro Alpine Crossing was an outstanding, beautiful, and challenging day hike. It was definitely a highlight for me of our time on the North Island!

[Tongariro Alpine Crossing](https://www.youtube.com/embed/GJoGXhma-9I)

Until next time!

Lauren (and Gerrod)
]]></content:encoded>
            <author>bestseenonfoot@gmail.com (Lauren Schirtzinger)</author>
        </item>
        <item>
            <title><![CDATA[Hobbiton: An Unexpected Adventure]]></title>
            <link>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/hobbiton-an-unexpected-adventure</link>
            <guid>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/hobbiton-an-unexpected-adventure</guid>
            <pubDate>Sun, 24 Mar 2019 17:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
            <description><![CDATA[Hey everyone! Lauren here to tell you about our time exploring the Hobbiton movie set...]]></description>
            <content:encoded><![CDATA[
Hey everyone! Lauren here to tell you about our time exploring the Hobbiton movie set!

## Some Background Things

Gerrod and I are both big fans of Lord of the Rings, and we were really looking forward to seeing The Shire in person. Since [Hobbiton](https://www.hobbitontours.com/) is one of the most popular Lord of the Rings filming locations to see, booking ahead is essential if you are on a timeline.

We actually originally wanted to visit Hobbiton before going to Rotorua, but Gerrod and I decided to do the Hobbiton Movie Set Tour and Meal Combo because we thought eating lunch at Hobbiton would be super cool, and it was completely sold out for several days!

## We are Never Late, We Arrive Precisely When We Mean to

Hobbiton is in a town called Matamata, which according to Google is about an hour and a half drive from where we were staying south of Rotorua. Since our tour departed at 9:50, Gerrod and I woke up early to pack up and get on the road. While we were getting ready, we got into a conversation with one of our Airbnb hosts, and ended up leaving a little later than we wanted to.

According to the ticket information, we had to check into The Shire's Rest ticketing center no later than 15 minutes before the tour, and we were already pushing it. On top of that it said if you hadn't checked in at least 5 minutes before then you couldn’t go on the tour! We were going as quickly as we could to get there, but we kept getting stuck in road construction or behind a slow vehicle.

We ended up speeding a bit and arriving about 7 minutes before our tour. But Gerrod still had to find a place to park!

## Crisis Averted

I hopped out and ran to the ticket office, which included getting yelled at for “not being allowed to get out here”. When I got to the check in, they said it was too late for us to go on our tour and we had to look for alternative tour options. I argued and said it was exactly 5 minutes until our tour departed. Of course they came back with the fact that both of us had to be present and since it was too late we couldn’t go on our tour! Luckily, Gerrod walked in as this was being said, and we got to go on our tour!

## Getting to Hobbiton

The tour started with a bus ride from The Shire’s Rest Cafe to the Hobbiton entrance! On the bus, we watched a video with some background information on how the site ended up being used as the filming location.

According to the film, it all started in 1998, when Peter Jackson’s team of location scouts were searching for the perfect Hobbiton location. They were looking for “iconic rolling hills and lush green pastures”, and a helicopter search led them to the Alexander farm. The farm is a 1,250 acre sheep farm, but one particular area of the farm with a pine tree and small lake is what sold Peter Jackson, and is now Hobbiton!

For Lord of the Rings, 39 temporary Hobbit Holes were constructed in a 12 acre area near the lake. Since they were constructed of temporary materials, after the filming of Lord of the Rings, the set was demolished!

Luckily for us, Peter Jackson and his crew decided to make Hobbiton permanent when it came time to film The Hobbit in 2011. This time they built 44 hobbit holes of more permanent materials, and have real landscaping all around.

[![Map of Hobbiton](/assets/blog/hobbiton-an-unexpected-adventure/IMG_20190130_073420.jpg "Map of Hobbiton")](/assets/blog/hobbiton-an-unexpected-adventure/IMG_20190130_073420.jpg)

## Walking Around The Shire

Hobbiton looks as good in person as it does in the movies. The attention to detail is incredible, with each hobbit hole having its own characteristics. They have small hobbit holes, and bigger versions, which they used for various characters depending on how tall they were supposed to be in the films. For example, Gandalf would stand next to the small ones to seem big, while the rest of the hobbits would be next to the larger hobbit holes.

[![Hobbit hole at the entrance of hobbiton](/assets/blog/hobbiton-an-unexpected-adventure/IMG_20190129_100432.jpg "Hobbit hole at the entrance of hobbiton")](/assets/blog/hobbiton-an-unexpected-adventure/IMG_20190129_100432.jpg)

[![A view from the entrance of hobbiton](/assets/blog/hobbiton-an-unexpected-adventure/IMG_20190129_100607.jpg "A view from the entrance of hobbiton")](/assets/blog/hobbiton-an-unexpected-adventure/IMG_20190129_100607.jpg)

[![Another hobbit hole with a chess set](/assets/blog/hobbiton-an-unexpected-adventure/IMG_20190129_101328.jpg "Another hobbit hole with a chess set")](/assets/blog/hobbiton-an-unexpected-adventure/IMG_20190129_101328.jpg)

[![Lauren at a wood chopping spot for scale](/assets/blog/hobbiton-an-unexpected-adventure/IMG_20190129_102748.jpg "Lauren at a wood chopping spot for scale")](/assets/blog/hobbiton-an-unexpected-adventure/IMG_20190129_102748.jpg)

[![Gerrod and Lauren at Hobbiton](/assets/blog/hobbiton-an-unexpected-adventure/IMG_20190129_103615.jpg "Gerrod and Lauren at Hobbiton")](/assets/blog/hobbiton-an-unexpected-adventure/IMG_20190129_103615.jpg)

We started from the lower portions of The Shire, and worked our way towards Bag End. There is only one hobbit hole you can go into, and there isn’t anything inside! At Bag End, we had time to each get our picture, before we headed back down to see the party field and some more hobbit holes, including Sam’s house!

[![Bag End](/assets/blog/hobbiton-an-unexpected-adventure/IMG_20190129_104402.jpg "Bag End")](/assets/blog/hobbiton-an-unexpected-adventure/IMG_20190129_104402.jpg)

[![Hobbiton road sign](/assets/blog/hobbiton-an-unexpected-adventure/IMG_20190129_110513.jpg "Hobbiton road sign")](/assets/blog/hobbiton-an-unexpected-adventure/IMG_20190129_110513.jpg)

## The Green Dragon

[![Lauren on her way to the green dragon near the watermill](/assets/blog/hobbiton-an-unexpected-adventure/IMG_20190129_111020.jpg "Lauren on her way to the green dragon near the watermill")](/assets/blog/hobbiton-an-unexpected-adventure/IMG_20190129_111020.jpg)

Our tour of Hobbiton ended at the Green Dragon Inn. A drink was included in the tour, and we had the option of beer, cider, and non-alcoholic ginger beer, which were all brewed exclusively for Hobbiton. They were served in cool hobbit-like mugs from barrels behind the bar at the Green Dragon Inn. After I grabbed a cider, and Gerrod a beer, we sat down in front of the fire to enjoy our drinks and feel like real hobbits.

[![Getting drinks at the Green Dragon](/assets/blog/hobbiton-an-unexpected-adventure/IMG_20190129_111419.jpg "Getting drinks at the Green Dragon")](/assets/blog/hobbiton-an-unexpected-adventure/IMG_20190129_111419.jpg)

## Lunch Time

After our drinks at the Green Dragon, we headed outside to enjoy the views near the lake. There was also a really cute cat hanging around, so of course I had to pet it!

We then headed into a tented area called the Party Marquee. It was lit up all cool, and had a yummy smelling buffet set up! There were so many choices for lunch, and Gerrod and I both loaded our plates up with almost every option. We sat next to couples from Canada and the US, and enjoyed some “small talk” while enjoying our meal!

[Hobbiton Film Set Tour](https://www.youtube.com/embed/kIQPQcG3rxw)

## Drive to the Next Airbnb

After lunch, we had a bus ride back to The Shire’s Rest, and the tour was over! Gerrod and I then walked around The Shire’s Rest to look at some of the souvenirs and various memorabilia that you could buy. We also decided to take advantage of the free wifi and call Gerrod’s cousin Evan since it was his birthday!

After our phone call, we headed to our next destination! We drove to a place called Turangi which is near Tongariro National Park about 2 hours south of Hobbiton!

Although I loved seeing the set, and everything was so beautiful, the tour itself was a bit scattered and rushed due to the group being very large. Our guide had good information, but sometimes talked before everyone had caught up to her. Hobbiton is fairly crowded, and definitely commercialized, but this is because it is so popular!

Until next time!

Lauren (and Gerrod)
]]></content:encoded>
            <author>bestseenonfoot@gmail.com (Lauren Schirtzinger)</author>
        </item>
        <item>
            <title><![CDATA[Piopio Filming Location and Caving in Waitomo Caves]]></title>
            <link>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/piopio-filming-location-and-caving-in-waitomo-caves</link>
            <guid>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/piopio-filming-location-and-caving-in-waitomo-caves</guid>
            <pubDate>Fri, 22 Mar 2019 17:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
            <description><![CDATA[Hey everyone! Lauren here to tell you about our busy day visiting a filming location from The Hobbit...]]></description>
            <content:encoded><![CDATA[
Hey everyone! Lauren here to tell you about our busy day visiting a filming location from The Hobbit: An Unexpected Journey called Hairy Feet Waitomo AND going on a 4 hour caving adventure in the Waitomo Caves!

## Hairy Feet Waitomo

### Some Middle Earth Background

Gerrod and I are both huge fans of the Lord of the Rings trilogy and were excited to hit up some of the filming locations while we were in New Zealand. When we were researching Lord of the Rings filming locations, we stumbled upon a place in Piopio with a tour company called Hairy Feet Waitomo. Hairy Feet Waitomo is actually a filming location for The Hobbit films, and since I am not a huge fan of the movies I wasn’t sure whether it would be worth a visit.

The location was also on private land which means we needed to pay for a tour. However, the tour had excellent reviews, all saying it was one of the best “Middle Earth” tours people took in New Zealand. So, Gerrod and I decided to give it a go!

### Getting to Piopio Hairy Feet Waitomo

We had to wake up at 6am to get to the 10am tour which was very early for us. We were staying in Rotorua which was about a 2 hour drive from Piopio, and also had a caving tour booked at Waitomo Caves at 1pm, meaning we couldn’t make the afternoon tour. After preparing for the day, we were on our way through the New Zealand countryside!

[Driving to Waitomo from the Airbnb](https://www.youtube.com/embed/9bPpa8_uOIg)

### About Hairy Feet Waitomo

Hairy Feet Waitomo is located on a sheep and cattle farm in the Mangaotaki Valley property near Piopio. It is owned by Warrick and Suzie Denize, a third generation of the Denize family on the farm. The farm is dominated by the Denize Bluffs, which are massive limestone cliffs full of beautiful rock formations and native forest.

### Arriving at Hairy Feet Waitomo

When we arrived at Hairy Feet Waitomo, we were greeted by Suzie and a very cute dog in the shop. We didn’t book the tour ahead of time, but luckily they had 5 open spots for the 10am tour! After paying for the tour, Suzie got out some awesome Middle Earth swords and took our picture in front of the beautiful bluffs! She had Gandalf’s sword Glamdring and Thorin’s sword Orcrist, along with a fun Gandalf hat and staff. The swords were very heavy!

[![The shop at Hairy Feet Waitomo](/assets/blog/piopio-filming-location-and-caving-in-waitomo-caves/IMG_20190128_095336.jpg "The shop at Hairy Feet Waitomo")](/assets/blog/piopio-filming-location-and-caving-in-waitomo-caves/IMG_20190128_095336.jpg)

After taking obviously amazing photos, Gerrod and I looked around the shop and waited for the rest of the tour group to arrive. There was a cuddly kitty in the main building that I got to pet, which passed the time quickly.

### The Hairy Feet Tour

The tour began with a video on how the site came to be a filming location for the movie, and how it has impacted the farm since! After the Hobbit was filmed, the farm has also been the location of other films and commercials, including a Budweiser Superbowl commercial “Dilly Dilly!”

### Denize Bluffs

Following the video, we began our tour! Warrick took us up to the beautiful bluffs and showed us specifically where the movie was filmed. The Denize Bluffs are stunning, and I can easily see why someone would want the area to be in their movie. After looking at the bluffs, we went into the woods where some of the Trollshaws Forest scenes were filmed. This is where Bilbo found his sword “Sting”, and they even had a fake Sting there so we could recreate the scene!

[![Trollshaws cliffs at Hairy Feet Waitomo](/assets/blog/piopio-filming-location-and-caving-in-waitomo-caves/IMG_20190128_101933.jpg "Trollshaws cliffs at Hairy Feet Waitomo")](/assets/blog/piopio-filming-location-and-caving-in-waitomo-caves/IMG_20190128_101933.jpg)

[![Path up to trollshaws at Hairy Feet Waitomo](/assets/blog/piopio-filming-location-and-caving-in-waitomo-caves/IMG_20190128_102150.jpg "Path up to trollshaws at Hairy Feet Waitomo")](/assets/blog/piopio-filming-location-and-caving-in-waitomo-caves/IMG_20190128_102150.jpg)

I loved the inside stories he told about the movie making process, including a local accommodation shortage and playing pranks on some of the security guards in the area! He even had pictures of the filming location, which made it easy to visualize what the film set would look like. Gerrod and I got to recreate several scenes, and as movie fans this was so much fun.

[![Our guide showing us pictures of The Hobbit for comparison at Hairy Feet Waitomo](/assets/blog/piopio-filming-location-and-caving-in-waitomo-caves/IMG_20190128_103635.jpg "Our guide showing us pictures of The Hobbit for comparison at Hairy Feet Waitomo")](/assets/blog/piopio-filming-location-and-caving-in-waitomo-caves/IMG_20190128_103635.jpg)

[![The fields at Hairy Feet Waitomo](/assets/blog/piopio-filming-location-and-caving-in-waitomo-caves/IMG_20190128_111628.jpg "The fields at Hairy Feet Waitomo")](/assets/blog/piopio-filming-location-and-caving-in-waitomo-caves/IMG_20190128_111628.jpg)

The Hairy Feet Waitomo tour was definitely worth the trip and was a great experience. It was so interesting learning about the family’s perspective on movie making, and their farm was so beautiful!

[Hairy Feet Waitomo Tour](https://www.youtube.com/embed/IDOEQXo2YqA)

## Waitomo Caves: Lost World 4 Hour Tour

The Waitomo Caves is on most lists of North Island ‘must sees’, so of course it was on mine. When Gerrod and I were searching on the [Bookme](https://www.bookme.co.nz/) site that our Airbnb hosts recommended, we found an amazing deal for the [Waitomo Adventures Lost World 4 Hour Tour](https://www.waitomo.co.nz/adventure/lost-world-half-day-adventure)! My brother had visited the Waitomo Caves, and had done a tour with Waitomo Adventures and highly recommended it, so of course we booked it.

Our drive to the Waitomo Adventures building from Piopio took us about 45 minutes. After we checked in, we had to sign medical waivers. After waiting for 10-15 minutes, our guides greeted us alongside our fellow cavers, and our adventure began!

[![Map of Waitomo Caves: Left](/assets/blog/piopio-filming-location-and-caving-in-waitomo-caves/IMG_20190128_124905.jpg "Map of Waitomo Caves: Left")](/assets/blog/piopio-filming-location-and-caving-in-waitomo-caves/IMG_20190128_124905.jpg)

[![Map of Waitomo Caves: Center](/assets/blog/piopio-filming-location-and-caving-in-waitomo-caves/IMG_20190128_124908.jpg "Map of Waitomo Caves: Center")](/assets/blog/piopio-filming-location-and-caving-in-waitomo-caves/IMG_20190128_124908.jpg)

[![Map of Waitomo Caves: Right](/assets/blog/piopio-filming-location-and-caving-in-waitomo-caves/IMG_20190128_124910.jpg "Map of Waitomo Caves: Right")](/assets/blog/piopio-filming-location-and-caving-in-waitomo-caves/IMG_20190128_124910.jpg)

### Preparing for Our Cave Adventure

Our tour began with a van ride to an equipment building near the tour. The cave was on private land, so we got to ride through some cow fields on the way to the cave! At the equipment building, we were provided with stylish blue jumpsuits, rubber boots, helmets with lights on them, and a harness for rappelling/abseiling into the cave!

After we were all suited up, we headed down near the cave to practice using the equipment. There was a guideline set up, and each member of our group practiced clipping with our carabiners while our guide made sure we were doing it correctly. There were 6 cavers total, and two guides. I was pleasantly surprised by how small our group was!

After we all passed the safety test, we walked down to the platform where we would rappel into the cave!

[![Looking down into Waitomo Caves](/assets/blog/piopio-filming-location-and-caving-in-waitomo-caves/28.1.2019-1pm-Craig-Charlie-029.JPG "Looking down into Waitomo Caves")](/assets/blog/piopio-filming-location-and-caving-in-waitomo-caves/28.1.2019-1pm-Craig-Charlie-029.JPG)

[![Looking up to the rappel platform from Waitomo Caves](/assets/blog/piopio-filming-location-and-caving-in-waitomo-caves/28.1.2019-1pm-Craig-Charlie-038.JPG "Looking up to the rappel platform from Waitomo Caves")](/assets/blog/piopio-filming-location-and-caving-in-waitomo-caves/28.1.2019-1pm-Craig-Charlie-038.JPG)

### Caving

The drop from the platform was 100 meters down into the cave! The entrance was foggy, and there were green plants all around the entrance! Our guides made sure we were all hooked into the rappel/abseil ropes correctly, and soon we were descending into the cave! It took us around 20 minutes to get all the way into the cave.

[![Lauren and Gerrod descending into Waitomo Caves](/assets/blog/piopio-filming-location-and-caving-in-waitomo-caves/28.1.2019-1pm-Craig-Charlie-003.JPG "Lauren and Gerrod descending into Waitomo Caves")](/assets/blog/piopio-filming-location-and-caving-in-waitomo-caves/28.1.2019-1pm-Craig-Charlie-003.JPG)

Our group was split by having one guide with one couple, and another guide with us and another couple. The other couple got to the bottom of the cave first. I wish we could have gone a little faster, as my legs were beginning to go numb, but our guide did get an epic picture of us descending into the cave!

[![At the bottom of the entrance to Waitomo Caves](/assets/blog/piopio-filming-location-and-caving-in-waitomo-caves/28.1.2019-1pm-Craig-Charlie-009.JPG "At the bottom of the entrance to Waitomo Caves")](/assets/blog/piopio-filming-location-and-caving-in-waitomo-caves/28.1.2019-1pm-Craig-Charlie-009.JPG)

[![Lauren and Gerrod rappelling into Waitomo Caves](/assets/blog/piopio-filming-location-and-caving-in-waitomo-caves/28.1.2019-1pm-Craig-Charlie-014.JPG "Lauren and Gerrod rappelling into Waitomo Caves")](/assets/blog/piopio-filming-location-and-caving-in-waitomo-caves/28.1.2019-1pm-Craig-Charlie-014.JPG)

When we all got to the bottom, we began our walk into the cave. The cave was very moist, and there was a small stream running through the bottom. Our guide told us the story of the discovery of the cave. Apparently farm animals were going missing because they were falling/getting stuck in the cave before they found the entrance!!

There were several boulders we got to scramble over, and one of our guides took cool shadow photos of us while we enjoyed some hot tea and chocolate. While we were near the stream in the cave, we saw a longfin eel in the water! It was super cool, as the eel can only be found in New Zealand, and I had never seen a freshwater eel!

[![Gerrod's silhouette in the Waitomo Caves](/assets/blog/piopio-filming-location-and-caving-in-waitomo-caves/28.1.2019-1pm-Craig-Charlie-020.JPG "Gerrod's silhouette in the Waitomo Caves")](/assets/blog/piopio-filming-location-and-caving-in-waitomo-caves/28.1.2019-1pm-Craig-Charlie-020.JPG)

[![Lauren's silhouette in Waitomo Caves](/assets/blog/piopio-filming-location-and-caving-in-waitomo-caves/28.1.2019-1pm-Craig-Charlie-021.JPG "Lauren's silhouette in Waitomo Caves")](/assets/blog/piopio-filming-location-and-caving-in-waitomo-caves/28.1.2019-1pm-Craig-Charlie-021.JPG)

### Glowworms

When we were deeper into the cave, we sat on a ledge and our guides told us to turn the lights off and look up. Above us, were tons of glowing worms! They glow blue, and look like tons of beautiful stars on the cave ceiling. While the group were marveling at the beauty of the worms, one of our guides told us a little bit about how gross they actually were.

[![The group marveling at Waitomo Caves](/assets/blog/piopio-filming-location-and-caving-in-waitomo-caves/28.1.2019-1pm-Craig-Charlie-043.JPG "The group marveling at Waitomo Caves")](/assets/blog/piopio-filming-location-and-caving-in-waitomo-caves/28.1.2019-1pm-Craig-Charlie-043.JPG)

The glowworms are actually fungus gnat larvae. The larva hangs a silk thread off of the cave ceiling, which it regularly places small sticky droplets onto. The blue bioluminescence then attracts prey to come closer, while the sticky droplets on their silk threads catch their food. The gross part (if sticky silk threads isn’t gross enough already), the wonderful glow of the larvae comes from their poo. Even if it is glowing poo, it is really beautiful.

### Exiting the Cave

There was a long 90 meter ladder climb at the end of the tour. I was in charge of safely clipping the last few members of our group, so our guides could go ahead and prepare for our exit from the cave. After we got out of the cave, we walked back to the equipment building to take off our cool jumpsuits and boots. Once our gear was off, we hopped back in the van to drive to the office.

[![Lauren and Gerrod hanging in Waitomo Caves](/assets/blog/piopio-filming-location-and-caving-in-waitomo-caves/28.1.2019-1pm-Craig-Charlie-044.JPG "Lauren and Gerrod hanging in Waitomo Caves")](/assets/blog/piopio-filming-location-and-caving-in-waitomo-caves/28.1.2019-1pm-Craig-Charlie-044.JPG)

There was only one disappointing thing about the tour: we weren’t allowed to bring cameras into the cave. I am sure there is a good reason for this, but it is the only thing I wish was different about the caving tour. They did take pictures for us, and provided them for free, but I really wanted a chance to photograph the glow worms. Either way, I had an amazing time on the Lost World 4 Hour Tour!

Our day ended with a drive back to Rotorua, and packing our bags so we could move on to our next location!

Until next time!

Lauren (and Gerrod)
]]></content:encoded>
            <author>bestseenonfoot@gmail.com (Lauren Schirtzinger)</author>
        </item>
        <item>
            <title><![CDATA[Rotorua Part 2: Wai-O-Tapu, OGO, and Tamaki Village]]></title>
            <link>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/rotorua-part-2-wai-o-tapu-ogo-and-tamaki-village</link>
            <guid>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/rotorua-part-2-wai-o-tapu-ogo-and-tamaki-village</guid>
            <pubDate>Mon, 18 Mar 2019 17:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
            <description><![CDATA[Hey everyone! Lauren here with Part 2 of our time exploring Rotorua! Rotorua is known for its geothermal activity and Maori culture...]]></description>
            <content:encoded><![CDATA[
Hey everyone! Lauren here with Part 2 of our time exploring Rotorua! Rotorua is known for its geothermal activity and Maori culture, and we packed all of that into one crazy busy day!

## Wai-O-Tapu

[Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Wonderland](https://www.waiotapu.co.nz/) is a hot spot of Rotorua’s geothermal activity. Our Airbnb hosts daughter worked there, so we decided to check it out!

[Wai-O-Tapu Geothermal Wonderland](https://www.youtube.com/embed/3nwP6chDB78)

### Lady Knox Geyser

Gerrod and I planned on getting there by 10am, as they have a geyser eruption at the Lady Knox Geyser everyday at 10:15. We were running a little late as we had just done laundry and were busy putting it away. We ended up missing the presentation and beginning of the geyser eruption, as the geyser is actually outside of the geothermal park.

[![Lauren and Lady Knox Geyser](/assets/blog/rotorua-part-2-wai-o-tapu-ogo-and-tamaki-village/IMG_20190126_104024.jpg "Lauren and Lady Knox Geyser")](/assets/blog/rotorua-part-2-wai-o-tapu-ogo-and-tamaki-village/IMG_20190126_104024.jpg)

[![Gerrod spewing Lady Knox Geyser](/assets/blog/rotorua-part-2-wai-o-tapu-ogo-and-tamaki-village/IMG_20190126_104108.jpg "Gerrod spewing Lady Knox Geyser")](/assets/blog/rotorua-part-2-wai-o-tapu-ogo-and-tamaki-village/IMG_20190126_104108.jpg)

As it turns out it explodes for almost an hour straight! It erupts when soap is added to the geyser. This little trick was discovered by prisoners, who added soap to the geyser when they were trying to wash their clothes.

[Lady Knox Geyser](https://www.youtube.com/embed/K-s8sNp9Pzc)

### Geothermal Park

After watching they geyser explode for awhile, we headed into the geothermal park. There were tons of different geothermal features, with a super wide range of colors! There were colorful pools, sulfur caves, bubbling mud pits, and more. We also saw a stick bug on a tree! I think science and geothermal things are cool, so I found the geothermal park 10 out of 10 super neat!

[![Steaming gorge at Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Wonderland](/assets/blog/rotorua-part-2-wai-o-tapu-ogo-and-tamaki-village/IMG_20190126_111411.jpg "Steaming gorge at Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Wonderland")](/assets/blog/rotorua-part-2-wai-o-tapu-ogo-and-tamaki-village/IMG_20190126_111411.jpg)

[![Pit at Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Wonderland](/assets/blog/rotorua-part-2-wai-o-tapu-ogo-and-tamaki-village/IMG_20190126_111556.jpg "Pit at Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Wonderland")](/assets/blog/rotorua-part-2-wai-o-tapu-ogo-and-tamaki-village/IMG_20190126_111556.jpg)

[![Geothermal rocks at Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Wonderland](/assets/blog/rotorua-part-2-wai-o-tapu-ogo-and-tamaki-village/IMG_20190126_111603.jpg "Geothermal rocks at Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Wonderland")](/assets/blog/rotorua-part-2-wai-o-tapu-ogo-and-tamaki-village/IMG_20190126_111603.jpg)

[![Steaming cave at Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Wonderland](/assets/blog/rotorua-part-2-wai-o-tapu-ogo-and-tamaki-village/IMG_20190126_112115.jpg "Steaming cave at Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Wonderland")](/assets/blog/rotorua-part-2-wai-o-tapu-ogo-and-tamaki-village/IMG_20190126_112115.jpg)

[![Mud pit at Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Wonderland](/assets/blog/rotorua-part-2-wai-o-tapu-ogo-and-tamaki-village/IMG_20190126_112449.jpg "Mud pit at Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Wonderland")](/assets/blog/rotorua-part-2-wai-o-tapu-ogo-and-tamaki-village/IMG_20190126_112449.jpg)

[![Colorful steaming pools at Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Wonderland](/assets/blog/rotorua-part-2-wai-o-tapu-ogo-and-tamaki-village/IMG_20190126_113338.jpg "Colorful steaming pools at Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Wonderland")](/assets/blog/rotorua-part-2-wai-o-tapu-ogo-and-tamaki-village/IMG_20190126_113338.jpg)

[![Champagne pool at Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Wonderland](/assets/blog/rotorua-part-2-wai-o-tapu-ogo-and-tamaki-village/IMG_20190126_114100.jpg "Champagne pool at Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Wonderland")](/assets/blog/rotorua-part-2-wai-o-tapu-ogo-and-tamaki-village/IMG_20190126_114100.jpg)

[![People crossing pools at Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Wonderland](/assets/blog/rotorua-part-2-wai-o-tapu-ogo-and-tamaki-village/IMG_20190126_115354.jpg "People crossing pools at Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Wonderland")](/assets/blog/rotorua-part-2-wai-o-tapu-ogo-and-tamaki-village/IMG_20190126_115354.jpg)

[![Bubbling pool at Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Wonderland](/assets/blog/rotorua-part-2-wai-o-tapu-ogo-and-tamaki-village/IMG_20190126_121020.jpg "Bubbling pool at Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Wonderland")](/assets/blog/rotorua-part-2-wai-o-tapu-ogo-and-tamaki-village/IMG_20190126_121020.jpg)

[![Green pool at Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Wonderland](/assets/blog/rotorua-part-2-wai-o-tapu-ogo-and-tamaki-village/IMG_20190126_124419.jpg "Green pool at Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Wonderland")](/assets/blog/rotorua-part-2-wai-o-tapu-ogo-and-tamaki-village/IMG_20190126_124419.jpg)

## OGO Rotorua Zorbing

After our visit to Wai-O-Tapu, we headed in town to do some zorbing! Gerrod and I both thought zorbing looked ridiculous and decided we HAD to do it, even if it was a little expensive. Zorbing is essentially rolling down a hill in a giant inflatable hamster ball. We decided to go with a company called [OGO](https://zorb.com/) since it was started by the inventors.

[![The entrance to OGO Rotorua Zorbing](/assets/blog/rotorua-part-2-wai-o-tapu-ogo-and-tamaki-village/IMG_20190126_133639.jpg "The entrance to OGO Rotorua Zorbing")](/assets/blog/rotorua-part-2-wai-o-tapu-ogo-and-tamaki-village/IMG_20190126_133639.jpg)

[![Watching the zorbs at OGO Rotorua Zorbing](/assets/blog/rotorua-part-2-wai-o-tapu-ogo-and-tamaki-village/IMG_20190126_134853.jpg "Watching the zorbs at OGO Rotorua Zorbing")](/assets/blog/rotorua-part-2-wai-o-tapu-ogo-and-tamaki-village/IMG_20190126_134853.jpg)

OGO did not disappoint. We did the “wet” zorbing, which is when the giant ball is filled with water. OGO had four different ball rolling tracks – the world’s longest zig-zag Sidewinder Track, the smooth ‘n’ fast double Straight Track, the MEGA Track – the longest, fastest and steepest track in all the land, and the Big Air track. There were several different booking options, but Gerrod and I decided to do all four routes which cost 280 NZD total.

We started with the double Straight Track so we could do some racing. I asked the employee how to go super fast and kicked Gerrod’s butt. He claims it was because I got a head start. Those who know me know I am a little over competitive, and I may have rubbed it in his face a little bit too much.

The next three tracks Gerrod and I shared balls, which I thought was even more fun because it added an unpredictable element in how we would slosh around. I think the Sidewinder was my favorite, as we were rolling around everywhere! All of the tracks were so fun, and I couldn’t help but smile every time. It was for sure a 10 out of 10 experience!

[OGO Rotorua Zorbing](https://www.youtube.com/embed/2sAcXHbI6jE)

## Tamaki Maori Village

Since Rotorua is known for its Maori culture, Gerrod and I decided to visit one of the local Maori villages to learn more. We landed on [Tamaki Maori Village](https://te-pa-tu.com/) based on positive internet reviews. We also found a discount on the [Bookme](https://www.bookme.co.nz/) site our Airbnb hosts recommended.

### Getting to the Village

We started our Tamaki Village Adventure from the Tamaki Office in downtown Rotorua. Most people get picked up directly from their hotel, but since we were staying at an Airbnb just outside of town, that wasn’t an option. We actually passed the Tamaki Village location on our way to downtown Rotorua!

After checking in, we were assigned to a bus. We were on the Weka bus, and were told everyone on our bus was now in our tribe and we had to choose a leader. Apparently someone volunteered for the position, so we didn’t have too much choosing to do! Our “village” chief was named Alfred. He was an older man from Germany and spoke almost no English at all! On our bus ride to the village, Alfred was given some instructions on what to do. There was a woman acting as his personal guide who would translate for him, but he still seemed a little unsure about what to do.

### Arrival at the Village

On arrival at the village, an ancient welcome ceremony called the powhiri took place before we could enter the village. Traditionally the powhiri was performed to determine whether visitors were friendly or hostile. Our powhiri began with a wero or challenge. Our chief Alfred, and the 4 other chiefs from the other buses stood in front as the Maori warriors came forward to look them over to further determine whether we were friendly or not.

We were informed beforehand not to laugh at the faces the warriors made, as it was disrespectful even if we may find them funny. After the warriors assessed our chiefs, the Tamaki Village chief came forward and laid down a token, which was just a small leaf, for our chiefs to pick up to show that we came in peace.

After the powhiri was completed, we entered the village!

### Through the Village

There were several huts, and at each hut there was a station where we would learn about a different aspect of Maori culture.

I got volunteered to learn the poi in front of our tribe with a few other women. The poi is a rock or ball at the end of a rope that is flung around. Warriors traditionally used them as a form of strength training. Since it is no longer used, women now use a version of it to aid in telling traditional Maori stories.

Since I got volunteered for the poi demonstration, I made sure Gerrod got volunteered at our next station, the traditional Maori Games. He kicked butt at a game with some long sticks called poi rākau, which I can’t properly explain. You can watch the game in action 4 minutes and 36 seconds into our Tamaki Village highlights video.

[Tamaki Village](https://www.youtube.com/embed/QDX0qr7wdrM)

Gerrod also got to learn the haka, which is a Maori war dance. We learned a lot at the stations, but I felt like they were a little rushed! After going through all of the stations and learning about more things such as arts weaving, wood carving and facial tattooing, It was nearly time for dinner! They did a big reveal of our hangi meal, which was cooked underground. There were lots of meats and veggies, and it looked and smelled delicious.

[![Learning about tattoos at Tamaki Maori Village](/assets/blog/rotorua-part-2-wai-o-tapu-ogo-and-tamaki-village/IMG_20190126_185836.jpg "Learning about tattoos at Tamaki Maori Village")](/assets/blog/rotorua-part-2-wai-o-tapu-ogo-and-tamaki-village/IMG_20190126_185836.jpg)

### Music Performance

Before we got to eat our hangi, we went to an auditorium to watch some traditional Maori song and dance performances. The women incorporated the poi into some of the performances, and at one point they even sang a lovely song with the acoustic guitar!

### Dinner Time

After the performance, it was time to eat! We sat at a table next to a nice retired couple from Boston. The couple had sold all of their things, and had been traveling for one year straight! They seemed to be traveling fairly high class, and planned on continuing their adventure for 3 years before returning to the USA.

[![Cooking pits at Tamaki Maori Village](/assets/blog/rotorua-part-2-wai-o-tapu-ogo-and-tamaki-village/IMG_20190126_190946.jpg "Cooking pits at Tamaki Maori Village")](/assets/blog/rotorua-part-2-wai-o-tapu-ogo-and-tamaki-village/IMG_20190126_190946.jpg)

Dinner was delicious. There were potatoes, carrots, lamb, and chicken. We got to enjoy some delicious pavlova for dessert as well! It was one of the best meals Gerrod and I had eaten in a while, and we definitely both went back for seconds.

### Drive Back to Rotorua

On our bus ride home, our driver, Dennis the Menace decided to do a group sing along. He went through a bunch of different songs, including an altered version of Wheels on the Bus. At one point he literally drove around a roundabout THREE TIMES until the end of “Coming 'Round the Mountain.” It was definitely an enjoyable way to end our Tamaki Village adventure.

## Rainbow Mountain Reserve

On our last day in Rotorua, Gerrod and I decided to do a short hike at the Rainbow Mountain Reserve. The hike we decided to do was the [Rainbow Mountain-Summit Track](https://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-recreation/places-to-go/bay-of-plenty/places/maunga-kakaramea-and-waiotapu-scenic-reserves/things-to-do/maunga-kakaramea-summit-track/) which has great views of the surrounding countryside. The hike was fairly steep, but we got to walk through some native forest vegetation and see some beautiful colors in the rock along the trail. It wasn’t too difficult, and was a very enjoyable short hike.

[![Colorful pool at Rainbow Mountain Reserve](/assets/blog/rotorua-part-2-wai-o-tapu-ogo-and-tamaki-village/IMG_20190127_124025.jpg "Colorful pool at Rainbow Mountain Reserve")](/assets/blog/rotorua-part-2-wai-o-tapu-ogo-and-tamaki-village/IMG_20190127_124025.jpg)

[![Mountain side at Rainbow Mountain Reserve](/assets/blog/rotorua-part-2-wai-o-tapu-ogo-and-tamaki-village/IMG_20190127_131605.jpg "Mountain side at Rainbow Mountain Reserve")](/assets/blog/rotorua-part-2-wai-o-tapu-ogo-and-tamaki-village/IMG_20190127_131605.jpg)

[![Gerrod and Lauren enjoying the view at Rainbow Mountain Reserve](/assets/blog/rotorua-part-2-wai-o-tapu-ogo-and-tamaki-village/IMG_20190127_134124.jpg "Gerrod and Lauren enjoying the view at Rainbow Mountain Reserve")](/assets/blog/rotorua-part-2-wai-o-tapu-ogo-and-tamaki-village/IMG_20190127_134124.jpg)

[Rainbow Mountain Reserve Hike](https://www.youtube.com/embed/Afe5zpGt3Ko)

After we finished the hike, Gerrod and I decided to relax the rest of the day in preparation for a busy day at the Waitomo Caves and Piopio which we will discuss in our next post!

I feel like Rotorua was one of the few destinations in New Zealand that Gerrod and I gave enough time to see properly. Of course there was tons more we could have seen, but overall we had a great experience with a wide range of activities!

Until next time!

Lauren (and Gerrod)
]]></content:encoded>
            <author>bestseenonfoot@gmail.com (Lauren Schirtzinger)</author>
        </item>
        <item>
            <title><![CDATA[Rotorua Part 1: Exploring Downtown, Redwoods, and Kerosene Creek]]></title>
            <link>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/rotorua-part-1-exploring-downtown-redwoods-and-kerosene-creek</link>
            <guid>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/rotorua-part-1-exploring-downtown-redwoods-and-kerosene-creek</guid>
            <pubDate>Sat, 16 Mar 2019 17:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
            <description><![CDATA[Hey everyone! Lauren here with Part 1 of our time exploring Rotorua! It is a town on the North Island of New Zealand and is known for its geothermal activity...]]></description>
            <content:encoded><![CDATA[
Hey everyone! Lauren here with Part 1 of our time exploring Rotorua! It is a town on the North Island of New Zealand and is known for its geothermal activity and Maori culture!

## Driving from the Coromandel to Rotorua

The drive from our hostel on the Coromandel Peninsula to Rotorua took us about 3.5 hours. We noticed that driving times in New Zealand almost always took longer than predicted on Google Maps and Maps.me.

## Exploring Downtown Rotorua

We couldn’t check into our Airbnb until later in the afternoon, so we decided to hang out in downtown Rotorua until closer to our check-in time. We found parking in a garage, and headed into the town center!

We were both very hungry so we went to a local indian food place for "lunch". It was like 3pm, so it was a kind of weird time for lunch. After a delicious lunch, we decided to explore! There is actually quite a bit to see in downtown [Rotorua](https://www.rotoruanz.com/).

First, we stopped by the Government Gardens. There were a few several sulfur smelling pools around and a bunch of art sculptures around! In the gardens there is a cool looking building called the Rotorua Museum. The internet told me that it is a free museum, however it was closed due refurbishments to make it more structurally sound for earthquakes. Nevertheless, it was a beautiful building. We also walked past a few geothermal spas, including one called the [Polynesian Spa](https://www.polynesianspa.co.nz/) and the [Blue Baths](https://bluebaths.co.nz/bathing/).

[![Rotorua Government Gardens Map](/assets/blog/rotorua-part-1-exploring-downtown-redwoods-and-kerosene-creek/IMG_20190124_145425.jpg "Rotorua Government Gardens Map")](/assets/blog/rotorua-part-1-exploring-downtown-redwoods-and-kerosene-creek/IMG_20190124_145425.jpg)

[![Sulfur pool in downtown Rotorua](/assets/blog/rotorua-part-1-exploring-downtown-redwoods-and-kerosene-creek/IMG_20190124_150504.jpg "Sulfur pool in downtown Rotorua")](/assets/blog/rotorua-part-1-exploring-downtown-redwoods-and-kerosene-creek/IMG_20190124_150504.jpg)

[![Rotorua Museum](/assets/blog/rotorua-part-1-exploring-downtown-redwoods-and-kerosene-creek/IMG_20190124_150558.jpg "Rotorua Museum")](/assets/blog/rotorua-part-1-exploring-downtown-redwoods-and-kerosene-creek/IMG_20190124_150558.jpg)

[![Neat sculpture in Rotorua](/assets/blog/rotorua-part-1-exploring-downtown-redwoods-and-kerosene-creek/IMG_20190124_150717.jpg "Neat sculpture in Rotorua")](/assets/blog/rotorua-part-1-exploring-downtown-redwoods-and-kerosene-creek/IMG_20190124_150717.jpg)

[![Lauren walking in the Rose garden of Rotorua](/assets/blog/rotorua-part-1-exploring-downtown-redwoods-and-kerosene-creek/IMG_20190124_151107.jpg "Lauren walking in the Rose garden of Rotorua")](/assets/blog/rotorua-part-1-exploring-downtown-redwoods-and-kerosene-creek/IMG_20190124_151107.jpg)

[![Laughing gas sulfur pool in Rotorua](/assets/blog/rotorua-part-1-exploring-downtown-redwoods-and-kerosene-creek/IMG_20190124_151734.jpg "Laughing gas sulfur pool in Rotorua")](/assets/blog/rotorua-part-1-exploring-downtown-redwoods-and-kerosene-creek/IMG_20190124_151734.jpg)

Then we took a walk around Lake Rotorua. Around the lake there were several smelly sulfur pools, a gurgley geyser, and tons of birds. There were a few informational signs around the lake as well that made it the perfect introduction to Rotorua. We also stopped by the large visitors’ center to look at brochures. We grabbed several pamphlets, including maps to free hiking trails in the area.

[![A view of Mokola Island from Rotorua](/assets/blog/rotorua-part-1-exploring-downtown-redwoods-and-kerosene-creek/IMG_20190124_153348.jpg "A view of Mokola Island from Rotorua")](/assets/blog/rotorua-part-1-exploring-downtown-redwoods-and-kerosene-creek/IMG_20190124_153348.jpg)

[![Steamy Sulfur pool in Rotorua](/assets/blog/rotorua-part-1-exploring-downtown-redwoods-and-kerosene-creek/IMG_20190124_160130.jpg "Steamy Sulfur pool in Rotorua")](/assets/blog/rotorua-part-1-exploring-downtown-redwoods-and-kerosene-creek/IMG_20190124_160130.jpg)

## Our Farm Airbnb

After exploring Rotorua, we paid for parking and headed to our Airbnb! We were staying at a local farm, so it was a little tricky to find. Luckily their directions were very clear, and as we pulled into the driveway our host and her daughter pulled in behind us and confirmed we were at the right spot.

There were so many wonderful animals at the Airbnb! They had 3 friendly dogs, a cat, a super cute kitten, some chickens, two turtles, two enormous pigs, and a bunch of sheep and cows.

[![Lauren and the Airbnb kitten](/assets/blog/rotorua-part-1-exploring-downtown-redwoods-and-kerosene-creek/IMG_20190124_170448.jpg "Lauren and the Airbnb kitten")](/assets/blog/rotorua-part-1-exploring-downtown-redwoods-and-kerosene-creek/IMG_20190124_170448.jpg)

We were staying in their home, and our hosts Matt and Cherie were so welcoming. They gave us some advice on things to do in the area, and suggested a site called [Bookme](https://www.bookme.co.nz/) to find discounts on things in New Zealand! We ended up finding tons of good deals on this site, and booked a Waitomo Cave tour and Maori Village adventure through the site.

## Wai-O-Tapu Reserve Mud Pools

The next day we headed out to do some hiking! After cooking a delicious breakfast of fresh farm eggs provided by the chickens at our Airbnb, we headed out in our rental car. On the way to the redwood forest where we intended to walk, we stopped by the Wai-O-Tapu Reserve mud pools. They were right along the road, and completely free!

There was a short boardwalk where you could watch the hot mud bubble. We watched the bubbly mud for a while waiting for the best "splooge" of mud. After taking some pics and video, we continued our drive.

[Wai-O-Tapu Mud Pool](https://www.youtube.com/embed/JOPOJO7Tp7U)

## Redwoods and Whakarewarewa Forest

What a better place to see the California Redwood tree than New Zealand! I’ve never actually seen redwood trees, so we decided to do a hike here after a recommendation by my brother. The [Redwoods](https://redwoods.co.nz/walk/) were planted in the Whakarewarewa Forest in a forestry experiment and happened to grow really well!

[![Map of Whakarewarewa Forest](/assets/blog/rotorua-part-1-exploring-downtown-redwoods-and-kerosene-creek/IMG_20190125_123724.jpg "Map of Whakarewarewa Forest")](/assets/blog/rotorua-part-1-exploring-downtown-redwoods-and-kerosene-creek/IMG_20190125_123724.jpg)

After getting a little lost on the way thanks to crappy Maps.me directions, we stopped by the visitor’s center to look at the trail map. We decided to do "the purple hike" AKA the Tokorangi Pa track, which was 11.5km.

The hike began in the redwood grove. The trees were gigantic! The path continued up the hillside out of the redwood grove. There was supposed to be a viewpoint of Rotorua from near the top of the hill, but after starting to hike downhill, Gerrod and I realized we somehow missed it! We backtracked a bit and used Maps.me to find the viewpoint and it turns out the "viewpoint" was kind of covered by trees and wasn’t a very good viewpoint.

[![Lauren next to redwood for scale in Whakarewarewa Forest](/assets/blog/rotorua-part-1-exploring-downtown-redwoods-and-kerosene-creek/IMG_20190125_124832.jpg "Lauren next to redwood for scale in Whakarewarewa Forest")](/assets/blog/rotorua-part-1-exploring-downtown-redwoods-and-kerosene-creek/IMG_20190125_124832.jpg)

[![Redwood tree walk in Whakarewarewa Forest](/assets/blog/rotorua-part-1-exploring-downtown-redwoods-and-kerosene-creek/IMG_20190125_160204.jpg "Redwood tree walk in Whakarewarewa Forest")](/assets/blog/rotorua-part-1-exploring-downtown-redwoods-and-kerosene-creek/IMG_20190125_160204.jpg)

Despite the bad viewpoint, it was a wonderful hike through the woods!

[Whakarewarewa Forest Redwood Walk - Tokorangi Pa Track](https://www.youtube.com/embed/cZhiqy36OGY)

## Kerosene Creek

On our way back to our Airbnb following our Redwoods walk, we stopped by Kerosene Creek! Kerosene creek is a hot spring that mixes with stream water making a hot tub temperature pool under a waterfall! There was a quite a long gravel road to Kerosene Creek, but when we arrived there was a fairly large parking area with a hole in the ground potty. After changing into our swimsuits in the lovely toilet room, we started down the walking path to Kerosene falls.

The walk was very short and easy, and you could see the steam coming off the creek the whole walk! Luckily, there weren’t too many people at the waterfall when we arrived. The water was sooo warm and relaxing!

[Kerosene Creek](https://www.youtube.com/embed/ltglsTepj0k)

We relaxed in the water, and submerged ourselves a bit. AFTER we dunked our heads in the water, someone else mentioned to us not to dunk your head in the water as there is some type of infection you can get. I did some after-the-fact research and determined the infection she warned us about was actually amoebic meningitis. Although very rare, amoebic meningitis is a serious disease that leads to inflammation of the brain and is usually fatal. Luckily Gerrod and I are not dead so there’s that.

After our soak in Kerosene Creek, we headed back to our Airbnb farm to play with the kitten and decide what to do with the rest of our time in Rotorua!

Until next time!

Lauren (and Gerrod)
]]></content:encoded>
            <author>bestseenonfoot@gmail.com (Lauren Schirtzinger)</author>
        </item>
        <item>
            <title><![CDATA[Coromandel Peninsula Part 2: Cathedral Cove and the Gemstone Bay Snorkel Track]]></title>
            <link>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/coromandel-peninsula-part-2-cathedral-cove-and-the-gemstone-bay-snorkel-track</link>
            <guid>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/coromandel-peninsula-part-2-cathedral-cove-and-the-gemstone-bay-snorkel-track</guid>
            <pubDate>Thu, 14 Mar 2019 17:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
            <description><![CDATA[Hey everyone! Lauren here to tell you about our experience with Cathedral Cove and Gemstone Bay on the Coromandel Peninsula on the north island of New Zealand...]]></description>
            <content:encoded><![CDATA[
Hey everyone! Lauren here to tell you about our experience with Cathedral Cove and Gemstone Bay on the Coromandel Peninsula on the north island of New Zealand!

## Getting to Cathedral Cove

On our last day on the Coromandel Peninsula, we decided to go to Cathedral Cove. Before we made our way to the cove, Gerrod and I went to a local cafe to get some work done. Our hostel had very poor wifi, so we stayed at the cafe for nearly 2 hours to finish everything we needed to before leaving!

The drive from our hostel to the parking area off Hahei Beach Road took about 30-40 minutes. Normally you can park at a carpark right at the start of the Cathedral Cove walking path, but during the summer month it is too busy so you have to park further away. The parking lot was very full, but we luckily found a parking spot fairly quick.

There were several signs indicating that there was a 5 dollar shuttle to the start of the trail, but Gerrod and I are cheap and decided to walk. There are also several tours that take you there by boat or kayak, but again, Gerrod and I are cheap.

## The Walk to Cathedral Cove

[![Map of Hahei](/assets/blog/coromandel-peninsula-part-2-cathedral-cove-and-the-gemstone-bay-snorkel-track/IMG_20190123_123558.jpg "Map of Hahei")](/assets/blog/coromandel-peninsula-part-2-cathedral-cove-and-the-gemstone-bay-snorkel-track/IMG_20190123_123558.jpg)

The walk to the trail only added about 20-30 minutes, but was along the road uphill. It was pretty steep, but not 5 dollars steep. The walking track itself was paved with a few hills, and had absolutely STUNNING views of the coastline. There were a few turn offs along the path that lead to Gemstone Bay and a place called Mares Leg.

[![Boats in the water of Hahei](/assets/blog/coromandel-peninsula-part-2-cathedral-cove-and-the-gemstone-bay-snorkel-track/IMG_20190123_130546.jpg "Boats in the water of Hahei")](/assets/blog/coromandel-peninsula-part-2-cathedral-cove-and-the-gemstone-bay-snorkel-track/IMG_20190123_130546.jpg)

[![A view of Cathedral Rock from the trail](/assets/blog/coromandel-peninsula-part-2-cathedral-cove-and-the-gemstone-bay-snorkel-track/IMG_8026~2.JPG "A view of Cathedral Rock from the trail")](/assets/blog/coromandel-peninsula-part-2-cathedral-cove-and-the-gemstone-bay-snorkel-track/IMG_8026~2.JPG)

It was very sunny and hot so when we walked down the final stairs to the beach near Cathedral Cove I was so excited! The beach had beautiful white sand and steep cliffs on either side. On one side was the beautiful Cathedral Cove!

Cathedral Cove is a naturally formed rock archway along the coast. I actually first saw the cove in Chronicles of Narnia: Prince Caspian, and thought it was beautiful. The ceiling of the cove was so high above us, and as you walked through you could see another beautiful beach on the other side.

[![Lauren approaches Cathedral Cove](/assets/blog/coromandel-peninsula-part-2-cathedral-cove-and-the-gemstone-bay-snorkel-track/IMG_20190123_133013.jpg "Lauren approaches Cathedral Cove")](/assets/blog/coromandel-peninsula-part-2-cathedral-cove-and-the-gemstone-bay-snorkel-track/IMG_20190123_133013.jpg)

[![People gathered at Cathedral Cove](/assets/blog/coromandel-peninsula-part-2-cathedral-cove-and-the-gemstone-bay-snorkel-track/IMG_20190123_133235.jpg "People gathered at Cathedral Cove")](/assets/blog/coromandel-peninsula-part-2-cathedral-cove-and-the-gemstone-bay-snorkel-track/IMG_20190123_133235.jpg)

## Cove Exploring and Rock Jumping

After we walked all the way to the cove, we decided to explore the beach. There were a few caves that you can enter during low tide, which is fortunately when we were at the beach. One cove you actually had to swim into!

[![Gerrod's silhouette near Cathedral Cove](/assets/blog/coromandel-peninsula-part-2-cathedral-cove-and-the-gemstone-bay-snorkel-track/P1220299~2.JPG "Gerrod's silhouette near Cathedral Cove")](/assets/blog/coromandel-peninsula-part-2-cathedral-cove-and-the-gemstone-bay-snorkel-track/P1220299~2.JPG)

[![Lauren's silhouette near Cathedral Cove](/assets/blog/coromandel-peninsula-part-2-cathedral-cove-and-the-gemstone-bay-snorkel-track/P1220300~2.JPG "Lauren's silhouette near Cathedral Cove")](/assets/blog/coromandel-peninsula-part-2-cathedral-cove-and-the-gemstone-bay-snorkel-track/P1220300~2.JPG)

[![The beach at Cathedral Cove](/assets/blog/coromandel-peninsula-part-2-cathedral-cove-and-the-gemstone-bay-snorkel-track/P1220353~2.JPG "The beach at Cathedral Cove")](/assets/blog/coromandel-peninsula-part-2-cathedral-cove-and-the-gemstone-bay-snorkel-track/P1220353~2.JPG)

[![Gerrod soaking in the bliss of Cathedral Cove](/assets/blog/coromandel-peninsula-part-2-cathedral-cove-and-the-gemstone-bay-snorkel-track/P1220356~2.JPG "Gerrod soaking in the bliss of Cathedral Cove")](/assets/blog/coromandel-peninsula-part-2-cathedral-cove-and-the-gemstone-bay-snorkel-track/P1220356~2.JPG)

There was a large rock that people were jumping off of, so of course Gerrod and I had to give it a try. Gerrod went first, and then I followed, stupidly forgetting I still had my sunglasses on my face. There were temporarily lost at the bottom, but fortunately some kid with a snorkel mask was nearby and helped us retrieve them.

On the northern side of the cove was a large, interesting, and beautiful rock. There were so many birds nesting on a large rock that Gerrod deemed it “Bird Rock”. The seagulls were so protective of their young that they even dove at us if we got too close to the rock. After we looked at a map of the cove, it turns out the rock is actually called Te Hoho Rock. NOT bird rock.

[![Te Hoho Rock (a.k.a Bird Rock)](/assets/blog/coromandel-peninsula-part-2-cathedral-cove-and-the-gemstone-bay-snorkel-track/IMG_20190123_133324.jpg "Te Hoho Rock (a.k.a Bird Rock)")](/assets/blog/coromandel-peninsula-part-2-cathedral-cove-and-the-gemstone-bay-snorkel-track/IMG_20190123_133324.jpg)

[Cathedral Cove](https://www.youtube.com/embed/Xpis_GfhKG4)

## Gemstone Bay Snorkel Track

On our way back to the carpark from Cathedral Cove, we stopped at Gemstone Bay to go snorkeling! Gemstone Bay is right off the track to Cathedral Cove, and there is an established “snorkel trail” set up in the water. The “trail” consisted of four buoys with informational signs explaining the ocean life attached!

The beach was very rocky! Gerrod and I found a place to leave our stuff, and “rock hopped” to the water’s edge. The water was very cold, but it was unlike any ocean environment I had ever seen! There was kelp everywhere, and tons of fish swimming around. We saw several eagle rays gracefully swimming through the water.

[![Underwater plants at Gemstone Bay Snorkel Track](/assets/blog/coromandel-peninsula-part-2-cathedral-cove-and-the-gemstone-bay-snorkel-track/P1220426~2.JPG "Underwater plants at Gemstone Bay Snorkel Track")](/assets/blog/coromandel-peninsula-part-2-cathedral-cove-and-the-gemstone-bay-snorkel-track/P1220426~2.JPG)

Some guys were parked with their boat right next to the snorkel trail and were feeding the fish. They invited us to come closer so we watch up close. It was cool to see the fish all swarmed under the boat and zooming to eat the fish chunks; however since the area along Gemstone Bay and Cathedral Cove is in the Te-Whanganui-A-Hei Marine Reserve, feeding the fish is not allowed. Feeding any animal in their natural environment can alter their behavior so that they seek food from people rather than their natural environment!

[Gemstone Bay](https://www.youtube.com/embed/dMb1CT0XHlc)

## Heading Back to the Hostel

After finishing the swim around the bay, Gerrod and I were freezing and ready to get out of the water. After drying off and taking some pictures, we walked the rest of the way back to our car at the Hahei carpark. It was an amazing day, and a perfect way to spend our last day on the peninsula.

I wish we had more time to spend on the Coromandel Peninsula, but I find myself wishing I had more time everywhere we have been!

Until next time!

Lauren (and Gerrod)
]]></content:encoded>
            <author>bestseenonfoot@gmail.com (Lauren Schirtzinger)</author>
        </item>
        <item>
            <title><![CDATA[Coromandel Peninsula Part 1: Hot Water Beach and Pinnacles Walk]]></title>
            <link>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/coromandel-peninsula-part-1-hot-water-beach-and-pinnacles-walk</link>
            <guid>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/coromandel-peninsula-part-1-hot-water-beach-and-pinnacles-walk</guid>
            <pubDate>Fri, 08 Mar 2019 17:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
            <description><![CDATA[Hey everyone! Lauren here to tell you about our experience with Hot Water Beach and hiking on the Coromandel...]]></description>
            <content:encoded><![CDATA[
Hey everyone! Lauren here to tell you about our experience with Hot Water Beach and hiking on the Coromandel Peninsula on the north island of New Zealand!

## The Drive from Auckland to the Coromandel

We woke up around 8am to get ready and have some more community breakfast at the Fat Cat Backpackers Hostel in Auckland. After packing up our rental car, we were on the road towards a town called Whitianga on the Coromandel Peninsula.

Heading out of Auckland, the landscape was predominately rolling green hills and farmland. As we neared the Coromandel, the surroundings became steadily more mountainous with tree covered peaks! The drive was supposed to took us about 2.5-3 hours, and Gerrod insisted we listen to the Lord of the Rings, Fellowship of the Ring soundtrack the entire drive.

## Arrival at our Hostel

When we arrived in Whitianga, we headed to our hostel, [Cats Pyjamas](https://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Review-g488373-d285236-Reviews-The_Cats_Pyjamas-Whitianga_Coromandel_Peninsula_Waikato_Region_North_Island.html). There was no one at the front desk, and we had to ring the “help” button several times before anyone came out to check us in. After we were checked in and paid, we were showed to our room which was a mixed gender, 6 bed dorm.

[![Cats Pyjamas Hostel](/assets/blog/coromandel-peninsula-part-1-hot-water-beach-and-pinnacles-walk/IMG_20190121_131636.jpg "Cats Pyjamas Hostel")](/assets/blog/coromandel-peninsula-part-1-hot-water-beach-and-pinnacles-walk/IMG_20190121_131636.jpg)

## Hot Water Beach

After we dropped off our things in our dorm room, we rushed off to Hot Water Beach. Hot Water Beach is named because two hours on either side of low tide, hot thermal water seeps up and you can dig your very own “hot tub” in the sand! I had looked at the tide schedule, and low tide had just passed, so we figured we had two hours to enjoy the beach!

The drive took us about 30-40 minutes, and we found the parking situation to be crazy! All of the lots closer to the beach were full, so we ended up parking in a pay and display lot which charged 4 NZD for 2hr parking. The lot was about a 10-15 minutes walk from the beach. We changed into our swimsuits in the car to speed things up headed off toward the beach.

There were rentable shovels at a shop right near the beach, but Gerrod and I decided we would just go check it out and determine if we needed to rent a shovel later. There was a rock just off shore that most people seemed to be gathered around, and we figured that is where the “good spot” was.

We ended up finding a half dug, abandoned hole and claimed it as our own. We started digging with our hands, and then after realizing it would take forever asked to borrow some shovels from a family next to us who were clearly done with their own hole. Our pit ended up being filled with lukewarm water. We could feel the hot water if we reached down into the sand, but no matter how deep we dig it seemed like our hole was collapsing in on itself before we reached the hot water!

Gerrod and I kind of gave up on our hole and accepted the lukewarm water, when I recognized the couple next to us! They were behind us in line at the Tahiti International Airport!!! After chatting with them for awhile, they decided to leave and offered us their super hot watered hole. Their hole was much hotter than ours, so Gerrod and I soaked and enjoyed the hot thermal water. Low tide was over, and the water was slowly getting closer to the sand pits people dug on the beach.

[Hot Water Beach](https://www.youtube.com/embed/4fs2mTkFtbs)

We stayed in our new hole until the tide washed it away. After our hole was destroyed, we took a dip in the ocean to wash off the sand that had gathered in our swimsuit bottoms. I somehow could not rinse all of the sand out of my butt! We ended up rinsing the rest off at showers near the beach before heading back to the hostel!

## Kauaeranga Kauri Trail (Pinnacles Walk)

[Hiking the Pinnacles Walk of Kauaeranga Kauri Trail](https://www.youtube.com/embed/SF2hHVtN21g)

The next day we woke up after 8am for breakfast and to get ready for our day. We had asked some of the other travelers staying at the hostel for suggestions for a hike since the one I read about was VERY far away, and they told us about the [pinnacles walk](https://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-recreation/places-to-go/coromandel/places/coromandel-forest-park/things-to-do/kauaeranga-kauri-trail/). After doing a bit of research online, I noticed there were several different routes to take, and that many people hike to the pinnacles as part of a multi-day hike.

[![Map of the Kauaeranga Kauri Trail Pinnacles Walk](/assets/blog/coromandel-peninsula-part-1-hot-water-beach-and-pinnacles-walk/IMG_20190122_115757.jpg "Map of the Kauaeranga Kauri Trail Pinnacles Walk")](/assets/blog/coromandel-peninsula-part-1-hot-water-beach-and-pinnacles-walk/IMG_20190122_115757.jpg)

We decided to go to the Kauaeranga Visitor Center to get better information and talk to a park ranger/volunteer. So we headed out in our trusty rental car to the Coromandel Forest Park in the Kauaeranga Valley. When we finally made it to the visitor’s center, they suggested we take the Webb Creek Track to the pinnacles, provided us with a map, and showed us where to park!

After parking our car, we got ready and began our hike. Similar to the Mercer Bay Loop and Kitekite Falls trails I talked about in our last [post](/posts/aucklands-west-coast), there was a shoe washing station to prevent the spread of the kauri dieback disease in New Zealand’s forests.

After cleaning our shoes, we headed along the trail. The trail was mostly through the woods, and was very steep! Eventually, we came upon a ridge line where we could see the pinnacles in the distance! We continued on past a turn-off for the Pinnacles Hut, and headed up a bunch of stairs.

[![Bridge crossing on Kauaeranga Kauri Trail Pinnacles Walk](/assets/blog/coromandel-peninsula-part-1-hot-water-beach-and-pinnacles-walk/IMG_20190122_124649.jpg "Bridge crossing on Kauaeranga Kauri Trail Pinnacles Walk")](/assets/blog/coromandel-peninsula-part-1-hot-water-beach-and-pinnacles-walk/IMG_20190122_124649.jpg)

[![Lauren inside of a tree on the Kauaeranga Kauri Trail Pinnacles Walk](/assets/blog/coromandel-peninsula-part-1-hot-water-beach-and-pinnacles-walk/IMG_20190122_125524.jpg "Lauren inside of a tree on the Kauaeranga Kauri Trail Pinnacles Walk")](/assets/blog/coromandel-peninsula-part-1-hot-water-beach-and-pinnacles-walk/IMG_20190122_125524.jpg)

[![Lauren making her way up the Kauaeranga Kauri Trail Pinnacles Walk](/assets/blog/coromandel-peninsula-part-1-hot-water-beach-and-pinnacles-walk/IMG_20190122_141145.jpg "Lauren making her way up the Kauaeranga Kauri Trail Pinnacles Walk")](/assets/blog/coromandel-peninsula-part-1-hot-water-beach-and-pinnacles-walk/IMG_20190122_141145.jpg)

[![Stairs on the mountain of the Kauaeranga Kauri Trail Pinnacles Walk](/assets/blog/coromandel-peninsula-part-1-hot-water-beach-and-pinnacles-walk/IMG_20190122_150846.jpg "Stairs on the mountain of the Kauaeranga Kauri Trail Pinnacles Walk")](/assets/blog/coromandel-peninsula-part-1-hot-water-beach-and-pinnacles-walk/IMG_20190122_150846.jpg)

Eventually, we came to a ridge close to the end of the trail with a GORGEOUS viewpoint of the surrounding valley. After taking a few photos, we headed to a ladder leading toward the top of the pinnacles. There were several metal ladders and rungs in the rocks which lead to the end platform. The views were incredible, and we could even see the ocean in the distance! Gerrod and I enjoyed a granola bar lunch while enjoying the beautiful landscape before heading back down to our car.

[![Laddering to the top of the Kauaeranga Kauri Trail Pinnacles Walk](/assets/blog/coromandel-peninsula-part-1-hot-water-beach-and-pinnacles-walk/IMG_20190122_151512.jpg "Laddering to the top of the Kauaeranga Kauri Trail Pinnacles Walk")](/assets/blog/coromandel-peninsula-part-1-hot-water-beach-and-pinnacles-walk/IMG_20190122_151512.jpg)

[![Metal Rungs clambering up the Kauaeranga Kauri Trail Pinnacles Walk](/assets/blog/coromandel-peninsula-part-1-hot-water-beach-and-pinnacles-walk/IMG_20190122_151756.jpg "Metal Rungs clambering up the Kauaeranga Kauri Trail Pinnacles Walk")](/assets/blog/coromandel-peninsula-part-1-hot-water-beach-and-pinnacles-walk/IMG_20190122_151756.jpg)

[![Pinnacles at the top of the Kauaeranga Kauri Trail Pinnacles Walk](/assets/blog/coromandel-peninsula-part-1-hot-water-beach-and-pinnacles-walk/IMG_20190122_154636.jpg "Pinnacles at the top of the Kauaeranga Kauri Trail Pinnacles Walk")](/assets/blog/coromandel-peninsula-part-1-hot-water-beach-and-pinnacles-walk/IMG_20190122_154636.jpg)

[![A view from the top of the Kauaeranga Kauri Trail Pinnacles Walk](/assets/blog/coromandel-peninsula-part-1-hot-water-beach-and-pinnacles-walk/IMG_20190122_155040.jpg "A view from the top of the Kauaeranga Kauri Trail Pinnacles Walk")](/assets/blog/coromandel-peninsula-part-1-hot-water-beach-and-pinnacles-walk/IMG_20190122_155040.jpg)

[![A view of the ocean from the top of the Kauaeranga Kauri Trail Pinnacles Walk](/assets/blog/coromandel-peninsula-part-1-hot-water-beach-and-pinnacles-walk/IMG_20190122_152639.jpg "A view of the ocean from the top of the Kauaeranga Kauri Trail Pinnacles Walk")](/assets/blog/coromandel-peninsula-part-1-hot-water-beach-and-pinnacles-walk/IMG_20190122_152639.jpg)

The Pinnacles Walk is one of my favorite hikes we did in New Zealand! I wish we had more time to explore some of the other trails in the Kauaeranga Valley and dig a better hole at Hot Water Beach.

[![Lauren wondering who this Terry fellow is](/assets/blog/coromandel-peninsula-part-1-hot-water-beach-and-pinnacles-walk/IMG_20190122_170933.jpg "Lauren wondering who this Terry fellow is")](/assets/blog/coromandel-peninsula-part-1-hot-water-beach-and-pinnacles-walk/IMG_20190122_170933.jpg)

Until next time!

Lauren (and Gerrod)
]]></content:encoded>
            <author>bestseenonfoot@gmail.com (Lauren Schirtzinger)</author>
        </item>
        <item>
            <title><![CDATA[Auckland's West Coast]]></title>
            <link>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/aucklands-west-coast</link>
            <guid>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/aucklands-west-coast</guid>
            <pubDate>Wed, 06 Mar 2019 17:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
            <description><![CDATA[Hey everyone! Lauren here to tell you about our first two days in New Zealand exploring Auckland and the surrounding areas!...]]></description>
            <content:encoded><![CDATA[
Hey everyone! Lauren here to tell you about our first two days in New Zealand exploring Auckland and the surrounding areas!

## Arriving in Auckland

After a very late flight (or early) 2am flight leaving French Polynesia, we landed in Auckland, New Zealand around 7 in the morning...the next day! Despite only having a 4-5 hour flight, we crossed the international date line meaning we left on Friday and landed on Saturday. It was a little weird because there isn’t a huge time change, but we lost an entire day! At least we didn’t have jet lag.

## Customs and Duty Free Shopping

New Zealand requires that travelers entering their country must have an outbound flight. Customs was a breeze, despite having a few things to declare, including soil on our shoes and some leftover snacks.

Following the “loss” of my waterproof camera, we wanted to get something that we could actually take on any future diving we may do. After doing some research online, a Gopro would be our best option, and duty free shops seemed to be the cheapest place to purchase one. We ended up finding a Gopro Hero7 Black and a dive housing for 670 NZD, which was about equivalent to what we would have spent on Amazon at home. Expect way more videos to come!

## Rental Car Pick-Up

After buying our Gopro, we headed to Avis to pick up our rental car. We wanted to have a car the entire time we were in New Zealand, and had booked the rental car online as follows: pick up at the Auckland airport on January 19th and return to Christchurch on March 1st. For some reason the online booking system booked our car with the agent as follows: a January 19th pick up at the Auckland airport and a February 19th return to the Auckland airport.

Luckily, Avis easily sorted it out! We ended up with had two separate car rentals for the north and south island, returning our first car on February 8th at the ferry terminal in Wellington and picking up a new one in Picton on the south island. The total for our 6 week car rental was 1700 NZD, which is pretty painful to spend all at once. But this is actually around 28 USD per day, which is a pretty good price for a rental car!

[![Our rental car](/assets/blog/aucklands-west-coast/IMG_20190119_075653.jpg "Our rental car")](/assets/blog/aucklands-west-coast/IMG_20190119_075653.jpg)

Soon we were in our grey Toyota Yaris, which would be our trusty companion for the next 3 weeks. Gerrod had a little trouble adjusting to the opposite side of the car and road situation, which included accidentally turning on the windshield wipers rather than the turn signal several times.

[![Gerrod and Lauren preparing to explore New Zealand](/assets/blog/aucklands-west-coast/IMG_20190119_075659.jpg "Gerrod and Lauren preparing to explore New Zealand")](/assets/blog/aucklands-west-coast/IMG_20190119_075659.jpg)

## Relaxing and Magic

We stayed at a place about 18 km outside of Auckland called Fat Cat Backpackers/Travellers Community. It is a bit outside of the city, but we thought the description sounded interesting.

We spent most of the first day relaxing. We experimented with our new Gopro to figure out how to use it. While Gerrod was figuring out the Gopro, I was messing with my broken waterproof camera yet again. I was messing with it and all of a sudden...POOF! The lense made some struggling sounds but finally unstuck and turned on! My camera was MAGICALLY FIXED! Apparently we just had to buy an expensive Gopro before it would start working again.

## Fat Cat Travellers Community Experience

After relaxing, we decided to be social. There were tons of people hanging around the hostel from all over the world. We enjoyed a mostly potato based vegetarian dinner with everyone and chatted to them about their plans in New Zealand. After dinner we each drew from a bag an assigned helping task. Gerrod and I had to help clean up the kitchen after everyone was done eating. After dinner a bonfire was started, and we hung out with everyone by the fire.

[![Bonfire at Fat Cat Backpackers/Travellers Community](/assets/blog/aucklands-west-coast/IMG_20190119_225826.jpg "Bonfire at Fat Cat Backpackers/Travellers Community")](/assets/blog/aucklands-west-coast/IMG_20190119_225826.jpg)

Fat Cat was very much like a hippy traveler commune. It seemed like most people that were staying there were in New Zealand on working holiday visas, and many people there were volunteers part of the WWOOFing program (World Wide Opportunities on Organic Farms). Fat Cat had a compost shower, vegetable gardens, and communal vegetarian breakfast and dinner.

## Breakfast and Groceries

The next day we woke up around 8ish to partake in the included vegetarian hostel breakfast.They had some oatmeal and fruits, and had batter to make your own crepes. Gerrod and I failed and made crepe flavored blobs, which are still very tasty!

We stopped at a store we found online called Four Square to grab some lunch supplies and snacks, and headed towards Waitakere Ranges National Park on Auckland’s west coast!

## Mercer Bay Loop

We started with a trail I had read about online called the Mercer Bay Loop. Near the trailhead, there were several signs regarding that the area was an old air force radio station. Gerrod and I took the time to learn and read the signs before starting down the trail.

[![Mercer Bay Loop shoe cleaning station](/assets/blog/aucklands-west-coast/IMG_20190120_115836.jpg "Mercer Bay Loop shoe cleaning station")](/assets/blog/aucklands-west-coast/IMG_20190120_115836.jpg)

At the start of the trail there was a shoe cleaning station in order the prevent the spread of a local disease killing native kauri trees. There were some informational signs about the kauri dieback disease, and how to prevent the spread.

[![A view of Piha beach from Mercer Bay Loop](/assets/blog/aucklands-west-coast/IMG_20190120_120115.jpg "A view of Piha beach from Mercer Bay Loop")](/assets/blog/aucklands-west-coast/IMG_20190120_120115.jpg)

[![A view of the coast from Mercer Bay Loop](/assets/blog/aucklands-west-coast/IMG_20190120_120813.jpg "A view of the coast from Mercer Bay Loop")](/assets/blog/aucklands-west-coast/IMG_20190120_120813.jpg)

[![Mercer Bay Loop trail](/assets/blog/aucklands-west-coast/IMG_20190120_121117.jpg "Mercer Bay Loop trail")](/assets/blog/aucklands-west-coast/IMG_20190120_121117.jpg)

The track is a 2.7 kilometer loop trail that follows the Tasman Sea. Along the trail there were some informational signs about how the coast was the located of an ancient Maori village (the indigenous Polynesian people of New Zealand). The views of the coast were beautiful! The trail only took us about an hour, and soon we were cleaning our shoes again and off to the next place!

[![Mercer Bay Loop cliffside](/assets/blog/aucklands-west-coast/IMG_20190120_121708.jpg "Mercer Bay Loop cliffside")](/assets/blog/aucklands-west-coast/IMG_20190120_121708.jpg)

[![Maori sculpture on Mercer Bay Loop](/assets/blog/aucklands-west-coast/IMG_20190120_122229.jpg "Maori sculpture on Mercer Bay Loop")](/assets/blog/aucklands-west-coast/IMG_20190120_122229.jpg)

[Mercer Bay Loop](https://www.youtube.com/embed/A2rtAbGBcKw)

## Piha Beach

We then headed to Piha Beach! The beach was beautiful! The sand was a combination of normal tan sand, and black glittery sand which reflected in the sunlight. There were several warnings that the currents were very strong and to swim at your own risk. It seemed like everyone in the water was predominately surfers.

[![Lion’s Rock at Piha beach](/assets/blog/aucklands-west-coast/IMG_20190120_131300.jpg "Lion’s Rock at Piha beach")](/assets/blog/aucklands-west-coast/IMG_20190120_131300.jpg)

[![A good look at Piha beach](/assets/blog/aucklands-west-coast/IMG_20190120_131307.jpg "A good look at Piha beach")](/assets/blog/aucklands-west-coast/IMG_20190120_131307.jpg)

Gerrod and I spent time walking the entire beach, which took us a long time because it is over a mile and a half long! We also walked up to the top of an “island” called Lion’s Rock. There was a great view of the beach, and we had some snack lunch while enjoying the view before we hiked back down.

[![A view of Piha beach from atop Lion’s Rock](/assets/blog/aucklands-west-coast/IMG_20190120_134659.jpg "A view of Piha beach from atop Lion’s Rock")](/assets/blog/aucklands-west-coast/IMG_20190120_134659.jpg)

[![The other side of Piha beach from Lion’s Rock](/assets/blog/aucklands-west-coast/IMG_20190120_135251.jpg "The other side of Piha beach from Lion’s Rock")](/assets/blog/aucklands-west-coast/IMG_20190120_135251.jpg)

[![Shiny Piha beach](/assets/blog/aucklands-west-coast/IMG_20190120_141155.jpg "Shiny Piha beach")](/assets/blog/aucklands-west-coast/IMG_20190120_141155.jpg)

[Piha Beach and Lion's Rock](https://www.youtube.com/embed/tqQQ3z4T2GI)

## Kitekite Falls

Next, we headed towards a waterfall called Kitekite falls. At the start of the trail was a shoe cleaning station for the kauri dieback disease. The trail to the falls was 3.6km round trip, and lead to the bottom of the waterfall. The waterfall was beautiful and had a big pool at the bottom that people were swimming in. We noticed there were people at the top of the falls too, so we decided to check it out.

[![Kitekite falls](/assets/blog/aucklands-west-coast/IMG_20190120_161030.jpg "Kitekite falls")](/assets/blog/aucklands-west-coast/IMG_20190120_161030.jpg)

[![People swimming at the base of Kitekite falls](/assets/blog/aucklands-west-coast/IMG_20190120_161620.jpg "People swimming at the base of Kitekite falls")](/assets/blog/aucklands-west-coast/IMG_20190120_161620.jpg)

At the top there were pools that people were soaking in. Gerrod decided to get close to the edge but I was too chicken. After checking out the top of the falls we made our way back to our car and headed back to the hostel.

[![People hanging out at the top of Kitekite falls](/assets/blog/aucklands-west-coast/IMG_20190120_164010.jpg "People hanging out at the top of Kitekite falls")](/assets/blog/aucklands-west-coast/IMG_20190120_164010.jpg)

[![A look down Kitekite falls](/assets/blog/aucklands-west-coast/IMG_20190120_164445.jpg "A look down Kitekite falls")](/assets/blog/aucklands-west-coast/IMG_20190120_164445.jpg)

[Kitekite Falls](https://www.youtube.com/embed/hkKqSwRWLrs)

## End of the Night

Sunday nights at Fat Cat are pizza nights. The dinner lasted forever, since they were homemade pizzas and they could only cook one or two pizzas at a time for 20-30 people. But the pizzas were delicious! After eating, we drew for after dinner jobs again. I had to wash all of the dishes, and Gerrod had to show the cats love.

We had a great time easing ourselves into New Zealand around Auckland. From here we planned to drive to the Coromandel Peninsula, which we will talk about in our next post!

Until next time!

Lauren (and Gerrod)
]]></content:encoded>
            <author>bestseenonfoot@gmail.com (Lauren Schirtzinger)</author>
        </item>
        <item>
            <title><![CDATA[Scuba Diving in Mo'orea]]></title>
            <link>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/scuba-diving-in-moorea</link>
            <guid>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/scuba-diving-in-moorea</guid>
            <pubDate>Mon, 04 Mar 2019 17:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
            <description><![CDATA[Hey everyone! Lauren here to tell you about our Scuba adventures in Mo’orea. The diving here was incredible!...]]></description>
            <content:encoded><![CDATA[
Hey everyone! Lauren here to tell you about our Scuba adventures in Mo’orea. The diving here was incredible! As I mentioned in a [previous post](/posts/moorea-french-polynesia-a-budget-edition-part-1), we booked with a company called [Mo’orea Blue Diving](http://www.mooreabluediving.com/welcome.html). The dive shop is based at Hotel Manava Beach Resort & Spa Moorea, which was about a 30-40 minute bike ride from our Airbnb.

## Diving Day One

### Wet Bike Ride

On the day of our first dive trip, Gerrod and I Woke up at 5:30am to have breakfast and get ready to bike to the dive shop. We were supposed to be to the [Mo’orea Blue Diving](http://www.mooreabluediving.com/welcome.html) shop by 7:30, and Gerrod and I had not used the shortcut route through the Sofitel resort that we had heard about so we weren’t sure how long the bike ride to the shop would be.

The shortcut was really easy to find, and made the ride much easier. Until it started absolutely downpouring rain to the point we could barely see. Despite the rain, the ride only took us about 35 minutes.

### Getting Ready

After we arrived at the shop, we got fitted with wetsuits and fins and boarded our dive boat. The plan was to do two dives! There were three other people diving with us this day: a man from Minnesota, a man from Denmark, and a woman who spoke French, so probably from France, or Canada.

[![Gerrod ready to dive!](/assets/blog/scuba-diving-in-moorea/P1110078.JPG "Gerrod ready to dive!")](/assets/blog/scuba-diving-in-moorea/P1110078.JPG)

[![Gerrod and Lauren excited to dive!](/assets/blog/scuba-diving-in-moorea/P1110084.JPG "Gerrod and Lauren excited to dive!")](/assets/blog/scuba-diving-in-moorea/P1110084.JPG)

Our first dive is what the dive master called the “shark dive”. Our group was split into two based on experience. It was me, Gerrod, and the man from Minnesota in one group, and the others in a second group.

[![Gerrod about to dive and masked up](/assets/blog/scuba-diving-in-moorea/P1110095.JPG "Gerrod about to dive and masked up")](/assets/blog/scuba-diving-in-moorea/P1110095.JPG)

### First Dive

As soon as we dropped in the water we could see lemon sharks! The visibility was fairly good, with small reef covered hills in view in every direction. We spent some time near the boat just watching the various lemon sharks swimming around us. The man from Minnesota was having a little bit of trouble keeping buoyancy, so the dive masters motioned for us to go with the other group.

[![Gerrod descending the depths](/assets/blog/scuba-diving-in-moorea/P1110096.JPG "Gerrod descending the depths")](/assets/blog/scuba-diving-in-moorea/P1110096.JPG)

We began exploring around, stumbling upon a few sleeping green sea turtles. Our dive master found a clown fish egg nest on an anemone! It was so cool to see the pair of clownfish defending the eggs. We also saw a black tip reef shark swimming across the reef.

[Lemon shark swimming in Mo'orea French Polynesia](https://www.youtube.com/embed/8CfyBvk7VyE)

[![Lemon shark and other fish](/assets/blog/scuba-diving-in-moorea/P1110117.JPG "Lemon shark and other fish")](/assets/blog/scuba-diving-in-moorea/P1110117.JPG)

[![2 Lemon sharks](/assets/blog/scuba-diving-in-moorea/P1110141.JPG "2 Lemon sharks")](/assets/blog/scuba-diving-in-moorea/P1110141.JPG)

[![Another lemon shark](/assets/blog/scuba-diving-in-moorea/P1110142.JPG "Another lemon shark")](/assets/blog/scuba-diving-in-moorea/P1110142.JPG)

[![Lauren following a lemon shark](/assets/blog/scuba-diving-in-moorea/P1110148.JPG "Lauren following a lemon shark")](/assets/blog/scuba-diving-in-moorea/P1110148.JPG)

[![Lauren posing with a lemon shark](/assets/blog/scuba-diving-in-moorea/P1110149.JPG "Lauren posing with a lemon shark")](/assets/blog/scuba-diving-in-moorea/P1110149.JPG)

[![Lemon sharks back with some fishy friends](/assets/blog/scuba-diving-in-moorea/P1110179.JPG "Lemon sharks back with some fishy friends")](/assets/blog/scuba-diving-in-moorea/P1110179.JPG)

[![Lemon shark swimming under us](/assets/blog/scuba-diving-in-moorea/P1110191.JPG "Lemon shark swimming under us")](/assets/blog/scuba-diving-in-moorea/P1110191.JPG)

### Surface Interval

Following our first dive, we boated closer to shore for our surface interval. For those of you that don’t dive, a surface interval is time that a diver stays out of the water between dives. During this time we had some hot tea, cookies, and dried ginger and papaya. We chatted with our fellow divers about travels and good things to do around the island.

[![Rough waters during the dive](/assets/blog/scuba-diving-in-moorea/P1110195.JPG "Rough waters during the dive")](/assets/blog/scuba-diving-in-moorea/P1110195.JPG)

[![Our trusty dive ship](/assets/blog/scuba-diving-in-moorea/P1110197.JPG "Our trusty dive ship")](/assets/blog/scuba-diving-in-moorea/P1110197.JPG)

### Second Dive

On our second dive, there were coral canyons that we explored. There were TONS of sleepy sea turtles. The coral was beautiful. I was enjoying taking underwater photos, when all of a sudden my camera shut off and wouldn’t turn back on! We were a little below the depth rating, but I was still a little worried and had trouble enjoying the rest of my dive.

[Green Turtle swimming in Mo'orea French Polynesia](https://www.youtube.com/embed/QfoTlNcvoKU)

[![Green sea turtle!](/assets/blog/scuba-diving-in-moorea/P1110207.JPG "Green sea turtle!")](/assets/blog/scuba-diving-in-moorea/P1110207.JPG)

### Back to the Dive Shop

After our dive, we headed back to the shop. Gerrod and I filled out our dive logs and had them stamped, and then talked to them about potentially diving more. Gerrod felt the pressure a little in his sinuses, and thought it would be better to wait a few days just in case he was getting sick. We booked our next dives for three days later, and said our goodbyes!

### Poop is ALWAYS Funny

After leaving the dive shop, Gerrod and I decided to pretend to be fancy and relax on the resort beach. We were laying out in lounge chairs enjoying the sun when all of a sudden a sea bird flew overhead and pooped ALL OVER Gerrod. I had a few splatters, but he definitely took the majority of the “blast”. It probably pooped on us because it knew we didn’t belong there!

[![Gerrod after getting pooped on by a bird](/assets/blog/moorea-french-polynesia-a-budget-edition-part-1/IMG_20190111_121211.jpg "Gerrod after getting pooped on by a bird")](/assets/blog/moorea-french-polynesia-a-budget-edition-part-1/IMG_20190111_121211.jpg)

## Diving Day Two

A few days later, we were ready to dive again! We woke up around 5:30 am again to get ready for diving. After taking our time getting ready, we again hopped on our bikes to head to the shop. Melody even gave us bananas for the road before we left! This time, it didn’t rain at all on our bike ride! Apparently bananas are good luck.

### At the Dive Shop

When we got to the dive shop, we found out it was just us diving this day so we essentially had a private tour! Gerrod and I enjoyed some espresso while we waited for our dive masters to get ready!

[![Mo’orea Blue Diving Map](/assets/blog/moorea-french-polynesia-a-budget-edition-part-1/IMG_20190111_071815.jpg "Mo’orea Blue Diving Map")](/assets/blog/moorea-french-polynesia-a-budget-edition-part-1/IMG_20190111_071815.jpg)

We had different guides than our first day diving. Our guides, Fred and Stephan had just got back from vacation and were asking us about visibility on our prior dives and checked which sites we already did to make sure we didn’t go to the same ones

### Dive One

The first dive was yet again a shark dive. The visibility wasn’t quite as good as our first diving day, but we still still saw so much! We saw three white tip sharks, including one very small one. We also saw three lemon sharks! There were two female and one male lemon shark. Towards the end of the dive, one of the large sharks (nearly 3 meters long) kept circling the area so we had plenty of time to watch it. We also saw a hawksbill sea turtle, and several more sleepy green sea turtles. One of our guides was even an underwater photographer, and he was snapping photos with his big camera the entire time.

[![Gerrod and Lauren posing with the green turtle](/assets/blog/scuba-diving-in-moorea/P1110218.JPG "Gerrod and Lauren posing with the green turtle")](/assets/blog/scuba-diving-in-moorea/P1110218.JPG)

[![Gerrod and Lauren float above the green turtle](/assets/blog/scuba-diving-in-moorea/P1110220.JPG "Gerrod and Lauren float above the green turtle")](/assets/blog/scuba-diving-in-moorea/P1110220.JPG)

[![Green turtle](/assets/blog/scuba-diving-in-moorea/P1110232.JPG "Green turtle")](/assets/blog/scuba-diving-in-moorea/P1110232.JPG)

When we were done with the dive, we headed back to the boat. I surfaced first, and when Gerrod finally surfaced I noticed he had a TON of blood in his mask. His nose has started bleeding as he surfaced! He said he felt the pressure as he was surfacing, and then as soon as he was above the water it all released into a large nose bleed!

### Dive Two

On the way to our second dive site, we spotted dolphins swimming in the water! I was really hoping we would see them underwater, but the dive master said you don’t usually see them diving.

Despite not seeing any dolphins, the second dive was also amazing. There was a fair amount of current pulling us with the waves, which was something I hadn’t experienced too much with past dives I have done. On our dive we saw a black tip reef shark, and more sleepy turtles including both a hawksbill sea turtle and a few green sea turtles. There was SOO much coral everywhere, and the sun even popped out so we could see how colorful the reef was. Both dives had so many fish, it was truly incredible.

[![Corals at Mo'orea](/assets/blog/scuba-diving-in-moorea/P1110235.JPG "Corals at Mo'orea")](/assets/blog/scuba-diving-in-moorea/P1110235.JPG)

### Time to Pay

After we got back to the dive shop, it was time to pay for our dives. I also wanted to see our photographer’s pictures. They were incredible! I have never had a professional photographer dive with me, and Fred offered us all of his photos for a reasonable price. Since I recently had broken my underwater camera, and since the pictures were so good, we bought them. (Photo credit for our Diving Day Two photos: [Scubeyes Underwater Photography](https://www.facebook.com/scubeyesTAHITI))

We then paid for our dives. I had originally read about Mo’orea Blue Diving on a blog called [X Days in Y](https://xdaysiny.com/moorea-travel-guide-french-polynesia/4/), which offered a 10% discount on dives with Mo’orea Blue Diving. It ended up costing us 50,000 Francs for a total of 8 dives (4 each). Totally worth it!

Until next time!

Lauren (and Gerrod)
]]></content:encoded>
            <author>bestseenonfoot@gmail.com (Lauren Schirtzinger)</author>
        </item>
        <item>
            <title><![CDATA[Mo'orea French Polynesia: A Budget Edition Part 2]]></title>
            <link>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/moorea-french-polynesia-a-budget-edition-part-2</link>
            <guid>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/moorea-french-polynesia-a-budget-edition-part-2</guid>
            <pubDate>Sun, 03 Mar 2019 17:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
            <description><![CDATA[Hey everyone! Lauren here to tell you about our last few days on the beautiful island of Mo’orea...]]></description>
            <content:encoded><![CDATA[
Hey everyone! Lauren here to tell you about our last few days on the beautiful island of Mo’orea!

## Driving Mo’orea in a Day

On our last full day in Mo’orea, our Airbnb host’s boyfriend, Moehau, offered to drive us around the island. Moehau spoke very little English, but did a great job showing us around the island and was so welcoming!

### 'Āfareaitu Waterfall

Our first location around the island was a waterfall trek: 'Āfareaitu Waterfall. The hike was fairly steep but wasn’t too long and the waterfall was just beautiful! We thought we were getting lucky with the rain, but as soon as we got to the waterfall it started raining. We snapped some photos and began our hike back. The hike back was fairly slick because of the rain, but Moehau told us about some native fruits on the way back which made it super interesting.

[![Lauren at 'Āfareaitu Waterfall](/assets/blog/moorea-french-polynesia-a-budget-edition-part-2/IMG_20190115_095345.jpg "Lauren at 'Āfareaitu Waterfall")](/assets/blog/moorea-french-polynesia-a-budget-edition-part-2/IMG_20190115_095345.jpg)

### Driving

When we got back in car and began our way around the island. Moehau told us about some of the mountains around the island and stopped by a local church called Papetoai Church. He pointed out a rock outside the church and said it was a Polynesian artifact from a very long time ago and said something regarding if people were taller than the rock they were decapitated! I tried doing research on the subject since Moehau’s English is a little rusty, but could not find any additional information.

[![Driving around the Mo'orea](/assets/blog/moorea-french-polynesia-a-budget-edition-part-2/IMG_20190115_104900.jpg "Driving around the Mo'orea")](/assets/blog/moorea-french-polynesia-a-budget-edition-part-2/IMG_20190115_104900.jpg)

### Rotui Juice Factory

Next we stopped by the [Manutea Tahiti - Rotui Juice Factory & Distillery](https://tahititourisme.pf/en-pf/islands-and-archipelagos/the-society-islands/moorea/what-to-do-in-moorea/tasting-the-juices-and-spirits-of-moorea/)! They offered us several tasty fresh juices to sample, and a few alcoholic cocktails. Gerrod and I bought ourselves a delicious no sugar added banana and vanilla juice and a fruity cocktail called Tahiti drink. They also had several pineapple plants growing outside. I had never seen so many pineapples growing!

[![Lauren tasting juice at Rotui Juice Factory & Distillery](/assets/blog/moorea-french-polynesia-a-budget-edition-part-2/IMG_20190115_111519.jpg "Lauren tasting juice at Rotui Juice Factory & Distillery")](/assets/blog/moorea-french-polynesia-a-budget-edition-part-2/IMG_20190115_111519.jpg)

[![Lauren found a cute pineapple at Rotui Juice Factory & Distillery](/assets/blog/moorea-french-polynesia-a-budget-edition-part-2/IMG_20190115_112440.jpg "Lauren found a cute pineapple at Rotui Juice Factory & Distillery")](/assets/blog/moorea-french-polynesia-a-budget-edition-part-2/IMG_20190115_112440.jpg)

### Belvedere Lookout

After sampling the tasty juices, we headed up the mountain to go to a lookout point called the Belvedere Lookout. On the way we stopped at stopped at an agricultural school called [Lycee Agricole Opunohu](https://www.etablissement-opunohu.com/le-lyc%C3%A9e-agricole) and tried some fresh fruit jams.

We also stopped at an archaeological site called Marae Titiroa. It consisted of stacks of rocks that were ancient temples or ritual sites for the Polynesian people.

[![Marae Titiroa site](/assets/blog/moorea-french-polynesia-a-budget-edition-part-2/IMG_20190115_120043.jpg "Marae Titiroa site")](/assets/blog/moorea-french-polynesia-a-budget-edition-part-2/IMG_20190115_120043.jpg)

The Belvedere Lookout was stunning! Moehau also pointed out the mountains around us, and showed us how one of the mountains in view known as Mount Tohivea, is on the back of the 50 Franc Polynesie Francaise coin.

[![Bike trails near Belvedere Lookout](/assets/blog/moorea-french-polynesia-a-budget-edition-part-2/IMG_20190115_121139.jpg "Bike trails near Belvedere Lookout")](/assets/blog/moorea-french-polynesia-a-budget-edition-part-2/IMG_20190115_121139.jpg)

[![Panorama near Belvedere Lookout](/assets/blog/moorea-french-polynesia-a-budget-edition-part-2/IMG_20190115_120930-PANO.jpg "Panorama near Belvedere Lookout")](/assets/blog/moorea-french-polynesia-a-budget-edition-part-2/IMG_20190115_120930-PANO.jpg)

### Beautiful Viewpoint

Next, Moehau took us to what he called the best viewpoint on the island. There was a very steep hike up to it and Gerrod and I were dying! It was so hot and I was breathing so heavily. Moehau was training for a 51k race and was walking so fast that I felt pretty out of shape.

[![Steep hike to the hidden Beautiful Viewpoint](/assets/blog/moorea-french-polynesia-a-budget-edition-part-2/IMG_20190115_132905.jpg "Steep hike to the hidden Beautiful Viewpoint")](/assets/blog/moorea-french-polynesia-a-budget-edition-part-2/IMG_20190115_132905.jpg)

When we finally got to the top, the view was breathtaking! You could see along the whole coast and could see the edge of the coral reef by the color contrast of the turquoise water and deep blue ocean. Moehau also told us we hiked up the hill faster than past guests he had taken there, which made me feel a bit better. I tried to find the hike online afterwards, but was unable to find the name of the viewpoint so all I can offer is coordinates to the point for those curious: -17.496206, -149.901623

[![Coast line view from the hidden Beautiful Viewpoint](/assets/blog/moorea-french-polynesia-a-budget-edition-part-2/IMG_7970.JPG "Coast line view from the hidden Beautiful Viewpoint")](/assets/blog/moorea-french-polynesia-a-budget-edition-part-2/IMG_7970.JPG)

[![Gerrod and Lauren at the hidden Beautiful Viewpoint](/assets/blog/moorea-french-polynesia-a-budget-edition-part-2/IMG_7971.JPG "Gerrod and Lauren at the hidden Beautiful Viewpoint")](/assets/blog/moorea-french-polynesia-a-budget-edition-part-2/IMG_7971.JPG)

### Tipaniers Beach

After the difficult, but short hike, Gerrod and I walked across the street to a beautiful beach called Tipaniers Beach. The beach is located at Hotel les Tipaniers, and is very picturesque. Moehau meanwhile ran up and down the steep hill to train for his race.

At the beach Gerrod and I snorkeled and relaxed on the sand. There was also a dock that we walked out on to take some photos. Moehau picked us up from the beach a few hours later!

### Dolphins and Turtles

On our way back to the Airbnb, Moehau took us to the InterContinental Moorea Resort & Spa to see some dolphins. The InterContinental is home to the [Moorea Dolphin Center](https://www.mooreadolphin.com/en/). There were three bottlenose dolphins swimming around near the hotel. The dolphins were there from various places around the world!

Nearby to the dolphins, there were several sea turtles at the Turtle Care Center. The Turtle Care Center accepts sick, injured, and illegally transported turtles and attempts to rehabilitate them, hopefully, to be returned to the sea.

[![Stone turtle by the Turtle Care Center](/assets/blog/moorea-french-polynesia-a-budget-edition-part-2/IMG_20190115_164543.jpg "Stone turtle by the Turtle Care Center")](/assets/blog/moorea-french-polynesia-a-budget-edition-part-2/IMG_20190115_164543.jpg)

[![Baby turtles at the Turtle Care Center](/assets/blog/moorea-french-polynesia-a-budget-edition-part-2/IMG_20190115_164859.jpg "Baby turtles at the Turtle Care Center")](/assets/blog/moorea-french-polynesia-a-budget-edition-part-2/IMG_20190115_164859.jpg)

After stopping by to see the dolphins and turtles, we ended our driving adventure and headed back to our Airbnb!

## Temae Beach... Again

We went to Temae Beach several times during our stay on Mo’orea. It was very close to our hostel and had AMAZING snorkeling. Our last full day on the there was particularly notable. The adventure started with my bike tire being completely flat. Gerrod and I pumped it up, and then headed to the beach.

When we arrived at the beach, the sun was shining, and it was absolutely beautiful. We spent some time snorkeling, and then headed to sit on the beach and have some snacks. As we were sitting on the beach we saw a darkish figure moving under the water! I immediately grabbed my snorkel mask and tried to find what kind of animal it was.

After searching for a bit, and looking to Gerrod to see if he could see it, I found a large stingray! There ended up being two different stingrays in the water, and it was amazing seeing them swimming along the sand.

As we went to head back to our Airbnb, we realized my bike tire was again completely flat...This time we had to walk our bikes all the way back to our Airbnbs! We told Melody about the bike tire, and they had it fixed up by the next morning!

## Goodbye Mo’orea

After a quick visit to Temae beach in the morning, Gerrod and I packed our things and prepared to leave the island. Since our flight was at 1am, we decided to just take one of the last ferries back to Tahiti since our Airbnb host said we didn’t need to check out at any particular time. After a quick visit to Temae beach in the morning, Gerrod and I packed our things and prepared to leave the island.

[![Airbnb pup helping us pack](/assets/blog/moorea-french-polynesia-a-budget-edition-part-2/IMG_20190117_152347.jpg "Airbnb pup helping us pack")](/assets/blog/moorea-french-polynesia-a-budget-edition-part-2/IMG_20190117_152347.jpg)

Gerrod and I decided to walk to the ferry terminal this time to save on money and it was so hot and our bags were so heavy! The walk took about 30 minutes, and I was exhausted. We bought two tickets for the 4:45pm ferry which cost us 3000 Francs. Soon we were on the boat and had a relaxing cruise back to Tahiti.

[![Tahiti from the ship port windows](/assets/blog/moorea-french-polynesia-a-budget-edition-part-2/IMG_20190117_171219.jpg "Tahiti from the ship port windows")](/assets/blog/moorea-french-polynesia-a-budget-edition-part-2/IMG_20190117_171219.jpg)

[![Gerrod and Lauren chilling on the ferry](/assets/blog/moorea-french-polynesia-a-budget-edition-part-2/IMG_20190117_171224.jpg "Gerrod and Lauren chilling on the ferry")](/assets/blog/moorea-french-polynesia-a-budget-edition-part-2/IMG_20190117_171224.jpg)

## Leaving French Polynesia

After arriving back to the Aremiti Ferry port on Tahiti, Gerrod and I found a taxi. There were several right next to the terminal, and we found one to take us to the airport for 2000 Francs.

We got there around 6pm and we found that all the things were... closed. We asked some airport information people and they told told us we couldn’t check in to our flight until 11pm! Luckily, Gerrod and I are getting very good at wasting time. We ended up eating McDonald's for dinner since it was the only thing open, and waited in an exterior atrium room until we could check in for flight. After we checked in, we headed to the Priority Pass lounge and had some snacks while we waited to board.

Until next time!

Lauren (and Gerrod)
]]></content:encoded>
            <author>bestseenonfoot@gmail.com (Lauren Schirtzinger)</author>
        </item>
        <item>
            <title><![CDATA[Mo'orea French Polynesia: A Budget Edition Part 1]]></title>
            <link>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/moorea-french-polynesia-a-budget-edition-part-1</link>
            <guid>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/moorea-french-polynesia-a-budget-edition-part-1</guid>
            <pubDate>Sat, 02 Mar 2019 17:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
            <description><![CDATA[Hey everyone! Lauren here to tell you about our time on the island of Mo’orea in French Polynesia...]]></description>
            <content:encoded><![CDATA[
Hey everyone! Lauren here to tell you about our time on the island of Mo’orea in French Polynesia. This was not a typical backpacker destination, but during my trip planning stage while I was looking into cheap ways to get to New Zealand, I read that flying to French Polynesia and then to New Zealand was a cost effective way to see the islands.

I also read that the Scuba diving was good and after I stumbled upon a cheap flight to Tahiti, we booked it! It was actually the first flight we booked out of our entire trip!

## Finally to the Island

I was so excited to be headed to Mo’orea that I convinced Gerrod we should sit on the top of the boat to get a good outdoor view of the island during our 30-45 minute ferry ride. This resulted in a sunburn. But the views were beautiful!

## To the Airbnb We Go

We originally intended to walk to our Airbnb from the ferry terminal, but after getting off we realized there was no good way to walk. So we found ourselves a taxi, and our driver helped us find our Airbnb and even talked to our host Melody on the phone since we weren’t sure of how to get in when we finally arrived. The 10 minute taxi ride cost 2000 Franc, which is quite expensive.

There was no one home except our host’s very cute dogs. Luckily we figured out where our room was through the Airbnb message feature, and soon our host’s boyfriend was home to show us where the bathroom was and properly introduce us to the dogs and our home for the next 8 nights.

[![Lauren with the Airbnb pup](/assets/blog/moorea-french-polynesia-a-budget-edition-part-1/IMG_20190111_150400.jpg "Lauren with the Airbnb pup")](/assets/blog/moorea-french-polynesia-a-budget-edition-part-1/IMG_20190111_150400.jpg)

## Trying to Find Food: Biking Through Rain

Our Airbnb provided bicycles to get around the island, but after Gerrod and I hopped on the bikes to find food after settling in we quickly realized that they were nowhere near nice road bikes. We headed towards the closest restaurant I could find on Google, and very soon after leaving it started pouring rain. The road also turned to be a very long uphill, which is when we realized both of our tires were kind of flat.

Riding uphill, with flat tires, through a downpour of rain isn’t very enjoyable. We ended up walking our bikes to the top of the hill, where there was the Toatea lookout. It kind of stopped raining, which resulted in beautiful views of the foggy island and turquoise blue water. We could even see the fancy over-the-water bungalows at the Sofitel Mo’orea Resort.

The restaurant ended up not existing, so we kept riding eventually stumbling on a golf course restaurant. Lunch there cost 4000 Francs, which is quite a lot so Gerrod and I decided to buy groceries at a store near the ferry terminal before heading back to our Airbnb. We bought snacks, breakfast, and dinner supplies which cost us almost half of the cost of one meal! After we got home, we found a bike pump, which greatly improved the bike ride comfort level.

## Booking Scuba and Temae Beach

The next day after making breakfast and waiting for the rain to stop, we headed to a dive shop to book some Scuba diving! We went with a company called [Mo’orea Blue Diving](https://www.mooreabluediving.com/welcome.html) , which was based at Hotel Manava Beach Resort & Spa Moorea. We booked a dive for the next day, which I will talk about in another post since I think our dive experience deserves its own post. The woman at the dive shop also told us about a wonderful shortcut through the Sofitel resort so that we could skip the giant hill when we biked! Woo!

[![Mo’orea Blue Diving Map](/assets/blog/moorea-french-polynesia-a-budget-edition-part-1/IMG_20190111_071815.jpg "Mo’orea Blue Diving Map")](/assets/blog/moorea-french-polynesia-a-budget-edition-part-1/IMG_20190111_071815.jpg)

[![Gerrod after getting pooped on by a bird](/assets/blog/moorea-french-polynesia-a-budget-edition-part-1/IMG_20190111_121211.jpg "Gerrod after getting pooped on by a bird")](/assets/blog/moorea-french-polynesia-a-budget-edition-part-1/IMG_20190111_121211.jpg)

After booking our dives, we headed to Temae Beach. Temae Beach is a public beach next to the Sofitel resort. When we arrived at the beach, we started to chain up our bikes and prepare to snorkel when it started down pouring.

Gerrod and I hid under a tree, and made some sandwiches for lunch. After the rain slowed down, we decided to snorkel even though we weren’t sure the rain was done. The water was very warm, and there was some lovely shallow coral between the beach and the resort! We watched some of the fish before getting out to relax on the beach. Soon after relaxing we headed back to our Airbnb to make dinner and hang out with the dogs and finally meet our Airbnb host.

## Lagoonarium

A guy on our dive, suggested going to a place called [Lagoonarium](https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g309685-d2141252-Reviews-Lagoonarium-Moorea_Society_Islands.html) for good snorkeling, so the day after we dove, Gerrod and I headed out on our bikes! So far it had rained almost every time we got on our bikes, but thankfully the rain held off this time. The Lagoonarium is located on a very small island called "Motu Ahi" in the middle of the lagoon on the east coast of Moorea.
After we arrived at the boat dock for the Lagoonarium, we paid the 3900 Franc per person fee and waited for our boat to take us across to the tiny island. The Lagoonarium is located on a very small island called "Motu Ahi" in the middle of the lagoon on the east coast of Moorea.

After we arrived, we were greeted and shown to our own private hut for the day and told about the guided fish feedings at 11:30am and 2pm. There was also kayaks that we could use, and a main building with free tea and coffee!

[![Gerrod enjoying the hut at Lagoonarium](/assets/blog/moorea-french-polynesia-a-budget-edition-part-1/IMG_7912.JPG "Gerrod enjoying the hut at Lagoonarium")](/assets/blog/moorea-french-polynesia-a-budget-edition-part-1/IMG_7912.JPG)

[![Lauren at the beach at Lagoonarium](/assets/blog/moorea-french-polynesia-a-budget-edition-part-1/IMG_7930.JPG "Lauren at the beach at Lagoonarium")](/assets/blog/moorea-french-polynesia-a-budget-edition-part-1/IMG_7930.JPG)

### Fish Feeding Time

Gerrod and I arrived around 11am, so we hopped in the water and snorkeled around the designated area until feeding time. The feeding started with our masks off near shore. The man working at the Lagoonarium fed bread to the all the fish until there was a huge swarm near us. He had smaller bait fish that he was feeding to sting rays. They were swimming right up to him, and he even guided them to swim up against us! The sting rays would slide against us and were so slimy.

We then put our masks on and looked into the water near the shore. There were tons of fish and even a bunch of smaller black tip reef sharks. He led the rays to us again so we could see them swim under the water, and had them rub against us again.

We then progressed to deeper water to end the feeding before getting free time to snorkel, kayak, or relax on the beach. I would have photos of all of this, except I took my waterproof camera a little deeper than recommended on our dives the day before and it jammed and broke! (temporarily...the lens was stuck and after shaking it and repeatedly messing with it for a weeks, it magically started working again).

### Snorkeling

The snorkeling was amazing! There was coral everywhere, tons of giant clams, and fish and black tipped reef sharks were swimming all around us. After snorkeling for awhile we went to our hut for our gourmet peanut butter sandwich lunch. Our guide also brought us a delicious salad to enjoy!

### Lunch and Kayaking

After our lunch, we enjoyed the ocean views until it started sprinkling a bit. We decided to make the most of it and went kayaking. Gerrod’s kayak was not very nice, so after kayaking around I decided to snorkel and let Gerrod use my kayak. We eventually started playing around having Gerrod tow me on the kayak while I snorkeling in the water.

[![Kayaking off the coast of Mo'orea near Lagoonarium](/assets/blog/moorea-french-polynesia-a-budget-edition-part-1/IMG_20190112_153054.jpg "Kayaking off the coast of Mo'orea near Lagoonarium")](/assets/blog/moorea-french-polynesia-a-budget-edition-part-1/IMG_20190112_153054.jpg)

### Second Feeding and Back to Airbnb

The 2nd feeding was very similar to the first, and was still a magical experience. After the 2nd feeding, we snorkeled a bit and swam through a small underwater tunnel on the reef. Not too long after, Gerrod and I headed back to shore to go back to our Airbnb. There was a total downpour on our ride back, but we pushed through the rain and even stopped at the grocery store on our way back!

## Polynesian Feast and Show

We asked our Airbnb where would be a good place to go to get a traditional Polynesian feast on the island. To our surprise they told us one of the resorts! So Gerrod and I stopped at the [Hotel Sofitel Moorea Ia Ora Beach Resort](https://www.sofitel-moorea-kiaora.com/) and discovered that they do a feast with a show on Sunday nights.

After a relaxing day spent sleeping in and stopping by Temae Beach yet again for some snorkeling, we cleaned ourselves up and headed out on our bikes to the Sofitel.

The dinner started at 6:30pm, and was very expensive (8800 Francs per person, which is nearly 80 USD). There were long buffet tables with an assortment of foods set out, and a live performance on the patio. The performance was hard to see from the table. It was raining outside which meant it was difficult to find a place to watch the performers without blocking someone else’s view of the show.

[![Gerrod and Lauren with the resort performers](/assets/blog/moorea-french-polynesia-a-budget-edition-part-1/IMG_20190113_201201.jpg "Gerrod and Lauren with the resort performers")](/assets/blog/moorea-french-polynesia-a-budget-edition-part-1/IMG_20190113_201201.jpg)

Gerrod and I both agree that the food was just okay. We have both had better fish meals, and it was nothing spectacular. There were a few things that were very tasty, including some tasty mussels and pig roast. The desserts were the best part, including fresh fruit ice cream and homemade crepes. The meal was incredibly filling at least, but we both felt it was not worth the expense. Even just a glass of water cost an additional 770 Francs which is a little more than 7 USD!

We did both feel fancy after spending our time riding our bikes around and not having any air conditioning. The show was also very good despite being hard to view properly! Our ride back was through the dark during quite heavy rain. I strapped my flashlight to my bike and Gerrod had a headlamp. Probably not the safest bike ride but we made it!

Our Airbnb host’s boyfriend has lived on the island his entire life and offered to drive us around the island for the day! Since we got to see so much we decided that we could not fit it all into this one post, so stay tuned for part 2!

Until next time!
]]></content:encoded>
            <author>bestseenonfoot@gmail.com (Lauren Schirtzinger)</author>
        </item>
        <item>
            <title><![CDATA[Rough Start to Part 2 of Our Round-The-World Trip]]></title>
            <link>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/rough-start-to-part-2-of-our-round-the-world-trip</link>
            <guid>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/rough-start-to-part-2-of-our-round-the-world-trip</guid>
            <pubDate>Tue, 26 Feb 2019 17:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
            <description><![CDATA[Hey everyone! Lauren here to tell you about the rough start to our round-the-world trip...]]></description>
            <content:encoded><![CDATA[
Hey everyone! Lauren here to tell you about the rough start to our round-the-world trip as we headed to French Polynesia. Traveling doesn’t always go as planned! In this case though, there may have also been a lack of proper planning

## Getting to French Polynesia

Of course, getting to French Polynesia, the first destination on the second “half” of our around-the-world trip went anything but smooth. Our flight to French Polynesia departed from Columbus at 8:15am, and thanks to Gerrod’s mom being off work due to the lovely government shutdown, we didn’t have to look for someone to drive us to the airport.

As always, the Columbus airport wasn’t very busy, and it seemed like we were landing to our first layover destination, Chicago, in no time. But after finding our gate for our second flight to San Francisco, we soon heard an announcement that the flight would be delayed by a few hours. Gerrod and I realized that this delay would cause us to miss our flight from San Fran to Pape’ete, French Polynesia, so we headed over to the United help desk to figure things out.

The United agent was very helpful, but there was no easy solution. It seemed like there was no available flights from San Francisco to French Polynesia that we could hop on until the next day. It took 45 minutes to find a solution, and we ended up changing our flight from Chicago to go to Los Angeles, and then we would join a Delta Airline flight to Tahiti from there. This meant that instead of arriving in Tahiti at 6pm on January 8th like we expected, we would be arriving at 7am on January 9th.

We landed in LAX around 3pm and our next flight wasn’t until around midnight. LAX is so huge that it took quite some time to walk through the airport to the international terminal, track down a place to print our new boarding passes, and go through security.

We made our way to the lovely Korean Air Lounge for free food and drinks (thanks Chase Sapphire for the Priority Pass lounge access!). Here we cancelled our first Tahiti Airbnb since we would be arriving the morning after planned. I also napped in the lounge, and we had some dinner at PF Changs since there was a discount with the Priority Pass. We couldn’t find our flight gate for awhile, but eventually we tracked it down and boarded our plane! We were both exhausted, but happy to finally be on our way!

[![Lauren in the Korean Air Lounge at LAX](/assets/blog/rough-start-to-part-2-of-our-round-the-world-trip/IMG_20190108_153634.jpg "Lauren in the Korean Air Lounge at LAX")](/assets/blog/rough-start-to-part-2-of-our-round-the-world-trip/IMG_20190108_153634.jpg)

## Arrival to French Polynesia

We landed at the Pape’ete, Tahiti airport around 7am. After filling out immigrations documents we realized I messed up the dates for our Airbnb booking, and were about to be homeless for the night. We decided to contact our host on Mo’orea to see if we could come one day early. After tracking down wifi to message our host, we anxiously waited around outside the airport for a response. Luckily, it did not take her too long to message us back and she said we were good to come a day early! WHEW!

[![Arrival Gates of Tahiti](/assets/blog/rough-start-to-part-2-of-our-round-the-world-trip/IMG_20190109_064100.jpg "Arrival Gates of Tahiti")](/assets/blog/rough-start-to-part-2-of-our-round-the-world-trip/IMG_20190109_064100.jpg)

## Ferry Ride to Mo’orea

So we got in a Taxi at the airport to take us to the ferry terminal, which cost 2500 Francs. Our driver spoke great English and told us about the island, black pearls and how they are made, how and why things are so expensive, some things about her family, and where to buy things: the open air market.

She dropped us off at the Aremiti Ferry dock, and we bought our ferry tickets for 1500 Francs per person. Our ferry wasn’t for about 2 hours, so we dropped off our bags at the bag check and walked to the market that our taxi driver had showed us. We bought a bundle of 5 pineapples at the market, and looked around the shops for a bit.

[![Open Air Market in Tahiti](/assets/blog/rough-start-to-part-2-of-our-round-the-world-trip/IMG_20190109_081316.jpg "Open Air Market in Tahiti")](/assets/blog/rough-start-to-part-2-of-our-round-the-world-trip/IMG_20190109_081316.jpg)

We headed back to the ferry terminal, and had some coffee while we waited to board the ferry. Since getting to Mo’orea was so eventful, I will talk about our amazing time on the island in our next post!

[![Blue seas off the coast of Mo’orea](/assets/blog/rough-start-to-part-2-of-our-round-the-world-trip/IMG_20190109_104504.jpg "Blue seas off the coast of Mo’orea")](/assets/blog/rough-start-to-part-2-of-our-round-the-world-trip/IMG_20190109_104504.jpg)

[![Gerrod excited to finally arrive at Mo’orea](/assets/blog/rough-start-to-part-2-of-our-round-the-world-trip/IMG-20190109-WA0000.jpg "Gerrod excited to finally arrive at Mo’orea")](/assets/blog/rough-start-to-part-2-of-our-round-the-world-trip/IMG-20190109-WA0000.jpg)

Until next time!

Lauren (and Gerrod)
]]></content:encoded>
            <author>bestseenonfoot@gmail.com (Lauren Schirtzinger)</author>
        </item>
        <item>
            <title><![CDATA[Buenos Aires]]></title>
            <link>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/buenos-aires</link>
            <guid>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/buenos-aires</guid>
            <pubDate>Mon, 25 Feb 2019 17:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
            <description><![CDATA[Hey everyone! Gerrod here to tell you about our time in Buenos Aires...]]></description>
            <content:encoded><![CDATA[
Hey everyone! Gerrod here to tell you about our time in Buenos Aires. Our last stop in South America before heading home for the holidays!

## Getting to Buenos Aires

Before we start talking about Buenos Aires, I should probably mention the mess we went through to get there.

The three of us, Lauren; Josh; and I, decided to grab a taxi with one of the people we met in the hostel during our stay in Iguazu. This way we could split the $550 peso fare four different ways. We all showed up extra early to the airport and found that almost all of the flights were delayed or cancelled.

We probably should have expected something like this since the airport was so small, but here we were again waiting on flights. Settling into the nearby airport cafe, we ended up waiting for about six hours for a new flight to Buenos Aires. In this time several things happened: I had some sort of allergic reaction that almost made my eyes swell shut; we incorrectly ordered food at the cafe (the cafe required you to order food, and then take the receipt to the kitchen so that they could then make your food. Of course we were not told to take the receipt to the kitchen so we waited a very long time for food that was never going to come); and we sat on the ground while sweating profusely in the heat outside of security, since they can only let you through once your plane is ready to board.

[![Chaotic airport at Iguazu](/assets/blog/buenos-aires/IMG_20181214_135853.jpg "Chaotic airport at Iguazu")](/assets/blog/buenos-aires/IMG_20181214_135853.jpg)

We finally boarded and were off to Buenos Aires, arriving a lot later in the evening than we initially expected.

## Finding a Way to the Hostel

Lauren and I tried to get a ride to our accommodation with Ubers and Cabify, but had no luck...even after trying for almost 30 minutes. Eventually we gave up and got an overpriced, but metered taxi to our hostel. Our hostel, Back in BA, was in a region of the city called Palermo. It was very apparent that this was a party hostel from the moment we checked in. The people working there were already trying to get us to go on their pub crawl. We already had plans to meet up with Josh and his friend, so we politely declined.

## Finding Josh and Dinner

Josh and his friend Belén came to meet us at the hostel, and we headed out to grab some food and drinks. We walked around the main circle plaza in Palermo called Plazoleta Julio Cortazar to find some food. We ended up at a place called Kentucky Pizzería, which had fairly good food for cheap.

The four of us then headed to a Kiosco, a kind of small convenience shop, to grab some drinks to drink back at our hostel. One of the hostel workers tried to convince us to go on the pub crawl again, and yet again declined. After we finished our drinks we decided to call it a night.

## Maté and Friends

The next day we walked to Belén’s apartment after getting some directions from Josh. Before we left we decided to have some free hostel breakfast. They had cereal, fruit, coffee and eggs set out. We thought they were serving hard boiled eggs based on the look of the platter, but Lauren found out the hard way that they were actually raw and meant to be cooked first…

Buenos Aires translated to English means “good air”, and when we walked through the city, the air was indeed surprisingly fresh.

When we arrived at the apartment we had maté and some facturas, which we have elaborated on in earlier posts, but as a refresher; maté is hot water with yerba maté usually passed around a circle, and facturas are basically pastries. We also got to meet Belén’s boyfriend, Gonzalo.

## Exploring the City

After sometime we decided to go explore the city. Belén took us through the subway to Casa Rosada and Plaza de Mayo. Casa Rosada or Pink House is where the president of Argentina resides, and Plaza de Mayo is right in front of the Casa Rosada and is the main plaza of the city. The plaza has been the site of many demonstrations throughout its history.

[![Casa Rosada and Plaza de Mayo](/assets/blog/buenos-aires/IMG_20181215_145109.jpg "Casa Rosada and Plaza de Mayo")](/assets/blog/buenos-aires/IMG_20181215_145109.jpg)

We then headed over to a building called Cabildo which is now a museum of history, but has existed in some form since the beginning of the city of Buenos Aires.

Next we walked further into the city towards Obelisco de Buenos Aires or the Obelisk of Buenos Aires. Nearby there are some hedges in the shape of a ‘B’ and an ‘A’ that we lined up for to get some pictures in front of.

[![BA Hedges near Obelisco de Buenos Aires](/assets/blog/buenos-aires/IMG-20190212-WA0004.jpg "BA Hedges near Obelisco de Buenos Aires")](/assets/blog/buenos-aires/IMG-20190212-WA0004.jpg)

After that we went to Teatro Colon to see about a tour, but turned away after seeing the crowd, deciding that a weekday might be less busy.

We stopped by a Havanna Cafe for a small meal and coffee before finding our way back to Belén’s apartment. Once we got back to the apartment we had some tereré, which is similar to maté but uses cold water. Lauren and I enjoyed tereré several times in Paraguay, but in Argentina they use juice instead of cold water.

## Homemade Asado

After chilling in the apartment for a while, we found a cab using the app Cabify to take us to China’s place - China is another friend of Josh. Once there we met her parents who would be making us Asado, basically a bunch of different grilled meats in the Argentinian fashion.

[![Homemade Asado](/assets/blog/buenos-aires/IMG_20181215_210918.jpg "Homemade Asado")](/assets/blog/buenos-aires/IMG_20181215_210918.jpg)

We enjoyed lots of meat, drink, and great conversation. As the night went on we met another friend of Josh named Nadus, and some more of China’s family.

[![Buenos Aires at night](/assets/blog/buenos-aires/IMG_20181215_210807-PANO.jpg "Buenos Aires at night")](/assets/blog/buenos-aires/IMG_20181215_210807-PANO.jpg)

After all was said and done we got another cab home some time after 3am. Josh decided to stay with us in our room since we actually had an extra bed and he did not want to bother Belén so late at night.

## Caminito

Since we did not get home until very late last night or early this morning depending on your perspective, we did not get Josh to Belén’s to shower until noon. Once we were all ready we headed out to eat at a food court in a mall nearby. After that we went to a Starbucks to use the wifi and get our caffeine fix.

Once we finally felt up to the day we got an Uber to take us to Caminito. Caminito is a small street filled with shops and small restaurants and cafes. It is most known for the live tango dancers and music, so after shopping around we stopped at a restaurant called Club Zárate to eat and watch some dancers.

[![Tango at Caminito](/assets/blog/buenos-aires/IMG_20181216_171210.jpg "Tango at Caminito")](/assets/blog/buenos-aires/IMG_20181216_171210.jpg)

## Uber Fail

When it was getting close to dark and the shops were closing up we decided to order an Uber home. Unfortunately Uber in Buenos Aires is still having issues with the local taxis, so they cancel A LOT. After walking around and ordering Uber after Uber for almost an hour we finally got one to take us back to Belén’s, so we could nap before going out.

## Night Out

After our short naps, we got ready to go out in Palermo. We walked there and stopped at many ATMs until finally one of them worked. We learned through our time in Argentina that many of the ATMs do not care for foreign debit cards.

We met up with some more people at a bar near Plazoleta Julio Cortazar. This is also when we met one of Josh’s other friends, Lisa. The group decided to go to a club nearby that we got some discount tickets for, but once we were in Gonzalo said we were with some girl who must have been having a party so we all got in free.
The drink ordering process was strangely bottle necked as we had to all order from one register and then show our ticket to a bartender to then get it made. We also learned about an energy drink brand called Speed that we initially thought was just drugs and alcohol when reading on the menu Speed + Vodka. Speed is code for ecstasy for those of you who do not know that. We danced to some Reggaeton for many hours before deciding to walk home in the rain.

## Teatro Colon

The next day, we met up with Josh and finally got to Teatro Colon. We tried to get the 1pm tour, but due to availability we ended up joining the 3pm tour instead. The tickets cost us 700 pesos each.

To kill some time we decided to walk to Puerto Madero. The shopping center that we walked through on the way was filled with beggars constantly saying “cambio” or “change”. We finally landed ourselves at a Starbucks in the port area and had some coffee and snacks.

We realized we may have killed too much time and had to power walked back to the theater. We got there just as the tour was starting, but we made it.

[![Teatro Colon](/assets/blog/buenos-aires/IMG_20181217_153033.jpg "Teatro Colon")](/assets/blog/buenos-aires/IMG_20181217_153033.jpg)

[![view from the stage at Teatro Colon](/assets/blog/buenos-aires/IMG_20181217_155434.jpg "view from the stage at Teatro Colon")](/assets/blog/buenos-aires/IMG_20181217_155434.jpg)

During the tour we learned a lot about the architecture of the building and how much thought goes into each section. You could also really see how much influence and admiration of Europe was in the Argentinian culture. This theater is considered one of the top 5 in the world for Operas and acoustics. I highly recommend this tour if you ever find yourself in Argentina.

## Cementerio de la Recoleta

Following our tour through the theater, we walked over to Cementerio de la Recoleta. This was a very beautiful cemetery that had a very famous grave: Eva Perón. We had to find this grave and we did thanks to a marker Maps.ME. She was a very famous activist in Argentina, so there were many tributes near the grave.

[![Grave of Eva Perón](/assets/blog/buenos-aires/IMG_20181217_172316.jpg "Grave of Eva Perón")](/assets/blog/buenos-aires/IMG_20181217_172316.jpg)

While we were in the area, we also stopped by Basílica Nuestra Señora del Pilar. We walked through a small museum inside the church that had some art and history exhibits about the church. This cost us 35 pesos per person.

[![Josh and Lauren at Basílica Nuestra Señora del Pilar](/assets/blog/buenos-aires/IMG_20181217_163630.jpg "Josh and Lauren at Basílica Nuestra Señora del Pilar")](/assets/blog/buenos-aires/IMG_20181217_163630.jpg)

Not far from these lovely sites were some restaurants and breweries, so we decided to stop in one for a snack and drinks. We figured a shared appetizer and drinks would be enough to hold us over until we figured out what the dinner plan was for the night.

## Last Night

For our last night in Argentina we ended up going to China’s friend’s house for a homemade meal and drinks. Lucky for us it was in Palermo, so we walked there from our hostel and bought some Fernet and coke on the way to share with the party.

While we were at the house everyone there chipped in to make some pastel de papa, a traditional Argentinian dish made of meat, potatoes, and cheese. While we ate and drank, we watched a Argentina’s Dancing with the Stars equivalent show called Bailando por un Sueño. Josh’s friend was apparently one of the competitors and while we watched that night she won her chance to compete in the finals!

We walked home later that night around 2am which felt a little sketchy, but we got home with no problems.

## Farewells and a Stop in Paseo El Rosedal

On our final day in Buenos Aires, Lauren and I got ourselves checked out of the hostel and made a few attempts at Uber before finally getting one to Belén’s apartment. While we were there, we said goodbye to China and headed to Paseo El Rosedal with Josh and Nadus.

Paseo El Rosedal is beautiful public park with tons of roses. All of the roses were in bloom and were so beautiful. Lauren, Josh, Nadus, and I spent time taking lots of Rose garden photos in the park.

[![flowers at Paseo El Rosedal](/assets/blog/buenos-aires/IMG_7762.JPG "flowers at Paseo El Rosedal")](/assets/blog/buenos-aires/IMG_7762.JPG)

[![pink rose at Paseo El Rosedal](/assets/blog/buenos-aires/IMG_7793.JPG "pink rose at Paseo El Rosedal")](/assets/blog/buenos-aires/IMG_7793.JPG)

[![white roses at Paseo El Rosedal](/assets/blog/buenos-aires/IMG_7795.JPG "white roses at Paseo El Rosedal")](/assets/blog/buenos-aires/IMG_7795.JPG)

[![Gerrod and Josh at Paseo El Rosedal](/assets/blog/buenos-aires/IMG_7802.JPG "Gerrod and Josh at Paseo El Rosedal")](/assets/blog/buenos-aires/IMG_7802.JPG)

[![bee pollinating at Paseo El Rosedal](/assets/blog/buenos-aires/IMG_7809.JPG "bee pollinating at Paseo El Rosedal")](/assets/blog/buenos-aires/IMG_7809.JPG)

[![purple flowers at Paseo El Rosedal](/assets/blog/buenos-aires/IMG_7819.JPG "purple flowers at Paseo El Rosedal")](/assets/blog/buenos-aires/IMG_7819.JPG)

[![Gerrod posing at Paseo El Rosedal](/assets/blog/buenos-aires/IMG_7842.JPG "Gerrod posing at Paseo El Rosedal")](/assets/blog/buenos-aires/IMG_7842.JPG)

[![Gerrod posing angle two at Paseo El Rosedal](/assets/blog/buenos-aires/IMG_7861.JPG "Gerrod posing angle two at Paseo El Rosedal")](/assets/blog/buenos-aires/IMG_7861.JPG)

[![Josh posing at Paseo El Rosedal](/assets/blog/buenos-aires/IMG_7870.JPG "Josh posing at Paseo El Rosedal")](/assets/blog/buenos-aires/IMG_7870.JPG)

[![another bee pollinating at Paseo El Rosedal](/assets/blog/buenos-aires/IMG_7878.JPG "another bee pollinating at Paseo El Rosedal")](/assets/blog/buenos-aires/IMG_7878.JPG)

After our long photo shoot and walk in the park, we went to a restaurant nearby called Rock & Ribs Smokehouse. Our meal, drink, coffee, and dessert was only 400 pesos per person!

Our luggage was stored in Belén’s apartment, so after lunch we grabbed a cab to meet Gonzalo to get the keys to the apartment. Lauren and I said farewell to Gonzalo, and after grabbing our things from the apartment we said our farewells to Nadus and Josh.

## Headed Home for Holidays

We were able to secure an Uber for around 25 USD to EZE airport. Luckily we left early since the traffic in the city around 5pm was super slow. We arrived at the airport almost 3 hours before our flight, but due to customs and security having two separate long lines to leave the country, it took us the entire 3 hours just to get to the gate.

[![Gerrod and Lauren waiting in line at the airport](/assets/blog/buenos-aires/IMG_20181218_203744.jpg "Gerrod and Lauren waiting in line at the airport")](/assets/blog/buenos-aires/IMG_20181218_203744.jpg)

Once we got on the plane, someone had lost their passport on the plane. We had to wait until it was found before the plane took off, which set us back by about 15 to 20 minutes. After we finally took off, we were well on our way home for the holidays!

[![Lauren and Gerrod on the plane home](/assets/blog/buenos-aires/IMG_20181219_072404.jpg "Lauren and Gerrod on the plane home")](/assets/blog/buenos-aires/IMG_20181219_072404.jpg)

Until next time!

Gerrod (and Lauren)
]]></content:encoded>
            <author>bestseenonfoot@gmail.com (Gerrod Schirtzinger)</author>
        </item>
        <item>
            <title><![CDATA[The Very Beautiful Iguazú Falls]]></title>
            <link>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/the-very-beautiful-iguazu-falls</link>
            <guid>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/the-very-beautiful-iguazu-falls</guid>
            <pubDate>Tue, 19 Feb 2019 17:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
            <description><![CDATA[Hey everyone! Lauren here to tell you about our trip to Iguazú Falls...]]></description>
            <content:encoded><![CDATA[
Hey everyone! Lauren here to tell you about our trip to Iguazú Falls!

## Arriving at Iguazú Falls and Getting to Our Hostel

As Gerrod mentioned in our [Mendoza post](/posts/mendoza-exploring-the-city), we had no trouble getting to the airport, and we ran into very few issues on our flight to Cataratas del Iguazú International Airport. Upon arriving at the airport, we were instantly hit with humidity and heat! The airport didn’t seem to be air conditioned, and we were sweating just waiting to get our luggage.

After getting our bags, we had to find a way to get to our accommodation. We were staying at a place called Hostel Bambu in Puerto Iguazú, which is about 30 minutes away from the airport.

We found a 200 peso per person bus to Puerto Iguazú. It was a small shuttle that was packed and also incredibly hot. I was dozing on the bus ride to Puerto Iguazú, and luckily they made several stops which woke me up before they stopped at our hostel. Check-in went smoothly, and soon Gerrod and I were in our room cranking on the air conditioning.

## Waiting for Josh

Gerrod’s brother Josh had a different flight to Puerto Iguazú and was arriving later in the afternoon, so Gerrod and I decided to do some laundry since we were running low on clothes. We found a local laundry place and went to grab some food at a local restaurant.

After dropping off our laundry and eating, Gerrod and I headed back to our hostel to relax a bit before Josh arrived. Josh finally arrived in the evening and joined us for drinks and dinner at the hostel bar/restaurant. During dinner, we ran into the girl we met on our Amazon Jungle tour in Peru! She was staying at the same hostel as us! Small world.

## Getting to Iguazú Falls

The next morning we woke up at 6:30am to get ready to go to the falls. We reserved a taxi and a boat tour around the falls at the front desk of the hostel. The taxi cost $900 peso cab ride round trip, which was a little but more expensive than the bus but seemed to be way more convenient.

The taxi was picking us up at 9:00am, so after getting ready and eating breakfast, we went to a local convenience store to grab some snacks for the day. We also heard that you needed to pay an entrance fee to the park, so we stopped at an ATM before headed back to our hostel to catch our taxi.

The taxi ride to Iguazú Falls took about 30 minutes, and our driver was very laid back. He told us just to message him when we were ready to go back to our hostel. After arriving at the park, we went to buy our park ticket which cost $700 pesos per person.

## Iguazú Jungle Boat Tour

After buying our park ticket, we headed to the boat trip check-in desk. The boat trip we booked was with a company called Iguazú Jungle and departed at 10:15am and was $2000 pesos per person.

We headed to the start of the boat trip, and of course the girl we met in the Amazon Rainforest in Peru was on the same boat tour as us!

The boat ride was incredible. It started with a guided open air bus ride through the forest. The guide gave us some fun facts about the jungle and about Iguazú falls on our way to the boat terminal. After arriving at the boat launch, we were given dry bags for our things and these very fashionable life jackets.

We rode the boat all the way up the river, and I got splashed with water a few times as we rode through the rapids. The first view of the falls was so beautiful, and more and more of the falls got into view the further we rode upstream.

After getting some pictures of the falls, it was time to put our things in the dry bag and get closer to the falls to get wet. What we didn’t realize, is this meant literally riding into the waterfall! We got absolutely soaked and they took us into three different sections of the waterfall. The water was way warmer than expected and it was so hard to see anything.

[Iguazu Jungle Boat Tour: Into the Waterfall!](https://www.youtube.com/embed/nR4WqUg58_4)

After getting soaked in the waterfall and soaking in how beautiful it was, we headed back to the boat dock, dried off, and headed back on the open air bus to end the tour. On our ride back we saw a toucan, which was pretty neat.

## Walking the Trails

After getting back to the park, we ate some of the snacks we bought for lunch. We then began walking the various trails to see the falls.

[![Lauren and Gerrod at Iguazú Falls](/assets/blog/the-very-beautiful-iguazu-falls/IMG_7481.JPG "Lauren and Gerrod at Iguazú Falls")](/assets/blog/the-very-beautiful-iguazu-falls/IMG_7481.JPG)

We started with the blue trail which was above the falls, and got to see some coatimundi, a weird raccoon like animal, walking the trail. The falls were incredible. It was impossible to photograph the entire falls as there were so many different sections and so many different viewing platforms. The trail also lead across the river so you could look into the water and see the wildlife.

[![Peering over Iguazú Falls](/assets/blog/the-very-beautiful-iguazu-falls/IMG_7534.JPG "Peering over Iguazú Falls")](/assets/blog/the-very-beautiful-iguazu-falls/IMG_7534.JPG)

[![Taking in the glory of Iguazú Falls](/assets/blog/the-very-beautiful-iguazu-falls/IMG_7674~2.JPG "Taking in the glory of Iguazú Falls")](/assets/blog/the-very-beautiful-iguazu-falls/IMG_7674~2.JPG)

After finishing the blue trail, we went to the little train to go to the viewing for a section of the falls called Diablo Garganta. On the way to the train, we got to see some capuchin monkeys! They were pretty cute, but seemed particularly interested in some ice cream bars that other people were eating near us.

[Garganta del Diablo at Iguazu Falls](https://www.youtube.com/embed/rLAKj9IP_yE)

After snapping some good photos at Diablo Garganta, we took the train back towards the other trails. We then started walking the last trail, the yellow path. The yellow trail had a lower view of the falls, and even got very close to one of the falls so you got nicely misted!

[![Standing next to Iguazú Falls](/assets/blog/the-very-beautiful-iguazu-falls/IMG_7681.JPG "Standing next to Iguazú Falls")](/assets/blog/the-very-beautiful-iguazu-falls/IMG_7681.JPG)

[![Capturing the rainbow at Iguazú Falls](/assets/blog/the-very-beautiful-iguazu-falls/IMG_7689.JPG "Capturing the rainbow at Iguazú Falls")](/assets/blog/the-very-beautiful-iguazu-falls/IMG_7689.JPG)

[![Time lapse of Iguazú Falls](/assets/blog/the-very-beautiful-iguazu-falls/IMG_7715.JPG "Time lapse of Iguazú Falls")](/assets/blog/the-very-beautiful-iguazu-falls/IMG_7715.JPG)

By the time we were done walking all of the paths, it was almost 6pm! We messaged our driver on WhatsApp, and soon we were on our way back to the hostel.

## Hostel Fun Time

Gerrod and I have stayed at hostels several times throughout our travels, and know how fun they can be. You get to meet people from all over the world, and most of the time they are very friendly and like minded. Hanging out with people in a hostel normally involves drinking in some way, and so far on our trip we have kept the drinking at a minimum to save money. However, since this was Josh’s first time at a hostel, we decided to indulge ourselves in the drink!

So when we got back, we had dinner, drinks, and good conversation with a bunch of fellow travelers at the hostel! We talked for quite a while before going to bed, and had quite a few Fernet and cokes, an Argentinian favorite drink.

## Goodbye Iguazú

Iguazú Falls is truly incredible. I have never seen a waterfall so vast with such green scenery!

The next morning we had our taxi driver from the day before drive us to the airport to head to Buenos Aires! Gerrod will tell you more about that in our next post.

Until next time!

Lauren (and Gerrod)
]]></content:encoded>
            <author>bestseenonfoot@gmail.com (Lauren Schirtzinger)</author>
        </item>
        <item>
            <title><![CDATA[DIY Mendoza Winery Tour]]></title>
            <link>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/diy-mendoza-winery-tour</link>
            <guid>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/diy-mendoza-winery-tour</guid>
            <pubDate>Mon, 11 Feb 2019 17:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
            <description><![CDATA[Hey everyone! Lauren here to tell you about our experience going to wineries around Mendoza with our lovely brother...]]></description>
            <content:encoded><![CDATA[
Hey everyone! Lauren here to tell you about our experience going to wineries around Mendoza with our lovely brother Josh!

## The Planning Stage

In Mendoza, me, Gerrod, and Gerrod’s brother Josh stayed at an AirBnB. We knew we wanted to visit wineries, and the man who let us into our place said we could hire him for the day to drive us around to the different wineries! Since many of the tours seemed like they wouldn’t be as flexible or feel as personal, we opted to take him up on his offer!

Since we didn’t do a tour, this meant we needed to figure out which wineries we wanted to go them, and had to call them to make a reservation! This was a bit more work, but many wineries had a phone representative that spoke English which made it a bit easier. We also decided we wanted to visit an olive oil production place which did not require a reservation, but only gave one tour a day in English which did not fit into our schedule. Since we still wanted to tour the facility, we decided we would give the Spanish tour a try.

## Getting Ready

In order to get ready for the day, we woke up around 7:30 am since Josh and I wanted to look cute for the winery tours. Oh, and because the three of us all had to share one shower.

We ate some “facturas” aka pastries we bought the night before at a local bakery, and our driver Javier picked us up around 8:55am.

## Winery 1: Bodega Lagarde

Our first winery tour was at 9:30am at [Bodega Lagarde](http://www.lagarde.com.ar/en/home?sc=en). When we arrived for a 9:30 am tour, it was very clear that we were the first and only people that were crazy enough to start drinking wine at 9:30 in the morning. However, it was the only way we could piece together our day and visit 3 wineries and an olive oil factory.

[![Map of Bodega Lagarde](/assets/blog/diy-mendoza-winery-tour/IMG_20181211_092033.jpg "Map of Bodega Lagarde")](/assets/blog/diy-mendoza-winery-tour/IMG_20181211_092033.jpg)

Our tour guide Veronica welcomed us and gave us time to take photos before beginning on the tour. Her English was amazing, which made her explanation of the entire wine making process easy to understand, especially since it was the first time any of us had toured a winery.

[![Grape vines at Bodega Lagarde](/assets/blog/diy-mendoza-winery-tour/IMG_20181211_092151.jpg "Grape vines at Bodega Lagarde")](/assets/blog/diy-mendoza-winery-tour/IMG_20181211_092151.jpg)

[![Casks at Bodega Lagarde](/assets/blog/diy-mendoza-winery-tour/IMG_20181211_093146.jpg "Casks at Bodega Lagarde")](/assets/blog/diy-mendoza-winery-tour/IMG_20181211_093146.jpg)

She walked us through the metal maceration room, cask room, and even explained the process for corking a champagne bottle. After the tour we headed to the wine tasting room.

There were 3 different levels of wine to try, and we each got to taste 4 different wines. Josh and I tasted the reserve/medium quality wines, which cost 450 pesos, including the tour. The Guarda Malbec DOC was DELICIOUS and was both Josh and I’s favorite.

[![Our first wine tasting at Bodega Lagarde](/assets/blog/diy-mendoza-winery-tour/IMG_20181211_100349.jpg "Our first wine tasting at Bodega Lagarde")](/assets/blog/diy-mendoza-winery-tour/IMG_20181211_100349.jpg)

Gerrod decided to taste the premium wines, which cost 600 pesos including the tour. He tried a Cabernet Sauvignon, which was amazing and almost tasted like you were eating a very flavorful salad. We also tasted three different sparkling wines, sweet, normal, and special wine that was only sold onsite that was made with Pinot Noir grapes.

## Olive Oil Factory: Maguay Oliveria

After finishing our tasting at Bodega Lagarde, we went to [Maguay Oliveria](http://maguay.com.ar/es/), a local family owned olive oil factory. As I mentioned before, we had the tour in Spanish, because the only English speaking tour was at 1:00pm which didn’t fit into our schedule.

We asked our guide to speak slowly and clearly, and our she did a great job because we understood her! We learned cool facts about the olive oil making process such as olive plants are considered young if they are less than 80 years old. We also learned that both black and green olives come from the same plant and just differ in ripeness. She explained the fermentation process which included a span of time in salt water and rotating of barrels 2 times a week for 10 months.

[![Olive Trees at Maguay Oliveria](/assets/blog/diy-mendoza-winery-tour/IMG_20181211_111036.jpg "Olive Trees at Maguay Oliveria")](/assets/blog/diy-mendoza-winery-tour/IMG_20181211_111036.jpg)

After our tour, we went in to do a tasting! We tasted 5 different types of oil and 7 different types of olives. The flavor was amazing! I had never tasted such flavorful olive oil in my entire life. She also gave us a taste of a Merlot/Malbec blend and a white Blanco Dulce Natural wines. The tour and tasting only cost us 100 pesos per person!

[![Olive and Olive Oil tasting at Maguay Oliveria](/assets/blog/diy-mendoza-winery-tour/IMG_20181211_113601.jpg "Olive and Olive Oil tasting at Maguay Oliveria")](/assets/blog/diy-mendoza-winery-tour/IMG_20181211_113601.jpg)

Josh and I bought some olive oil for our moms for christmas because it was so tasty!

## A Little Hiccup: Argentinian Police

Afterward our olive oil tasting we hopped back in the car with Javier and headed to our next winery! On our way, we got stopped at a police checkpoint. It was taking longer than expected, and it turns out Javier got a ticket because his headlights weren't on! The ticket cost 4,000 pesos!!! It was very sunny out, and was midday but apparently in Argentina it is a law that you always have to have your headlights on which seems dumb.

## Winery 2: Ruca Malen and a Delicious Meal

After our driver got ticketed by the police, we continued our drive to our next winery, [Bodega Ruca Malen](http://www.bodegarucamalen.com/check.html) for lunch.

The scenery around the winery was stunning! Our tour started by walking out the the vineyard and visiting the small garden, where apparently a large portion of our upcoming lunch was grown. Apparently at Ruca Malen, they buy a large portion of their wine making grapes, and only produce 10% of what they need!

[![The grape fields at Ruca Malen](/assets/blog/diy-mendoza-winery-tour/IMG_20181211_124054.jpg "The grape fields at Ruca Malen")](/assets/blog/diy-mendoza-winery-tour/IMG_20181211_124054.jpg)

Our guide then took us to the cask room and explained more of the wine making process. Her English was not quite as good, but luckily we had a good idea of the process by that point.

After our tour we sat down for our lunch and wine tasting! The lunch included 7 different courses with 7 different wine pairings. Gerrod called some of the food rabbit food, but the wine and food were delicious!

[![Steak and wine pairing at Ruca Malen](/assets/blog/diy-mendoza-winery-tour/IMG_20181211_142206.jpg "Steak and wine pairing at Ruca Malen")](/assets/blog/diy-mendoza-winery-tour/IMG_20181211_142206.jpg)

The tastings were very generous pours, and towards the end of our meal we were feeling a little bit drunk. After our meal we paid for our meal, which was 2300 pesos per person and took plenty of photos outside to capture the beauty of the property.

[![Josh, Gerrod, and Lauren at Ruca Malen](/assets/blog/diy-mendoza-winery-tour/IMG-20181211-WA0010.jpg "Josh, Gerrod, and Lauren at Ruca Malen")](/assets/blog/diy-mendoza-winery-tour/IMG-20181211-WA0010.jpg)

## Winery 3: Melipal

Next, we all headed to our last winery for the day, [Bodega Melipal](https://lasbodegasdemendoza.com/melipal/). When we arrived we weren’t sure where to enter and accidentally came through the back door. Oops!

[![Outside of Melipal](/assets/blog/diy-mendoza-winery-tour/IMG_20181211_155834.jpg "Outside of Melipal")](/assets/blog/diy-mendoza-winery-tour/IMG_20181211_155834.jpg)

After we checked in for the tour, we were joined on the tour by a couple from Tennessee and our guide took us to the vineyard. Our guide spoke amazing English, and told us some facts that we didn’t learn on our previous tours.

Our guide informed us that the vineyard we were in were considered babies since they were only planted in 2010. She also told us about the different grape varieties and how the different leaves could help you determine what type of grape the plant was! A three lobed grape leaf in this vineyard was a Malbec variety and a five lobed leaf was a Cabernet Sauvignon variety!

She next showed us the metal fermentation tanks and the cask room, and soon we were in the tasting room. We tasted 4 different types of wines, and had some great discussions with our guide and the couple from Tennessee. After staying a little longer than intended, we took some pictures and got back in the car with Javier and headed back to our Airbnb.

[![The wine cellar at Melipal](/assets/blog/diy-mendoza-winery-tour/IMG_20181211_164759.jpg "The wine cellar at Melipal")](/assets/blog/diy-mendoza-winery-tour/IMG_20181211_164759.jpg)

[![Gerrod, Lauren, and Josh at Melipal wine tasting](/assets/blog/diy-mendoza-winery-tour/IMG-20181211-WA0030.jpg "Gerrod, Lauren, and Josh at Melipal wine tasting")](/assets/blog/diy-mendoza-winery-tour/IMG-20181211-WA0030.jpg)

## Post Wine Nap Time

I struggled to stay awake on our ride back to our Airbnb, and may have even fallen asleep on Gerrod for awhile. After we finally arrived back at our Airbnb, we paid Javier our agreed upon 4500 pesos, and gave him an additional 500 because he got a ticket and we felt bad that we stayed a little later than intended at our last winery. He also did an outstanding job!

## Pool Photo Shoot

After getting back to our Airbnb, we drank some of the Melipal wine we purchased by the pool and took some awesome photos. The lighting on the rooftop was just perfect!

[![Lauren and Gerrod taking photos by the pool](/assets/blog/diy-mendoza-winery-tour/IMG-20181211-WA0023.jpg "Lauren and Gerrod taking photos by the pool")](/assets/blog/diy-mendoza-winery-tour/IMG-20181211-WA0023.jpg)

## Dinner

After hanging out on the roof for awhile, we headed to dinner at a place Javier recommended called Parrilla. Gerrod ordered an entree that consisted of a bunch of different meats, and was A LOT of food. After dinner, it didn't take long before we decided to go to bed.

[![Arriving at Parrilla](/assets/blog/diy-mendoza-winery-tour/IMG_20181211_213614.jpg "Arriving at Parrilla")](/assets/blog/diy-mendoza-winery-tour/IMG_20181211_213614.jpg)

## Not Enough Time in Mendoza

Of all the places we went in South America, I felt like we needed much more time in Mendoza. Others we met told us about rafting and hiking adventures that they did in Mendoza that sounded amazing, but we simply did not have time to do any of them! There are also so many more delicious wineries to visit. Hopefully one day we can return and do some of the stuff we missed out on!

Until next time!

Lauren (and Gerrod)
]]></content:encoded>
            <author>bestseenonfoot@gmail.com (Lauren Schirtzinger)</author>
        </item>
        <item>
            <title><![CDATA[Mendoza: Exploring the City]]></title>
            <link>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/mendoza-exploring-the-city</link>
            <guid>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/mendoza-exploring-the-city</guid>
            <pubDate>Sat, 09 Feb 2019 17:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
            <description><![CDATA[After our amazing experience seeing the Perito Moreno Glacier, the day had come when we would be heading to...]]></description>
            <content:encoded><![CDATA[
After our amazing experience seeing the Perito Moreno Glacier, the day had come when we would be heading to the city of wine called Mendoza! This also happened to be the city that we would finally meet up with my little brother Josh!

## Flying to Mendoza

The bus that we had booked previously while booking our glacier tour bus showed up around 11:15am. We were able to make it to the airport with no problems, and even got one of our checked bags for free! This seems to be very common with flights if you wait to pay for your bags and are polite to whoever is helping you.

After two flights with a stopover in Cordoba, we arrived in Mendoza. For fun we decided to try two more ATMs with hope almost lost, but to our surprise we were able to finally get money in Argentina! After gathering our things and ourselves we grabbed a taxi to our hostel, Muna Hostel, which was near the city center for 190 pesos.

## One Night in a Hostel

Josh would not be arriving until the next day, so we had one night to kill before we started looking for wine. When we checked in, we learned that the owners actually own a second hostel down the street and had just purchased this one. The downside to this was that Muna was not quite set up yet, so we got a dorm room to ourselves instead of a regular private room. The owners showed us a map of town and gave us some suggestions. They also sold us on a 300 peso each BBQ dinner at their other hostel.

When dinner time arrived, which was around 9pm, we headed to the other hostel. This hostel was much more lively and we met a lot of cool people from around the world while we waited for dinner. The dinner actually ended up being amazing! It was an all you can eat BBQ meats and all you can drink wine. They also were celebrating the purchase of the new hostel and one of the owner’s birthdays, so there was even cake!

## Josh Joined the Party

The next morning we got a slow start due to our party the night before. After having some breakfast and getting ourselves together, Josh finally arrived in the city and got to the Airbnb! We took a stroll through the city to go find him and drop our things off at the Airbnb. The [Airbnb](https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/18887524) was very nice and even had a pool on the rooftop!

After Josh joined our party, we headed out to a street called Avenida Arístides Villanueva to find some money and food. We ended up at a bar and restaurant called [Buffalo Bar](https://buffalobeer.negocio.site/), which had some pretty good food and beer.

After lunch we headed back to our Airbnb to research things to do in the city and some of the wineries nearby. After we felt pretty confident in our plans, we bought some groceries and hung by the rooftop pool.

We headed out to dinner around 10pm since late dinner was a normal occurrence in Argentina. I found a very nice place using google called [Josefina Restó](http://www.josefinaresto.com.ar/). It was amazing with meals ranging from 300 to 500 pesos or 7 to 13 USD. The atmosphere of the street was great too as it appeared there was quite a big fútbol game going on (or soccer if you are American). We ended up finishing dinner sometime after midnight.

## Looking for Fun

The next day, we got started a little later than initially planned due to the late night and everyone being a little tired from their travels. After we finally got moving, we headed out on the town to book some tours or maybe some white water rafting.

We first tried to book something with Argentina Rafting, which we had heard about through another blog. Unfortunately they were closed for the day due to it being their 25th anniversary; how unlucky for us!

Next we headed to a place called Mendoza Viajes which offered a 2 winery and 1 olive oil factory tour in the afternoon. Another place we tried was called Mayas Viajes y Turismo, which offered a 3 winery and 1 olive oil factory tour in the afternoon. They also informed us about Alta Montaña, a water park with hot springs, and rafting for the next day.

Unfortunately we were too late in the day to go rafting, so we took brochures from both places and headed to a place called [BRÖD](https://brod.business.site/) for some late breakfast and coffee. We really wanted to do winery tours without a tour, so we also took this time and their Wifi to plan our own winery tour route for the next day. Lauren will talk more about this in her post about the wineries.

## Parque San Martín

After planning our wineries for the next day and collecting ourselves back at the Airbnb, we decided to take a walk to Parque San Martín. We took our time and took some great photos as we headed to Army of the Andes Monument/Cerro De La Gloria. The walk took much longer than we thought; I believe over an hour. It was very hot, but we got to see a lot of different things.

When we got to the top of the summit where the monument was, there was a great view of the city. We brought a bottle of wine with us, so we took a break nearby and passed the bottle around. There was a cafe near the monument, so before we headed back down the tiny mountain, we grabbed some empanadas, some smoothies, and plenty of pictures.

[![Gerrod and Josh on a bridge at Parque San Martín](/assets/blog/mendoza-exploring-the-city/IMG_7126.JPG "Gerrod and Josh on a bridge at Parque San Martín")](/assets/blog/mendoza-exploring-the-city/IMG_7126.JPG)

[![Lauren and Gerrod posing classically at Parque San Martín](/assets/blog/mendoza-exploring-the-city/IMG_7167.JPG "Lauren and Gerrod posing classically at Parque San Martín")](/assets/blog/mendoza-exploring-the-city/IMG_7167.JPG)

[![Gerrod mimicking a statue at Parque San Martín](/assets/blog/mendoza-exploring-the-city/IMG_7173.JPG "Gerrod mimicking a statue at Parque San Martín")](/assets/blog/mendoza-exploring-the-city/IMG_7173.JPG)

[![Lauren and Gerrod enjoying the walk near Parque San Martín](/assets/blog/mendoza-exploring-the-city/IMG_7186.JPG "Lauren and Gerrod enjoying the walk near Parque San Martín")](/assets/blog/mendoza-exploring-the-city/IMG_7186.JPG)

On our way back to the Airbnb, we walked passed the zoo, which was currently under construction. Even though it was closed, we did see some of the animals sitting in their temporary spaces, which was both interesting and sad to see all at the same time.

## Farewell for Now

The day after our winery tours which Lauren will talk more about in our next post, we woke up around 7am to prepare to leave Mendoza. After getting ready, Javier, the Airbnb’s host’s friend who drove us around the wineries, picked us up to take us to the airport. On the way to the airport, he took us around some of the many neighborhoods on the way.

We got to the airport in plenty of time, but this time we had to pay an extra 40 USD for Lauren’s bag :(. Although, we did learn that in Argentina we could carry on 6 bottles of wine on flights!

Our time in Mendoza was great, but brief. We are hoping someday we will return to visit more wineries and take part in some of the many other activities that Mendoza has to offer.

Until next time!
]]></content:encoded>
            <author>bestseenonfoot@gmail.com (Gerrod Schirtzinger)</author>
        </item>
        <item>
            <title><![CDATA[Perito Moreno Glacier and El Calafate]]></title>
            <link>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/perito-moreno-glacier-and-el-calafate</link>
            <guid>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/perito-moreno-glacier-and-el-calafate</guid>
            <pubDate>Wed, 30 Jan 2019 17:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
            <description><![CDATA[Hey everyone! Lauren here to tell you about our trip to El Calafate to see the Perito Moreno Glacier...]]></description>
            <content:encoded><![CDATA[
Hey everyone! Lauren here to tell you about our trip to El Calafate to see the Perito Moreno Glacier!

## Bus from El Chaltén to El Calafate

Our bus from El Chaltén to El Calafate didn’t leave until 1:00pm so we had plenty of time to relax before moving to our next destination. We checked out of our hotel around 10am after making some breakfast, and headed next door to the coffee shop to use the wifi and grab some coffees.

Around 12:30 pm, we headed to the bus station to catch our bus. The 3 hour bus ride went very quick, with good scenery helping to pass the time. Very soon, we were pulling into the bus station at El Calafate!

## Booking a Trip to the Perito Moreno Glacier

After we got to town, we checked in to our accommodation, Hostel Guerrero. After we got settled a bit, we headed back to the bus station to get bus tickets for the glacier the following day.

There were several tour operators, and we ended up going with a company called Patagonia Dreams since it seemed like they had the only morning availability. The tickets cost 800 Argentine Pesos per person, and we were told the bus would pick us up from our hostel between 8:45 and 9:15 the following morning.

We saw a sign that said they also did airport trips, so we decided to book transportation to the airport since we were flying to Mendoza the day after we visited the glacier. The tickets to the airport cost 500 Argentine Pesos total, and they also picked us up from our hostel!

## Visiting the Perito Moreno Glacier

The next morning, we woke up around 7:15am to get ready for our trip to the glacier. While we were getting ready, Gerrod mentioned that he got a confirmation email that the new Super Smash Bros. that just came out was delivered to his parents house (our official shipping address right now!) and he wished he could play it. Typical Gerrod.

### Bus Ride to the Glacier

Patagonia Dreams arrived promptly at 8:45 am, and we were the first people on the bus. After we got in our seats, the bus drove around to other hotels and hostels to pick up other passengers.

After picking up several other people, they stopped at the side of the road and transferred us to a bigger bus with even more people on it. After everyone was in there seats, we were on our way!

Much of our bus ride we had a beautiful view of Lago Argentina. To our surprise, there was a guide on the bus giving commentary in both Spanish AND English. He gave us cool information about the Los Glaciares National Park and the Perito Moreno Glacier, as well as information on things we were passing including the flora, fauna, glaciers, and Lago Argentina.

After riding for a bit, we stopped at the park office to buy our entrance ticket to the glacier. There was a park employee that came on the bus to get our tickets, and he asked each of us what country we were from and took the 700 Argentine Peso park entrance fee from us. He soon came back with our tickets, and they had our nationality printed on the ticket. The entrance had to be paid in cash, and apparently if you enter the park a second time you only pay 50% if you present your first ticket.

### Arriving at the Park

After getting our ticket, we continued our drive. It wasn’t too much further to the glacier, and everyone was in awe on our first view of it in the distance! Even from far away it was so blue and seemed to go on forever.

We officially arrived at the glacier around 11 to 11:30am. Many people had pre-arranged to take a boat up next to the glacier, but Gerrod and I chose not to do this. Our guide gave everyone who was not taking the boat a suggested walking route around the glacier, and after Gerrod and I grabbed a coffee from a small cafe in the park building, we began walking the suggested route.

### Walking Around the Glacier

The Perito Moreno Glacier is truly incredible. It is 70 meters tall in the center portion, and 50 meters around the edges. It fills the entire valley between two mountains, and extends all the way up as far as you can see. There are several different boardwalk trails, and Gerrod and I took our time, stopping to take lots of photos and appreciate the blue color of the glacier.

[![Perito Moreno Glacier](/assets/blog/perito-moreno-glacier-and-el-calafate/IMG_7046.JPG "Perito Moreno Glacier")](/assets/blog/perito-moreno-glacier-and-el-calafate/IMG_7046.JPG)

[![Perito Moreno Glacier with a view of Lago Argentina](/assets/blog/perito-moreno-glacier-and-el-calafate/IMG_7091.JPG "Perito Moreno Glacier with a view of Lago Argentina")](/assets/blog/perito-moreno-glacier-and-el-calafate/IMG_7091.JPG)

Chunks of ice were constantly falling off into the lake and were so loud! The sound of the ice echoed across the entire valley, and even seemingly “smaller chunks” made an incredibly loud noise. Everytime we would start to continue our walk, we would hear the glacier and quick stop to see how large of a piece it was!

[Perito Moreno Glacier Breaking](https://www.youtube.com/embed/QATmUFIjNRY)

After walking a majority of the trails, we sat on some of the benches near the northern portion of the glacier and ate a lunch that we packed. While we were eating, something strange happened! We ran into a couple we knew from Paraguay! To give some background, on our last night with Liz in Paraguay we had dinner with some other Peace Corps volunteers, and there was a couple that had just completed their service that was planning on traveling South America a bit before returning home. They had mentioned some of the places they were planning to go to, and some of them were places we were going. We thought we would likely not see each other since neither of us had solid dates planned yet, but here they were. After saying hi and chatting for a bit, we returned to the park building at the top to use the restrooms.

After using the restrooms, and watching the glacier one last time, we got back on our bus for our return trip to El Calafate.

## Some Cool Facts

Here are some of the cool facts our guide told us on our bus ride!

- Lago Argentina is the largest lake in Argentina.
- There are three main habitat types in the area around El Calafate: patagonian steppe, bosque andino patagonico, and high mountain.
- El Calafate was named after a blueberry-like bush called el calafate (berberis microphylla)
- All of the water in Lago Argentina is melt from the Perito Moreno Glacier.
- The glacier moves 2 meters a day!
- The glacier is formed when humid air comes across the pacific and becomes snow in the Andes. The compact snow in the mountains compresses into the glacier, which slowly gets pushed down the mountain. Because of this, the glacier is not currently affected by climate change, and is in the same place as it was 70 years ago!

## Time in El Calafate

Our first night in El Calafate, we decided to do some Christmas shopping since we were quickly approaching our trip back home for the holidays. We also walked around and checked out some of the artsy shops around El Calafate. After buying a fridge magnet and a few things for our family, we went to a place called Pietro's Cafe for dinner. I ordered filet mignon for dinner, because it was only 10 dollars. When it came out, there were two steaks and they were absolutely delicious!

So delicious that we ate there again on the second night, and BOTH of us ordered the filet mignon for dinner. The second night we also got ice cream at a place called Tito. We ordered El Calafate flavored since our guide said it was the local fruit to try. It was delicious, and tasted very much like blueberry!

## Time To Say Goodbye

The next morning we packed our bags, ate breakfast, and checked out of our hostel. Our Patagonia Dreams transportation showed up around 11:20, and we soon were on our way to the airport. The airport was so tiny! After not too long, we boarded our flight and headed to Mendoza to meet up with Josh (Gerrod’s little brother) and drink some delicious wine!

Until next time!

Love,

Lauren (and Gerrod)
]]></content:encoded>
            <author>bestseenonfoot@gmail.com (Lauren Schirtzinger)</author>
        </item>
        <item>
            <title><![CDATA[Hiking Fitz Roy from El Chaltén]]></title>
            <link>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/hiking-fitz-roy-from-el-chalten</link>
            <guid>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/hiking-fitz-roy-from-el-chalten</guid>
            <pubDate>Thu, 24 Jan 2019 17:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
            <description><![CDATA[Hey everyone! Lauren here to tell you about our Fitz Roy hike in El Chaltén...]]></description>
            <content:encoded><![CDATA[
Hey everyone! Lauren here to tell you about our Fitz Roy hike in El Chaltén!

## Getting to the Trailhead

We intended to wake up early to get on the trail since the map we received at the bus station said one way to Laguna de los Tres, the lake beneath Fitz Roy would take 4 hours. However, we slept in and after we cooked ourselves eggs and toast for breakfast, and got ready to go it was already 10am!

[![Start of the trail to Fitz Roy](/assets/blog/hiking-fitz-roy-from-el-chalten/IMG_20181204_101914.jpg "Start of the trail to Fitz Roy")](/assets/blog/hiking-fitz-roy-from-el-chalten/IMG_20181204_101914.jpg)

We hiked the the trailhead from our hostel, which was about 1.5 km. At the trailhead there was a place to fill your water bottles with potable water and a map of the trail. The map indicated that the trail was 10.2 km one way, which is about 6.3 miles.

[![We can drink the water!](/assets/blog/hiking-fitz-roy-from-el-chalten/IMG_20181204_102130.jpg "We can drink the water!")](/assets/blog/hiking-fitz-roy-from-el-chalten/IMG_20181204_102130.jpg)

[![A map of the trails around Fitz Roy](/assets/blog/hiking-fitz-roy-from-el-chalten/IMG_20181204_102139.jpg "A map of the trails around Fitz Roy")](/assets/blog/hiking-fitz-roy-from-el-chalten/IMG_20181204_102139.jpg)

## The Hike

The beginning of the hike was uphill, with a viewpoint called Mirador Río de las Vueltas not too far along the trail. The mirador had a beautiful view of the braided channel of the river below, and of course I used the view to explained braided river channels to Gerrod. After taking some pictures and finding a 4 leaf clover, we continued our trek uphill.

[![Mirador Río de las Vueltas](/assets/blog/hiking-fitz-roy-from-el-chalten/IMG_6892.JPG "Mirador Río de las Vueltas")](/assets/blog/hiking-fitz-roy-from-el-chalten/IMG_6892.JPG)

The trail continued uphill, and it seemed to go on forever because our feet were a little sore from the previous two days of hiking. But after about 5 km, the trail flattened out and we could truly appreciate the 360⁰ views.

[![Gerrod hiking on the flat area](/assets/blog/hiking-fitz-roy-from-el-chalten/IMG_6905.JPG "Gerrod hiking on the flat area")](/assets/blog/hiking-fitz-roy-from-el-chalten/IMG_6905.JPG)

[![A display of different summits that can be seen on the hike](/assets/blog/hiking-fitz-roy-from-el-chalten/IMG_6895.JPG "A display of different summits that can be seen on the hike")](/assets/blog/hiking-fitz-roy-from-el-chalten/IMG_6895.JPG)

[![The summits for real](/assets/blog/hiking-fitz-roy-from-el-chalten/IMG_6898.JPG "The summits for real")](/assets/blog/hiking-fitz-roy-from-el-chalten/IMG_6898.JPG)

We soon came to a fork in the trail, with the left trail going to a camp near Laguna Capri and the right trail towards Mirador del Fitz Roy. We opted to go to the mirador, which had absolutely stunning view of Fitz Roy.

## Approaching the Summit

As we continued the hike, we began walking through a wetland area (yay!) and across some beautiful streams. We also passed side trails to Madre de Hija and Piedras Blancas trail. I had my Garmin watch on which was keeping distance, and it was getting very close to 10 km. However, it seemed like the closer we got to 10km the less view we had of Fitz Roy.

[![Glacier water flowing down the mountain](/assets/blog/hiking-fitz-roy-from-el-chalten/IMG_20181204_124052.jpg "Glacier water flowing down the mountain")](/assets/blog/hiking-fitz-roy-from-el-chalten/IMG_20181204_124052.jpg)

We walked through a camp and soon came upon a sign that said “one hour to Lago de los Tres” My watch was already at 9.5km, so I figured the whole 10km map directions were false. We ate a few snacks and began our walk up to Lago de los Tres.

## Last Stretch to the Top

The 1 hour was so steep! It was way more difficult than the entire rest of the trail, and we were feeling very tired. So many people were passing us so we figured we were really out of shape, bad hikers. On our way up, we started seeing snow, and after walking 1.5km, we reached the top!

[![One more hill until Lago de los Tres](/assets/blog/hiking-fitz-roy-from-el-chalten/IMG_20181204_134015.jpg "One more hill until Lago de los Tres")](/assets/blog/hiking-fitz-roy-from-el-chalten/IMG_20181204_134015.jpg)

## Lunch with a View

The view was incredible! Lago de los Tres had large chunks of broken ice on it, and the sky was so clear you could see the entire mountain top. There were quite a few people at the top, many eating snacks/lunch and we decided to join the snack party. After eating snacks and taking a few photos, we decided to hike down right up next to the lake.

[![Taking a break at Lago de los Tres](/assets/blog/hiking-fitz-roy-from-el-chalten/IMG_6918.JPG "Taking a break at Lago de los Tres")](/assets/blog/hiking-fitz-roy-from-el-chalten/IMG_6918.JPG)

[![Ice chunks in Lago de los Tres](/assets/blog/hiking-fitz-roy-from-el-chalten/IMG_6934.JPG "Ice chunks in Lago de los Tres")](/assets/blog/hiking-fitz-roy-from-el-chalten/IMG_6934.JPG)

We also walked around to see Laguna Sucia, another lake just over a drop on the left side. It was very far down, and there was snow melt from Lago de los Tres flowing down the mountain to Laguna Sucia.

[![Laguna Sucia](/assets/blog/hiking-fitz-roy-from-el-chalten/IMG_6942.JPG "Laguna Sucia")](/assets/blog/hiking-fitz-roy-from-el-chalten/IMG_6942.JPG)

## Piedras Blancas

[![Gerrod hiking back down from the top](/assets/blog/hiking-fitz-roy-from-el-chalten/IMG_6954.JPG "Gerrod hiking back down from the top")](/assets/blog/hiking-fitz-roy-from-el-chalten/IMG_6954.JPG)

[![Lauren and Gerrod posing after a successful summit](/assets/blog/hiking-fitz-roy-from-el-chalten/IMG_6957.JPG "Lauren and Gerrod posing after a successful summit")](/assets/blog/hiking-fitz-roy-from-el-chalten/IMG_6957.JPG)

After our snacks and taking photos of the beautiful Fitz Roy, we began our trek back to town. Although we were feeling pretty sore, we decided to take the side trail to Mirador Piedras Blancas. The trail was fairly flat, and it was only about 2.5km before we got the the viewpoint. The view was incredible, and the glacier was huge. Although we were hesitant to add more distance to our already long hike, it was definitely worth it.

[![Fork in the road near Laguna Capri](/assets/blog/hiking-fitz-roy-from-el-chalten/IMG_20181204_114040.jpg "Fork in the road near Laguna Capri")](/assets/blog/hiking-fitz-roy-from-el-chalten/IMG_20181204_114040.jpg)

[![Fork to Mirador Piedras Blancas](/assets/blog/hiking-fitz-roy-from-el-chalten/IMG_20181204_123131.jpg "Fork to Mirador Piedras Blancas")](/assets/blog/hiking-fitz-roy-from-el-chalten/IMG_20181204_123131.jpg)

[![Mirador Piedras Blancas](/assets/blog/hiking-fitz-roy-from-el-chalten/20181212_225936.jpg "Mirador Piedras Blancas")](/assets/blog/hiking-fitz-roy-from-el-chalten/20181212_225936.jpg)

## The Way Back

After seeing Piedras Blancas the trail seemed to drag on due to our sore feet, but after a while we came back to the fork in the trail between the camp and the viewpoint, and this time opted to head towards Laguna Capri camp. The lake was beautiful, and we decided to take a break before continuing back to town.

[![Gerrod feeling the hike](/assets/blog/hiking-fitz-roy-from-el-chalten/IMG_6968.JPG "Gerrod feeling the hike")](/assets/blog/hiking-fitz-roy-from-el-chalten/IMG_6968.JPG)

By the time we got back to town, we had walked almost 30 km! According to my watch, we walked almost 19 miles, and had climbed an elevation of 3,629 feet! The hike was definitely worth it.

## Dinner

We were so hungry on the way back, that instead of waiting to buy food to cook, cook it, and then eat, we opted to stop and get food. We ended up at a place called B & B Beers & Burgers, which ended up having what we consider the best burgers we had in all of South America.
The restaurant was really full, so we ended up sharing a table with a couple from Germany and Switzerland. They had also just hiked Fitz Roy, and we mentioned to them how we felt everyone was so fast during the last steep incline, while we were dying! The couple informed us that this is because you can take a bus to a different trailhead which makes the hike much shorter and less difficult. This made us feel a lot better about our hiking abilities.

After eating we headed back to the hostel to shower and sleep forever.

Until next time!

Love,

Lauren (and Gerrod)
]]></content:encoded>
            <author>bestseenonfoot@gmail.com (Lauren Schirtzinger)</author>
        </item>
        <item>
            <title><![CDATA[El Chaltén: Hiking and Other Stuff Too]]></title>
            <link>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/el-chalten-hiking-and-other-stuff-too</link>
            <guid>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/el-chalten-hiking-and-other-stuff-too</guid>
            <pubDate>Tue, 22 Jan 2019 17:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
            <description><![CDATA[Hello Everyone! Gerrod here to fill you in on some of the things we chose to do with our time in El Chaltén...]]></description>
            <content:encoded><![CDATA[
Hello Everyone! Gerrod here to fill you in on some of the things we chose to do with our time in El Chaltén. This post covers pretty much everything we did other than the feature hike, Fitz Roy, that Lauren will talk about in a [future post](/posts/hiking-fitz-roy-from-el-chalten).

## Arrival

We finally arrived in El Chaltén around 7:30 am after our long 24 hour bus ride that I talked about in a [past post](/posts/buses-ii-busing-to-argentina-from-chile). I tried all of the ATMs again at the bus station since we were under the impression that we would need cash for everything in this town, but still we were unable to procure the cash. Luckily a friend we made on the bus ride was able to get us some cash and we paid him back with a digital wire transfer.

We talked with the tourist information specialist in the bus station after getting our money sorted out, and found that we actually would only need cash to eat out at restaurants potentially. We had read online that the hiking, food, and accommodations all cost money and only accepted cash. In reality, hiking were free and walkable from town, quite a few food joints accepted cards, and our accommodation should take credit card. After that awesome bit of information, we were given a map of the town with all of the hikes with some handwritten notes in it of other accommodations that should accept card in case ours did not.

[![Map of hikes around Glaciers National Park of Argentina](/assets/blog/el-chalten-hiking-and-other-stuff-too/IMG_6978.JPG "Map of hikes around Glaciers National Park of Argentina")](/assets/blog/el-chalten-hiking-and-other-stuff-too/IMG_6978.JPG)

## Checking In

We headed down the main road in town to our hostel, Hostel Los Viajeros, which was right at the end of the road. We talked to the owner who told us she could accept card, but we would have to wait until the afternoon to use our room. After dropping our bags behind the desk, we got on the WiFi which was super slow and kind of broken, and started charging our dead electronics.

The hostel owner told us the internet next door at Panaderia Y Cafeteria "Lo De Haydee" was much faster and it also doubled as a breakfast place! Score! As hungry as we were, we decided to stop over and eat, drink, and use the good WiFi. While ordering food, we encountered a Spanish word we thought we knew, “pollo” AKA chicken. We would pronounce “pollo” as “poy-yo”, but in Argentina they say “po-show”. It was a bit confusing at first, but we learned to get used to it, but it required a retraining of the ears and tongue.

## Blogging

After eating at the cafe, we spent some time attempting to work on our blog postings that we have fallen so far behind on. After being at the cafe for almost 3 hours, we went back to the hostel lobby to continue working since we felt we overstayed our welcome at the cafe.

While we were trying to get some stuff done, the owner of the hostel’s daughter decided it would be fun to play with us. This ended in us making a bunch of paper airplanes while she said random numbers in spanish as a countdown and then we would all throw them at the wall. When we weren’t doing that, she played with Lauren’s red, sturdy, waterproof camera by taking a ton of pictures of the two of us and random things around the lobby. Eventually she got distracted by some other kids outside and our room was finally ready at 3pm, so we could shower and relax after our long bus ride.

## Dinner

After some relaxation time, we decided to go to dinner. We wandered around the small town for some time before we found a place that would accept credit cards. The place was called Nomade Resto Bar. We had a pretty solid meal and some beer and wine. Interestingly, the beer and wine cost just as much as the water!

After dinner we picked up some supplies from the grocery store for the next day and finally called it a night.

## First Hike: Torre

The next morning we prepared for our hike, Sendero Al Torre. We made some breakfast, which took longer than it should have because we could not figure out how to turn the burners on. We figured out you needed to turn the main gas line on manually before turning on the stove. We also burnt most of the eggs to the pan since the hostel had no communal butter or oil. Needless to say it was a rough start to the morning.

We finally headed out to the trail around 10am. According to the map, the trail was 11km to the last viewpoint. The hike began uphill, but flattened out fairly quickly. The trail was through a very beautiful valley surrounded mountains. The first viewpoint along the trail was Mirador Torre where we stopped and snapped some photos. On our way to the viewpoint we saw a sign next to a small stream along the trail that said the stream water was potable!

[![Lauren at Mirador Torre](/assets/blog/el-chalten-hiking-and-other-stuff-too/IMG_6808.JPG "Lauren at Mirador Torre")](/assets/blog/el-chalten-hiking-and-other-stuff-too/IMG_6808.JPG)

[![Gerrod hiking at Mirador Torre](/assets/blog/el-chalten-hiking-and-other-stuff-too/IMG_6809.JPG "Gerrod hiking at Mirador Torre")](/assets/blog/el-chalten-hiking-and-other-stuff-too/IMG_6809.JPG)

There were many trees and shrubs along the trail after the viewpoint that Lauren commented on saying “It smells like Christmas.” Later, Lauren researched what the plant might have been that smelled so good and found that it was Antarctic beech ([Nothofagus antarctica](https://herbaria.plants.ox.ac.uk/bol/plants400/Profiles/MN/Nothofagus)).

Towards the end of the hike we reached Laguna Torre where we sat and had some snacks. The lake was made up of melted ice from an ice field not far behind it, and had very interesting brownish, bluish, grayish, looking water. There were several chunks of blue glacier ice floating on the water. It was very windy around the lake, and after sitting and eating our snacks we got very cold very quick.

[![Laguna Torre](/assets/blog/el-chalten-hiking-and-other-stuff-too/IMG_6811.JPG "Laguna Torre")](/assets/blog/el-chalten-hiking-and-other-stuff-too/IMG_6811.JPG)

[![Laguna Torre with trees crawling up the mountain](/assets/blog/el-chalten-hiking-and-other-stuff-too/IMG_6818.JPG "Laguna Torre with trees crawling up the mountain")](/assets/blog/el-chalten-hiking-and-other-stuff-too/IMG_6818.JPG)

### Mirador Maestri

After some snacking we decided to follow a ridge line behind us to the last viewpoint on the map for this hike, Mirador Maestri. This wind along the ridge was so much stronger than down near the lake! It was so strong that it would push you and almost knock you over. We only had one walking pole for stability, so we had to walk very slowly so we didn’t get blown off of the ridge.

On our way to the viewpoint, we stopped and filled out water bottles at a small waterfall off the trail we were following. It tasted so fresh and was so cold! Fun fact: most of the water in the mountains around El Chaltén is drinkable!

[![Filling water bottles with mountain water](/assets/blog/el-chalten-hiking-and-other-stuff-too/IMG_6825.JPG "Filling water bottles with mountain water")](/assets/blog/el-chalten-hiking-and-other-stuff-too/IMG_6825.JPG)

We hit a dead end in the trail that we assumed was the viewpoint. There was no sign, but according to Lauren’s Garmin watch, we had walked a little more than 11km. We were able to see even more of the ice field from that angle and it was spectacular.

[![Gerrod clambering down Mirador Maestri](/assets/blog/el-chalten-hiking-and-other-stuff-too/IMG_6836.JPG "Gerrod clambering down Mirador Maestri")](/assets/blog/el-chalten-hiking-and-other-stuff-too/IMG_6836.JPG)

[![Lauren looking in aw at Mirador Maestri](/assets/blog/el-chalten-hiking-and-other-stuff-too/IMG_6850.JPG "Lauren looking in aw at Mirador Maestri")](/assets/blog/el-chalten-hiking-and-other-stuff-too/IMG_6850.JPG)

## Living the Life

We were able to get home around 5pm following our 10am start. To follow in the tradition of the day we made some spaghetti dinner and burnt a lot of the noodles to the bottom of the pan… We needed to do some laundry, so after dinner we went to a place across the street and set a pick up time for the next day at 5pm. Before going to bed we had some hot cocoa at our favorite cafe next door and worked on our blog a bit more.

## Shorter Hikes

The next day, we headed over to the cafe for breakfast and more blog work. While we worked, the guy we met from Italy who helped us on our cash situation when we first arrived came into the cafe. We hung out with him for a bit and caught up. After he left for his day of adventure, we finally got a post up for all of you to read (yay!). After getting the post up, we we decided to do some of the shorter hikes close to town.

### Miradors de Los Cóndores and Las Águilas

There were 2 viewpoints along our first hike: Miradors de Los Cóndores and Miradors de Las Águilas. It was a very beautiful, sunny day and the hikes were fairly easy and quick to do. The beginning of the trail was rather steep, but there were several signs along the trail to read with information about condors that gave us an excuse to stop and catch our breath. The condor viewpoint was only 1km from town, and when we finally got to the top there was a gorgeous view of all of El Chaltén and the surrounding mountains.

[![The town of El Chaltén](/assets/blog/el-chalten-hiking-and-other-stuff-too/20181203_135412.jpg "The town of El Chaltén")](/assets/blog/el-chalten-hiking-and-other-stuff-too/20181203_135412.jpg)

The wind at the top was outrageous! Check out this video of how it affected my banana eating.

[Bananaflap](https://www.youtube.com/embed/kg0HXWVrsdI)

After eating our bananas at the condor viewpoint, we headed to the next viewpoint along the trail. The next viewpoint, Águilas, was only another 1km from town. It had an incredible view of both valleys below, and we spent some time exploring the area around the ridge.

[![Hiking near Miradors de Los Cóndores and Miradors de Las Águilas](/assets/blog/el-chalten-hiking-and-other-stuff-too/IMG_6867.JPG "Hiking near Miradors de Los Cóndores and Miradors de Las Águilas")](/assets/blog/el-chalten-hiking-and-other-stuff-too/IMG_6867.JPG)

[![Lauren enjoying the sunny valley of Miradors de Los Cóndores and Miradors de Las Águilas](/assets/blog/el-chalten-hiking-and-other-stuff-too/IMG_6873.JPG "Lauren enjoying the sunny valley of Miradors de Los Cóndores and Miradors de Las Águilas")](/assets/blog/el-chalten-hiking-and-other-stuff-too/IMG_6873.JPG)

After taking some photos, and eating more snacks, we headed back to town. The walk back to town was mostly downhill and went pretty quick. When we got back to town, we went to the store to get some groceries for our next few meals and tried to do some souvenir shopping to buy an Argentina magnet. We checked on our laundry to see if it was done yet, and found out that it was done earlier than expected! We put all of our laundry away, and prepared for our next short hike.

### Chorrillo del Salto

[![Valley on our way to Chorrillo del Salto](/assets/blog/el-chalten-hiking-and-other-stuff-too/IMG_6876.JPG "Valley on our way to Chorrillo del Salto")](/assets/blog/el-chalten-hiking-and-other-stuff-too/IMG_6876.JPG)

Our next short hiking destination was Chorrillo del Salto. Salto means waterfall in Spanish, so as you might be able to guess, the end of this hike was a waterfall! We thought it would be only 3km hike to the waterfall, but it took us about 2km just to get to the trailhead from our hostel. When we reached the waterfall, we sat and had some snacks while we enjoyed the peace. I would say peace AND quiet, but there were some people were playing music and flying drones.

[![Chorrillo del Salto](/assets/blog/el-chalten-hiking-and-other-stuff-too/IMG_6884.JPG "Chorrillo del Salto")](/assets/blog/el-chalten-hiking-and-other-stuff-too/IMG_6884.JPG)

[![Lovely view of Fitz Roy near Chorrillo del Salto](/assets/blog/el-chalten-hiking-and-other-stuff-too/IMG_6969.JPG "Lovely view of Fitz Roy near Chorrillo del Salto")](/assets/blog/el-chalten-hiking-and-other-stuff-too/IMG_6969.JPG)

## Living the Dream

After the waterfall hike, we came home to make a lovely dinner of ramen and grilled cheeses. After we cleaned ourselves up, we went to the lobby to work on some more travel logistics while we drank some cider and beer we bought at the grocery store earlier; Living the dream.

I hope you enjoyed learning somethings about El Chaltén and stay tuned for the upcoming post on Fitz Roy!

Love,

Gerrod (and Lauren)
]]></content:encoded>
            <author>bestseenonfoot@gmail.com (Gerrod Schirtzinger)</author>
        </item>
        <item>
            <title><![CDATA[Buses II: Busing to Argentina from Chile]]></title>
            <link>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/buses-ii-busing-to-argentina-from-chile</link>
            <guid>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/buses-ii-busing-to-argentina-from-chile</guid>
            <pubDate>Wed, 16 Jan 2019 17:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
            <description><![CDATA[Hello Everyone! Gerrod here again to talk some more about busing through South America. Welcome to the sequel...]]></description>
            <content:encoded><![CDATA[
Hello Everyone! Gerrod here again to talk some more about busing through South America. Welcome to the sequel and final bus voyage in Chile taking us from Puerto Montt, Chile to El Chaltén, Argentina.

## Bus Three: Puerto Montt to Bariloche

[![Gerrod and Lauren enjoying the walk with backpacks](/assets/blog/buses-ii-busing-to-argentina-from-chile/IMG_20181129_073342.jpg "Gerrod and Lauren enjoying the walk with backpacks")](/assets/blog/buses-ii-busing-to-argentina-from-chile/IMG_20181129_073342.jpg)

[![Lauren backpacking to the bus at Puerto Montt](/assets/blog/buses-ii-busing-to-argentina-from-chile/IMG_20181129_073324.jpg "Lauren backpacking to the bus at Puerto Montt")](/assets/blog/buses-ii-busing-to-argentina-from-chile/IMG_20181129_073324.jpg)

If you have been following along so far this bus ride is the third of the series. We started our day at 6:30am and walked down to the bus station after checking out. We got ourselves a small breakfast at a stand in the bus station and made our way to the bus that was scheduled to leave at 8:15am. Everything was going smooth so far, but everything was about to change...

[![Gerrod really feeling the bags](/assets/blog/buses-ii-busing-to-argentina-from-chile/IMG_20181129_073403.jpg "Gerrod really feeling the bags")](/assets/blog/buses-ii-busing-to-argentina-from-chile/IMG_20181129_073403.jpg)

### Lesson Three: Do Not Throw Away Anything From Customs

First we were asked for tickets, then our passports, then our “papeles” or “papers” in English. I immediately had a sinking feeling in the pit of my stomach as I thought maybe they were the receipts we received in the airport on arrival that I had tossed in our first accomodation. After Lauren spent time asking them what these papeles were, my worst fears were confirmed when a couple from Japan had the same confusing conversation, but after rifling through their passports they happened to still have them.

After a very frustrating conversation with the bus people trying to communicate that we threw it away and we don’t know what to do, one of the bus ticketing officer on the bus and were given very specific instructions on how to remedy the situation.

Basically the ticketing officer told us if we were to leave the station ASAP and get to the PDI (Investigations Police of Chile) Office in Osorno, where the bus had an extra long stop, we would have enough time to get new papers and board the bus.

### The Race is On

First we grabbed a few hundred USD worth of Chilean pesos from a nearby ATM. Next we found a premium taxi service and explained our situation to them and asked if they could take us to Osorno which was basically two major towns north of Puerto Montt. So we hopped in the very expensive, 100 USD taxi ride and sped off to Osorno.

[![PDI office with example of the paper visa ticket](/assets/blog/buses-ii-busing-to-argentina-from-chile/IMG_20181129_095030.jpg "PDI office with example of the paper visa ticket")](/assets/blog/buses-ii-busing-to-argentina-from-chile/IMG_20181129_095030.jpg)

Once we got to the police office we got new papers for free after answering some very basic questions that they did not seem to concerned with. The taxi driver waited on us and then took us to the nearby bus terminal. We actually ended up beating our bus, and we were able to board with no issues and leave at 10:30am.

### Resume the Trip

We continued the rest of the bus trip with no issues. When we finally hit the border along the mountains we were asked for our passports and papers. We did not have any bags checked and it seems like they could have just scanned our passports to confirm that we came into and then left the country, but wasting paper seems just as effective.
[![Gerrod on the bus](/assets/blog/buses-ii-busing-to-argentina-from-chile/20181129_125417.jpg "Gerrod on the bus")](/assets/blog/buses-ii-busing-to-argentina-from-chile/20181129_125417.jpg)

## Finally in Argentina

We continued the ride through the mountains until we finally hit the Argentinian checkpoint. We went through customs where we did not receive random receipts that we would need to hold on to. They scanned our checked bags that were under the bus and then just looked at the top of our book bags to see if anything was suspicious looking I guess. I would say that it would have been super easy to smuggle something through the bus checkpoints if you really wanted to.

[![Pit stop in the Andes](/assets/blog/buses-ii-busing-to-argentina-from-chile/20181129_125503.jpg "Pit stop in the Andes")](/assets/blog/buses-ii-busing-to-argentina-from-chile/20181129_125503.jpg)

[![Driving through the Andes mountains](/assets/blog/buses-ii-busing-to-argentina-from-chile/20181129_125736.jpg "Driving through the Andes mountains")](/assets/blog/buses-ii-busing-to-argentina-from-chile/20181129_125736.jpg)

We finally arrived in Bariloche after a very pleasant bus ride with [Andesmar](https://www.andesmar.com/en/), which we received drinks and snacks on.

### Bariloche and the Search for Food and Money

We walked to our hostel, Lo De Max, since we had not yet had a chance to withdraw Argentinian Pesos from an ATM, and therefore did not have cash for a taxi. After checking in for the night we talked with the owner about an early breakfast and the best way to the bus station for a bus at 7am.

We headed downtown to try to get some money out at an ATM and get some dinner. The view from the city was amazing and we wished we could have spent another day there to really appreciate what it had to offer. The city itself was even beautiful especially the old square at the end of the main drag called Centro Cívico Bariloche.

[![The view at Bariloche](/assets/blog/buses-ii-busing-to-argentina-from-chile/IMG_20181129_191711-PANO.jpg "The view at Bariloche")](/assets/blog/buses-ii-busing-to-argentina-from-chile/IMG_20181129_191711-PANO.jpg)

[![Centro Cívico Bariloche](/assets/blog/buses-ii-busing-to-argentina-from-chile/IMG_20181129_200303.jpg "Centro Cívico Bariloche")](/assets/blog/buses-ii-busing-to-argentina-from-chile/IMG_20181129_200303.jpg)

[![Lake Nahuel Huapi Lake](/assets/blog/buses-ii-busing-to-argentina-from-chile/IMG_20181129_200528.jpg "Lake Nahuel Huapi Lake")](/assets/blog/buses-ii-busing-to-argentina-from-chile/IMG_20181129_200528.jpg)

We tried several ATMs as we walked around town and realized that none of them were working for us. I called my bank and it seemed they put a hold on my card after my withdrawal for the expensive taxi race in Chile. We tried again after removing the hold with no luck… At that same time we met someone from Germany having similar issues who would be joining us on the bus the next day. We joined up and looked for more ATMs until she found one that worked for her. I tried it and still nothing. I called Chase again and this time they said that maybe my card chip malfunctioned, so I could try cash advances with my credit card if I really needed cash.

Since cash advances hit you with tons of fees we decided we would try to do our best with credit cards only. We headed back to the hostel while keeping an eye out for places that took card for dinner. El Mundo Pizzas y Pastas was the place we ended up going to and it was great pizza and they accepted credit card.
After eating we headed back to the hostel to pay with card, eating the 5% fee which was still better than a cash advance. We then prepared for the next bus ride that would take us to El Chaltén in the morning.

[![Lauren enjoying pizza at El Mundo Pizzas y Pastas](/assets/blog/buses-ii-busing-to-argentina-from-chile/IMG_20181129_212553.jpg "Lauren enjoying pizza at El Mundo Pizzas y Pastas")](/assets/blog/buses-ii-busing-to-argentina-from-chile/IMG_20181129_212553.jpg)

## Bus Four: Bariloche to El Chaltén

We had another early start and a long walk down to the bus station. Our hostel owner left us some pastries and juice, so we could have some breakfast before we left. We boarded the bus with no problems after waiting in line with the girl from germany and a guy we met from Italy.

[![The bus to El Chaltén](/assets/blog/buses-ii-busing-to-argentina-from-chile/IMG_20181130_141018.jpg "The bus to El Chaltén")](/assets/blog/buses-ii-busing-to-argentina-from-chile/IMG_20181130_141018.jpg)

We started the 24 hour bus ride and realized very soon that we would not be getting any food again. Luckily we made many stops where we were able to purchase food and drinks with card along the way. The only other issue with the bus was the lack of entertainment (they had TVs, but never turned them on) and charging ports. So far the buses had USB ports so we could keep things charged, but this one had nothing so once our stuff died it was dead until the end of the journey.

When everything died all that we could do was try to sleep. We had front seats this time, so at least we could see the sights when there was things to see, and we got some extra leg room.

[![Front row seats on the bus](/assets/blog/buses-ii-busing-to-argentina-from-chile/20181130_145453.jpg "Front row seats on the bus")](/assets/blog/buses-ii-busing-to-argentina-from-chile/20181130_145453.jpg)

After a long ride we finally arrived in El Chaltén around 7:30 am. Stay tuned for the lovely hikes of El Chaltén in a future post!

Love,

Gerrod (and Lauren)
]]></content:encoded>
            <author>bestseenonfoot@gmail.com (Gerrod Schirtzinger)</author>
        </item>
        <item>
            <title><![CDATA[Puerto Montt and the Los Lagos region of Chile Part 2: Parque Nacional Puyehue and Another Failed Park Visit!]]></title>
            <link>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-2-parque-nacional-puyehue-and-another-failed-park-visit</link>
            <guid>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-2-parque-nacional-puyehue-and-another-failed-park-visit</guid>
            <pubDate>Mon, 14 Jan 2019 17:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
            <description><![CDATA[Hey everyone! Lauren here to tell you about the rest of our time in Puerto Montt and the Los Lagos region of Chile...]]></description>
            <content:encoded><![CDATA[
Hey everyone! Lauren here to tell you about the rest of our time in Puerto Montt and the Los Lagos region of Chile.

## Parque Nacional Puyehue

The next day in Puerto Montt, we got gas from a nearby station that Gerrod stalled on our way out of the lot, because he had the car in 3rd gear instead of 1st without realizing it. We then made the two hour drive to Centro Turístico Anticura Parque Nacional Puyehue.

We stopped at one viewpoint on the way to take pictures of Volcán Osorno from a different perspective, plus we finally figured out the bluetooth in the car which made driving very nice.

[![View of Volcán Osorno](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-2-parque-nacional-puyehue-and-another-failed-park-visit/IMG_6675.JPG "View of Volcán Osorno")](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-2-parque-nacional-puyehue-and-another-failed-park-visit/IMG_6675.JPG)

### Parque Nacional Puyehue Waterfalls

When we finally arrived at the Centro Turístico Anticura Parque Nacional Puyehue, we paid a 1000 peso per person fee and were provided with a map with walking trails to waterfalls in the area. There were 5 waterfalls, and we were pretty much the only people there! We took our time walking all of the trails, and had a snack break in the woods. The forest was very dense and it was very relaxing (to me).

[![Trail map of Parque Nacional Puyehue](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-2-parque-nacional-puyehue-and-another-failed-park-visit/IMG_20181127_123709.jpg "Trail map of Parque Nacional Puyehue")](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-2-parque-nacional-puyehue-and-another-failed-park-visit/IMG_20181127_123709.jpg)

[![Indio Trail](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-2-parque-nacional-puyehue-and-another-failed-park-visit/IMG_20181127_125145.jpg "Indio Trail")](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-2-parque-nacional-puyehue-and-another-failed-park-visit/IMG_20181127_125145.jpg)

[![Lauren hiking the dense trail](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-2-parque-nacional-puyehue-and-another-failed-park-visit/IMG_20181127_125320.jpg "Lauren hiking the dense trail")](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-2-parque-nacional-puyehue-and-another-failed-park-visit/IMG_20181127_125320.jpg)

[![Lauren relaxing in a tree at Parque Nacional Puyehue](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-2-parque-nacional-puyehue-and-another-failed-park-visit/IMG_6682.JPG "Lauren relaxing in a tree at Parque Nacional Puyehue")](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-2-parque-nacional-puyehue-and-another-failed-park-visit/IMG_6682.JPG)

[![Waterfall at Parque Nacional Puyehue](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-2-parque-nacional-puyehue-and-another-failed-park-visit/IMG_6687.JPG "Waterfall at Parque Nacional Puyehue")](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-2-parque-nacional-puyehue-and-another-failed-park-visit/IMG_6687.JPG)

[![Crazier Waterfall at Parque Nacional Puyehue](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-2-parque-nacional-puyehue-and-another-failed-park-visit/IMG_6708.JPG "Crazier Waterfall at Parque Nacional Puyehue")](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-2-parque-nacional-puyehue-and-another-failed-park-visit/IMG_6708.JPG)

[![Selfie at the waterfalls](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-2-parque-nacional-puyehue-and-another-failed-park-visit/IMG_20181127_131315.jpg "Selfie at the waterfalls")](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-2-parque-nacional-puyehue-and-another-failed-park-visit/IMG_20181127_131315.jpg)

[![La princesa trail](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-2-parque-nacional-puyehue-and-another-failed-park-visit/IMG_20181127_132141.jpg "La princesa trail")](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-2-parque-nacional-puyehue-and-another-failed-park-visit/IMG_20181127_132141.jpg)

[![Larger Waterfall at Parque Nacional Puyehue](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-2-parque-nacional-puyehue-and-another-failed-park-visit/IMG_6697.JPG "Larger Waterfall at Parque Nacional Puyehue")](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-2-parque-nacional-puyehue-and-another-failed-park-visit/IMG_6697.JPG)

[![Fork in the trail to Repucura or Exit](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-2-parque-nacional-puyehue-and-another-failed-park-visit/IMG_20181127_133540.jpg "Fork in the trail to Repucura or Exit")](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-2-parque-nacional-puyehue-and-another-failed-park-visit/IMG_20181127_133540.jpg)

[![Rio Anticura trail](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-2-parque-nacional-puyehue-and-another-failed-park-visit/IMG_20181127_145102.jpg "Rio Anticura trail")](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-2-parque-nacional-puyehue-and-another-failed-park-visit/IMG_20181127_145102.jpg)

[![Gerrod Snacking at Parque Nacional Puyehue](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-2-parque-nacional-puyehue-and-another-failed-park-visit/IMG_6717.JPG "Gerrod Snacking at Parque Nacional Puyehue")](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-2-parque-nacional-puyehue-and-another-failed-park-visit/IMG_6717.JPG)

[![Testing Photography Skills at Parque Nacional Puyehue](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-2-parque-nacional-puyehue-and-another-failed-park-visit/IMG_6752.JPG "Testing Photography Skills at Parque Nacional Puyehue")](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-2-parque-nacional-puyehue-and-another-failed-park-visit/IMG_6752.JPG)

[![More waterfalls at Parque Nacional Puyehue](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-2-parque-nacional-puyehue-and-another-failed-park-visit/IMG_20181127_145503.jpg "More waterfalls at Parque Nacional Puyehue")](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-2-parque-nacional-puyehue-and-another-failed-park-visit/IMG_20181127_145503.jpg)

[![Pudu trail](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-2-parque-nacional-puyehue-and-another-failed-park-visit/IMG_20181127_150240.jpg "Pudu trail")](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-2-parque-nacional-puyehue-and-another-failed-park-visit/IMG_20181127_150240.jpg)

### Relaxing in the hot springs at Termas Aguas Calientes

After our hikes, we went to Termas Aguas Calientes and walked a nice wooded path there followed by a hot spring dip. We did not pay for parking since there was no guard, but had to pay the cafe guy 4500 chilean pesos to get tickets to the [hot springs](https://www.termasaguascalientes.cl/daypass/).

[![Lauren crossing the river](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-2-parque-nacional-puyehue-and-another-failed-park-visit/IMG_20181127_152338.jpg "Lauren crossing the river")](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-2-parque-nacional-puyehue-and-another-failed-park-visit/IMG_20181127_152338.jpg)

[![Lauren posing as the park mascot](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-2-parque-nacional-puyehue-and-another-failed-park-visit/IMG_20181127_164100.jpg "Lauren posing as the park mascot")](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-2-parque-nacional-puyehue-and-another-failed-park-visit/IMG_20181127_164100.jpg)

The hot water felt so great after so many days of hiking, and it was right next to the river so we got to enjoy the outdoors still.

[![Calm river near the hot springs](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-2-parque-nacional-puyehue-and-another-failed-park-visit/IMG_20181127_165046.jpg "Calm river near the hot springs")](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-2-parque-nacional-puyehue-and-another-failed-park-visit/IMG_20181127_165046.jpg)

[![Hot springs!](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-2-parque-nacional-puyehue-and-another-failed-park-visit/IMG_20181127_165047.jpg "Hot springs!")](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-2-parque-nacional-puyehue-and-another-failed-park-visit/IMG_20181127_165047.jpg)

[![The rapids](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-2-parque-nacional-puyehue-and-another-failed-park-visit/IMG_20181127_165241.jpg "The rapids")](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-2-parque-nacional-puyehue-and-another-failed-park-visit/IMG_20181127_165241.jpg)

[![Lauren the tree hugger](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-2-parque-nacional-puyehue-and-another-failed-park-visit/IMG_20181127_171445.jpg "Lauren the tree hugger")](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-2-parque-nacional-puyehue-and-another-failed-park-visit/IMG_20181127_171445.jpg)

There were a few other people in the hot spring pool, including a mom and her two kids. They stuck out to me because the kids were speaking English with an American accent, but the mom kept speaking to them in Spanish. The kids would then respond to her in English and she would tell them no, you need to do it in spanish! The little girl then started crying that she “didn’t want to learn Spanish”. If only I could tell them how helpful it would be to have learned it as a kid!

After our hot spring soak we headed home to eat dinner and get some rest.

## Another failed park visit: Parque Nacional Alerce Andino

[![Welcome to the park! (that is actually closed)](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-2-parque-nacional-puyehue-and-another-failed-park-visit/IMG_20181128_122850.jpg "Welcome to the park! (that is actually closed)")](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-2-parque-nacional-puyehue-and-another-failed-park-visit/IMG_20181128_122850.jpg)

We got kind of a late start the next day due to finding a way to print our bus ticket for the following day. After tracking down a printer in town, we prepared for another day of hiking. I was particularly excited, as the Parque Nacional Alerce Andino had a 3,000 year old tree, and I really like trees!

We followed directions via Maps.ME, which took us to a small gravel road past the posted entrance to the park. The road had a very steep portion that our rental car could not make it up, so we had to turn around and ended up on the larger gravel road that was posted with a small entrance sign.

The driveway to the park is very long. It is only wide enough for about 1.5 cars, so it is difficult to drive quickly due to traffic coming from the other direction. After we had been driving for awhile, a car coming from the other direction stopped us and told us the park was closed because the workers were on strike…..

Not wanting to believe it and being less than 1km from the entrance, we continued to the end of the road to find out it was true. The park was closed and we could not enter. We contemplated hopping the fence, but decided we didn’t want to get arrested. Another couple pulled up to where we were parked and hopped the fence themselves and immediately got yelled at which confirmed that it was a bad idea.

[![Closed entrance to Parque Nacional Alerce Andino](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-2-parque-nacional-puyehue-and-another-failed-park-visit/IMG_20181128_122821.jpg "Closed entrance to Parque Nacional Alerce Andino")](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-2-parque-nacional-puyehue-and-another-failed-park-visit/IMG_20181128_122821.jpg)

A fox came up to the gate while we were there which was pretty cool to see.

[![Fox at the gate to Parque Nacional Alerce Andino](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-2-parque-nacional-puyehue-and-another-failed-park-visit/IMG_6756.JPG "Fox at the gate to Parque Nacional Alerce Andino")](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-2-parque-nacional-puyehue-and-another-failed-park-visit/IMG_6756.JPG)

## Viewpoint and beach

Since all of the parks in the area were apparently closed, and it was only 1pm, we decided to stop at a viewpoint that I found on Maps.ME with a great view of the bay and Puerto Montt. We had to do a U turn using a roundabout to get to the viewpoint parking, but the traffic was very light so this was not difficult.

[![Gerrod driving us back to town](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-2-parque-nacional-puyehue-and-another-failed-park-visit/IMG_20181128_132750.jpg "Gerrod driving us back to town")](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-2-parque-nacional-puyehue-and-another-failed-park-visit/IMG_20181128_132750.jpg)

There were several parking spots along the street, and we got out of the car and headed to the viewpoint. The viewpoint ended up being a fake cruise ship type boat made of concrete. The fake boat had a fake mast and anchor, and even had a spiral staircase up to a platform to get an even better view of the city. We spent time taking funny pictures before heading down the steps to the adjoining beach.

[![Lauren looking cool near the concrete ship](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-2-parque-nacional-puyehue-and-another-failed-park-visit/IMG_20181128_135939-PANO.jpg "Lauren looking cool near the concrete ship")](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-2-parque-nacional-puyehue-and-another-failed-park-visit/IMG_20181128_135939-PANO.jpg)

[![Gerrod recreating the Titanic at the Puerto Montt viewpoint](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-2-parque-nacional-puyehue-and-another-failed-park-visit/IMG_6775.JPG "Gerrod recreating the Titanic at the Puerto Montt viewpoint")](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-2-parque-nacional-puyehue-and-another-failed-park-visit/IMG_6775.JPG)

We assumed it was low tide, as there was live seaweed and shells growing all over the beach! After poking around for a bit and trying not to get our feet wet, we headed back to our rental car and went to a nearby gas station to fill up before texting the rental car employee on WhatsApp so he could come pick it up.

[![The bay near Puerto Montt](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-2-parque-nacional-puyehue-and-another-failed-park-visit/IMG_6761.JPG "The bay near Puerto Montt")](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-2-parque-nacional-puyehue-and-another-failed-park-visit/IMG_6761.JPG)

## Grocery shopping

After Carlos came to pick up our rental car, we headed to the local supermarket. We needed a few essentials such as deodorant and snacks, but we were also looking for moustache grooming scissors since Gerrod’s stache was starting to grow too long. We went to a place called Lider, which is owned by the large American supermarket chain, Walmart. Since Walmart has literally everything you could hope for, we assumed Lider would be stocked.

We walked throughout the entire store looking for small scissors to groom Gerrod’s beard, and couldn't find a single pair of scissors! About to give up, Gerrod finally spotted a pair of scissors…in the baby section. So Gerrod is now trimming his moustache with tiny purple baby scissors that we found in a small manicure set in the baby section… Very manly.

## Final Dinner and Goodbye to Puerto Montt

Since we had a rather disappointing day, Gerrod and I decided to treat ourselves to a nice dinner. I really wanted to get some good salmon since I read online that Puerto Montt was known for their salmon. We headed down to the main square thinking we would stumble upon something that looked good (and had salmon on the menu). We ended up at a restaurant called Sherlock.

Gerrod and I ordered a bottle of wine and I tried to order a salmon meal. Unfortunately they did not have salmon at the time, but our waiter recommended some type of fish to me that I had never heard of and I decided to try it. After a quick Google search, I found that I actually ordered Conger eel! I had never had eel before, but it was absolutely delicious and the perfect meal for our last night in Puerto Montt.

[![Eel Dinner at Sherlock](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-2-parque-nacional-puyehue-and-another-failed-park-visit/IMG_20181128_210837.jpg "Eel Dinner at Sherlock")](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-2-parque-nacional-puyehue-and-another-failed-park-visit/IMG_20181128_210837.jpg)

Although Los Lagos and Puerto Montt are not as popular of a tourist destination as the famous Torres Del Paine located in Southern Chile, there was a lot to offer and it was very easy to traverse. I would love to make a road trip out of the region in both Chile and Argentina as a future trip.

Until next time!

Love,

Lauren (and Gerrod)
]]></content:encoded>
            <author>bestseenonfoot@gmail.com (Lauren Schirtzinger)</author>
        </item>
        <item>
            <title><![CDATA[12 Hours in Santiago]]></title>
            <link>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/12-hours-in-santiago</link>
            <guid>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/12-hours-in-santiago</guid>
            <pubDate>Sun, 13 Jan 2019 17:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
            <description><![CDATA[Hello again everyone! Gerrod here to fill you in on how we spent our 12 hour “layover” in Santiago, Chile...]]></description>
            <content:encoded><![CDATA[
Hello again everyone! Gerrod here to fill you in on how we spent our 12 hour “layover” in Santiago, Chile. If you have been keeping up with our posts you may recall that we had a stop over in Santiago between very long bus rides through Chile that I had [mentioned](/posts/long-but-reliable-buses-of-chile). This post will give you an idea of some things to do in Santiago if you only have about 12 hours.

## Arrival and Planning

We arrived to the terminal just before 7am, and the first thing we needed to do was buy tickets for our next bus. There were several “self-serve” machines to buy bus tickets, so we attempted to use one. As it turns out all of the machines were all partially broken, so we headed over to the ticket counter where there were several people in line. We purchased tickets for 9:50 pm that night, and looked for a place to store our bags.

After asking for directions and wandering through the basement of the terminal, we found the luggage storage desk where we were able to store our luggage for 10,000 pesos which was about 15 USD at the time.

Next we walked to Estación Central which was where Google Maps had listed an open Starbucks. We took some time to drink coffee, have a snack, and plan accommodations at Puerto Montt for our arrival the next day. After some time talking over what we would do for the rest of the day and some of the rest of our trip, we walked over to a breakfast looking place next door called Melba. It seemed like a chain from an English nation like New Zealand perhaps, but wherever it was from it was tasty and filling.

[![Lauren and our filling breakfast](/assets/blog/12-hours-in-santiago/IMG_20181123_103722.jpg "Lauren and our filling breakfast")](/assets/blog/12-hours-in-santiago/IMG_20181123_103722.jpg)

## Seeing Some Sights

In order to stretch our legs we decided to walk to Plaza de Armas. It was not the shortest walk, but after 22 hours on a bus it felt great. We walked by so many shops and street vendors who were all having Black Friday deals, so everywhere we walked was very busy.

[![Cafes in Plaza de Armas](/assets/blog/12-hours-in-santiago/IMG_20181123_120642.jpg "Cafes in Plaza de Armas")](/assets/blog/12-hours-in-santiago/IMG_20181123_120642.jpg)

After arriving in Plaza de Armas we took some time to take in the sights and take pictures. Some time passed and we decided to head back towards the station. Our walk near the plaza seemed like a very nice part of town, as the roads were mostly closed for pedestrians and there were cafes and shops everywhere. As we neared the station we decided to stock up on snacks and water for the upcoming bus ride.

[![Crazy head statue in Plaza de Armas](/assets/blog/12-hours-in-santiago/IMG_20181123_120645.jpg "Crazy head statue in Plaza de Armas")](/assets/blog/12-hours-in-santiago/IMG_20181123_120645.jpg)

## Killing Time

Once we got closer to the bus station, Terminal de Buses Sur - Santiago, we decided to stop in a shopping mall/movie theater that we had walked by earlier that morning. We went to the food court of Mallplaza Alameda. It took time to find the food in the mall because it was 5 stories and gigantic. After weighing our many food options, several of which were US chains, we decided to try a place called Pollo Box.

Ordering food here was very interesting for one particular reason - half of the words were in English. This actually happened at Starbucks as well. In both cases we just got stares after ordering the items like “pollo box” even though in Spanish it should be “pollo caja” or something of that nature. Not sure why you would list an item that way if your employees are not going to understand what the order is, but after some pointing and repetition we finally got some food.

As we still had a few hours to kill we decided to watch the movie Bohemian Rhapsody. I had to order the snacks and drinks with the ticket, and we got a nice Bohemian Rhapsody tumbler thanks to a promotion that was currently in effect.

[![At the movies watching Bohemian Rhapsody](/assets/blog/12-hours-in-santiago/Snapchat-1157966508.jpg "At the movies watching Bohemian Rhapsody")](/assets/blog/12-hours-in-santiago/Snapchat-1157966508.jpg)

After the movie we had only a little more time to kill, so we decided to take advantage of the Black Friday sales. Since I had just left my headphones on the last bus and Lauren’s most recent replacement pair sounded terrible, we stopped in a cell phone store and bought some very nice earbuds for ourselves.

After preparing ourselves with some more Starbucks we headed back to the bus station. Stay tuned for our time in Puerto Montt and our crazy adventure and mishaps trying to bus our way out of Chile.

Love,

Gerrod (and Lauren)
]]></content:encoded>
            <author>bestseenonfoot@gmail.com (Gerrod Schirtzinger)</author>
        </item>
        <item>
            <title><![CDATA[Puerto Montt and the Los Lagos region of Chile Part 1: Arriving in Puerto Montt and Petrohué!]]></title>
            <link>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-1-arriving-in-puerto-montt-and-petrohue</link>
            <guid>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-1-arriving-in-puerto-montt-and-petrohue</guid>
            <pubDate>Sun, 13 Jan 2019 17:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
            <description><![CDATA[Hey everyone! Lauren here to tell you about our time in Puerto Montt and the Los Lagos region of Chile. Los Lagos...]]></description>
            <content:encoded><![CDATA[
Hey everyone! Lauren here to tell you about our time in Puerto Montt and the Los Lagos region of Chile. Los Lagos, or The Lakes, region is considered the very northern portion of Patagonia.

We originally were not intending to come to Puerto Montt, but at the advice of someone that was on our Galapagos cruise, and after looking at beautiful pictures of the area online, I thought it would be a very interesting contrast to Southern Patagonia, which we visited in Argentina. (blog posts to come!)

## Arriving in Puerto Montt

Our bus arrived in Puerto Montt around 10 am, and Gerrod and I were feeling exhausted and hungry! We opted to take buses all the way from San Pedro de Atacama to Puerto Montt due to the expensive flight prices, and sleeping on a bus is much less satisfying than we both had hoped.

We ate a quick snack, and began our walk to our hostel, Hospedaje Javiera. Although Gerrod and I have rolling bags, they convert into backpacks which makes it easier to traverse the landscape on longer walks. The bags look ridiculous as backpacks, and it is still physically challenging… especially uphill.

## Walking Around Town

Since we were so tired we decided to use much of the day to chill. After relaxing for much of the day we decided to explore town for a bit. We walked to the ocean front to go to a viewpoint that was marked on Maps.ME known as Sentados Frente Al Mar, which turned out to be this ridiculous looking giant sculpture near the ocean.

[![Odd statue at Puerto Montt known as Sentados Frente Al Mar](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-1-arriving-in-puerto-montt-and-petrohue/IMG_20181124_202855.jpg "Odd statue at Puerto Montt known as Sentados Frente Al Mar")](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-1-arriving-in-puerto-montt-and-petrohue/IMG_20181124_202855.jpg)

[![View of the coast from Puerto Montt](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-1-arriving-in-puerto-montt-and-petrohue/IMG_20181124_202721-EFFECTS.jpg "View of the coast from Puerto Montt")](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-1-arriving-in-puerto-montt-and-petrohue/IMG_20181124_202721-EFFECTS.jpg)

After taking some photos we walked to Plaza de Armas, the main plaza in Puerto Montt. There was a stage set up where there was some live music, and what looked like floats from a parade that must have happened earlier. The music seemed to be metal and rock’n’roll. There were tons of people walking around, and lots of what Gerrod deemed “punk rock kids”.

We were getting hungry, so we went to a restaurant located on the square called Rincón de Adela. As always, I was struggling with what to order so I asked our waitress if she had any recommendations. She asked us how hungry we were, and suggested a meal for two with a variety of meats. It sounded good so we decided to go for it.

She brought out our glasses of wine (wine is cheap in Chile!) and soon brought us this HUGE platter full of at least 5 different types of meats AND french fries. Every single thing on the platter was delicious. There was so much food, and we ate as much as we could but ultimately gave up trying to finish the platter and asked for the rest of our food “para llevar” (to go).

## Renting a Car

The next morning we intended to rent a car so we could drive to a park that was about an hour outside of the city. I say intended because it was Sunday, and much like in Calama, almost everything was closed!

We decided to take a stab at messaging some of the rental car companies, and got a response on WhatsApp from Blue Rental Car! We arranged our rental car all through a WhatsApp phone call, and our rental was set up for delivery at 15:30.

## Failed attempt at Monumento Natural Lahuen Ñadi

Since it was a little late to try to go to the park I originally wanted to see, I found a park that was even closer to town called [Monumento Natural Lahuen Ñadi](http://www.conaf.cl/parques/monumento-natural-lahuen-nadi/). The drive only took us about 15-20 minutes, and Gerrod drove the manual transmission way better than I was expecting!

We followed directions on Maps.ME, and ended up at a gravel drive with a closed gate. We were very confused and pulled off to the side of the gravel drive. I knew that the park was at the entrance of a condominium neighborhood, but we did not see a button or anything to get the gate to open. After awhile, some other cars drove up and we saw them get out their phones and make a call to open the gate.

There was a sign on the gate with a phone number, but it only had some of the required digits. We had to google Chile’s country code and looked up how to make a phone call. We tried three different phone numbers, all either being invalid numbers or having no answer.

After spending about 30 minutes trying to get the gate to open so we could go to the park, we gave up and headed back to our hostel very disappointed.

## Visit to Vicente Pérez Rosales National Park

### Drive to the Park

The next day was much more successful! After breakfast we hopped in our rental car and began our journey to Vicente Pérez Rosales National Park, located about 75 minutes away from Puerto Montt. We followed directions via Maps.ME, which took us on a toll road which cost us $600 Chilean Pesos (CLP) to exit at Puerto Varas.

Puerto Varas is a touristy town located north of Puerto Montt, and is a more popular town to stay in to visit the lake region, because it is considered to have a better view and more interesting building architecture. It is located along Lake Llanquihue and has a great view of Volcán Osorno, but we found that Puerto Montt was more central to the surrounding national parks, so we opted to stay there instead.

After driving through Puerto Varas, we ended up on a very scenic route 225 which followed Lake Llanquihue. There were several viewpoints along the lake, which had a gorgeous view of both the lake and the very tall Volcan Osorno.

### Saltos de Petrohué (Waterfalls of Petrohué)

[![Map of Saltos de Petrohué](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-1-arriving-in-puerto-montt-and-petrohue/IMG_6493.JPG "Map of Saltos de Petrohué")](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-1-arriving-in-puerto-montt-and-petrohue/IMG_6493.JPG)

When we finally arrived at the Saltos de Petrohué, there was a clearly marked parking area that cost 1000 CLP ($1.50 USD). Near to the parking area there was a large building with a cafe, souvenirs, and even a tour agency. We walked across a bridge to a park building, where we paid an entry fee of 4000 CLP per person (for foreigners).

[![Saltos de Petrohué with Volcán Osorno behind](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-1-arriving-in-puerto-montt-and-petrohue/IMG_6488.JPG "Saltos de Petrohué with Volcán Osorno behind")](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-1-arriving-in-puerto-montt-and-petrohue/IMG_6488.JPG)

[![Waterfalls at Saltos de Petrohué](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-1-arriving-in-puerto-montt-and-petrohue/IMG_6503.JPG "Waterfalls at Saltos de Petrohué")](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-1-arriving-in-puerto-montt-and-petrohue/IMG_6503.JPG)

[![Lauren and Gerrod at Saltos de Petrohué](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-1-arriving-in-puerto-montt-and-petrohue/IMG_6504.JPG "Lauren and Gerrod at Saltos de Petrohué")](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-1-arriving-in-puerto-montt-and-petrohue/IMG_6504.JPG)

[![Bridges at Saltos de Petrohué](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-1-arriving-in-puerto-montt-and-petrohue/IMG_6524.JPG "Bridges at Saltos de Petrohué")](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-1-arriving-in-puerto-montt-and-petrohue/IMG_6524.JPG)

[![Gerrod contemplating at Saltos de Petrohué](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-1-arriving-in-puerto-montt-and-petrohue/IMG_6529.JPG "Gerrod contemplating at Saltos de Petrohué")](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-1-arriving-in-puerto-montt-and-petrohue/IMG_6529.JPG)

[![Lauren contemplating at Saltos de Petrohué](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-1-arriving-in-puerto-montt-and-petrohue/IMG_20181126_120800.jpg "Lauren contemplating at Saltos de Petrohué")](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-1-arriving-in-puerto-montt-and-petrohue/IMG_20181126_120800.jpg)

There were three walking trails or senderos around the falls. To hike all three trails took about an hour and a half and they were all very easy trails. The Sendero Saltos de Petrohué was very short and easy and had amazing views of the Osorno Volcano!

[![Calm waterfall at Saltos de Petrohué](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-1-arriving-in-puerto-montt-and-petrohue/IMG_6533.JPG "Calm waterfall at Saltos de Petrohué")](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-1-arriving-in-puerto-montt-and-petrohue/IMG_6533.JPG)

[![Calm path at Saltos de Petrohué](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-1-arriving-in-puerto-montt-and-petrohue/IMG_6558.JPG "Calm path at Saltos de Petrohué")](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-1-arriving-in-puerto-montt-and-petrohue/IMG_6558.JPG)

### Hiking at Volcán Osorno

After exploring all of the trails around the Saltos de Petrohué, we headed to a hiking path closer to Volcán Osorno called Paso de Desolación. It was incredibly hard to find good hiking trail maps in Petrohué national park, but when I was searching Maps.ME and Google Maps for walking paths I saw one called Paso de Desolación that was very close to the volcano. We made our way to the town Petrohué to find that start of the trail, and parked our rental car. There were very good views of Lago Todos los Santos near the parking area.

[![View of Lago Todos los Santos](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-1-arriving-in-puerto-montt-and-petrohue/PANO_20181126_135840.vr.jpg "View of Lago Todos los Santos")](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-1-arriving-in-puerto-montt-and-petrohue/PANO_20181126_135840.vr.jpg)

We made our way to where Maps.ME said the trail started, and there was a very descriptive sign with a map of the trail, elevations, and even approximate walking times! Yay!

[![Map of Paso de Desolación](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-1-arriving-in-puerto-montt-and-petrohue/IMG_20181126_140237.jpg "Map of Paso de Desolación")](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-1-arriving-in-puerto-montt-and-petrohue/IMG_20181126_140237.jpg)

[![Signage for Paso de Desolación](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-1-arriving-in-puerto-montt-and-petrohue/IMG_20181126_140717.jpg "Signage for Paso de Desolación")](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-1-arriving-in-puerto-montt-and-petrohue/IMG_20181126_140717.jpg)

We decided to walk only a portion of the trail as it was getting to be later in the afternoon, so we began our hike. The trail was very sandy, but winded through beautiful yellow flowers and had a constant view of Volcán Osorno. The sky was perfectly clear, which made views of the volcano even more stunning.

[![Gerrod hiking near Volcán Osorno](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-1-arriving-in-puerto-montt-and-petrohue/IMG_6584.JPG "Gerrod hiking near Volcán Osorno")](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-1-arriving-in-puerto-montt-and-petrohue/IMG_6584.JPG)

[![Signage for Paso de Desolación showing the volcanic flurry](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-1-arriving-in-puerto-montt-and-petrohue/IMG_20181126_145750.jpg "Signage for Paso de Desolación showing the volcanic flurry")](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-1-arriving-in-puerto-montt-and-petrohue/IMG_20181126_145750.jpg)

[![Volcanic flurry at Volcán Osorno](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-1-arriving-in-puerto-montt-and-petrohue/IMG_6635.JPG "Volcanic flurry at Volcán Osorno")](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-1-arriving-in-puerto-montt-and-petrohue/IMG_6635.JPG)

Volcán Osorno erupted in 1869, and there were still indications of the eruption! We had to walk across volcanic flurries (Aluvión Volcánico) which were large stream-like channels filled with loose volcanic soil, and it had seemed that there were several areas that the vegetation had not yet recovered. Charles Darwin allegedly saw the volcano erupting, which I think is pretty neat.

[![Lauren posing in front of Lago Todos los Santos](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-1-arriving-in-puerto-montt-and-petrohue/IMG_6615.JPG "Lauren posing in front of Lago Todos los Santos")](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-1-arriving-in-puerto-montt-and-petrohue/IMG_6615.JPG)

[![Gerrod touching the top of Volcán Osorno](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-1-arriving-in-puerto-montt-and-petrohue/IMG_6623.JPG "Gerrod touching the top of Volcán Osorno")](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-1-arriving-in-puerto-montt-and-petrohue/IMG_6623.JPG)

[![Lauren touching the top of Volcán Osorno](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-1-arriving-in-puerto-montt-and-petrohue/IMG_6628.JPG "Lauren touching the top of Volcán Osorno")](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-1-arriving-in-puerto-montt-and-petrohue/IMG_6628.JPG)

After walking for about 4.5km, we began a fairly steep uphill before arriving at our intended turn around point, Mirador La Picada. After taking pictures of the incredible views, we made our way back to our rental car.

[![Gerrod reminiscing on his hike to Volcán Osorno](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-1-arriving-in-puerto-montt-and-petrohue/IMG-20181126-WA0000.jpg "Gerrod reminiscing on his hike to Volcán Osorno")](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-1-arriving-in-puerto-montt-and-petrohue/IMG-20181126-WA0000.jpg)

## Drive back to Puerto Montt

On our drive back to Puerto Montt, we stopped at the several of the viewpoints along route 225 near Lake Llanquihue with greats view of the volcano to snap some pictures. The traffic was luckily not too bad, and we soon were back on the toll road on our way to our hostel. This time the toll road cost us 700 CLP to go to Puerto Montt.

[![Gerrod and Lauren selfie at Lake Llanquihue](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-1-arriving-in-puerto-montt-and-petrohue/IMG_20181126_181614.jpg "Gerrod and Lauren selfie at Lake Llanquihue")](/assets/blog/puerto-montt-and-the-los-lagos-region-of-chile-part-1-arriving-in-puerto-montt-and-petrohue/IMG_20181126_181614.jpg)

After eating dinner and showering, we were ready for the next day’s adventures in the lake region. Part two of Puerto Montt to come!

Love,

Lauren (and Gerrod)
]]></content:encoded>
            <author>bestseenonfoot@gmail.com (Lauren Schirtzinger)</author>
        </item>
        <item>
            <title><![CDATA[Long but Reliable: Buses of Chile!]]></title>
            <link>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/long-but-reliable-buses-of-chile</link>
            <guid>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/long-but-reliable-buses-of-chile</guid>
            <pubDate>Fri, 11 Jan 2019 17:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
            <description><![CDATA[Hello Everyone! Gerrod here to tell you about some of the long bus rides that we opted to take in Chile...]]></description>
            <content:encoded><![CDATA[
Hello Everyone! Gerrod here to tell you about some of the long bus rides that we opted to take in Chile. The last time I wrote about our transportation mishaps, I was essentially writing a long letter of complaints. This time there were not as many mishaps, but rather some hard-learned lessons.

## Bus One: San Pedro to Santiago

The first bus was scheduled to leave at 9:15am, so we planned to get there around 8:45 am just to be safe. After the walk into our AirBnB after our arrival to San Pedro de Atacama, we realized rolling our bags all that way may not be the best idea this time. We decided that for the first time ever we would convert our Osprey bags into their secondary form: backpack. It took a little bit of time to get them set up, but we were able to move much faster.

We arrived at the bus station at 8:45 as intended and checked our bags in. We boarded the bus and prepared for our long 22 hour bus ride to Santiago. We did some prep-planning for this trip by downloading Netflix shows and bringing some video games. Lauren bided her time watching Netflix, while I switched be playing Switch and listening to Podcasts. The bus had charging ports for USB cords, so we were set to entertain ourselves for the entire ride.

[![Lauren chilling on the bus](/assets/blog/long-but-reliable-buses-of-chile/IMG_20181122_090026.jpg "Lauren chilling on the bus")](/assets/blog/long-but-reliable-buses-of-chile/IMG_20181122_090026.jpg)

### Lesson One: Bring Snacks

The bus ride drove us through so much of the northern desert of Chile. The route took us towards the coast where we would finally see the Pacific Ocean in Chile. The air had a lot more moisture! Around 2pm we had to get off the bus for a fuel stop at on of the bus stations.

[![View of the desert with some distant windmills and mountains](/assets/blog/long-but-reliable-buses-of-chile/20181118_135920.jpg "View of the desert with some distant windmills and mountains")](/assets/blog/long-but-reliable-buses-of-chile/20181118_135920.jpg)

So far we had not been given any snacks or food. It was Thanksgiving back in the States, so on a day where we were used to gorging ourselves with food, we found ourselves sitting on a bus starving.

There were a few points where the bus driver let locals onto the bus to sell food and drinks, but we assured ourselves we would get food at some point. If you have been keeping up with the blog so far, then you might be aware that our short 7 hour bus ride in Peru provided us with a small meal almost immediately. We came to realize that same courtesy would not be found here. That being said we decided to grab some fries, drinks, and giant avocado covered hot dogs to satiate ourselves until the next stop.

### Lesson Two: Sleeping is Hard on the Bus

The bus continued to play movies as we ate snacks that we had left over from the desert for dinner. We never stopped for food again. We drove through the night and tried to sleep, but the A/C would turn on and off making it either too cold or too hot to get truly restful sleep.
We finally arrived in Santiago just before 7am. As we roused ourselves to get our bags and head into the bus station, I forgot both my headphones and portable charger on the bus thanks to my weary mind. We headed into the station to figure out what to do until our next bus.

Stay tuned for a future post about what we did with our 12 hour “layover” in Santiago!

## Bus Two: Santiago to Puerto Montt

After a long day in Santiago we finally headed back to the bus terminal to take the night bus to Puerto Montt. This time we prepared with adequate snacks for the 12 hour bus ride that would take us through the night.

The bus ride was very uneventful as most of it was in the dark, so most of the time we attempted to sleep. Whenever sleep would not take us, then we would kill time with other means of entertainment be it music, games, podcasts, or some downloaded Netflix. And after what seemed like no time at all compared to the first bus, we found ourselves in Puerto Montt.

Love,

Gerrod (and Lauren)
]]></content:encoded>
            <author>bestseenonfoot@gmail.com (Gerrod Schirtzinger)</author>
        </item>
        <item>
            <title><![CDATA[San Pedro de Atacama Part 2: Valle de la Luna and Stargazing]]></title>
            <link>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/san-pedro-de-atacama-part-2-valle-de-la-luna-and-stargazing</link>
            <guid>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/san-pedro-de-atacama-part-2-valle-de-la-luna-and-stargazing</guid>
            <pubDate>Tue, 11 Dec 2018 17:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
            <description><![CDATA[Hey everyone! Lauren here with part 2 our time in the deserts near of Calama and San Pedro de Atacama, Chile...]]></description>
            <content:encoded><![CDATA[
Hey everyone! Lauren here with part 2 our time in the deserts near of Calama and San Pedro de Atacama, Chile.

## Biking through Valle de la Luna

The next day, we got up fairly early and went to Barros Cafe for breakfast. After breakfast, we went to a local bike shop, where we rented mountain bikes. The bikes cost 6000 CLP (~$9.00 USD) per bike for a 6 hour rental, and we were provided with helmets, high visibility vests, a bike lock, a tire pump, and a tire tube (in case we get a flat).

The woman working also gave us a map and directions to get to Valle de la Luna, and told us to make sure we took tons of water! We had filled up all of our water bottles and my Camelbak in the morning and had about 4 liters of water, and soon Gerrod and I were on our way!

The entrance to the valley was a little less than 6 km from the bike shop and the ride wasn't too difficult. At the entrance to the valley is an information center where we paid an entrance fee of 2,500 CLP (~$4.00 USD) per person. We noticed that there is a cheaper entrance fee if you arrived before 12:00 pm versus if you came in the afternoon, and luckily we made the decision to start our tour in the morning!

[![Lauren riding the rental bike through the desert](/assets/blog/san-pedro-de-atacama-part-2-valle-de-la-luna-and-stargazing/IMG_20181120_103256.jpg "Lauren riding the rental bike through the desert")](/assets/blog/san-pedro-de-atacama-part-2-valle-de-la-luna-and-stargazing/IMG_20181120_103256.jpg)

After we paid the entrance fee, we were provided with an English map of the valley and the woman pointed out all of the destinations along the route and told us approximate distances between each.The map we were provided with was not to scale, but luckily Maps.ME seemed to have all of the viewpoints and destinations that were on the information center map (seriously get [Maps.ME](https://maps.me/) when traveling abroad! It is so helpful!).

### Salt Cavern/Cueva de Sal

With our map in hand, we headed down the road to our first stop, the Salt Cavern! The road was compact gravel, and was very bumpy in areas, but the scenery was unlike anything I had seen before so the ride was fairly enjoyable.

When we arrived at the salt cavern, we locked up our bikes up and followed the sign to the caves. The start of the cave was nestled in a canyon, and Gerrod thought it looked like Jawa territory from Tatooine in Star Wars.

[![Gerrod pretending to be a Jawa and peaking his head around the corner](/assets/blog/san-pedro-de-atacama-part-2-valle-de-la-luna-and-stargazing/IMG_6397.jpg "Gerrod pretending to be a Jawa and peaking his head around the corner")](/assets/blog/san-pedro-de-atacama-part-2-valle-de-la-luna-and-stargazing/IMG_6397.jpg)

Luckily Gerrod brings his headlamp everywhere we go, because the caves were... well caves and were very dark. Salt could be seen all throughout the rock, and there were some areas that were a bit of a squeeze!

[![We see the light at the end of the... cave](/assets/blog/san-pedro-de-atacama-part-2-valle-de-la-luna-and-stargazing/20181120_112250.jpg "We see the light at the end of the... cave")](/assets/blog/san-pedro-de-atacama-part-2-valle-de-la-luna-and-stargazing/20181120_112250.jpg)

The route comes out near the top of the caves, and we walked a bit through the canyons before returning to our bikes to continue our ride.

### Duna Mayor

Next we rode to our next destination, Duna Mayor. There was a parking area, a place to lock up bikes, and even a bathroom! We started on the path and hiked uphill to a really nice viewpoint overlooking Valle de la Luna.

[![Mirador at the end of the Duna Mayor loop](/assets/blog/san-pedro-de-atacama-part-2-valle-de-la-luna-and-stargazing/IMG_6434.jpg "Mirador at the end of the Duna Mayor loop")](/assets/blog/san-pedro-de-atacama-part-2-valle-de-la-luna-and-stargazing/IMG_6434.jpg)

The hike is a loop, and after walking to the farthest viewpoint, we walked along the ridge to another viewpoint which gave us a great view of the entire sand dune. The hike was surprisingly difficult since we were walking in sand and it was so sunny and dry out.

[![Gerrod walking along the trail ridge](/assets/blog/san-pedro-de-atacama-part-2-valle-de-la-luna-and-stargazing/IMG_6440.jpg "Gerrod walking along the trail ridge")](/assets/blog/san-pedro-de-atacama-part-2-valle-de-la-luna-and-stargazing/IMG_6440.jpg)

Since there were bathrooms, trash cans, and a bench with a canopy (yay shade), we decided to have some snacks before continuing on our ride.

[![Duna Mayor](/assets/blog/san-pedro-de-atacama-part-2-valle-de-la-luna-and-stargazing/IMG_6446.jpg "Duna Mayor")](/assets/blog/san-pedro-de-atacama-part-2-valle-de-la-luna-and-stargazing/IMG_6446.jpg)

### Mirador Achaches

We rode past the a viewpoint called the amphitheatre, and then headed to the next hiking trails at. The hike was through sand again, but the view at the top was wonderful, with great view of the ampitheatre. As a bonus, there were no other people there so we had the whole view to ourselves!

[![Mirador Achaches with a view of the ampitheatre](/assets/blog/san-pedro-de-atacama-part-2-valle-de-la-luna-and-stargazing/IMG_6451.jpg "Mirador Achaches with a view of the ampitheatre")](/assets/blog/san-pedro-de-atacama-part-2-valle-de-la-luna-and-stargazing/IMG_6451.jpg)

### Salt Mine Victoria

Afterwards we headed to the next marked destination, Salt Mine Victoria. This stop was clearly not as popular, but along the trail there were interesting salt veins all over the rocks. I decided to confirm that it was salt by licking the wall, which Gerrod found gross for some reason. To no surprise it was very salty.

[![Yep. That's salty.](/assets/blog/san-pedro-de-atacama-part-2-valle-de-la-luna-and-stargazing/IMG_20181120_142709.jpg "Yep. That's salty.")](/assets/blog/san-pedro-de-atacama-part-2-valle-de-la-luna-and-stargazing/IMG_20181120_142709.jpg)

### Tres Marias

The last stop was known as the Tres Marias or Three Maries, and the ride was all downhill! The Three Maries were geologic formations that are composed of gravel, clay, salt, and quartz. To me they look like three random protruding rock things. Maybe if I was a geologist, like some of my friends, they would have been a bit more interesting.

[![Las Tres Marias](/assets/blog/san-pedro-de-atacama-part-2-valle-de-la-luna-and-stargazing/IMG_6454.jpg "Las Tres Marias")](/assets/blog/san-pedro-de-atacama-part-2-valle-de-la-luna-and-stargazing/IMG_6454.jpg)

### The not very fun ride back to town

After seeing the Tres Marias, we turned around and started to make the long ride back to town. The ride back was significantly less enjoyable: all of our water was very warm, much of the ride seemed to be uphill, and we had to stop and walk our bikes a few times; and despite applying SPF 50 sun block, we were starting to get burnt!

There were also tons more bikers, cars, and many tour buses filling up the roads that were not there in the morning. We did not see any tour buses in the morning, so most of the tours must go in the afternoon. This may be why the park entrance fee is higher in the afternoon!

On top of the high heat, we started to run low on water, which was surprising since we brought so much! When we got out of the park and back to the main road, Gerrod noted that it felt like he was riding in sand so we stopped and noticed his back tire was flat!

Luckily we had the hand pump, but it took quite a bit of effort to get the tire full enough to finish the ride back to town. His chain also came off of the gear more than once, and we had to stop to fix it. Due to all of this, we arrived back at the bike shop 45 minutes after we were supposed to return the bikes. Luckily they did not charge us any more money!

## Stargazing

One of the things that I was really looking forward to in San Pedro de Atacama was doing a star-gazing tour. However, when we arrived and spoke to our host about stargazing tours and did more research on the internet we came to the realization that we visited at a terrible time for stargazing.

Why was it a terrible time? Because we were only two days away from a full moon, and during a full moon it is too bright to see the more interesting features in the night sky, like the center of the Milky Way. Although I was disappointed, Gerrod and I decided to make the best of it and found a viewpoint on Maps.ME that we could walk to just out-of-town

[![When the moon hits your eye like a big pizza pie, it's bad for stargazing](/assets/blog/san-pedro-de-atacama-part-2-valle-de-la-luna-and-stargazing/IMG_6474.jpg "When the moon hits your eye like a big pizza pie, it's bad for stargazing")](/assets/blog/san-pedro-de-atacama-part-2-valle-de-la-luna-and-stargazing/IMG_6474.jpg)

The moon was so bright that we didn't even need to use our headlamps/flashlight to walk! When we finally got to our viewpoint, I was pleasantly surprised with the night view of San Pedro. After taking some photos, we headed home for a good night's sleep!

[![San Pedro de Atacama at night](/assets/blog/san-pedro-de-atacama-part-2-valle-de-la-luna-and-stargazing/20181120_234346.jpg "San Pedro de Atacama at night")](/assets/blog/san-pedro-de-atacama-part-2-valle-de-la-luna-and-stargazing/20181120_234346.jpg)

## Plans to go to Laguna Cejar

We originally planned on going to Laguna Cejar, which is a local lagoon with a very high saline content. I had heard/read that it made you feel like you were weightless, which sounded really fun to swim in.

We went around town and looked at both renting a car or taking a tour to get there. The cheapest rental car was about $100 USD for 24 hours. The tours were not that much cheaper, especially when we found out none of them included the entry fee to the lagoon, which I believe was like ~15000 CLP ($22 USD!). We went to several tour agencies, and they all would set us back $80 USD. We decided that it was not worth that much money just to go float around in the water.

## JK lets drink instead

After eating lunch at a local cafe and contemplating what to do next, we went to the local liquor store and bought some beverages of the alcoholic variety. The rest of the afternoon consisted of chilling and drinking until dinner time. We even beat Kirby Star Allies, a Nintendo Switch game that we started several months before leaving on our big adventure. Everyone travels with their Nintendo Switch, right?

[![Drinks and Nintendo Switch](/assets/blog/san-pedro-de-atacama-part-2-valle-de-la-luna-and-stargazing/20181121_165915-e1544497679546.jpg "Drinks and Nintendo Switch")](/assets/blog/san-pedro-de-atacama-part-2-valle-de-la-luna-and-stargazing/20181121_165915-e1544497679546.jpg)

For dinner, we went to a restaurant our AirBnB host recommended called Lola. Gerrod got the biggest empanada ever, and I had a delicious fish dish. We heard they had karaoke, so we had a few more drinks and waited to the fun to begin. After an hour of waiting, we decided to go to a different bar.

We ended up at a place called Mal de Puna, which had live music. After enjoying the music for a bit, Gerrod and I went home to sleep and prepare for the long bus ride the next day!

Until next time!

Love,

Lauren (and Gerrod)
]]></content:encoded>
            <author>bestseenonfoot@gmail.com (Lauren Schirtzinger)</author>
        </item>
        <item>
            <title><![CDATA[San Pedro de Atacama Part 1: Piedras Rojas, Salar de Atacama, and the Lagunas]]></title>
            <link>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/san-pedro-de-atacama-part-1-piedras-rojas-salar-de-atacama-and-the-lagunas</link>
            <guid>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/san-pedro-de-atacama-part-1-piedras-rojas-salar-de-atacama-and-the-lagunas</guid>
            <pubDate>Mon, 10 Dec 2018 17:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
            <description><![CDATA[Hey everyone! Lauren here to tell you about part 1 of our journey in Calama and San Pedro de Atacama, Chile! We spent about 3.5 days here...]]></description>
            <content:encoded><![CDATA[
Hey everyone! Lauren here to tell you about part 1 of our journey in Calama and San Pedro de Atacama, Chile! We spent about 3.5 days here, which seemed to be enough time to cover most of the popular activities.

## Arrival in Chile

The best way to get to San Pedro de Atacama is to fly into Calama and take a bus ride to San Pedro de Atacama. We flew from Paraguay to Chile with Latam, and had a fairly long layover in Santiago before transferring to Calama.

When we arrived in Santiago, and after we went through customs we were directed out of the airport. We had a fairly lengthy layover in Santiago, and we were planning on spending it in the VIP lounge!

We tried to drop our bags off at the desk, and all of the airline employees kept telling us it was too early to check in! They didn’t speak too much English, and we finally explained to them that we were trying to go to the lounge and they let us drop our luggage off.

The VIP lounge had tons of food to eat, and we were each allowed 3 free drinks. I somehow managed to have 4 or 5 glasses of wine before our flight because both me and the bartender lost count during our 6 to 7 hour layover. The flight went very smoothly, and we were soon landing in Calama!

## Calama

Upon arriving in Calama, we went about our usual routine when arriving in a new country, which consists of getting money out at the ATM and finding transportation to our accommodation, [Terra Hostal](https://www.booking.com/hotel/cl/terra-hostal-calama5.es.html).

The host gave us advice on how to get a bus to our final destination, San Pedro de Atacama, and gave us a recommendation on where to eat dinner. We ate some fairly large sandwiches from the recommended restaurant down the street and went to bed.

## Bus from Calama to San Pedro de Atacama

Our hostal host said the bus to San Pedro left at either 8am or 1:30pm. Gerrod and I opted to leave at 1:30pm so we could sleep in. After a late start to the morning, we headed downtown to buy our bus tickets, and eat a late breakfast/early lunch.

Curiously, many of the businesses were closed, including the restaurants. I quickly Googled “Calama on Sundays” to see if there was any event going on, and it turns out that much of Chile just shuts down on Sundays so that families have time to hang out together.

Luckily the bus station was still open, and we purchased our 1:30pm bus tickets. We found an open restaurant called Delfin Verde and ate even bigger sandwiches. After lunch, we grabbed our luggage from our hostel and walked back to the bus station to catch our bus.

[![Gigantic sandwich. Gerrod for scale.](/assets/blog/san-pedro-de-atacama-part-1-piedras-rojas-salar-de-atacama-and-the-lagunas/20181118_111637.jpg "Gigantic sandwich. Gerrod for scale.")](/assets/blog/san-pedro-de-atacama-part-1-piedras-rojas-salar-de-atacama-and-the-lagunas/20181118_111637.jpg)

## Arrival in San Pedro de Atacama

I napped for almost the entire bus ride despite getting a very good night sleep, and we soon arrived in San Pedro de Atacama. We arrived in town around 3 pm and then we walked through the main square on our way to the [AirBnB](https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/4464316)(Listing: Mi casa es tu casa. Double Matrimonial Room).

The AirBnB was a little over a kilometer from the bus station, and our host greeted us upon arrival. She gave us a map of San Pedro de Atacama with things marked around the city, and introduced us to her dog, Apu.

[![Selfie with Apu!](/assets/blog/san-pedro-de-atacama-part-1-piedras-rojas-salar-de-atacama-and-the-lagunas/20181120_200857.jpg "Selfie with Apu!")](/assets/blog/san-pedro-de-atacama-part-1-piedras-rojas-salar-de-atacama-and-the-lagunas/20181120_200857.jpg)

## Booking a tour and getting settled

After getting settled in our room, we started to plan how we would spend our time in San Pedro de Atacama. Some other guests staying in our AirBnB suggested going to a place called Piedras Rojas and said that Geysers el Tatio was not worth the tour price and that there are much better geysers to see in the world.

We decided to go into town to see what the travel companies had to offer. All of the travel companies seemed to be trying to get us to go on a package set of places, including Valle de la Luna, Laguna Cejar, Geysers el Tatio, and Atacama Salt Flat Day Trip including Los Flamencos National Reserve and seemed to be similarly priced.

We ended up at a travel agency called Sun Travel, and since I didn’t particularly care to go to Geysers el Tatio, especially following the advice of our fellow AirBnB housemates, and I really wanted to explore Valle de la Luna on bicycle without a tour, we decided to book only the trip to Piedras Rojas. The tour cost 35,000 Chilean Pesos (CLP) per person (~$104 USD) and included breakfast, lunch, transportation, and according to our travel agent, an English-speaking guide.

## Exploring San Pedro de Atacama

[![Walking through San Pedro de Atacama](/assets/blog/san-pedro-de-atacama-part-1-piedras-rojas-salar-de-atacama-and-the-lagunas/20181121_122854.jpg "Walking through San Pedro de Atacama")](/assets/blog/san-pedro-de-atacama-part-1-piedras-rojas-salar-de-atacama-and-the-lagunas/20181121_122854.jpg)

After we booked our tour, we explored around town and went to some shops. Gerrod and I have a tradition going on where the only souvenir we ever really buy in a country is a fridge magnet. We went to about 10 shops before we found a magnet to our liking!

We then walked to the main square and stumbled upon an old Catholic church downtown. It was open and free, so we went in to investigate. There were signs explaining the history of the church. It was constructed in the 1600s, and has had quite the history, including many renovations and being burnt down… more than once.

[![Catholic church in downtown San Pedro](/assets/blog/san-pedro-de-atacama-part-1-piedras-rojas-salar-de-atacama-and-the-lagunas/IMG_20181118_182415-EFFECTS.jpg "Catholic church in downtown San Pedro")](/assets/blog/san-pedro-de-atacama-part-1-piedras-rojas-salar-de-atacama-and-the-lagunas/IMG_20181118_182415-EFFECTS.jpg)

## Piedras Rojas Tour

### Beginning of tour to Piedras Rojas

The next day we woke up for our tour and waited for our 7am-7:30am pickup. At 7:30am we were getting a little nervous, but Apu was waiting with us so doggie cuddles made the waiting better. The bus finally rolled up and our guide greeted us in Spanish, which didn’t seem all that strange at first.

There were only two seats on the bus, and they weren’t next to each other so Gerrod and I had to sit on opposite sides of the van. Our guide then asked me a question in very fast Spanish. I hesitated, so he asked me if I spoke Spanish. I replied that I spoke a little, but that English was better (since I was told our guide would speak English)

Our guide then told us that he only spoke Spanish and French, NO English, and asked us if we wanted to get off of the bus. Apparently our original guide was sick and he was filling in. Gerrod and I decided to stick it out, as our Spanish comprehension is way better than our speaking ability.

### Pueblo de Toconao and Breakfast

The first stop of our tour was Pueblo de Toconao. Our guide took us around the main square and showed us a tower thing and explained that the door was made of cactus. He then showed us the cactus plant that the door was made of, and said that the cactus was “very phallic” and laughed about it.

[![Looks like a normal giant cardon cactus (Echinopsis atacamensis) to me!](/assets/blog/san-pedro-de-atacama-part-1-piedras-rojas-salar-de-atacama-and-the-lagunas/IMG_6122-e1544492638721.jpg "Looks like a normal giant cardon cactus (Echinopsis atacamensis) to me!")](/assets/blog/san-pedro-de-atacama-part-1-piedras-rojas-salar-de-atacama-and-the-lagunas/IMG_6122-e1544492638721.jpg)

I am sure there was more information, but that is the portion I comprehended. We then went to a local restaurant for breakfast, where we were served scrambled eggs, bread, and coffee. For some reason, we were not provided with plates.

### Salar de Atacama

Next we went to Laguna Chaxa/Reserva Nacional Los Flamencos within Salar de Atacama, which cost an additional $3,000 CLP per person ($4.50 USD) entry fee. There were so many flamingos! Our guide said there are three species of flamingos in Chile, and that the Salar de Atacama is a very important habitat for them. He then said that lithium mining was impacting the habitat and affecting the flamingos!

[![*flap, flap, flap!*](/assets/blog/san-pedro-de-atacama-part-1-piedras-rojas-salar-de-atacama-and-the-lagunas/IMG_6159.jpg "*flap, flap, flap!*")](/assets/blog/san-pedro-de-atacama-part-1-piedras-rojas-salar-de-atacama-and-the-lagunas/IMG_6159.jpg)

The salt flat went on for what seemed like miles, and flamingos could be seen in the deeper pools all throughout the area!

[![(something about reflections and flamingos)](/assets/blog/san-pedro-de-atacama-part-1-piedras-rojas-salar-de-atacama-and-the-lagunas/IMG_6216.jpg "(something about reflections and flamingos)")](/assets/blog/san-pedro-de-atacama-part-1-piedras-rojas-salar-de-atacama-and-the-lagunas/IMG_6216.jpg)

I also saw a sign that said the flamingo reserve was a RAMSAR International Wetland of importance! RAMSAR wetlands are recognized as being of significant value not only for the country or the countries in which they are located, but for humanity as a whole. Since I work in natural resources focusing in wetland science back in the States, this was very exciting for me. Gerrod however said that the whole place “smelled like shitty salt water”.

[![Salar de Atacama](/assets/blog/san-pedro-de-atacama-part-1-piedras-rojas-salar-de-atacama-and-the-lagunas/IMG_6260.jpg "Salar de Atacama")](/assets/blog/san-pedro-de-atacama-part-1-piedras-rojas-salar-de-atacama-and-the-lagunas/IMG_6260.jpg)

### The Lagunas and Vicuña

After our stop at the Reserva Nacional Los Flamencos, there was a long bus ride to our next stop on the tour, Lagunas Miscanti and Miniques. The lagunas cost an additional 2,500 CLP per person (~$4.00 USD) entry fee. Lagunas Miscanti and Miniques were two different lagoons; there was very blue water in both of the lagoons from the snow on the nearby mountains, and due to the altitude it was fairly cold.

[![Laguna Miscanti](/assets/blog/san-pedro-de-atacama-part-1-piedras-rojas-salar-de-atacama-and-the-lagunas/IMG_6263.jpg "Laguna Miscanti")](/assets/blog/san-pedro-de-atacama-part-1-piedras-rojas-salar-de-atacama-and-the-lagunas/IMG_6263.jpg)

[![Laguna Miniques](/assets/blog/san-pedro-de-atacama-part-1-piedras-rojas-salar-de-atacama-and-the-lagunas/IMG_6313.jpg "Laguna Miniques")](/assets/blog/san-pedro-de-atacama-part-1-piedras-rojas-salar-de-atacama-and-the-lagunas/IMG_6313.jpg)

There were tons of vicuña running around the lagunas, which look kind of like llamas. Our guide was saying that they run like this during mating season, and both Gerrod and I are pretty sure he said that they bite each others balls off.

[![Vicuña taking a light jog](/assets/blog/san-pedro-de-atacama-part-1-piedras-rojas-salar-de-atacama-and-the-lagunas/IMG_6302.jpg "Vicuña taking a light jog")](/assets/blog/san-pedro-de-atacama-part-1-piedras-rojas-salar-de-atacama-and-the-lagunas/IMG_6302.jpg)

### Piedras Rojas

Following our stop at the lagunas, we took another long ride to Salar de Aguas Calientes and Piedras Rojas de Hierro. There were two separate lookouts to view the area, and there were so many colors that I tried to capture with my camera, but kind of failed. It was very windy at the second lookout, so Gerrod and I spent time taking some goofy wind pictures as demonstrated below.

[![Looking super cute at Piedras Rojas](/assets/blog/san-pedro-de-atacama-part-1-piedras-rojas-salar-de-atacama-and-the-lagunas/IMG_6329.jpg "Looking super cute at Piedras Rojas")](/assets/blog/san-pedro-de-atacama-part-1-piedras-rojas-salar-de-atacama-and-the-lagunas/IMG_6329.jpg)

[![Fat wind Gerrod](/assets/blog/san-pedro-de-atacama-part-1-piedras-rojas-salar-de-atacama-and-the-lagunas/IMG_6341.jpg "Fat wind Gerrod")](/assets/blog/san-pedro-de-atacama-part-1-piedras-rojas-salar-de-atacama-and-the-lagunas/IMG_6341.jpg)

We then continued down the road and made a brief stop at Laguna Tuyaito. The water was super blue!!!

[![Lauren doing a classic cross-legged sit next to Laguna Tuyaito](/assets/blog/san-pedro-de-atacama-part-1-piedras-rojas-salar-de-atacama-and-the-lagunas/IMG_6353.jpg "Lauren doing a classic cross-legged sit next to Laguna Tuyaito")](/assets/blog/san-pedro-de-atacama-part-1-piedras-rojas-salar-de-atacama-and-the-lagunas/IMG_6353.jpg)

### The drive back to San Pedro de Atacama

After taking our photos and enjoying the beautiful scenery, we hopped back on the van and began our journey back to San Pedro. On our way back to town, we stopped in a small town called Pueblo de Socaire for lunch. After lunch we took a brief walk around town where our guide discussed a small local church and showed us some terrace farming that was very similar to the farming we saw in Peru.

We then got back on the bus, and headed back to San Pedro, but not before stopping at Trópico de Capricornio where we took some pics of the sign and the road. Our guide explained what the Trópico de Capricornio was, but we understood literally nothing he was trying to say, so according to [wikipedia](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tropic_of_Capricorn) - “The Tropic of Capricorn (or the Southern Tropic) is the circle of latitude that contains the subsolar point on the December (or southern) solstice. It is thus the southernmost latitude where the Sun can be directly overhead.”

[![Gerrod doing a really weird squat next to Trópico de Capricornio](/assets/blog/san-pedro-de-atacama-part-1-piedras-rojas-salar-de-atacama-and-the-lagunas/IMG_6376.jpg "Gerrod doing a really weird squat next to Trópico de Capricornio")](/assets/blog/san-pedro-de-atacama-part-1-piedras-rojas-salar-de-atacama-and-the-lagunas/IMG_6376.jpg)

## Sun Travel: Not what we expected

Although the sites included in our tour were beautiful and our guide was very nice and tried his best to speak clearly, I am fairly disappointed with the tour agency. Not only was the agency late picking us up, but we were a little lost since they misinformed us about the English-speaking guide and whole tour was in Spanish. Our guide seemed to be talking about some in-depth topics using words that only fluent Spanish speakers would know.

Stay tuned for part 2 of our adventure!

Until next time!

Love,

Lauren (and Gerrod)
]]></content:encoded>
            <author>bestseenonfoot@gmail.com (Lauren Schirtzinger)</author>
        </item>
        <item>
            <title><![CDATA[Sippin' on Tereré with the Fam in Paraguay]]></title>
            <link>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/sippin-on-terere-with-the-fam-in-paraguay</link>
            <guid>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/sippin-on-terere-with-the-fam-in-paraguay</guid>
            <pubDate>Sun, 09 Dec 2018 17:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
            <description><![CDATA[Hey people! Gerrod here again to pick up where I left off from the last post we made. This time, we will be sharing our experience in Paraguay with our cousin Liz...]]></description>
            <content:encoded><![CDATA[
Hey people! Gerrod here again to pick up where I left off from the last post we made. This time, we will be sharing our experience in Paraguay with our cousin Liz!

Lauren's cousin Liz is currently a Peace Corps volunteer, and has been in Paraguay since March. She has been at her permanent site in Caacupé since June, and we were lucky to have her to share Paraguay's culture with us.

## Landing in Asunción

We arrived in Asunción at about 4 am. After getting off the plane, we went to get our visa, which cost us a whopping $160 per person!! The visa is good for 10 years though, in case we ever decide to go back.

[![The customs counter at 4 in the morning.](/assets/blog/sippin-on-terere-with-the-fam-in-paraguay/IMG_20181112_022854.jpg "The customs counter at 4 in the morning.")](/assets/blog/sippin-on-terere-with-the-fam-in-paraguay/IMG_20181112_022854.jpg)

After getting our visa, we headed to customs. We barely got through the questions that the guy behind the counter was asking us! He actually ended up using Google translate to ask us questions. We were shocked at how much trouble we had understanding his Spanish, but just attributed it to not being accustomed to the accent quite yet.

As we prepared to leave the airport following the directions that Liz had sent us, we soon saw her standing outside the security gate with a sign to greet us! It was so great to see her after so many months, and because we probably would have gotten ourselves lost, especially with how poorly we understood the customs employee!

We hopped in a cab to go to the main bus station, which Liz called "Terminal". At the bus station we caught a very old bus (or as the Paraguayans call them colectivos) to the town Liz is serving in, Caacupé.

## Paraguayan Language

During our journey to Caacupé, we mentioned to Liz how much trouble we had understanding the Spanish of the customs agent. Liz laughed and said that Paraguayan Spanish is different from many other countries due to the influence of the native language Guaraní.

Paraguay is a bilingual nation, with ~90% of Paraguayans speaking both Spanish and Guaraní. According to Liz, many of the smaller villages speak predominantly Guaraní, with Spanish being more common among residents of Asunción.

## Caacupé

### Shopping and Tereré

After a long bus ride, we walked a few blocks on the road before finally arriving at Liz's host family's home. We met a few of Liz's host family members, and put our things in her bedroom.

Liz's host mom made us some traditional Paraguayan cuisine for our arrival: a cornbread pancake thing called mbeju, which we drank with a sweet drink called cocido. Cocido is made with cooked sugar and yerba mate. After eating as much of the mbeju and cocido as we could, we took a long afternoon siesta.

After waking up from our very long nap,. Liz's host mom made us yet another traditional Paraguayan food called chipa guasu, which was a delicious very moist cornbread like dish. We also enjoyed a round of tereré.

Liz explained to us that tereré is very important to Paraguayans, and we would see it everywhere we went in Paraguay! Tereré is made with yerba mate and sometimes other various herbs, and is very similar to mate but is prepared with cold water and ice rather than with hot water.

The custom of drinking tereré involved one designated person filling up the cup or "guampa" of yerba mate with cold water from the "termos" and passing it to another in the circle. That person would drink all of the tereré using a very fancy straw until it made a very nice gurgling noise, and then pass it back to the filler. The designated filler would then take a turn drinking a cup or filling it up for the next person in the circle. Tereré was very refreshing, and was much-needed on the hot day.

After finishing up our termos of tereré, we took a colectivo into town to get some money out of the ATM. We also bought Lauren some new sunglasses, a phone case, and some fancy Fanta flavors or "jugo". Jugo typically means juice, but for some reason Paraguayans call soda pop jugo as well! We got three different flavors of Fanta- mandarin, pineapple, and guaraná (which tasted like red bull and is apparently super caffeinated!).

We also walked around the exterior of The Cathedral Basilica of Our Lady of Miracles, a large Catholic church in Caacupé. Liz you could climb to the top of the church, and it had a great bird's-eye view of town, but it was almost closed so we decided to wait until the next day to climb to the top!

[![Looking real cute in front of Cathedral Basilica of Our Lady of Miracles in Caacupé](/assets/blog/sippin-on-terere-with-the-fam-in-paraguay/IMG_20181112_164347.jpg "Looking real cute in front of Cathedral Basilica of Our Lady of Miracles in Caacupé")](/assets/blog/sippin-on-terere-with-the-fam-in-paraguay/IMG_20181112_164347.jpg)

### Birthday Part-ay

After walking around downtown Caacupé some more, we walked back to the house. Once home, we started doing our laundry so we weren't as stinky, and then enjoyed some Paraguayan beers and homemade pizza with Liz's host family.

Beers in Paraguay were drank in a fashion very similar to tereré, by passing one open drink around the circle rather than everyone having their own drink. The family was chatting and we were doing our best to comprehend the Spanish. After being particularly confused about what was being discussed, Lauren asked Liz what they were talking about and Liz said they had been speaking in Guaraní for a bit! Go figure!

### Cafe and Exploring Caacupé

The next day, we originally planned on waking up early and going kayaking on a nearby lake, but we were all feeling rather tired and decided to sleep in instead. Once we finally got up, we headed into town to get some brunch and coffee at Liz's favorite coffee shop in town, Amor Perfecto Paraguay - Café Colombiano.

While taking some time to eat, we tried to call the airline for our next flight, LATAM, to change our flights since the whole Avianca situation cut our time in Paraguay short. We figured there would be a fee to change the flight, but after Lauren spent forever on the phone, the LATAM employee was trying to charge us the fee and the whole price of brand new tickets!

Lauren told them it would be cheaper for us to just buy the tickets separate and skip the original flight, but they did not seem to understand. We think that this situation may have had something to do with Lauren being on the phone with a male employee who seemed completely unwilling to listen to what she had to say, and that he might have been a little bit sexist. To help us move past this insane banter we ordered some fancy Japanese siphon coffee.

Following coffee, we went back to the Cathedral Basilica of Our Lady of Miracles, or Santuario de Nuestra Señora de Caacupé to climb to the top of the church. The church is home to a very... interesting looking, but popular statue known as the Virgen de Caacupé, and on the way to the top were a bunch of murals explaining the history of the statue.

[![Super cool magnet we got with a good close up of the virgin statue](/assets/blog/sippin-on-terere-with-the-fam-in-paraguay/20181117_061951.jpg "Super cool magnet we got with a good close up of the virgin statue")](/assets/blog/sippin-on-terere-with-the-fam-in-paraguay/20181117_061951.jpg)

Liz helped translate the history of the murals on our way to the top and told us about a festival centered around the statue called Fiesta de La Virgen de Caacupé where people from all across Paraguay make a pilgrimage to see the statue. The festival is on December 8th every year, and people will bike or even walk to Caacupé from their city (sometimes over 50 km) as a promise to the Virgin Mary statue.

[![People praying at the Virgen de Caacupé](/assets/blog/sippin-on-terere-with-the-fam-in-paraguay/IMG_20181112_163722.jpg "People praying at the Virgen de Caacupé")](/assets/blog/sippin-on-terere-with-the-fam-in-paraguay/IMG_20181112_163722.jpg)

Close to the top of the church we got to walk around the inside of the main rotunda, which had a great view of the interior of the church and the statue. At the top of the church, there was a wonderful view of the small town and the surrounding landscape.

[![Liz and Lauren in the church rotunda](/assets/blog/sippin-on-terere-with-the-fam-in-paraguay/IMG_20181113_151711.jpg "Liz and Lauren in the church rotunda")](/assets/blog/sippin-on-terere-with-the-fam-in-paraguay/IMG_20181113_151711.jpg)

[![View from the top of the church](/assets/blog/sippin-on-terere-with-the-fam-in-paraguay/IMG_20181113_152050-EFFECTS.jpg "View from the top of the church")](/assets/blog/sippin-on-terere-with-the-fam-in-paraguay/IMG_20181113_152050-EFFECTS.jpg)

After descending back to the bottom of the church, we continued our journey through town. We walked through some of the local markets where they were selling these hilarious t-shirts of the Virgin Mary statue.

At the end of the marketplace we went to an all blue church/temple called Tupasy Ykuá Caacupé, Pozo De La Virgen De Caacupé. Next to the church there is a well and fountain, so we filled up our water bottles and grabbed a drink. I may not have mentioned this yet, but the tap water in Paraguay is totally drinkable thanks to something called an Guarani Aquifer that the whole country sits on. Before heading back home we got some killer ice cream at a chain ice cream place called Grido. Since it was so hot the ice cream was definitely well deserved.

[![Liz and Lauren next to the well](/assets/blog/sippin-on-terere-with-the-fam-in-paraguay/IMG_20181113_154427.jpg "Liz and Lauren next to the well")](/assets/blog/sippin-on-terere-with-the-fam-in-paraguay/IMG_20181113_154427.jpg)

### Hangin' with Lucas Down the Stream's Way

After getting home we found Lucas, Liz's host brother, and we decided to go on a walk. The area around their neighborhood was just out of town, and felt like the countryside. Lucas led us to a small stream, where we hung out for a bit before turning back.

[![Roads near Liz's host family](/assets/blog/sippin-on-terere-with-the-fam-in-paraguay/PB130777.jpg "Roads near Liz's host family")](/assets/blog/sippin-on-terere-with-the-fam-in-paraguay/PB130777.jpg)

[![The stream that Lucas led us to!](/assets/blog/sippin-on-terere-with-the-fam-in-paraguay/PB130778.jpg "The stream that Lucas led us to!")](/assets/blog/sippin-on-terere-with-the-fam-in-paraguay/PB130778.jpg)

When we got back we made dinner using some random ingredients that Liz had lying around, including some of the biggest avocados we have ever seen! From talking to Liz and her host family, it seems that no matter what seeds you threw outside in the area where they live, the seeds would grow since the land was so fertile. Maybe we should not have been surprised by the giant avocados!

### Saying goodbye to Caacupé

The next day we had intended to go on a camping trip, but when we woke up the next morning, it seemed Liz was not feeling well. She had felt a little bit under the weather since we arrived, and had been steadily getting worse. So she called her Peace Corps doctor, and we made the decision to head into Asunción instead of going camping so she could see the doctor in person.

Since we could sleep a little longer due to the change in plans, Macuna, Liz's cat, joined us for some time. As Lauren would put it, "Macuna was very cute and was lying between Gerrod's legs and then she cuddled Lauren lots and it was adorable." After some more cat cuddles, we packed up our stuff and said our goodbyes to Liz's host family.

[![Cuddly Macuna between Gerrod's legs!](/assets/blog/sippin-on-terere-with-the-fam-in-paraguay/20181114_061102.jpg "Cuddly Macuna between Gerrod's legs!")](/assets/blog/sippin-on-terere-with-the-fam-in-paraguay/20181114_061102.jpg)

We walked down the street after having a small snack for breakfast, and made our way to the bus stop. This bus was much nicer than the first bus we took leaving Asunción, as it had reclining cushioned seats which made the hour ride much more enjoyable.

## Back in Asunción

### Making Our Way Downtown

Once we arrived in Asunción we grabbed a taxi and headed to [Hotel Los Alpes](http://hotellosalpespy.com/) in an area of the city called Villa Morra, which is the Peace Corps prefered hotel in Asunción. We settled into one of the dorm rooms and headed out to take a bus downtown. Liz got off soon after we departed to go to her doctor's office.

We continued to ride the bus downtown while checking Googlemaps to make sure we would get off at least close to the intended stop. After getting off the bus, we walked down the street through a nice park on our way to the restaurant called [Bolsi](https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g294080-d1086614-Reviews-Restaurante_Bolsi-Asuncion.html), which Liz recommended. We sat down on the outside patio and ordered some hefty burgers, mango and banana milks, and a large hummus plate to the recommendation of Liz, which was spot on.

### Walking Fast

Following our very filling lunch we tried to find a Western Union, since we had a small refund from our Galapagos cruise that we asked the travel agent to send to Paraguay. We tried using Google maps to locate a Western Union, but we found it to be very unreliable as it identified tons of places as Western Union that weren't actually a Western Union. After a very confusing encounter in a bank that had a Western Union counter, we learned that we needed some MTCN number that the travel agent did not provide us. We e-mailed our travel agent at [Happy Gringo](http://www.happygringo.com/) to get the number, and decided to explore some more downtown.

We walked down the road to a beach that Liz told us about called [Costanera de Asunción](https://www.bienvenidoaparaguay.com/showdata.php?xmlcity=9&xmldestino=113). The beach was very tiny and was along a river, so there was not a whole lot going on.

Very near to the beach there was Palacio de López, which is the residence of the president of Paraguay. There was a large touristy "Asunción" sign near the palace that we decided to take a picture of, since it seemed like the thing to do. I tried to get closer to the fence to get a better picture angle of the palace, and I got yelled at by a military officer with a very large gun pointed at me. I didn't feel like I was too close, as I was at least 10 feet away from the fence.

[![Presidential palace and Asunción sign](/assets/blog/sippin-on-terere-with-the-fam-in-paraguay/IMG_6092.jpg "Presidential palace and Asunción sign")](/assets/blog/sippin-on-terere-with-the-fam-in-paraguay/IMG_6092.jpg)

Liz had given us a brief rundown of the political situation in Paraguay, and it seems they have fluctuated between democracy and dictatorship a few times. Most recently, they are a democracy which seems to have hit them pretty hard financially, and there is a lot of debate amongst Paraguayans as to whether or not democracy or dictatorship is better. I bring this up only because we noticed some of the infrastructure seemed to be lacking in the capital of the country. We saw sidewalks crumbling away, many abandoned buildings, and looking across the skyline from the beach it seemed like many of the buildings could use some repairs.

### Now I'm Homebound

We decided to make our way back to the hotel, and used a website Liz showed us called [caminospy.com](https://caminospy.com/) to find a bus that would get us close to our destination. When we got back to our hotel, Liz was taking a much needed nap. After she woke up, we headed out to eat some dinner at a local cafe called [El Cafe de Aca](https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g294080-d2412225-Reviews-El_Cafe_de_Aca-Asuncion.html).

The food was super delicious, and we drank some jugo natural (natural juice... aka not soda!). We noticed that many people around this area of Asunción seemed to be fairly well off, as we observed what appeared to be a nanny taking care of some kids at a table next to us while their mom was having dinner with friends a few tables away.

### Foods and Museums

For breakfast the following day, we decided to have a well balanced breakfast, so we went to an amazing gelato place called [Heladeria Confiteria Quattro D](http://www.quattrod.com.py/) where we got many flavors of gelato. Oh and gigantic sandwiches.

Afterwards we decided to attempt to get our money at Western Union again. The security was so tight that we had to remove hats, glasses, and phones before going through a revolving door while being watched by an armed guard. Of course the computer system was down, so we couldn't get our money. Liz was still feeling very sick, so we walked her back to our hotel and made our way to a museum in town.

On our way to the museum we stopped in a mall, and strangely all of the advertisements were only in English. I am not sure if they thought that only English speakers were going to shop there, but I am not in advertising or marketing so who am I to judge. We stopped at a coffee chain in the mall called [The Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf](https://www.coffeebean.com/), which seemed to be a Starbucks competitor that we must not have in Ohio.

After the pit stop in the mall, we finally arrived at the museum, [Museo del Barro](https://www.museodelbarro.org/). The museum was full of both current and historical art, and had a large exhibit on the native population of Paraguay. Many of the native artifacts were actually found in the late 1900's! They also had a display of intricate lace that Liz had told us about called ñanduti.

[![Beautiful ñanduti at the museum](/assets/blog/sippin-on-terere-with-the-fam-in-paraguay/IMG_6095.jpg "Beautiful ñanduti at the museum")](/assets/blog/sippin-on-terere-with-the-fam-in-paraguay/IMG_6095.jpg)

We got to see some very strange clay sculptures that we dubbed "clay porn", and a lot of disturbing 16th, 17th, and 18th century Catholic artwork. The best part of the museum was that there was no entry fee!

[!["What are they doing Mommy!"](/assets/blog/sippin-on-terere-with-the-fam-in-paraguay/IMG_6097.jpg ""What are they doing Mommy!"")](/assets/blog/sippin-on-terere-with-the-fam-in-paraguay/IMG_6097.jpg)

[![Old religious art](/assets/blog/sippin-on-terere-with-the-fam-in-paraguay/IMG_6103.jpg "Old religious art")](/assets/blog/sippin-on-terere-with-the-fam-in-paraguay/IMG_6103.jpg)

[![Cool native art](/assets/blog/sippin-on-terere-with-the-fam-in-paraguay/IMG_6105-e1544367141977.jpg "Cool native art")](/assets/blog/sippin-on-terere-with-the-fam-in-paraguay/IMG_6105-e1544367141977.jpg)

[![Which one is the artwork?](/assets/blog/sippin-on-terere-with-the-fam-in-paraguay/IMG_6101.jpg "Which one is the artwork?")](/assets/blog/sippin-on-terere-with-the-fam-in-paraguay/IMG_6101.jpg)

### Dinner and a Movie

When we got back to the hotel from the museum, we got to meet some of Liz's Peace Corps buddies. One of them was about to go to Peru for the weekend using Avianca... We were worried for her due to our recent [experience](/posts/attempting-to-leave-peru-a-story-of-avianca-airlines/). Later we found out that her flight was cancelled and rescheduled for a day later; go figure.

We went out to eat with one of Liz's friends at a Korean restaurant near the hotel called [Restaurante Su](https://www.facebook.com/cocinacoreanaSU/). It was super tasty, and I had the dish bibimbap. Bibibop, a food chain from Ohio, modeled their food of of bibimbap, and as you might imagine it was very similar.

Following dinner we went to the movies to see the new Fantastic Beasts in a mall not far from the restaurant. We wanted to view movie with Spanish subtitles rather than the original voices being dubbed over, and while that's what we bought, we accidentally got the 3D version, much to Lauren's disgust. The movie was enjoyable and it was interesting to see how they would translate some of the UK English slang to Spanish. Most of the time it was very different, but probably good enough to get the point across.

### Botanical Garden

The next day we decided to go to the botanical gardens. We took a bus as close as we could, and then walked around the perimeter until we found the entrance. [Jardín Botánico Y Zoológico de Asunción](https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g294080-d526454-Reviews-Botanical_Garden_and_Zoo_Jardin_Botanico_y_Zoologico-Asuncion.html) was gigantic. We were expecting/looking for a traditional manicured garden with labels, similar to botanical gardens in the U.S, and while we were looking for an entrance to the "main part", we were eventually told by a guy who struck up a conversation with us that the whole place was the garden, and there was no "main part".

We stopped by a small pond to take a break, and Lauren searched for a ripe mango amongst the hundreds of mangoes on trees around the pond (she was not successful). I was able to become a gym master of that tiny pond for just a few minutes, for anyone who still plays Pokemon Go.

We walked a few more trails, but were quickly attacked by bugs. We eventually found an herb garden and a very cool tree, but after too many bug bites and the heat of the day getting to us, we decided to head back to the hotel.

[![Just a real cool tree in the botanical garden](/assets/blog/sippin-on-terere-with-the-fam-in-paraguay/IMG_6115.jpg "Just a real cool tree in the botanical garden")](/assets/blog/sippin-on-terere-with-the-fam-in-paraguay/IMG_6115.jpg)

### Plannin', Chillin', and Finally Gettin' Our Money

When we got back to the hotel, Lauren and Liz went to chill by the pool while I tried to go to Western Union one more time. I thought it would only take a few minutes since the bank was a block away.

I headed to the first super secure bank that we tried the other day, but yet again the system was down. Next I headed further into town, where I found another bank with a Western Union sign. When I asked about getting the money, they told me they did not have Western Union and pointed me to a money exchange place across the street. At the third destination in my journey they seemed to finally be able to help. Since I never used Western Union before I needed to register for an account, and the place seemed to be run by only teenagers who spoke only Spanish.

I was able to struggle my way through most of the questions before being helped at the end by someone from the back who spoke some English. By the end of this venture I was able to secure $26 USD of the promised $32 USD refund thanks to the transfer fees that Happy Gringo and Western Union took.

Once I got back to the hotel about an hour or so later, I joined everyone at the pool. Shortly after the pool session, we planned some of our stay in Chile and booked a 34 hour bus ride through Chile. Stay tuned for that adventure.

### The Last Supper

After some naps and bookings, we made our way across town for dinner. We ended up at [Sacramento Brewing Co.](https://www.facebook.com/SacramentoBrewC/) where we met some more of Liz's Peace Corps compatriots. One couple was celebrating the end of their two years of service AND a birthday! We had some great food and drinks before heading home to pack for our flight the next morning.

### Flying to Calama, Chile

The next morning we finished packing our things and headed out early to meet the same Taxi driver who picked us up the first day in Paraguay. I walked to the ATM down the street to grab some cash for our driver and we made our way to the airport after saying our goodbyes to Liz.

When we arrived at the airport the driver took our picture to text Liz that he had delivered "the package." We headed into the airport to check in and waited in another nice VIP lounge called [VIP Gold](https://www.prioritypass.com/en/lounges/paraguay/asuncion-silvio-pettirossi/asu1-vip-gold). After a nice breakfast in the lounge we headed out to wait in line for our plane. I was pleasantly surprised by how organized the Asunción airport was with the boarding gates and lines; they boarded based on seat row instead of random groups.

[![Gerrod and Lauren successfully delivered to the airport](/assets/blog/sippin-on-terere-with-the-fam-in-paraguay/IMG-20181117-WA0001.jpg "Gerrod and Lauren successfully delivered to the airport")](/assets/blog/sippin-on-terere-with-the-fam-in-paraguay/IMG-20181117-WA0001.jpg)

## Paraguay Bonus Information

Paraguay is considered the heart of South America, and is frequently described as the happiest of the South American countries. However, it is often skipped over as a tourist destination. It is a little more difficult to traverse, but the people are incredibly friendly and were very excited to share their culture.

Lauren intends to make a return trip to visit Liz before her service ends, and to see the Pantanal, the world's largest tropical wetland area in the world. Pantantal extends throughout Brazil, Bolivia, and Paraguay and is home to a biologically diverse variety of plants and animals. Lauren is an environmental scientist, and focuses on wetland and stream science back in the United States, so she is eager to see a tropical wetland area!

Love,

Gerrod and Lauren
]]></content:encoded>
            <author>bestseenonfoot@gmail.com (Gerrod Schirtzinger)</author>
        </item>
        <item>
            <title><![CDATA[Attempting to Leave Peru: A Story of Avianca Airlines]]></title>
            <link>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/attempting-to-leave-peru-a-story-of-avianca-airlines</link>
            <guid>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/attempting-to-leave-peru-a-story-of-avianca-airlines</guid>
            <pubDate>Wed, 05 Dec 2018 17:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
            <description><![CDATA[Hello everybody! Gerrod here to fill you in on some of the not so exciting parts of our travels - the traveling part...]]></description>
            <content:encoded><![CDATA[
Hello everybody! Gerrod here to fill you in on some of the not so exciting parts of our travels - the traveling part! The following recounts a tale of our misadventure flying with Avianca airlines starting in the Amazon and ending eventually in Paraguay with our beloved cousin Liz.

## Getting to the Airport

It was finally time to leave the jungle, which I was very excited about. The amount of bugs and heat was finally starting to get to me. Lauren might tell you it was not that bad, but trust me it was. We had an early start in order to get ready to go before having our last meal at the [Amazon Planet](https://www.amazonplanetperu.com/en/) lodge. Soon after breakfast, we jumped in the boat and headed up river to the office.

[![Boat docking at Amazon Planet Office](/assets/blog/attempting-to-leave-peru-a-story-of-avianca-airlines/IMG_20181107_120401.jpg "Boat docking at Amazon Planet Office")](/assets/blog/attempting-to-leave-peru-a-story-of-avianca-airlines/IMG_20181107_120401.jpg)

The office was way hotter than the first time we were there; it even lost power a few times, likely due to the heat. The temperature had been following an ever hotter trend since we arrived - but I had hopes that we would soon be on a plane and on to cooler things.

[![Packing bags in the hot office](/assets/blog/attempting-to-leave-peru-a-story-of-avianca-airlines/IMG_20181107_081728.jpg "Packing bags in the hot office")](/assets/blog/attempting-to-leave-peru-a-story-of-avianca-airlines/IMG_20181107_081728.jpg)

## Puerto Maldonado Airport

We got a ride to the airport in the Amazon Planet SUV, where we finally got a dose of cool air conditioning (I could finally stop sweating! for at least a car ride….). When we finally arrived at the airport, the check-in process for our flight with Avianca went very smooth, and we even got to hang out in the VIP lounge while we waited on the gate to open.

### The Fated Meeting in the VIP Lounge

One man eventually joined us in the VIP lounge, and we were having some interesting conversation him. He was from the United States and was working in Eco tours to the Peruvian Amazon for his retirement. The man also just happened to mention that he has been flying back and forth from Lima to Puerto Maldonado for quite some time, and something usually goes wrong with the flights.

Let me say, I wonder if what transpired over the following 15 hours would have happened had this man not been in our company. Could this be considered foreshadowing? I am not an “English language” scientist, but for those of you who are, you can correct me if I am wrong. I assure you, I blame him in no way other than his foreshadowing of the events that would befall all of us very soon.

### Cusco Airport

Soon after the fated conversation, we boarded our flight at 11:30 am (on time), and landed in Cusco for a quick stopover less than an hour later. We sat on the plane and waited for the next batch of passengers to board. Lauren watched Netflix while I continued to play some Nintendo Switch.

After the passengers boarded, we got the safety briefing as usual and the plane started towards the runway. Now since I have already mentioned foreshadowing, you can probably already guess that when we arrived at the runway, nothing happened.

### Something is Wrong

The next thing we know the pilot is coming on the speaker system telling us that “the control tower says to head back to the gate because we are not cleared to take off, and oh, also by the way, there is a check engine light thingy on”. At this point Lauren and I look at each other and say, “didn’t we just fly here in this plane…?”

So the plane headed back to the gates and where we sat, and sat…..and sat, without being able to leave the plane, while they troubleshoot the issue. Lots of time went by with no information from any of the Avianca staff. They would occasionally get on the speaker and say, “ we maybe can take off in the next 30 minutes”, but after about 2 and a half hours of sitting on the plane we had still not taken off. They eventually gave us some crappy airline snacks consisting of a juice box and crackers, and told us we could get off the plane, only to wait for longer in the airport.

### Bored and Waiting

After we got off the plane, we found ourselves in a mostly empty airport surrounded by many confused and angry passengers. Everyone was missing their connecting flights, but our connecting flight was so late that we were hoping we might still make it. During this time, Avianca made ZERO announcements, which only made all of the passengers even more confused and angry.

[![Gerrod and Lauren frustrated and bored](/assets/blog/attempting-to-leave-peru-a-story-of-avianca-airlines/20181110_180948.jpg "Gerrod and Lauren frustrated and bored")](/assets/blog/attempting-to-leave-peru-a-story-of-avianca-airlines/20181110_180948.jpg)

We originally were planning on spending our long, 6 hour layover hanging out in the VIP lounge in the Lima airport, but at this point we were just hoping we would make our connecting flight. Although Cusco is a pretty major city and tourist destination in Peru, the airport did not have WiFi or any outlets to charge our already dead electronics. This made sitting in the airport very boring, and made time pass very slowly.

### Misinformation and Panic

Several of the angry and confused passengers went up to the kiosk to ask questions, and amongst all of the nonsense of waiting, misinformation spread like wildfire through the crowd. We made a few English-speaking friends while waiting for any information to come from the airline, including the man from the VIP lounge who foreshadowed the day’s events. He happened to be flying first class, and spoke Spanish much better than we did.

When Avianca did finally make an announcement, they made it only in Spanish, despite having a half English-speaking passenger base. After speaking with our VIP lounge friend, he said that they said “it would be at least 3 more hours so if you are going to miss your connecting flight to go to the desk to reschedule your flight”. We also heard muddled announcements and rumors that the flight was going to be cancelled, and that we needed to make arrangements to stay overnight in Lima.

### Lines and More Lines

As all airports do, to get to the desk to reschedule our connecting flight, they sent us out of security back to the check-in desks to handle this unfortunate scenario. Wait, did I say all airports?

I have never seen so much ridiculousness and confusion in an airport in my life, and it could be seen on everyone’s faces involved. For the next few hours we were herded like cattle through different lines, were told to go different places, and eventually told to go out of the airport to the check in desk. We were told several times that our flight was cancelled, and then were told several times that our flight was not cancelled.

[![Lines for Avianca](/assets/blog/attempting-to-leave-peru-a-story-of-avianca-airlines/IMG_20181110_180957.jpg "Lines for Avianca")](/assets/blog/attempting-to-leave-peru-a-story-of-avianca-airlines/IMG_20181110_180957.jpg)

There was no order or sense to anything that was happening. There were three other flights with Avianca that were supposed to go to Lima that were all either cancelled or delayed, and the attendants would tell us where to go our shift us to other lines without even asking us what flight we were originally on; and none of these lines seemed to move.

### Thanks for Nothing

There was only one Avianca employee that seemed to know what was going on, and finally one of the friends that we made wrestled their way to speak with him, and passed the information on to us. According to the one employee with the answers, our flight was not cancelled, only delayed.

After waiting in lines that didn’t move for at least 2 hours, we fought our way to the front to ask if we should just board the plane without rescheduling our connecting flight as this line nonsense had gone on so long that our original flight was finally ready to take off. Well as it turns out the reason the lines didn’t move is because the people on the cancelled flights were hogging the attendants, and were waiting for us to give up our seats so they could get on our flight! Lauren and I were very confused because how are we supposed to give up our seats while we are stuck at the back of the line???!! Thank you Cusco airport staff!

After the Avianca employee behind the desks looked at our ticket and told us that our flight was “not until tomorrow” (what?!) we finally decided to run back through security and board the flight. This of course consisted of a few more nonsensical lines through security, outside the gate, inside the gate, and even in the plane!

## Lima Airport

We boarded a new plane, and finally departed Cusco at 9 pm. Our flight to Paraguay was supposed to leave at 9:50 pm, and considering we landed in Lima at 10:30 pm, we definitely ended up missing our connecting flight anyways. Upon landing, we asked an airport employee what we should do next, and she said to grab our luggage and head to the front desk at the check-in area. So, we headed to baggage claim to grab our bags. At first we did not see our luggage, but after showing our tags to a truly helpful attendant, she tracked down our luggage! I guess they were just going to hold onto until the next flight to Paraguay.

### Now THIS is Service

We made our way to the check in help desk as directed by the other airport staff. We saw some people from our flight get turned away, so when we finally made it to the desk we insisted that someone told us to come to this specific desk as we didn’t want to wait in yet another line. She didn’t try to argue with us, and immediately began helping us! Success!

After finding out that there is only one flight per day to Paraguay from Lima we realized we would need to stay in Lima until 9:50 pm the next day. There was some silver lining to this cloud of the bullshit the day had thrown at us - Avianca provided us with a very fancy hotel room, all of our meals, and taxi service to and from the airport.

### On Our Way to Rest

We waited in line for a taxi with many other frustrated Avianca passengers. Apparently Avianca screwed up more than just flights from Cusco, but also from Argentina and Brazil. We got in the taxi and were taken through the city. The taxi driver drove like it was a race against time itself. Most of the buildings we passed seemed to be casinos. We finally arrived at the hotel, which also happened to be a casino hotel called [Los Delfines](http://www.losdelfineshotel.com/).

[![Lauren exhausted but happy we are finally out of the airport](/assets/blog/attempting-to-leave-peru-a-story-of-avianca-airlines/IMG_20181111_005201.jpg "Lauren exhausted but happy we are finally out of the airport")](/assets/blog/attempting-to-leave-peru-a-story-of-avianca-airlines/IMG_20181111_005201.jpg)

### And Relaxation

We got checked into our room around 1:30 am and ordered some room service. Room service took some time, and we didn't end up going to bed until around 2:30 am. What a day...

[![Fancy hotel room](/assets/blog/attempting-to-leave-peru-a-story-of-avianca-airlines/IMG_20181111_011237.jpg "Fancy hotel room")](/assets/blog/attempting-to-leave-peru-a-story-of-avianca-airlines/IMG_20181111_011237.jpg)

## Lima

The hotel served an amazing breakfast buffet with all the fixings we could possibly want. Since we had the day to spend in Lima, we looked up some directions using a combination of Google maps and [Maps.ME](https://maps.me/) and found ourselves headed to a district called Miraflores.

[![View outside the front doors of our hotel](/assets/blog/attempting-to-leave-peru-a-story-of-avianca-airlines/IMG_20181111_150537.jpg "View outside the front doors of our hotel")](/assets/blog/attempting-to-leave-peru-a-story-of-avianca-airlines/IMG_20181111_150537.jpg)

On our walk, we came upon a roundabout with a movie theater and many fast food joints surrounding it. Across the circle we saw what I could only describe as a church right out of the video game Morrowind.

[![A strange looking church across the circle](/assets/blog/attempting-to-leave-peru-a-story-of-avianca-airlines/IMG_20181111_153630.jpg "A strange looking church across the circle")](/assets/blog/attempting-to-leave-peru-a-story-of-avianca-airlines/IMG_20181111_153630.jpg)

### Pit Stop for Smoothies and Dessert

Maps.ME had a viewpoint called Parque Grau Miraflores that supposedly had a great view of the coast, so we decided to head that way. On the way we came across a nice little cafe called Lucio Caffè where we stopped for some nice smoothie drinks and desserts; good choice for lunch right?

### Miraflores and the View

After we finished up at the cafe, we continued down the road to the viewpoint. Miraflores was clearly a wealthy district of the city. There was a nice park with a statue and a bike trail. The first time we were in Lima, our Uber driver said he would not wander around in the area we were staying in at night. Miraflores had a very different feel - clean and very welcoming. The viewpoint called Parque Grau Miraflores had a great view of the Ocean.

[![Lauren in the park](/assets/blog/attempting-to-leave-peru-a-story-of-avianca-airlines/IMG_20181111_163146.jpg "Lauren in the park")](/assets/blog/attempting-to-leave-peru-a-story-of-avianca-airlines/IMG_20181111_163146.jpg)

[![Gerrod in the park closer to ocean](/assets/blog/attempting-to-leave-peru-a-story-of-avianca-airlines/IMG_20181111_163434.jpg "Gerrod in the park closer to ocean")](/assets/blog/attempting-to-leave-peru-a-story-of-avianca-airlines/IMG_20181111_163434.jpg)

### Time to Go

After the park we made our way back to the hotel to have some free dinner before checking out. As we checked out there was a taxi driver right behind us who approached as we finished and asked if we were the people he was waiting for; and wouldn’t you know it we were!

### Flying Round Two

This time at the airport we went in with a more defensive frame of mind; ready to deal with whatever crap they threw at us. Luckily that mindset was not needed. We checked in and headed to the VIP lounge to have some drinks before boarding the plane. After we boarded the plane, we were given an immediate announcement of technical issues with the plane… Oh no, here we go again!! Luckily we were up in the air only 45 minutes later than scheduled on our way to meet Liz in Paraguay.

## What Did We Learn

Sorry for the super long rant, but sometimes travelling is not all fun and games and this is one of those times we thought would be worth sharing. There a few takeaways here: Do not fly with Avianca (the airline we have been dogging this whole time) unless you have to, be prepared for travel plans to not go your way, and try to be flexible and keep your cool.

We are learning that traveling by bus in South America is the way to go if you have the time, but we will touch on that later. Anyways stay tuned for our trip to Paraguay and our adventures with Liz!

Love,

Gerrod (and Lauren)
]]></content:encoded>
            <author>bestseenonfoot@gmail.com (Gerrod Schirtzinger)</author>
        </item>
        <item>
            <title><![CDATA[Our Amazon Rainforest Trip!]]></title>
            <link>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/our-amazon-rainforest-trip</link>
            <guid>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/our-amazon-rainforest-trip</guid>
            <pubDate>Mon, 03 Dec 2018 17:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
            <description><![CDATA[Hi Everyone! Lauren here to tell you about our trip to the Amazon! We attempted to go to the Amazon Rainforest...]]></description>
            <content:encoded><![CDATA[
Hi Everyone! Lauren here to tell you about our trip to the Amazon! We attempted to go to the Amazon Rainforest in Ecuador, however things don’t always go as planned. So while we were still in Ecuador, we booked a tour using [Gulliver Expeditions](https://gulliver.com.ec/) to a lodge called [Amazon Planet](https://www.amazonplanetperu.com/en/) in Peru.

Our tour to the Amazon started from a city called Puerto Maldonado, Peru. We opted to save some money and take a night bus with a company called [Cruz Del Sur](http://www.cruzdelsur.com.pe/) from Cusco to Puerto Maldonado rather than fly. So on our last day in Cusco, we checked out of our hostel and did a lot of relaxing (which consisted of me binge watching Netflix rather than writing blog posts) before heading to the bus station in the evening. The bus was very nice, with very comfortable chairs and personal TVs for everyone. They even handed out snacks!

Our bus departed at 9 pm so we were both planning on sleeping the majority of the time, but there were a lot of little kids they were crying so loud and screeching like pterodactyls. Gerrod tried playing his Nintendo Switch and watched Ready Player One in Spanish while I listened to music. We could both still hear the loud kids even with our headphones in. They did eventually quiet down, and we got a little bit of sleep.

## Puerto Maldonado → Amazon Rainforest

When we finally arrived in Puerto Maldonado at 7 am the next morning, we were picked up from the bus station by a guide from the [Amazon Planet](https://www.amazonplanetperu.com/en/) company. She gave us some interesting facts about the city on our way to the office. We then re-packed our bags and relaxed for a while. At the office, we met a girl from England that would be joining us for the next few days in the jungle.

After a few hours, we got on the boat and headed down river to our camp! The boat trip took about an hour, and I even saw a toucan in a tree from the boat! After we arrived at the lodge, we had lunch, met our guide, Listen (pronounced Lee-stun), and were shown to our jungle cabin.

[![Crusin’ down the river](/assets/blog/our-amazon-rainforest-trip/IMG_20181107_120524.jpg "Crusin’ down the river")](/assets/blog/our-amazon-rainforest-trip/IMG_20181107_120524.jpg)

## Arrival at Amazon Planet

After lunch, Listen took us on the first of many nature walks. Our group was small, with just us, our guide, the girl from England, and another older couple from England. Although we didn’t see too much that is traditionally considered “exciting”, it was amazing to see how dense the forest was and to listen to all the birds. There was an abundance of ants, and I was particularly fascinated with the leaf cutter ants. They carried such huge leaves compared to their body size!

[![On a nature walk with our guide](/assets/blog/our-amazon-rainforest-trip/IMG_20181107_152115.jpg "On a nature walk with our guide")](/assets/blog/our-amazon-rainforest-trip/IMG_20181107_152115.jpg)

We also saw a “tree turkey”, jungle red squirrels (which are way more exotic than normal Ohio squirrels), lots of fruit, and plants in every direction. After our nature walk, we had time to relax. I guess they call it a rainforest for a reason, because it started raining pretty hard so Gerrod and I sat on our porch and listened to the rain.

## Caiman Searching and Star Gazing

After our well deserved naps, we had a night excursion on the river. We got on our boat and went searching for caimans and capybaras along the river. We saw tons of caimans, but unfortunately no capybaras. Listen was particularly good at spotting caiman!

[![White Caiman](/assets/blog/our-amazon-rainforest-trip/IMG_5670.jpg "White Caiman")](/assets/blog/our-amazon-rainforest-trip/IMG_5670.jpg)

Our boat driver then took us to the middle of the river to stargaze and relax. Stargazing is one of my favorite activities, and watching them while we rocked in the boat in the middle of the river was particularly meditative.

Following our nighttime river ride, we headed back to the lodge to have dinner, and spent the rest of the night trying to not get eaten alive by bugs. Our room had bug repellent incense and a mosquito net due to the insane amount of bugs. I still managed to wake up the next morning with new bug bites!

## Is that a monkey?

On the walk to the lodge for breakfast the next morning, Gerrod immediately spotted a monkey in the trees! The monkey was a reddish color, and very fast. I wanted to get a picture, but it was too far away and I didn’t think to bring my camera to breakfast.

After breakfast we had a nature spotting walk through the jungle with our guide. We were headed to a “canopy walk”. I wasn’t quite sure what that meant, but Listen gave us harnesses before our walk so I was prepared for some climbing.

After about 37.63 seconds of walking, Listen spotted a group of monkeys! They were a reddish color, and were right next to the trail, so I had plenty of time to take photos. Listen said they were titi monkeys, and were likely the same red monkeys we had seen at breakfast. We spent time watching them jump from tree to tree while Listen gave us tons of facts about titi monkeys. One of the monkeys had a baby on its back!

[![Titi Monkey](/assets/blog/our-amazon-rainforest-trip/IMG_5727.jpg "Titi Monkey")](/assets/blog/our-amazon-rainforest-trip/IMG_5727.jpg)

## The Canopy Walk: Bugs, Birds, and Bugs

We continued our walk through the rainforest, and saw tons of bugs and plants (and bugs). The canopy walk ended up being a huge swinging bridge leading to the top of a very tall tree. The walkway seemed fairly secure and not too difficult, but I was not confident the harness would save us if we fell.

[![Swinging bridge to the canopy of a Kapok Tree](/assets/blog/our-amazon-rainforest-trip/PB080705.jpg "Swinging bridge to the canopy of a Kapok Tree")](/assets/blog/our-amazon-rainforest-trip/PB080705.jpg)

At the top of the tree, we could see for what seemed like miles over the tops of the trees! There were so many different kinds of birds including macaws and vultures. Listen had binoculars so we could see the macaws in the distance. He knew the different types of birds just from their calls, and spent time looking to spot toucans since our British group mate really wanted to see one!

There were also so many kinds of bugs including wasps. There was a bird that was nesting in the tree we were in that has a symbiotic relationship with wasps. This also meant there was a wasp nest right next to us! The wasps kept buzzing around us, so we decided to head down and continue the rest of the walk.

[![In the canopy of a Kapok Tree](/assets/blog/our-amazon-rainforest-trip/IMG_20181108_094730.jpg "In the canopy of a Kapok Tree")](/assets/blog/our-amazon-rainforest-trip/IMG_20181108_094730.jpg)

## Rescue Center and Naps

On our way back to the lodge, we stopped by [Taricaya Rescue Center](http://www.taricayaecoreserve.com/), where we saw a puma, howler monkeys, spider monkeys, furry monkeys, some weird turkeys, bears, and birds.

After we got back to the lodge, we had lunch and time to relax. Relaxation time consisted of hanging out in some hammocks. There was a slight breeze that lulled us into a nap.

[![Napping in hammocks](/assets/blog/our-amazon-rainforest-trip/IMG_20181108_113628.jpg "Napping in hammocks")](/assets/blog/our-amazon-rainforest-trip/IMG_20181108_113628.jpg)

## The jungle is a lil’ scary at night

At night, we headed out into the jungle for a night walk. It was a little creepy walking through the forest at night because it was so dark, but our trusty guide Listen was guiding us so I felt a little better. We saw so many different bugs, including tons of spiders!

Spiders eyes glow at night when you shine light on them, and I showed Gerrod a cool trick I know to amplify this effect. If you hold the light close to you eyes, you can see this effect more readily, and in the jungle this means you can see the 800 spiders that are everywhere. As Gerrod summarized it, “well that is terrifying”. The 800 spiders everywhere included tons of tarantulas.

[![Pink Toed Tarantula hiding in a tree](/assets/blog/our-amazon-rainforest-trip/IMG_5780.jpg "Pink Toed Tarantula hiding in a tree")](/assets/blog/our-amazon-rainforest-trip/IMG_5780.jpg)

Listen seemed to know where all of the tarantulas’ “lairs” were, and while taking pictures of one of them we all got attacked by some ants! I was spared from any ant bites, but Gerrod and our British companion got some painful bites. There was even a bug that glowed in the dark, which we conveniently got to see by turning off all of the flashlights... in the jungle... at night...after seeing tarantulas everywhere.

[![Listen coaxing a tarantula outside of its lair](/assets/blog/our-amazon-rainforest-trip/IMG_5833.jpg "Listen coaxing a tarantula outside of its lair")](/assets/blog/our-amazon-rainforest-trip/IMG_5833.jpg)

## An early start for Lago Sandoval

We woke up very early on our third day for an excursion to [Lago Sandoval](https://www.lonelyplanet.com/peru/lago-sandoval). According to Listen, the lake was much better in the morning, but it is very hard to believe that at 5 am. After having some quick tea and coffee (and no breakfast) we hopped on the boat and headed up river. Listen gave us both large bags of snacks and sandwiches that we could eat later.

After about an hour on the boat, we put on some rubber boots they provided us and hopped on shore. Listen said rubber boots would be essential because it was very muddy, but I somehow grabbed two different sized boots so the comfort level was questionable. The walk to the lake was about 3 km through mud, so I am very glad I had the boots on. We even got to see some blue macaws in the trees!

[![Three blue-and-yellow macaws in a tree](/assets/blog/our-amazon-rainforest-trip/IMG_5867.jpg "Three blue-and-yellow macaws in a tree")](/assets/blog/our-amazon-rainforest-trip/IMG_5867.jpg)

## Canoeing

Once we got close to the lake, we came upon a bunch canoes that were floating in a flooded marsh surrounded by trees. Listen grabbed one of the canoes, and we traversed through the dense marsh which eventually opened up into a very large lake surrounded by trees.

[![Canoes in the marsh](/assets/blog/our-amazon-rainforest-trip/PB090739.jpg "Canoes in the marsh")](/assets/blog/our-amazon-rainforest-trip/PB090739.jpg)

[Lago Sandoval](https://www.lonelyplanet.com/peru/lago-sandoval) is the nesting ground for endangered giant river otters, and Listen was on a mission to find them. He paddled us out into the center of the lake “to get a better view to spot them”. It was very hot and sunny the whole time...and every time he saw some movement in the water he would quickly paddle us there to see if it was the otters.

## Quit Monkeying around

One of our failed attempts to spot the otters was successful in another way. We had just paddled across the entire lake, and stumbled upon a large troop of squirrel monkeys. They were so small and cute, and were so close to us. There were easily 100 monkeys, and I could tell this was something you didn’t get to see every day because even our guide was excited and was taking pictures.

I took tons of photos, and we sat and watched them for a long time. Other canoe-ers on the lake came to us and we all watched the monkeys together. There were also another species of monkey called the Capuchin monkey hanging out with the squirrel monkeys.

[![Squirrel monkeys!](/assets/blog/our-amazon-rainforest-trip/IMG_5930.jpg "Squirrel monkeys!")](/assets/blog/our-amazon-rainforest-trip/IMG_5930.jpg)

[![Paint me like one of your French Squirrel Monkeys...](/assets/blog/our-amazon-rainforest-trip/IMG_5931.jpg "Paint me like one of your French Squirrel Monkeys...")](/assets/blog/our-amazon-rainforest-trip/IMG_5931.jpg)

[![Look! A wild Squirrel Monkey!](/assets/blog/our-amazon-rainforest-trip/IMG_5938.jpg "Look! A wild Squirrel Monkey!")](/assets/blog/our-amazon-rainforest-trip/IMG_5938.jpg)

[![Awwww cute baby piggy-back ride](/assets/blog/our-amazon-rainforest-trip/IMG_5886.jpg "Awwww cute baby piggy-back ride")](/assets/blog/our-amazon-rainforest-trip/IMG_5886.jpg)

While the monkeys were foraging, they accidentally knocked a snake out of the tree. Listen said the snake was not a supposed to be a water snake, and it tried to get on to our boat for safety!

## Giant River Otters in Lago Sandoval

After watching the monkeys, Listen started his giant river otter mission again. He finally spotted them across the lake, and we very quickly paddled towards the otters. We got really close to the otters and they were GIANT and made really funny noises.

[![Giant River Otters](/assets/blog/our-amazon-rainforest-trip/IMG_6011.jpg "Giant River Otters")](/assets/blog/our-amazon-rainforest-trip/IMG_6011.jpg)

There were about 6 otters hunting together, and Listen told us about their foraging habits and how they are very sensitive to stressful situations, so there are areas on the lake that are forbidden to traverse. Since they are endangered, you are not supposed to get very close to them as to not stress them out. This was difficult to do anyways as they swam incredibly fast.

## Give me a break

After watching them for a while, we paddled to a nearby dock to have a snack and relaxation break. We got off the canoe and walked to a nearby hotel. There was a cute kitty chilling there that I pet, and we ate our snacks. Some of the crumbs broke off while we were eating our crackers, and some ants discovered them and were carrying them to their home. We watched the ants for like 15 minutes, and then chilled in some hammocks again.

After taking about an hour break there, we headed back out on the lake to make the long journey back to our lodge. While making our way back to the river boat, we saw some weird ancient bird with a funny face and hair do, some fancy cranes, and some sleepy howler monkeys.

[![Weird ancient bird called Hoatzin](/assets/blog/our-amazon-rainforest-trip/IMG_6048.jpg "Weird ancient bird called Hoatzin")](/assets/blog/our-amazon-rainforest-trip/IMG_6048.jpg)

[![Caiman spotted in the marsh](/assets/blog/our-amazon-rainforest-trip/IMG_6067.jpg "Caiman spotted in the marsh")](/assets/blog/our-amazon-rainforest-trip/IMG_6067.jpg)

Listen told us a fun fact about howler monkeys: they stick their finger in their butt to get poo on it, and then stick it out and wait for bugs to be attracted to the poo. Then they eat the bugs. Nature is so neat!

## Rafting and goodbye

After getting back to the lodge, relaxing, and having lunch, we had our last jungle activity: rafting. We were taken up river in the boat, and then hopped in some blow up rafts with the goal of making it back to the lodge. We didn’t see very much, but it was very relaxing.

[![Lauren doing lots of work in the raft](/assets/blog/our-amazon-rainforest-trip/PB090771.jpg "Lauren doing lots of work in the raft")](/assets/blog/our-amazon-rainforest-trip/PB090771.jpg)

[![Gerrod says heyyy in the raft](/assets/blog/our-amazon-rainforest-trip/PB090767.jpg "Gerrod says heyyy in the raft")](/assets/blog/our-amazon-rainforest-trip/PB090767.jpg)

After our rafting activity, we packed up our stuff in preparation for our departure the next morning and then hung out at the bar. We talked with the bartender quite a bit until dinner time.

The Amazon Forest is full of life, and I loved learning about the amazing diversity. The diversity includes 8000 bugs that want to eat you, but I think it is worth it. Gerrod may have a different opinion. Until next time!

Love,

Lauren (and Gerrod)

[![Lauren: bird of paradise](/assets/blog/our-amazon-rainforest-trip/IMG_20181109_112752.jpg "Lauren: bird of paradise")](/assets/blog/our-amazon-rainforest-trip/IMG_20181109_112752.jpg)

[![Gerrod: bird of paradise](/assets/blog/our-amazon-rainforest-trip/IMG_20181109_112822.jpg "Gerrod: bird of paradise")](/assets/blog/our-amazon-rainforest-trip/IMG_20181109_112822.jpg)
]]></content:encoded>
            <author>bestseenonfoot@gmail.com (Lauren Schirtzinger)</author>
        </item>
        <item>
            <title><![CDATA[Cusco!]]></title>
            <link>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/cusco</link>
            <guid>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/cusco</guid>
            <pubDate>Mon, 26 Nov 2018 17:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
            <description><![CDATA[Hi everyone, we are finally posting about the things we did in Cusco, Peru...]]></description>
            <content:encoded><![CDATA[
Hi everyone, we are finally posting about the things we did in Cusco, Peru (other than the trek to Machu Picchu obviously). We have not posted any blog posts due to very unreliable internet, and I also just haven’t really felt like writing. That being said, we have done a lot in the last 3 weeks or so, and have seen some amazing things! This should be the first of quite a few posts to come over the next few days as long as we have some time and the internet continues to work.

## Free Walking Tour

Our first day in Cusco we decided to do a free walking tour of the city. We tend to always do the free walking tours we find, as they help us get better acquainted with the city, and we always learn more than we would just looking things up online! We decided to go with a company called Inkan Milky Way Cusco based on online reviews.

We met at Plaza El Regocijo to meet Inkan Milky Way Cusco, and it was very easy to find them. Our tour group was fairly large (20-30 people), and we all went around saying where we were from. Gerrod and I were the only people from the US in the whole group! Our guide led us around the central area of Cusco and discussed things regarding the history of Cusco and the Incas, the flora and fauna of Peru, and the Cusco flag.

[![Plaza El Regocijo](/assets/blog/cusco/IMG_4988.jpg "Plaza El Regocijo")](/assets/blog/cusco/IMG_4988.jpg)

The Cusco flag is literally a rainbow flag very similar to the LGBTQ flag, but with light blue as well. Our guide said he had been asked so many times about the flag or if gay pride is very important in Cusco.

Cusco was the capital of the Inca empire, and our guide showed us the many signs of the amazing Inca architecture throughout the city. The Incas made blocks perfectly fit together and didn’t use any cement between the stones to get them to fit. When the Spanish came in they wrecked many of the Inca buildings and built their own using the blocks.

[![Spanish blocks on the left; Inca blocks on the right](/assets/blog/cusco/IMG_5017.jpg "Spanish blocks on the left; Inca blocks on the right")](/assets/blog/cusco/IMG_5017.jpg)

The guide showed us some of the Spanish architecture at the Plaza De Armas/Plaza Mayor del Cusco where we had a great view of two different churches. The churches were beautiful! The difference between the Spanish architecture and Inca architecture was very apparent on the side streets. Our guide discussed that the Spanish tore down as many of the Inca structures as quickly as possible when they were conquering the city, and then later regretted it.

Apparently, there was an earthquake and all of the Spanish built buildings fell down, and the remaining Inca walls were still intact post earthquake. So, following that the Spanish started utilizing the Inca walls and just built their buildings on top of them!

[![Plaza de Armas](/assets/blog/cusco/IMG_5007.jpg "Plaza de Armas")](/assets/blog/cusco/IMG_5007.jpg)

Our guide also took us to Kusicancha, the only palace ruins left in Cusco. According to our guide, the word Inca actually refers to the ruler, and the common people were not called Incas. Each Inca (aka king) got their own palace and had very large families with many wives. There was evidence of many rooms in Kusicancha, and it was built in a grid-like pattern! The blocks fit perfectly together. I can’t imagine how they got the blocks that perfect, but our guide insisted it was not Aliens.

I highly suggest free walking tours for everybody in big cities.

## Cristo Blanco

A large statue of Jesus up on a hill is visible almost everywhere in Cusco. During our walking tour, our guide said it had a great view of the city. So a few days after our trek was over, Gerrod and I decided to walk up and get the views of the City. We looked at Maps.me and started the walk up.

[![Cristo Blanco](/assets/blog/cusco/Snapchat-66622660.jpg "Cristo Blanco")](/assets/blog/cusco/Snapchat-66622660.jpg)

It was 80,000 degrees outside, and we kept getting lost because there isn’t very good signage of the street names in Cusco (and much of South America from what we can tell so far). Luckily, some locals knew what we were doing and gave us directions. We got to a staircase that went up a lot of the hill and whew it was exhausting! Gerrod and I thought maybe walking uphill would be easier following the trek, but we seemed to still get very winded.

At the top there was a big ol’ Jesus statue, and some super cute llamas. The view of the city was incredible!

## Sacsayhuamán, Q’Enqo, Puka Pukara, and Tambomachay

After we went to Cristo Blanco, we headed to Sacsayhuamán, an ancient Inca fortress that is literally pronounced (Sex-ay-wo-man). We thought it would be free, but it turns out you needed a ticket, and they didn’t offer a ticket for just Sacsayhuamán, you had to buy a package. There were several options to choose from, and we just barely had enough cash for a partial ticket which included 3 more sites.

[![Lauren in front of blocks at Sacsayhuamán](/assets/blog/cusco/IMG_5479.jpg "Lauren in front of blocks at Sacsayhuamán")](/assets/blog/cusco/IMG_5479.jpg)

The ticket cost 70 soles each, and everything had to be visited in one day. Naturally we had to visit them all. We spent some time walking around Sacsayhuamán observing the interesting architecture. There were no signs explaining anything, so we didn’t really know what all we were looking at, but since we had seen so many other sites with a guide we got the general idea. I also pulled up with Wikipedia page on the site and read it so we knew more about what we were looking at.

The complex was huge! There were several walls and apparent guard towers with a large green space. Further north of the complex was an area with several rocks with squares cut out of them. It appeared to be where they “harvested” their rocks to use for the complex. There was also a rock with a smooth surface that was like a natural slide area where kids (and adults!) were sliding down the rocks.

[![Lauren pre-“rock slide” trip](/assets/blog/cusco/IMG_5517.jpg "Lauren pre-“rock slide” trip")](/assets/blog/cusco/IMG_5517.jpg)

I insisted Gerrod and I do it, and it was very steep and fast! Gerrod got going really fast! There were also some small caves that we walked through, although they smelled a bit like pee.

[![Gerrod in the pee smelling cave](/assets/blog/cusco/20181102_125548.jpg "Gerrod in the pee smelling cave")](/assets/blog/cusco/20181102_125548.jpg)

It was thundering a bit at the beginning of walking around Sacsayhuamán and we were afraid it was going to downpour, but luckily it only sprinkled a bit. After we were done exploring, we started our walk down the road to the next site, Q’Enqo. As we were walking into what appeared to be the entrance of the site, we got yelled at for walking through the exit even though there was no sign. The guard was very mad at us! Luckily we had already paid which helped us out a little bit.

[![Gerrod in the Q’Enqo ritual cave](/assets/blog/cusco/IMG_5524.jpg "Gerrod in the Q’Enqo ritual cave")](/assets/blog/cusco/IMG_5524.jpg)

Luckily this site had some signs explaining what we were looking at, or else it may have just looked like everything else we had already seen. This site was where they performed ancient rituals, potentially even human sacrifices!

The third site, Puka Pukara, was very far away and we weren’t sure how to get there. We tried to get an Uber, but that failed. We talked about walking, but it would apparently take an hour and a half of walking uphill along the road, which didn’t sound very fun. After not getting an Uber, and deciding we didn’t want to walk, we headed up to the road to wait in the area Maps.me claimed there was a bus stop (it didn’t look very much like a bus stop).

After waiting a bit, a Taxi pulled up and said he could take us there, but the price was double what it said the Uber would be! We almost tried bargaining with the Taxi driver, when a local bus pulled up! Woohoo thank you Maps.me! So we hopped on and saved a ton of money.

Puka Pukara, also known as “Red Fort” was a small fort with a beautiful view. They didn’t even check our ticket at the entrance, so I guess it was free.

[![Puka Pukara view](/assets/blog/cusco/IMG_20181102_141924.jpg "Puka Pukara view")](/assets/blog/cusco/IMG_20181102_141924.jpg)

Next we walked over to Tambomachay which was pretty much across the street. They checked our ticket, and we looked at some signage which made it seem like there were lots of paths to walk around, which later turned out to not be entirely true. Tambomachay was apparently a spa like fountain area used by the Inca/kings. We walked down the main pathway and stumbled upon an interesting fountain building. Here, there were a lot of paths that led away from the main area, but went nowhere. Oh well!

[![Fuentes! (aka fountains) at Tambomachay](/assets/blog/cusco/IMG_20181102_144316.jpg "Fuentes! (aka fountains) at Tambomachay")](/assets/blog/cusco/IMG_20181102_144316.jpg)

We went to the Maps.me bus stop, and hopped back on the local bus back to Sacsayhuamán. From there we walked back to the hostel, which was luckily down hill!

## Maras Salt Mine and ATVs

I had ready about “Maras Moray” online and thought it looked interesting, so we booked a tour using the tour company in the lobby of the current party hostel we were staying in. The tour the agent said one of the best tours to Maras and Moray was an ATV tour which sounded super fun and different, so we booked it!

The tour that should have started at 7:15 am the following day with a hostel pick up, but it took awhile for them to show up and when they finally did, it was just a guy that led us to the main square. There, met up with the rest of the tour group which were all native Spanish speakers.

We hopped on a transport van and headed out to the ATV place! We then got a safety lesson on ATVs and a quick test drive; they were semi automatic, so they were manuals without the clutch.

[![Lauren on an ATV! Wow!](/assets/blog/cusco/IMG_20181103_102535.jpg "Lauren on an ATV! Wow!")](/assets/blog/cusco/IMG_20181103_102535.jpg)

We had the option to either go to a lagoon or to Moray (another Inca ruin). After learning that there was quite a costly entrance fee to get into Moray, we chose to do the lagoon instead which the rest of the group was doing as well. We all hopped on our ATVs and headed down the road to our first stop, Maras salt mine.

At the salt mine, one of our guides (who luckily spoke very good English!) taught us about the history of the place. There is a stream of salty water coming from the mountain, and they let it flow into separate pools and evaporate out the water to produce the salt! No one knows why the water is salty, but the owners of the mine don’t want to explore and accidentally contaminate the salt, so they just accept that it is awesome and don’t ask questions.

[![Maras Salt Mine](/assets/blog/cusco/IMG_5551.jpg "Maras Salt Mine")](/assets/blog/cusco/IMG_5551.jpg)

We then got some free time to explore and taste some chocolates made with the salt before hopping back on the ATVs and heading to Laguna de Huaypo. We rode through the countryside and I had a smile on my face the whole time! The lagoon was huge and beautiful, and we got a discussion on a local legend of the lagoon before driving the ATVs back to the garage and then headed back to Cusco.

[![Gerrod and his beautiful smile in front of the lagoon](/assets/blog/cusco/IMG_5578.jpg "Gerrod and his beautiful smile in front of the lagoon")](/assets/blog/cusco/IMG_5578.jpg)

## Various other Cusco activities

We saw Mercado Central de San Pedro (San Pedro Market) during our free walking tour, and decided to come back to it later. The market was apparently designed by the person who designed the Eiffel Tower, but it wasn’t very obvious. The market was fairly large, and had all kinds of goods for cheap including clothes, candy, produce, meat, and meals, as long as you can haggle the places down from their foreigner prices. We bought coca candies for home, a magnet, earrings (because Lauren lost one of hers), and explored the market a bit. There were so many shops with all kinds of interesting things!

[![Mercado Central de San Pedro](/assets/blog/cusco/IMG_20181026_104449.jpg "Mercado Central de San Pedro")](/assets/blog/cusco/IMG_20181026_104449.jpg)

Our hostel owner in Lima suggested a restaurant in Cusco called La Cusqueñita. Gerrod and I were originally going to go there for dinner, but the walk was really sketchy and we decided to go there for lunch instead after we came across a pack of stray dogs blocking the sidewalk and saw a guy peeing on the sidewalk during our nighttime walk. The next day at lunch time the walk felt much safer. I got a delicious plate of pan-fried trout and a huge corn strawberry drink. I didn’t mean to order as large of drink as I got but oh well! Gerrod ordered a random dish of meats including guinea pig!

[![Our Peruvian lunch at La Cusqueñita](/assets/blog/cusco/IMG_20181105_131107.jpg "Our Peruvian lunch at La Cusqueñita")](/assets/blog/cusco/IMG_20181105_131107.jpg)

There were multiple performances during our meal with traditional Peruvian dances!

[![Performers at La Cusqueñita](/assets/blog/cusco/IMG_20181105_133458.jpg "Performers at La Cusqueñita")](/assets/blog/cusco/IMG_20181105_133458.jpg)

Other than hanging out and meeting some cool people at our hostel, that about sums up the rest of our Cusco adventure.

Love,

Lauren (and Gerrod)
]]></content:encoded>
            <author>bestseenonfoot@gmail.com (Lauren Schirtzinger)</author>
        </item>
        <item>
            <title><![CDATA[Machu Picchu and the End of the Trek]]></title>
            <link>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/machu-picchu-and-the-end-of-the-trek</link>
            <guid>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/machu-picchu-and-the-end-of-the-trek</guid>
            <pubDate>Sun, 04 Nov 2018 17:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
            <description><![CDATA[As the last day of our Salkantay Trek, we had the option of either hiking up to Machu Picchu at 4am, or waiting for a bus to take us to the top...]]></description>
            <content:encoded><![CDATA[
## Day 5 of Our Trek: Machu Picchu

As the last day of our Salkantay Trek, we had the option of either hiking up to Machu Picchu at 4am, or waiting for a bus to take us to the top. Since our entire group was exhausted, we all opted to take the bus to the top. So on Halloween we woke up at 3:15am to pack up our gear and check out of our hotel. 6 of us headed to the bus stop and were in line to catch the bus by 4 in the morning. Ramiro met up with us shortly after we got there with some fruit and sandwiches for breakfast. We waited in line for about an hour, and we were soon on a very nice bus to Machu Picchu!

The bus ride took about 30 minutes, and at the front gate there were tons of people waiting to get into Machu Picchu. We saw some people coming from the hiking path and they all looked miserable so I think we made a good decision in taking the bus. We waited in line at the front gate for about 15 minutes and we were soon entering Machu Picchu!

The initial view of Machu Picchu was… disappointing. Disappointing because it was raining and was incredibly foggy.

[![Very foggy view of Machu Picchu](/assets/blog/machu-picchu-and-the-end-of-the-trek/IMG_5390.jpg "Very foggy view of Machu Picchu")](/assets/blog/machu-picchu-and-the-end-of-the-trek/IMG_5390.jpg)

Our guide Ramiro took us on a tour around the facility and taught us all about Machu Picchu and some additional facts about the Inca culture, and after about an hour and a half some of the fog cleared and we could see how huge Machu Picchu truly was! There were vast terraces around the outside portions which were used for farming, and several buildings and temples throughout. Ramiro said that Machu Picchu would have housed around 100 to 500 people. After our 2 hour tour came to a close, Ramiro said goodbye and wished us luck in our upcoming hike to the top of Machu Picchu Mountain.

[![The fog cleared! But it was still raining](/assets/blog/machu-picchu-and-the-end-of-the-trek/PA310633.jpg "The fog cleared! But it was still raining")](/assets/blog/machu-picchu-and-the-end-of-the-trek/PA310633.jpg)

8 out of the 10 of us opted to hike Machu Picchu Mountain while the other two hiked Huayna Picchu Mountain. We weren’t allowed to begin the hike until 9am, and we had some time to kill so we explored Machu Picchu a bit with the couple from New Zealand. We walked up to the guard tower, which was literally identified as “the place where you take the classic Machu Picchu picture” and we had a bit of luck with the fog clearing! The views were outstanding, and we even saw some llamas!

[![Classic pic in front of Machu Picchu](/assets/blog/machu-picchu-and-the-end-of-the-trek/IMG_5439.jpg "Classic pic in front of Machu Picchu")](/assets/blog/machu-picchu-and-the-end-of-the-trek/IMG_5439.jpg)

## Machu Picchu Mountain

After taking some pictures, we began our last long hike up the mountain. The path to the top of Machu Picchu mountain consisted of 2,670 stairs that seemed to go on forever and ever.

[![The stairs that kept going...](/assets/blog/machu-picchu-and-the-end-of-the-trek/PA310670.jpg "The stairs that kept going...")](/assets/blog/machu-picchu-and-the-end-of-the-trek/PA310670.jpg)

We were very exhausted from the 4 prior days of hiking, and this hike seemed to be one of most challenging parts of our whole trek. Maybe it is because we didn’t have Ramiro with us, and we didn’t have any Inca power to power us to the top. After we got to the summit, the surrounding mountains were completely covered in clouds/fog. We waited at the summit with our group in hopes that the clouds would clear, but they never did.

[![Gerrod and the mountain view of Machu Picchu](/assets/blog/machu-picchu-and-the-end-of-the-trek/IMG_5458.jpg "Gerrod and the mountain view of Machu Picchu")](/assets/blog/machu-picchu-and-the-end-of-the-trek/IMG_5458.jpg)

The trek back down was also painful, but the llamas were very close to the trail at the bottom and we got to pet them, so that made up for the painful hike a bit. The llamas were incredibly fluffy, and I really like fluffy soft things. Our group originally told our guide Ramiro we were going to hike back to Aguas Calientes from Machu Picchu, but after our mountain hike we looked at each other and all agreed that we would rather take the bus back down. So we paid for a bus ticket and got on the bus back down to town to get some lunch. We were all starving, so we went to the first restaurant we came across.

[![Llama!](/assets/blog/machu-picchu-and-the-end-of-the-trek/IMG_5454.jpg "Llama!")](/assets/blog/machu-picchu-and-the-end-of-the-trek/IMG_5454.jpg)

## The Way Back to Cusco

After lunch, we grabbed our duffel bags that were stored at our hotel, went to happy hour for drinks, and headed to the train station to go back to Cusco. At the train station, there was an expert Peruvian flute player playing random songs which made the wait for the train much shorter. Gerrod gave him a tip, and then we boarded a very nice train that took us to a town called Ollantaytambo.

[![Train to Ollantaytambo](/assets/blog/machu-picchu-and-the-end-of-the-trek/IMG_20181031_171950.jpg "Train to Ollantaytambo")](/assets/blog/machu-picchu-and-the-end-of-the-trek/IMG_20181031_171950.jpg)

At Ollantaytambo, we found our van driver who drove us another 2 hours back to Cusco to drop us all off at our respective hostels. 4 of us, including me and Gerrod were dropped of at the Salkantay Trekking office since they stored our luggage for us during our trek. Since it was Halloween there were people everywhere and Plaza De Armas, which we had to cross to get to the office, was completely packed!

[![Packed streets for Halloween](/assets/blog/machu-picchu-and-the-end-of-the-trek/IMG_20181031_214525.jpg "Packed streets for Halloween")](/assets/blog/machu-picchu-and-the-end-of-the-trek/IMG_20181031_214525.jpg)

## Halloween Festivities

Gerrod and I pushed through the crowds with our bags, and we finally checked in to The Point Hostel, which being a party hostel appeared to have a party of its own going on. We quickly dropped our bags off, put on some fresh deodorant (at least I did, I’m not quite sure about Gerrod), and we headed to the Plaza to meet the other members of our group for Halloween celebrations! Gerrod and I decided we were dressed up as dirty hippies for Halloween, and we got offered weed twice on the way to the bar so we must have had pretty convincing costumes.

[![Dirty hippies!](/assets/blog/machu-picchu-and-the-end-of-the-trek/20181101_014751.jpg "Dirty hippies!")](/assets/blog/machu-picchu-and-the-end-of-the-trek/20181101_014751.jpg)

We met some of the group at Paddy’s Irish Pub, where we had drinks, food, and great conversations before we all decided we wanted to dance. The group ended up at a nightclub called Inka Team nearby in the Plaza de Armas, and danced and drank until around 2 am before saying our hug filled goodbyes.

We ended up with the best hiking group imaginable, and I truly hope we get to see everyone again!

[![Best group ever!](/assets/blog/machu-picchu-and-the-end-of-the-trek/IMG_5216.jpg "Best group ever!")](/assets/blog/machu-picchu-and-the-end-of-the-trek/IMG_5216.jpg)

Love,

Lauren (and Gerrod)
]]></content:encoded>
            <author>bestseenonfoot@gmail.com (Lauren Schirtzinger)</author>
        </item>
        <item>
            <title><![CDATA[Salkantay Trek with Salkantay Trekking!]]></title>
            <link>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/salkantay-trek-with-salkantay-trekking</link>
            <guid>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/salkantay-trek-with-salkantay-trekking</guid>
            <pubDate>Sat, 03 Nov 2018 17:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
            <description><![CDATA[The night before the trek we had a 6 o'clock briefing at the Salkantay Trekking office to explain everything, pay our final deposit, and sign waivers...]]></description>
            <content:encoded><![CDATA[
## Day 1 - Challacancha to Humantay Lake

The night before the trek we had a 6 o'clock briefing at the Salkantay Trekking office to explain everything, pay our final deposit, and sign waivers. There were ten of us total on our trek from various parts of the world. Our guide, Ramiro, also gave us small duffel bags to put the clothes and toiletries we needed for our trek. They also informed us that they would be picking us up from our hostel at 4am the following morning. Bleck.

The next morning, Gerrod and I woke up at 3am to get ready and checkout of our hostel while eating some leftover pizza from dinner the night before. The bus arrived very shortly after 4am, and we then got on the bus for the 4 hour ride that took us to our first stop, Mollepata Town. We were offered breakfast at a small restaurant in Mollepata Town, and I noticed the prices differed by 2 Soles for the same dishes depending on the Spanish versus English menu.

After breakfast we headed to the trail-head located in Challacancha. We gave our duffel bags to the crew so that could take them from camp to camp on pack horses, and began our hike. We could feel the altitude even at the first trek up, so the guide gave us some Inka power (coca leaves) to chew on while we walked.

[![Coca leaves handout](/assets/blog/salkantay-trek-with-salkantay-trekking/1.1.jpg "Coca leaves handout")](/assets/blog/salkantay-trek-with-salkantay-trekking/1.1.jpg)

To correctly use the coca leaves, our guide Ramiro told us to take “about 10 leaves”, and place a small amount of black colored catalyst made of stevia, ash, and mint, roll it up and place it in our cheek. After it gets all saturated with saliva, you chomp a little bit to release the juices, and place back in your cheek. We also picked out a rock that we would carry up the mountain for a ritual on the second day as an offering to Pachamama, AKA mother earth.

[![Us with our pachamama offering rocks](/assets/blog/salkantay-trek-with-salkantay-trekking/1.2.jpg "Us with our pachamama offering rocks")](/assets/blog/salkantay-trek-with-salkantay-trekking/1.2.jpg)

I managed to drop Gerrod's rock in a nearby aqueduct while going through his bag to grab some toilet paper to use the “Inka toilet”. Gerrod was somehow able to retrieve it through acrobatics that only one person witnessed, and he kept a much closer eye on it going forward.

[![Lauren scoping out an aqueduct to drop Gerrod's rock in](/assets/blog/salkantay-trek-with-salkantay-trekking/1.3.jpg "Lauren scoping out an aqueduct to drop Gerrod's rock in")](/assets/blog/salkantay-trek-with-salkantay-trekking/1.3.jpg)

After an initial climb, the walk was fairly nice all the way to our first camp. The first camp consisted of sky domes (glass igloos) with beds. We had some time to rest and have lunch before a round trip hike up to Humantay Lake.

[![Our sky domes](/assets/blog/salkantay-trek-with-salkantay-trekking/1.4.jpg "Our sky domes")](/assets/blog/salkantay-trek-with-salkantay-trekking/1.4.jpg)

The hike to Humantay Lake was very steep and slippery and we had to have more Inka power and take several breaks. We even got to hear and see some avalanches on a nearby mountain on the hike up. The lake was super blue!!

[![Us by Humantay lake](/assets/blog/salkantay-trek-with-salkantay-trekking/1.5.jpg "Us by Humantay lake")](/assets/blog/salkantay-trek-with-salkantay-trekking/1.5.jpg)

There was a bit of fog blocking the scenery, but our guide told us there was a small side path further up with a good viewpoint of the valley. The scenery was breathtaking, but it soon started to rain so we turned around and headed back to the sky domes. It rained for the ENTIRE walk back down, but luckily we had rain gear with us so we didn't get too wet.

[![Side valley](/assets/blog/salkantay-trek-with-salkantay-trekking/1.6.jpg "Side valley")](/assets/blog/salkantay-trek-with-salkantay-trekking/1.6.jpg)

We had an amazing dinner prepared by our very own group chef, and had a briefing for the next day. After dinner, we played cards with some of the other people on our trek before heading to bed. We went to bed around 8pm since we had a 4am wake up call the next morning. It rained all night so we did not get to star gaze from the domes, but we took some fun night-light pictures in our sky dome instead.

[![Fun night-light pictures](/assets/blog/salkantay-trek-with-salkantay-trekking/1.7.jpg "Fun night-light pictures")](/assets/blog/salkantay-trek-with-salkantay-trekking/1.7.jpg)

## Day 2 - Sky Domes through the Salkantay Pass

The following day, Ramiro woke us up at 4am as promised, but he handed us some nice warm coca tea which made it a little better. We packed up our stuff and went to eat some delicious breakfast before our hike. The second day of the trek was very long and was supposed to be the hardest due to the ascent and altitude, which made us a little nervous. We had the option to take a horse to the top of the Salkantay Pass, but our whole group decided to face the trek.

As we started along the path, we made a puppy friend who followed us until we made it to a hut in a valley where Gerrod paid 1 sole to poop in a hole in the ground.

[![Puppy!](/assets/blog/salkantay-trek-with-salkantay-trekking/2.1.jpg "Puppy!")](/assets/blog/salkantay-trek-with-salkantay-trekking/2.1.jpg)

After the puppy went back home, the trek got so much worse; steeper, rougher terrain, and no puppy! Luckily we had some fresh Inka power to power us to the top of the pass.

[![Walking uphill to Salkantay Pass](/assets/blog/salkantay-trek-with-salkantay-trekking/2.2.jpg "Walking uphill to Salkantay Pass")](/assets/blog/salkantay-trek-with-salkantay-trekking/2.2.jpg)

After what seemed like forever, we reached the summit at 4,650 meters above sea level! We could see glaciers on the mountains, and the views were beautiful.

Our guide then took us to a secret spot nearby where there was a brilliant turquoise lake. According to our guide, we could only go to the lake since we had extra time, and that is why we woke up so early!

[![Secret lake spot](/assets/blog/salkantay-trek-with-salkantay-trekking/2.4-1.jpg "Secret lake spot")](/assets/blog/salkantay-trek-with-salkantay-trekking/2.4-1.jpg)

At the lake we took a small break to have some sandwiches and coca tea. Our guide also taught us about the coca leaf and about the rock offering ritual to Pachamama. Afterwards, we all stacked our rocks that we picked up at the trail-head on the first day's hike as an offering to Pachamama. After the ritual, our guide gave us Salkantay t-shirts and we got a group photo before heading down the mountain to the next campsite.

[![Our Pachamama offering](/assets/blog/salkantay-trek-with-salkantay-trekking/2.5-1.jpg "Our Pachamama offering")](/assets/blog/salkantay-trek-with-salkantay-trekking/2.5-1.jpg)

The trek downhill seemed to last forever, but the landscape was changing which kept things interesting. After stopping to eat lunch, we continued further down into the upper part of the Amazon jungle, which our guide referred to as the cloud forest. The name cloud forest was very appropriate, as it was cloudy, foresty, and rainy.

[![Cloud forest](/assets/blog/salkantay-trek-with-salkantay-trekking/2.6-1.jpg "Cloud forest")](/assets/blog/salkantay-trek-with-salkantay-trekking/2.6-1.jpg)

After a very long downhill hike and trek around some mountains we finally ended the day at our next campsite, which were Andean huts with beds in them. I paid 20 soles for both of us to get hot showers. Gerrod was tempted to trade his shower in for beer, but I convinced him a shower would feel nice. After the shower, our group had some beers and ate a delicious dinner. After dinner we played cards and continued to drink some beers until bedtime around 8pm.

[![Andean Huts](/assets/blog/salkantay-trek-with-salkantay-trekking/2.7.jpg "Andean Huts")](/assets/blog/salkantay-trek-with-salkantay-trekking/2.7.jpg)

## Day 3 - More Hiking Followed by Ziplining and Hot Springs

The next morning began with another 4am coca tea wake up. We packed our bags, ate breakfast, and headed out on our hike. Our hike was mostly on the road due to recent landslides that made the original trail too dangerous, but the road still had wonderful views of the valley and forest. Ramiro taught us about the local flora, and we got to see wild banana and avocado trees along our trek.

[![Views of the valley from the road](/assets/blog/salkantay-trek-with-salkantay-trekking/3.1-1.jpg "Views of the valley from the road")](/assets/blog/salkantay-trek-with-salkantay-trekking/3.1-1.jpg)

On our way to our campsite, we stopped at a nearby town which had an organic coffee farm that Ramiro referred to as “Inca Starbucks”. There, we learned about the coffee harvesting and preparation process. We then got to roast our own beans in the traditional method, and even got to grind and taste it afterwards! It was absolutely delicious coffee.

[![Gerrod roasting coffee beans](/assets/blog/salkantay-trek-with-salkantay-trekking/IMG_20181029_112952.jpg "Gerrod roasting coffee beans")](/assets/blog/salkantay-trek-with-salkantay-trekking/IMG_20181029_112952.jpg)

After finishing up drinking our delicious coffee, we continued down our road to our jungle dome campsite. Following lunch, we had the rest of the day free with several optional activities. Our entire group wanted to go ziplining, so we hopped in a van, went across a very scary bridge, and headed to Vertikal Zip Line which has one of the longest courses in all of South America.

[![Zipline rope bridge](/assets/blog/salkantay-trek-with-salkantay-trekking/3.3-1.jpg "Zipline rope bridge")](/assets/blog/salkantay-trek-with-salkantay-trekking/3.3-1.jpg)

I know South Park says you should never go ziplining, but wow!! There was some rock climbing, a rope bridge, and 6 different lines where we could hang upside down or even fly like a Condor.

[![Lauren climbing rocks](/assets/blog/salkantay-trek-with-salkantay-trekking/3.4.jpg "Lauren climbing rocks")](/assets/blog/salkantay-trek-with-salkantay-trekking/3.4.jpg)

After that we got a well deserved break at Aguas Termales de Cocalmayo in the hot springs. The warm water felt amazing on our sore feet! After soaking for nearly an hour, we hopped back in the van and headed back to camp to eat another delicious meal. After dinner, we had another briefing and drank a few well deserved beverages before bed.

[![Hot springs!](/assets/blog/salkantay-trek-with-salkantay-trekking/3.5.jpg "Hot springs!")](/assets/blog/salkantay-trek-with-salkantay-trekking/3.5.jpg)

## Day 4 - The Longest Hike Ever

The next morning we had another early wake up call with Coca tea, and prepared for our day. Breakfast was the last meal to be prepared by our chefs, as we were spending the next night in a hotel in Aguas Calientes.

We headed out for the longest hike of the whole trek. We started with a surprisingly not so painful uphill, and got to stop at an amazing swing which only cost 1 sole on the way to the top.

[![Swing](/assets/blog/salkantay-trek-with-salkantay-trekking/4.1-1.jpg "Swing")](/assets/blog/salkantay-trek-with-salkantay-trekking/4.1-1.jpg)

The weather was perfect, and we soon reached the top, where we could see Machu Picchu far away in the distance!

[![Look there's a Machu Picchu](/assets/blog/salkantay-trek-with-salkantay-trekking/4.2-1.jpg "Look there's a Machu Picchu")](/assets/blog/salkantay-trek-with-salkantay-trekking/4.2-1.jpg)

There were some Inca ruins called Llactapata and Ramiro taught us more about Inca architecture. We ate some snacks and started with the longest, steepest, downhill hike we have ever done. It went on forever, and by the time we got to lunch at the bottom Gerrod's knee was dead. Our lunch at a small local restaurant was not nearly as filling or tasty now that we no longer had our chefs.

[![LLlactapata Inca Ruins](/assets/blog/salkantay-trek-with-salkantay-trekking/4.3.jpg "LLlactapata Inca Ruins")](/assets/blog/salkantay-trek-with-salkantay-trekking/4.3.jpg)

We hiked even further to Hidroelectric train station where we got some clean clothes out of our duffel bags to take with us to Aguas Calientes town so we could shower, change, and go to dinner. We had the option to take the train or walk, but Ramiro informed us that waiting on the train would take longer than walking. So, the entire group continued to walk along the tracks to town. There were many of us in pain and thought the long monotonous walk would never end. We finally made it to Aguas Calientes town and checked in to our hotel, Illary Inn.

[![The walk that would never end](/assets/blog/salkantay-trek-with-salkantay-trekking/4.5.jpg "The walk that would never end")](/assets/blog/salkantay-trek-with-salkantay-trekking/4.5.jpg)

The group all showered up and went to have a drink at Full House Peruvian Cuisine before heading to dinner at Machu Pisco. We were given all of the tickets we would need for tomorrow and a briefing of the plans for Machu Picchu the following day!

To be continued...

Love,

Lauren (and Gerrod)

Links to things we mentioned:

- [http://www.salkantaytrekking.com/trekking-in-peru/cusco/trekkingtomachupicchu-salkantay-llactapata-5days.html](http://www.salkantaytrekking.com/trekking-in-peru/cusco/trekkingtomachupicchu-salkantay-llactapata-5days.html)
- [http://vertikalzipline.com](http://vertikalzipline.com/)
- [http://munisantateresa.gob.pe/web/cocalmayo/](http://munisantateresa.gob.pe/web/cocalmayo/)
]]></content:encoded>
            <author>bestseenonfoot@gmail.com (Lauren Schirtzinger)</author>
        </item>
        <item>
            <title><![CDATA[Final Days in Ecuador]]></title>
            <link>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/final-days-in-ecuador</link>
            <guid>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/final-days-in-ecuador</guid>
            <pubDate>Thu, 01 Nov 2018 17:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
            <description><![CDATA[On Saturday after our Galapagos adventure, we went shopping for groceries in order to save some money for the rest of our days in Quito following our big splurge in the Galapagos...]]></description>
            <content:encoded><![CDATA[
## Quito and Basílica del Voto Nacional

[![Interior of Basílica del Voto Nacional](/assets/blog/final-days-in-ecuador/IMG_4688.JPG "Interior of Basílica del Voto Nacional")](/assets/blog/final-days-in-ecuador/IMG_4688.JPG)

On Saturday after our Galapagos adventure, we went shopping for groceries in order to save some money for the rest of our days in Quito following our big splurge in the Galapagos. We also stopped by a Farmacia to pick up some nasal decongestant, as Gerrod seemed to be getting a cold or something of that nature. We then headed down to the Basílica del Voto Nacional, a beautiful church in downtown Quito, to climb the tower and get a great view of the city. The church has been under construction for over 100 years, and according to the free walking tour we took in Quito prior to our Galapagos cruise, there is a popular belief saying that the day on which the Basilica is finished the world will end. The stairs to the top of the tower were very steep, and despite some scaffolding, the view of the city was stunning. We then walked from there to Calle La Ronda to see if we could go to the chocolate shop, but it was closed. With the disappointing discovery behind us we went to get lunch near were a gun was pulled on us not but a week ago. Before heading home we went by a local community/cultural center called Cumandá Urban Park. It had some interesting scenery complete with art exhibits, gym equipment, a pool, a rooftop herb garden, and a karate tournament.

[![Steep Stairs at Basílica del Voto Nacional](/assets/blog/final-days-in-ecuador/20181020_131150.jpg "Steep Stairs at Basílica del Voto Nacional")](/assets/blog/final-days-in-ecuador/20181020_131150.jpg)

[![Spires of Basílica del Voto Nacional](/assets/blog/final-days-in-ecuador/IMG_4709.JPG "Spires of Basílica del Voto Nacional")](/assets/blog/final-days-in-ecuador/IMG_4709.JPG)

## Quilotoa

[![Tiny bananas](/assets/blog/final-days-in-ecuador/20181021_091445.jpg "Tiny bananas")](/assets/blog/final-days-in-ecuador/20181021_091445.jpg)

On Sunday, we had an early morning waking up at 6 am to catch the bus from Q restaurant in Plaza Foch. After hopping on the bus and picking up other people on the tour, we headed out to the Pan American highway. Along the highway there was a beautiful volcano, and Gerrod asked me if I though it was Cotopaxi, and I insisted it wasn’t. Approximately 6.47 seconds later our guide announced that we were taking a quick stop to take pictures of a very beautiful and visible Cotopaxi. Oops, sorry Gerrod. Next we headed for Pujili marketplace, a Ecuadorian market where we wandered around and bought some mini bananas (cute!) for less than 1 US dollar. We then hopped back on the bus and headed to a local native highland family that only really spoke Quechua. We learned a little about their lifestyle, food (potatoes and beans mostly), and the hut itself, and we donated the bananas we bought as a thanks for the visit. Next we headed for Quilotoa! We started from the top of the rim and hiked down into the caldera and sat by the lake, which now fills what used to be the active caldera before it collapsed in on itself, to eat some snacks. Then we started the trek back to the top. It was really tough to hike back up due to the altitude, and it had a much worse effect on me this time compared to Cotopaxi. After eating lunch, we headed back to our hostel in Quito. At our hostel, we met a Finnish guy who had just finished hiking around the entire rim of Quilotoa and had been traveling for 5 years straight. His thoughts on Finland and most of Scandinavia were very similar to that of another Finnish guy Gerrod met in Japan; there is nothing to do there.

[![Lauren at the caldera lake of Quilotoa](/assets/blog/final-days-in-ecuador/IMG_4749.JPG "Lauren at the caldera lake of Quilotoa")](/assets/blog/final-days-in-ecuador/IMG_4749.JPG)

[![View from the rim of Quilotoa](/assets/blog/final-days-in-ecuador/IMG_4774.JPG "View from the rim of Quilotoa")](/assets/blog/final-days-in-ecuador/IMG_4774.JPG)

## Changing of the Guard and Chocolate

[![Changing of the guard](/assets/blog/final-days-in-ecuador/IMG_4795.JPG "Changing of the guard")](/assets/blog/final-days-in-ecuador/IMG_4795.JPG)

On Monday, we headed out to Plaza Grande to go see the changing of the the guard at the presidential palace. The changing of the guards started promptly at 11am with kind of depressing almost oppressive marching band music. There were many protesters and tourists throughout Plaza Grande for the event, and we even saw a guy get kicked out by the riot police. We then went back to the chocolate shop, Chez Tiff, and it was open! Chez Tiff is an artisanal chocolatier, and we got to taste many different chocolates and even bought a few. Although we initially misunderstood the person working the cash register, we eventually figured out how to get a lecture on the history of cocoa beans and chocolate. Although the presentation was in Spanish, it was very informative, and we got to taste a raw chocolate bean, which was very fruity! In the evening, we relaxed in our hostel and stayed up with the guy from Finland until 2am!

[![Lauren found the chocolate!](/assets/blog/final-days-in-ecuador/IMG_20181022_115526.jpg "Lauren found the chocolate!")](/assets/blog/final-days-in-ecuador/IMG_20181022_115526.jpg)

## Quito Botanical Gardens

[![Vibrant Orchid](/assets/blog/final-days-in-ecuador/IMG_4873.JPG "Vibrant Orchid")](/assets/blog/final-days-in-ecuador/IMG_4873.JPG)

On Tuesday, we slept in following our late night, and decided to go to the Quito Botanical Gardens, which were only about half an hour walk north of the hostel. There are several parks throughout Quito, and we got to walk through Carolina Park on our way to the gardens. The botanical gardens cost us $3.50 each, but it was well worth the money. The gardens were massive and had many different exhibits and quite a bit of wildlife throughout. They had a very impressive exhibit on native orchids in Ecuador, and I got to practice my macro photography skills. There was even a Japanese garden and bonsai trees! I am so happy to have my cameras back!

[![More Orchids!](/assets/blog/final-days-in-ecuador/IMG_4940.JPG "More Orchids!")](/assets/blog/final-days-in-ecuador/IMG_4940.JPG)

[![Lauren in the garden](/assets/blog/final-days-in-ecuador/IMG_20181023_113043.jpg "Lauren in the garden")](/assets/blog/final-days-in-ecuador/IMG_20181023_113043.jpg)

## Quito to Lima

On our last day in Quito, we checked out of the hostel and left our stuff in the lobby while we visited Contemporary Art Center of Quito (Centro de Arte Contemporáneo de Quito) to kill some time until we had to leave. The art center is free, and had quite a few exhibits. I like art, but they had some pretty alternative art exhibits and all of the tags were in Spanish. I kept using Google translate in an attempt to properly interpret the art, but for some of the pieces it didn’t help much.

[![Gerrod being art](/assets/blog/final-days-in-ecuador/20181024_123047.jpg "Gerrod being art")](/assets/blog/final-days-in-ecuador/20181024_123047.jpg)

We had a smooth Uber ride to the Quito airport and then got to hang in a VIP lounge prior to our flight to Lima thanks to our travel credit card.

There is still a lot to see in Ecuador, and maybe one day we can return!

Love,

Lauren (and Gerrod)
]]></content:encoded>
            <author>bestseenonfoot@gmail.com (Lauren Schirtzinger)</author>
        </item>
        <item>
            <title><![CDATA[Galapagos Part 2: The Main Island]]></title>
            <link>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/galapagos-part-2-the-main-island</link>
            <guid>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/galapagos-part-2-the-main-island</guid>
            <pubDate>Fri, 26 Oct 2018 17:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
            <description><![CDATA[Following our goodbyes, Gerrod and I retrieved our bags from the pier and headed towards our hostel...]]></description>
            <content:encoded><![CDATA[
Following our goodbyes, Gerrod and I retrieved our bags from the pier and headed towards our hostel, Hostal Vista Al Mar. It was too early to check in, so we left our bags and headed to go to dive shops to look into diving the next day. There are so many dive shops and they were all similarly priced (two dives for $170 dollars, which is quite expensive), so it was difficult to choose which one to book with! We ended up booking two dives for Wednesday with Academy Bay Diving based on a recommendation from a friend, and tons of positive online reviews. After booking our dive for the next day, we headed back to our hostel to go to our room and sort our clothes so we could do laundry. The laundry service was a drop off type deal where they weighed your clothes and you paid based on how much your clothes weighed. The remainder of our Tuesday consisted of relaxing and organizing our clothes after we retrieve them from the “lavandería”.

## Diving North Seymour Canal and Mosquera South

We woke up the next morning, bought some fresh made bread from a local bread shop, and headed to the dive shop! The dive shop had everything put together, so we just hopped in one of the pick-up trucks and headed to the ferry on the northern side of the island to get on the dive boat. We got to see a lot more of the island on the drive over, and it was much greener than the islands we had seen on our cruise.

After we got on the dive boat, they rode to North Seymour island where we were debriefed on the plan for the day. Since Gerrod, me, and another girl on the dive tour had less than 30 dives, the divemaster made us hop into the water pre dive and double check some of our skills. After checking our dive skills, we got back on the boat and headed to Mosquera Island. We had been to the island during our cruise, and it was interesting to see it from land, snorkel, AND diving! As soon as we got in the water, we saw a school of rays! The water was pretty murky but we still got to see rays, a shark, turtles, garden eels, and tons of starfish. After finishing our dive, we got back on the boat and were provided with lunch. After lunch we headed to North Seymour Canal for our second dive. This time as soon as we got in the water, we saw a hammerhead shark! I wish we got to see it up close, but It was cool to see anyways. North Seymour had tons of schools of fish, eagle rays, and whitetip reef sharks. The sensation of being underwater will never cease to amaze me.

[![Lauren and Gerrod on the dive boat](/assets/blog/galapagos-part-2-the-main-island/PA170010.jpg "Lauren and Gerrod on the dive boat")](/assets/blog/galapagos-part-2-the-main-island/PA170010.jpg)

[![Lauren and Gerrod under the water](/assets/blog/galapagos-part-2-the-main-island/PA170022.jpg "Lauren and Gerrod under the water")](/assets/blog/galapagos-part-2-the-main-island/PA170022.jpg)

[![Garden Eel!](/assets/blog/galapagos-part-2-the-main-island/PA170096.jpg "Garden Eel!")](/assets/blog/galapagos-part-2-the-main-island/PA170096.jpg)

[![Fish!](/assets/blog/galapagos-part-2-the-main-island/PA170140.jpg "Fish!")](/assets/blog/galapagos-part-2-the-main-island/PA170140.jpg)

## Tortuga Bay

Following our dive, we headed back to Puerto Ayora. It was only 2pm, so Gerrod and I decided to walk to Tortuga Bay, a beach our hostel owner recommended to us. The walk to about 30-45 minutes, and most of it was a nice pedestrian only walking path. The beach was gorgeous!! White sand, and not very steep at all! The waves were really rough, and there were signs everywhere indicating not to swim in the water. We ran into the Australian couple from our cruise on the beach, and they said that there was one lone surfer braving the rough waves. Gerrod and I took a stroll down the beach, and noted several washed up jellyfish and a sea turtle nest!!!! At the end of the beach there was a segment that turned off to the right where there was a white sand cove beach with calm water. I decided to take a swim, but Gerrod was too chicken because he was dry. Following our beach walk we went to the grocery store to buy food in an attempt to save some money. I had a high quality meal of a can of beans for dinner, and Gerrod ate a ham sandwich and some of my beans.

[![Tortuga Bay boardwalk](/assets/blog/galapagos-part-2-the-main-island/IMG_20181017_153012.jpg "Tortuga Bay boardwalk")](/assets/blog/galapagos-part-2-the-main-island/IMG_20181017_153012.jpg)

[![Tortuga Bay beach](/assets/blog/galapagos-part-2-the-main-island/IMG_20181017_154206.jpg "Tortuga Bay beach")](/assets/blog/galapagos-part-2-the-main-island/IMG_20181017_154206.jpg)

[![Lauren hanging out with an iguana](/assets/blog/galapagos-part-2-the-main-island/IMG_20181017_154441.jpg "Lauren hanging out with an iguana")](/assets/blog/galapagos-part-2-the-main-island/IMG_20181017_154441.jpg)

## Coffee, Lava Tunnels, Birthday Dinner

The next morning we slept in, as it was GERROD’S BIRTHDAY! After breakfast, we headed to a fancy coffee shop in town that we had previously passed called 1835 Coffee Lab. We both got a Galapagos Blend bean in different preparations methods. It was really cool to compare the the french press with something called the clever. The coffee was delicious.

[![Enjoying coffee](/assets/blog/galapagos-part-2-the-main-island/20181018_094556.jpg "Enjoying coffee")](/assets/blog/galapagos-part-2-the-main-island/20181018_094556.jpg)

Our hostel had bikes that we were allowed to use for free, so we decided to take the bikes to the lava tunnels. Our hostel owner indicated biking to them would suck a lot because it was all uphill and he showed us on a map where to take a local bus that you could bring a bike. He showed us how to bike to more low-key place to see lava tunnels within a giant tortoise reserve called Reserva El Chato from the bus stop in a small town called Santa Rosa. We grabbed the local bus, and followed the directions our hostel owner gave us. We got to a fork in the road, and I insisted our hostel owner said to go to the left, but there was a sign indicating the tortoise reserve and tunnels were to the right. We followed the signs directions and headed down the gravel path. It was mostly downhill, and we saw several giant tortoises during our ride. When we got to the end of the road, there was a restaurant... and no tunnels. So we argued a bit and then started walking our bikes back up the hill towards the fork in the road. Our bikes would not shift gears at all, and the air was a little low so it was very difficult to bike up the hills! We finally got back to the fork in the road and headed to the left. We got stopped by a guy who said something in spanish about the cost being 5 dollars a person for the giant tortoise reserve. We were pretty low on cash, so we asked him if the tunnels were this way, and he indicated yes they were! We decided to only see the tunnels since we couldn’t afford the reserve. We got to the tunnels, and ran into the girl from the Netherlands from our cruise! The tunnels were awesome, and were well lit. After we walked through the tunnels, we headed back towards our hostel. The guard stopped us again, and apparently we misinterpreted what he said, because the tunnels were included with the price of the reserve... Oops. We gave him all the cash we had ($6), and rode the mostly downhill, 20km trek back to Puerto Ayora.

[![Tortoise](/assets/blog/galapagos-part-2-the-main-island/20181018_120307-EFFECTS.jpg "Tortoise")](/assets/blog/galapagos-part-2-the-main-island/20181018_120307-EFFECTS.jpg)

[![Lava tunnels](/assets/blog/galapagos-part-2-the-main-island/20181018_122522.jpg "Lava tunnels")](/assets/blog/galapagos-part-2-the-main-island/20181018_122522.jpg)

[![Lauren squeezing through the lava tunnels](/assets/blog/galapagos-part-2-the-main-island/IMG_20181018_123223.jpg "Lauren squeezing through the lava tunnels")](/assets/blog/galapagos-part-2-the-main-island/IMG_20181018_123223.jpg)

Following our bike ride, we relaxed until dinner time, and then headed to Charles Binford Avenue, where there are tons of local kiosks with fresh seafood. During the day, there are cars driving along the road, but at night the kiosks set up long tables in the middle of the street and there are people everywhere! We had a lobster dinner for two (only $20!), with a few mojitos, and ice cream. After dinner, we went to a local bar call Bongo Bar, which we had heard from tons of people that it is the hip cool bar. The girl from Holland and her friend from Germany met up with us and there was live music. I was convinced to get up on stage and sing in front of everyone after the bar owner tried to get Gerrod to sing. Following drinks, we went to the pier where we saw baby sharks swimming in the water!

[![Lobster dinner for two](/assets/blog/galapagos-part-2-the-main-island/IMG_20181018_183801.jpg "Lobster dinner for two")](/assets/blog/galapagos-part-2-the-main-island/IMG_20181018_183801.jpg)

We were both very sad to leave the Galapagos next day. There are truly stunning, and you could spend years on the islands before you truly saw everything. Hopefully one day, we can make a return trip!

Love,

Lauren (and Gerrod)

Some links to stuff for fun:

- [https://academybaydiving.com/](https://academybaydiving.com/)
- [http://1835coffeelabec.com/](http://1835coffeelabec.com/)
]]></content:encoded>
            <author>bestseenonfoot@gmail.com (Lauren Schirtzinger)</author>
        </item>
        <item>
            <title><![CDATA[Galapagos Part 1: The Cruise!]]></title>
            <link>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/galapagos-part-1-the-cruise</link>
            <guid>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/galapagos-part-1-the-cruise</guid>
            <pubDate>Tue, 23 Oct 2018 17:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
            <description><![CDATA[Sorry for the delayed post. As it turns out I never really feel like writing, but I will try my best to be better...]]></description>
            <content:encoded><![CDATA[
Sorry for the delayed post. As it turns out I never really feel like writing, but I will try my best to be better.

Our Galapagos adventure started out as every good adventure does, with me crying at 5am in the airport. Wait, what?

I have never been good at keeping track of things, and my mom always told me growing up that I would lose my head if it wasn’t attached to my body. So I was expecting that I would eventually lose something along the road. However, when I arrived to the airport and realized my backpack filled with my DSLR camera, waterproof camera, snorkel mask, swimsuit, sandals, and laptop was in fact not in my possession I panicked. I realize things can be replaced, but I love nature and outdoor photography and the thought that I wouldn’t get to take any photos in the Galapagos, which has been a nerdy dream destination of mine for a long time I was heartbroken. Fortunately after Gerrod calmed me down and we had a group brainstorm session as to where I could have left my backpack (and called our Uber driver 10 times to see if I left it in his car) we realized I must have left it in our amazing hostel. We messaged the hostel owner, and after about an hour of painful waiting, she responded and told us my backpack was there, and in tact! Score! Although I was still heartbroken I wouldn’t be able to take any photos, my tears quickly turned into excitement as I knew we were about to go to one of the most amazing places on Earth!

[![Galapagos outside of the window of the plane](/assets/blog/galapagos-part-1-the-cruise/2.jpg "Galapagos outside of the window of the plane")](/assets/blog/galapagos-part-1-the-cruise/2.jpg)

As I discussed in my first post, we booked a 5 day cruise on the Golondrina Yacht, one of the yachts belonging to Tierra Verde Tours, and the travel agency, Happy Gringo, booked all of our flights for us. Our departing flight was delayed for about 2 hours, which is apparently very typical for flights to Baltra Island. I spent most of this time awaiting a response from our hostel owner to determine the fate of my possessions. The flight went very smoothly after we finally took off, and we were soon landing on Baltra Island! During the small stop we had in Guayaquil, as other passengers transferred, we actually met a couple who would be joining us on the cruise since they had called the agency to let them know we would be late and they were told to look for two siblings on the same flight as them. This is actually the second time the sibling thing has happened since in South America it is not as common to share your spouse's last name. After we landed and walked across the runway, we had to wait for a very cute dog to smell our checked bags to check for seeds and produce, which you are not allowed to bring onto the island before we could retrieve them.

After grabbing our bags, we exited the airport and there was a guy with a sign, which made me feel very fancy. I went to a small shop outside the airport to purchase a swimsuit since I stupidly forgot my bag, and found a cute one that appeared to fit immediately! We then hopped on a bus and headed to our yacht! After taking a small “dinghy” boat to our yacht, we got a room assignments and had a briefing and introduction to the other people on our cruise. All of the rooms on the yacht had dope bunk beds. There were 11 people total on our cruise, and they are all amazing people. Our group was diverse, with a couple from France, a couple from Australia, a couple from New York City, a couple, whom we had met on the plane earlier, from Massachusetts (but the woman was originally from Argentina), and a woman from Netherlands. I may be biased, but I think we were probably the best group ever. After eating lunch and changing into our swimsuits we began our Day 1 activities!

[![Bunks on the boat](/assets/blog/galapagos-part-1-the-cruise/3.jpg "Bunks on the boat")](/assets/blog/galapagos-part-1-the-cruise/3.jpg)

## Day 1: Mosquera Island

We hopped onto dinghy boats and headed towards Mosquera Island! The island was very small with white sand, volcanic rocks, and TONS OF SEA LIONS! Our naturalist guide, Roberto, discussed all the various wildlife we saw and answered all of our questions. I had never seen sea lions before so I was very excited. They are very sociable, and even walk towards you. A rule in the Galapagos is that you must maintain 2 meters distance from the wildlife, and we had to run away from the sea lions at times to avoid them. We then got a chance to snorkel off of the island. Gerrod was very eager to snorkel because he wanted to swim with the sea lions. The water was pretty murky, but there were still lots of fish to see! However, despite seeing many sea lions on shore, we did not see any while snorkeling. After finish up snorkeling, we headed back to the boat to eat dinner and enjoy the evening. Gerrod and I stayed up late and star gazed and all I can say is WOW!

[![Lauren hanging with sea lions](/assets/blog/galapagos-part-1-the-cruise/4.jpg "Lauren hanging with sea lions")](/assets/blog/galapagos-part-1-the-cruise/4.jpg)

## Day 2: Isabela Island and Fernandina Island

[![Dinghy into the cave](/assets/blog/galapagos-part-1-the-cruise/5.jpg "Dinghy into the cave")](/assets/blog/galapagos-part-1-the-cruise/5.jpg)

After breakfast, we all hopped on the dinghy boats and headed to visit to Vicente Roca Point on Isabela Island. The scenery was absolutely stunning, and we got to take the boats into a cave. Roberto discussed everything we were seeing, including pelicans, Galapagos fur seal, Galapagos penguins, blue-footed boobies, marine iguanas, and flightless cormorants. Oh and TONS OF SEA TURTLES!!! After the dinghy boat ride we suited up for snorkeling and got to swim with the sea turtles and penguins!! The penguins were super fast and if you blinked you wouldn’t have even seen them. It was also cool to see the flightless cormorants swimming next to you. The sea turtles were everywhere!!!! It was almost impossible to not see a sea turtle everywhere you looked and it was even harder to follow the 2 meter rule as they would swim right up next to you all the time! After snorkeling, we had lunch and headed to Espinoza Point on Fernandina Island. There we got to snorkel with the marine iguanas, tons and tons of fish, another penguin, and even more sea turtles. It was so difficult to not bump into the sea turtles there were so many which is like my dream as they are my favorite animal. We didn’t see any sea lions unfortunately and Gerrod was bummed. After the snorkeling excursion, we changed and headed to land. There, we walked across lava flows and saw a huge colony of marine iguanas. They cuddle up in a pile to keep warm, and they blend in with the lava flows so well it is really hard not to step on them! We saw even more sea lions, including babies which were super cute. After the hike we headed back to the boat for dinner and hanging out with the others on our cruise. The top of the boat was our hangout spot, and it ended up being a good location for wildlife viewing as well, as we spotted whales while sailing between islands!

[![Sea turtle!](/assets/blog/galapagos-part-1-the-cruise/6.jpg "Sea turtle!")](/assets/blog/galapagos-part-1-the-cruise/6.jpg)

[![Marine Iguanas!](/assets/blog/galapagos-part-1-the-cruise/7.jpg "Marine Iguanas!")](/assets/blog/galapagos-part-1-the-cruise/7.jpg)

[![Real big sea lions](/assets/blog/galapagos-part-1-the-cruise/8.jpg "Real big sea lions")](/assets/blog/galapagos-part-1-the-cruise/8.jpg)

## Day 3: Isabela Island (Urbina Bay)

[![Land iguana](/assets/blog/galapagos-part-1-the-cruise/9.jpg "Land iguana")](/assets/blog/galapagos-part-1-the-cruise/9.jpg)

After breakfast, we headed to Urbina Bay for a hike and more snorkeling. There, we saw land iguanas (which are different from the marine iguanas) and some giant tortoises! The land iguanas were everywhere! The giant tortoises were…giant and didn’t move very much. Roberto gave us tons of information on the iguanas, tortoises, plants, hawks, finches, rocks, etc… He was incredibly knowledgeable which was something that was important to me when booking the cruise so WOOHOO! After the hike, some of us snorkeled along the shoreline. The water was COLD, but we had seen sea lions swimming in the water on our dinghy boat ride and we had yet to swim with the sea lions. Gerrod and I, and two of the other people on our cruise were peaking above the water to see the sea lion pop out, and then swimming directly towards it. After what seemed like forever, it swam right towards us and zoomed past!!! YAY!! After that we explored the coastline and saw EVEN MORE SEA TURTLES! We then headed back to the boat for lunch and headed towards Tagus Cove on Isabela Island for a hike to Darwin Lake. Darwin Lake is a round salt water crater surrounded by Palo Santo trees which smell just like Catholic church incense. The views were beautiful, but it was very sunny and I am very pale so I did my best to cover up and not burn up into a crisp. After the hike we did yet again more snorkeling and saw more penguins, flightless cormorants, crabs, puffer fish, crabs. After snorkeling we had dinner and some of us hung out on the top of the boat for some star-gazing and group bonding.

[![Swimming with sea lions](/assets/blog/galapagos-part-1-the-cruise/10.jpg "Swimming with sea lions")](/assets/blog/galapagos-part-1-the-cruise/10.jpg)

[![Darwin Lake](/assets/blog/galapagos-part-1-the-cruise/11.jpg "Darwin Lake")](/assets/blog/galapagos-part-1-the-cruise/11.jpg)

## Day 4: Santiago Island: Egas Port and Chinese Hat

[![Walking on the rocks of Santiago Island](/assets/blog/galapagos-part-1-the-cruise/12.jpg "Walking on the rocks of Santiago Island")](/assets/blog/galapagos-part-1-the-cruise/12.jpg)

After breakfast we headed to Egas Port on Santiago Island. Right after we landed, our guide noticed that there was a sea lion that had just given birth!!! The placenta was still hanging out of the mommy sea lion and the baby was crying. There were hawks sitting above the sea lions and we thought that they were trying to eat the pup. Roberto informed us that the hawks eat the placenta and were NOT trying to eat the baby. WHEW! The walk was beautiful and we all went at a very casual pace, taking time to take lots of photos and having fun together. We saw even more sea lions, crabs, hawks, fur seals, finches, marine iguanas… seems like we may get sick of seeing the same things but it was fun getting so close to the animals and observing them in their natural habitats. We noticed some interesting looking “shells”. I asked Roberto about them and he said they were bits of dead sea urchins, but they looked a bit like titties. Of course I showed everyone else in our group, and without even me saying, everyone also thought they looked like tits. After our hike, we did more snorkeling off of the beach. It seemed like every day the snorkeling was getting better and better, and oddly enough the water was getting colder and colder as well. Immediately after I hopped in the water I saw a huge shark! Awesome! Our guide Roberto was very good at free diving and would dive down to check for sharks in caves. We saw many whitetip reef sharks, an eagle ray, so many fish, an eel, and got to swim with the sea lions again! Gerrod and I and the couple from France were some of the last people out of the water, and one of the sea lions swam right up next to us in the shallow water! It was so amazing seeing it swim so up close. After lunch, we headed to Sombrero Chino (Chinese Hat) for a quick hike and got to see even more animals and lava tunnels. We then did some snorkeling around Chinese Hat, and they definitely saved the best for last. We saw a cave full of sleeping whitetip reef sharks, got to go right up next to a penguin, and swam in a lava cave. Just wow. I am stunned at the beauty of the Galapagos.

[![Taking cute pictures on the rocks](/assets/blog/galapagos-part-1-the-cruise/13.jpg "Taking cute pictures on the rocks")](/assets/blog/galapagos-part-1-the-cruise/13.jpg)

[![Dead 'Titty' Urchins](/assets/blog/galapagos-part-1-the-cruise/14.jpg "Dead 'Titty' Urchins")](/assets/blog/galapagos-part-1-the-cruise/14.jpg)

[![Beach on Santiago Island](/assets/blog/galapagos-part-1-the-cruise/15.jpg "Beach on Santiago Island")](/assets/blog/galapagos-part-1-the-cruise/15.jpg)

[![Whitetip reef sharks](/assets/blog/galapagos-part-1-the-cruise/16.jpg "Whitetip reef sharks")](/assets/blog/galapagos-part-1-the-cruise/16.jpg)

[![Chillin' with a penguin](/assets/blog/galapagos-part-1-the-cruise/17.jpg "Chillin' with a penguin")](/assets/blog/galapagos-part-1-the-cruise/17.jpg)

## Day 5: Goodbyes and the Charles Darwin Research Center

[![Tortoise breeding program tortoises](/assets/blog/galapagos-part-1-the-cruise/18.jpg "Tortoise breeding program tortoises")](/assets/blog/galapagos-part-1-the-cruise/18.jpg)

On the last day we were all a little bummed as we had grown close over the last 5 days. In the morning we packed up our gear, ate breakfast, and headed to Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz Island. We all walked together to the Charles Darwin Research Center to learn about the Galapagos giant tortoise breeding program. We got to see the remains of Lonesome George who had passed only a few years ago who we learned was originally not breeding, hence the name, as he was being overfed and therefore too heavy to get it on! There was one saddleback giant tortoise originally from the San Diego Zoo that had fathered over 800 babies earning him the name Super Diego, and he looked very content. The research center was very interesting and had a lot of interesting displays on the fauna and flora of the Galapagos. After our visit, we all said our goodbyes and went our separate ways. Some of our group members were hopping on another boat to continue cruising, many of us were staying in Puerto Ayora, and one couple were headed to Baltra Island for the airport. I think one of the hardest parts of traveling is meeting such amazing people and constantly having to part ways with them. But I think in the end both Gerrod and I feel lucky to meet so many people to begin with, and experience such amazing places with them. The Galapagos Islands are truly a sight to see.

To be continued...

[![Gerrod as FitzRoy](/assets/blog/galapagos-part-1-the-cruise/20-19.jpg "Gerrod as FitzRoy")](/assets/blog/galapagos-part-1-the-cruise/20-19.jpg)

[![Lauren as Darwin](/assets/blog/galapagos-part-1-the-cruise/202F19.jpg "Lauren as Darwin")](/assets/blog/galapagos-part-1-the-cruise/202F19.jpg)

Love,

Lauren (and Gerrod)
]]></content:encoded>
            <author>bestseenonfoot@gmail.com (Lauren Schirtzinger)</author>
        </item>
        <item>
            <title><![CDATA[Ecuador - Quito and Cotopaxi]]></title>
            <link>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/ecuador-quito-and-cotopaxi</link>
            <guid>https://www.bestseenonfoot.com/posts/ecuador-quito-and-cotopaxi</guid>
            <pubDate>Thu, 11 Oct 2018 12:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
            <description><![CDATA[A lot has happened since arriving in Ecuador on Sunday! We arrived in Quito with no problems, and just as we normally do when we arrive in a country...]]></description>
            <content:encoded><![CDATA[
A lot has happened since arriving in Ecuador on Sunday! We arrived in Quito with no problems, and just as we normally do when we arrive in a country, we headed to the ATM to get out local currency. As it turns out, Ecuador uses USD which really shows you how much research we did before we arrived! We picked up a taxi outside of the airport with no issues and started on the very rainy, ~45 minute ride to our hostel (Hostal Casa Urbana).

On Monday we got ready to head out and attempt to book a last-minute cruise in the Galapagos at local travel agencies and explore Quito, but quickly saw that many restaurants and business were closed! We were very confused, and after talking to our amazing hostel owner Carolina, we found out that most people had the day off as it was a national holiday! After it started raining fairly hard, we decided to use the day to plan/book more things, e-mail places for cruises, and work on getting this blog up and running.

On Tuesday we went on a free walking tour with “Free Walking Tour Ecuador”. We met up with a guy named Ovidio at Plaza Foch and he showed us how to use the buses and took us to Old Town to meet up with the rest of the group. We went around with our guide Romulo and he told us a lot of interesting information about Ecuador and Quito and gave us many suggestions for restaurants and things to try. He showed us a place to eat almuerzo which was only $2.25 for A TON of food.

[![View from top of Museo Metropolitano looking towards Plaza Grande on Walking Tour](/assets/blog/ecuador-quito-and-cotopaxi/IMG_4587.jpg "View from top of Museo Metropolitano looking towards Plaza Grande on Walking Tour")](/assets/blog/ecuador-quito-and-cotopaxi/IMG_4587.jpg)

Then we went to the Happy Gringo office via bus to meet with Jonathan about an amazing discounted last-minute Galapagos cruise he e-mailed us about. It was a little difficult to find but people on the street seemed to know what we were looking for and gave us directions. Knowing some Spanish is VERY USEFUL, especially in restaurants and when asking for directions. Jonathan was very useful and had AMAZING English and answered any questions we had about the cruise. He even booked our return flights a few days later and arranged for us to be dropped of in Puerto Ayora so we could stay on the islands for a few extra days to hopefully scuba dive. We then came back to the hostel to grab some coffee/tea and then hopped on the bus to go to La Ronda to meet up with an Australian couple and an awesome surgeon from L.A. that we met on the free walking tour.

[![Calle La Ronda](/assets/blog/ecuador-quito-and-cotopaxi/IMG_4615.jpg "Calle La Ronda")](/assets/blog/ecuador-quito-and-cotopaxi/IMG_4615.jpg)

We went to a restaurant called Leña Quiteña for dinner/drinks and tried an alcoholic drink called canelazo which was delicious but very strong. I can easily imagine how you could have a very good time after a few cups of canelazo, but since Gerrod and I are responsible adults we stuck to just 1 (or 2). The Australian couple said they were doing a hiking/biking Cotopaxi tour the next morning and said if we didn’t have anything going on we should join. So we went to their hostel “Masaya Hostel Quito” with them and booked the tour last-minute! We didn’t even know what company it was with but figured it would still be great. On our way back to our hostel, we decided to walk to the bus stop to see if they were still running. A guy started harassing us and blocked our way so we started walking towards a group of taxis and then the guy FLASHED A GUN AT US!! We were terrified and quickly hopped into a taxi. Our driver took us straight to our hostel and charged us more than we expected, but we were glad to be safe. We decided to take Ubers from here on out at night following that terrifying mess. We are very lucky nothing bad happened.

Wednesday morning we took an early AM Uber to the Hostel Masaya where we booked the tour to Cotopaxi. There was a van waiting there so we hopped on and the Australian couple met up with us. Then the van went all the way back to Plaza Foch to pick up some more people for the tour, which was very near our hostel! That’s what we get for booking the tour so last-minute. They provided breakfast and gave us interesting information about the volcanoes and the Chaupi people. The views on the way to the start of the trail were amazing! We both could definitely feel the altitude getting to us, so we bought some coca candies as recommended by our guide Victor (P.S. coca candies are made from the same plant that is used to make cocaine! But they definitely seemed to help with the altitude sickness). We arrived at the Cotopaxi car park and started our trek up.

[![Lauren making Gerrod take a cute photo while hiking up Cotopaxi](/assets/blog/ecuador-quito-and-cotopaxi/IMG_4638.jpg "Lauren making Gerrod take a cute photo while hiking up Cotopaxi")](/assets/blog/ecuador-quito-and-cotopaxi/IMG_4638.jpg)

The trail was covered in snow and it was VERY FOGGY, but it was still cool to hike up to Refugio Cotopaxi. The way up was very slow, but due to the altitude sickness we found ourselves very winded the entire time.

[![So snowy and foggy!](/assets/blog/ecuador-quito-and-cotopaxi/IMG_4653.jpg "So snowy and foggy!")](/assets/blog/ecuador-quito-and-cotopaxi/IMG_4653.jpg)

[![Outside Refugio Cotopaxi](/assets/blog/ecuador-quito-and-cotopaxi/IMG_4663.jpg "Outside Refugio Cotopaxi")](/assets/blog/ecuador-quito-and-cotopaxi/IMG_4663.jpg)

We had hot coca leaf tea at Refugio Cotopaxi and then started our trek downhill, which was somehow more foggy than the trek up. It was SOOO FOGGY that when I (Lauren) had to pee, and literally walked 50 meters into the fog and couldn’t see anyone so I just popped a squat. We drove partway down the mountain and then got onto mountain bikes provided by the tour company and rode down the gravel road. It was very bumpy, so much so that I could feel my arm flabs jiggle, but it was still a blast. Eventually we were out of the fog and the views were incredible!!! Our guide Franklin provided some cool facts about plants (yay!) we were seeing while we were taking pictures of the views. He spoke mostly in Spanish so luckily I know enough Spanish to understand! We ended the biking portion of the tour at Laguna De Limpiopungo, and hoped on the bus to go back to eat lunch.

[![Mountain Biking!](/assets/blog/ecuador-quito-and-cotopaxi/OI000001.jpg "Mountain Biking!")](/assets/blog/ecuador-quito-and-cotopaxi/OI000001.jpg)

I had such a headache from the altitude! Gerrod napped a bit and then we got served a 3-course meal! They took us back to Quito, and this time we got off at Plaza Foch and walked back to our hostel (Casa Urbana). Later, we met up with the surgeon from L.A. at the Q Restaurant - Plaza Foch for drinks and then ended our night!

Thursday consisted mostly of getting things booked again, including accommodation for our Galapagos trip next week. We went to Gulliver Travels to try to book a trip to the Ecuadorian Amazon Rainforest, but were told none of the tours fit into our remaining time in Ecuador. I was a little heartbroken, but the travel agent worked with us and we managed to find an amazing place in the Amazon Rainforest in Peru. He gave us several recommendations following our return from the Galapagos.

It has been a whirlwind of a week with lots of planning, but we met some amazing people and got to see some amazing things. Although I am bummed we are not going to go to the Ecuador rainforest, there is a lot left to do in Quito that we missed out on while trying to get the discounted Galapagos cruise, so I look forward to coming back here following our Galapagos adventure!

Love,

Lauren (and Gerrod)

Links to some of the things I mentioned:

- [https://www.casaurbanahostal.com/](https://www.casaurbanahostal.com/)
- [http://www.happygringo.com/](http://www.happygringo.com/)
- [https://gulliver.com.ec/](https://gulliver.com.ec/)
- [http://freewalkingtourecuador.com/](http://freewalkingtourecuador.com/)
]]></content:encoded>
            <author>bestseenonfoot@gmail.com (Lauren Schirtzinger)</author>
        </item>
    </channel>
</rss>